Bus-about South Africa 

Hostel to Hostel – Cheap & Safe

For the Young and Young –at-Heart

    Word of Mouth is an unusual name for a guesthouse, but not so in South Africa, where I also found Bump in the Night, Elephant on Castle and Down the Lane.  Called “Backpackers”, they provide inexpensive accommodation and services to travelers including TV, VCR, video library, E-mail facilities, and a welcome tea & coffee for weary traveler.

 Word of Mouth, in Pretoria, the Capital City, was my first stop after a long flight from my home in Pakistan. An airport shuttle from Jan Smuts Airport dropped me right at the gate.  I chose Pretoria after an extensive Internet search to find a safe area to start my travel in South Africa. 

 I had heard scary stories and was told that Cape Town was called “Rape Town”, Sun City, “Sin City,” and that a visit to Johannesburg was not complete without getting mugged.  All these apprehensions proved wrong, however, and I returned un-scratched after 30 days of travel.

It was July when I was there – winter in South Africa as the country lies below equator. Though days were sunny, the nights were bitterly chilly for my blood. I stayed around Pretoria a few days to get acclimatized and enjoyed long walks fine admiring Dutch architecture, museums and monuments.

 At that time of the year, the jacaranda trees were in bloom, immersing the city in glorious shades of purple and mauve. 

There were numerous malls and arcades to browse for souvenirs, roadside artisans sold colorful hand-spun rugs, fine bead and woodworks, and decorated hides and skins.    

After about four days, I sat down with the lodge manager to discuss my problems.  I had only $ 1,000 and a credit card and a wish to traverse South Africa from one end to another. I wanted to get a taste of everything the country had to offer: mountain biking, river rafting, para gliding and above all bungee jumping – not to forget game viewing and safari walking.

Hop-On / Off at Lodges and Hostels 

  A variety of transport was available, air, rail and road links, but for my restricted budget a bus network known as Baz Bus was best choice.

     Baz Bus picks up and drops off passengers at lodges and hostels.  Passengers simply buy one ticket to their final destination and can "hop-on, hop-off" wherever and as many times as they like with no time limit. I got a Pretoria-Cape Town Return Ticket for $ 230, would also allow me a stop in Swaziland, a land locked country surrounding by South Africa and Mozambique. 

Sondzela Backpackers, Swaziland

The next morning, dressed in layers of cotton & woollen clothes, I stood at the gate of the guesthouse waiting for Baz Bus to Swaziland.  It arrived at 7:15 am, a Mercedes Sprinter towing a trailer.  It had 22 seats and mostly white passengers ranging 18 to 35 years.  I am 57, but that was no problem. 

I was lucky to get the front seat. The entire route heading east to Swaziland was studded with fruit plantations, stunningly lush green sugar cane fields, high grassy plains and majestic mountains. We passed by Nelspruit City, the gateway to Kruger, the world famous Wildlife Park, home to all the “Big Five” - lions, elephants, leopards, buffaloes and rhinos. 

 

After about 8 hours of travel, we reached the border towns of Oshoek & Ngwenaya.  Swazi Official issued me a visa and by the 7pm- 12 hours of travel, we arrived at Royal Swazi Sun Hotel where a van from Sondzela Lodge was already waiting for me, as the Baz Bus driver had alerted them of my arrival.  All drivers had mobile phones. 

Sondzela, a quaint thatched lodge is located inside the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, and one can be on a self-directed walking safari the moment one gets out of the room.  This was highlight of my trip.

Zululand to Durban

Baz Bus took me south to Zululand and the picturesque village of KwaBonambi, which is situated 20 minutes from South Africa’s oldest game reserves, Hluhluwe and Umfolozi. 

I stayed at a hostel run a mother and daughter.  Here I had the best food in most hygienic conditions. The place was also well decorated. I was told that the daughter had a husband but he was kicked out as he was not matching with overall decor. The mother had reduced her own husband to safari guide, and the two women were firmly in command.

Nearby at a Zulu Culture Village, young girls performed the dance to attract a suitable match. The price of a bride, I heard, is eleven cows, and one cow can be bought for about $ 300. Unfortunately, I hadn’t the time to enjoy a blissful marriage.

My next hop-off point was Durban.  On the way, I passed through the St Lucia wetlands, a region known as a great eco-tourism.  The wetlands stretch 80 kilometers from Sodwanya Bay in north to Mapelane in the south and are surrounded by ocean beaches.

I liked Durban as there were many Muslims hailing from Pakistan, India and African countries. It is big, lively city, and I had an opportunity to see Indian Films at the local movie houses as well as visit museums, aquarium and the planetarium.

After a week in Durban, I moved on to Coffee Bay on what used to be called the Wild Coast of Transkei. Here high cliffs fall to a narrow bay skirted with golden beach and aquamarine serf.

Next was Cintsa, located about 35 kilometers northeast of the city of East London. Here, atop a hill, I found a beautiful hostel called Buccaneers Retreat.

As the time was running short, I moved on, briefly stopping at the city of Port Elizabeth and then to Knysna and finally to Cape Town. I thought I would stay a while in Cape Town and unwind, but it was cold and cloudy. There was no out-door tours and it looked as if everything had come to a stand still. I got panicky and planned my return without waiting for the sunshine- which came two days later.

I went cross country to Johannesburg where I had a conducted tour of Hillbrow, a once famous entertainment and bohemian district that has become notoriously unsafe in recent years. I saw massive hotels like Holiday Inn closed down and chain stores abandoned. Johannesburg seemed to me a dying city.

In 30 days I had only a glimpse of South Africa, and I would have loved to come again. But there are many other countries I have to see, and I feel age is creeping over me, hence, it is all the more urgent to go to un-seen places. Next stop, USA … by bus of course.

HRM  

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