Introduction: Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are small, colorful, gentle lizards originally from India, Afghanistan and Pakistan. They are hands down an excellent small pet.
What do they look like and how big will they get? Leopard Geckos come in a wide variety of colors, but generally have a yellow or orange base color with some degree of brown spotting. In the wild these colors are drab, however captive bred animals can be breathtakingly beautiful! Many dedicated breeders have line-bred Leopard Geckos to create unusual colors and patterns. These lizards start off as about 3 inches long as hatchlings. Babies hatch out with solid brown to purple bands across their backs and then go through an ontogenic color change. As they mature & with each shedding of the skin, the solid bands break up and disperse as small dots across the body. (this is in a normal color phase gecko). A healthy, established baby is okay to start off with, on the other hand juveniles to adults can be good choices since they are usually eating well and are less delicate and a bit less nervous. They grow quite fast and will eventually be from 55 to 90 grams and be about 8-10 inches long from nose to tail tip. Males are a bit longer, with broader heads and a stockier body than females.
How much do they cost? Prices for Leopard Geckos varies considerably. The unusual colors and pattern morphs can cost a couple hundred dollars - in fact a beautiful new color morph called a "Blizzard Lizard", a solid white animal, due to it's beauty and rarity can cost several hundred dollars.. However your average pretty gecko can be purchased for a reasonable amount from a breeder/hobbyist. Pet shops usually cost you quite a bit more, while reptile expos or shows can be a great place to purchase your gecko (buy from reliable breeders only ~ there are currently some problems with diseased animals being sold). There are many breeders on-line as well.
What do I look for when buying my Leopard Gecko? A healthy gecko has clear but sleepy looking eyes and smooth unbroken skin free of any sores, cuts, etc.. Make sure it has all it's toes (improper sheds and ill health can cause digit loss). The tail should be full and preferably original ~ they can regrow their tails, but the regenerated tail is never as pretty as the original and are often strange looking or oddly shaped. Avoid any gecko that looks especially thin, lethargic, non-reactive, or has a thin tail....this can be ill health, neglect or a sign of disease. Baby or very young geckos have narrow bodies and tails - versus adults which should have that round mid body and plump tail (this is where they store their fat). The geckos mouth should be clear of any cheesy looking matter (mouth rot) or mucus (respiratory infection). It should move well and be a bit wiggly - avoid lethargic animals that seem dis-interested or dull in appearance. The vent area should be clean and free of any crusted feces & not appear irritated or sore. Buy from a breeder or shop where the animals look well cared for (a good breeder can tell you how to care for your animal & be able to provide you information & pictures of their breeding stock). Check for external parasites such as mites and ticks...they definitely should NOT have them. Reading a good book such as "The Leopard Gecko Manual" before purchasing your gecko is an excellent idea. (see our recommended reading page) **Always quarrantine new geckos for at least 6 months before placing with or near any other Leopard Geckos & always wash hands after working with any new animals **
What will I need to take care of my Leopard Gecko? There are a couple of ways to successfully set your gecko up. A 10 gallon glass tank (for 1 gecko) or any larger size glass tank for groups with a screen fitted lid, or large sweater boxes with holes drilled in the sides and top are sufficient methods of keeping geckos. A warm end (1/3 to 1/2 of the enclosure) should be made by either under the tank heat (heat pad), heat tape, or by a heat lamp placed on one side (for use with glass tank only). Temps should be 84 to 88 in the enclosure or room they are kept in. Paper towels or newspaper are recommended for babies and young geckos (we use paper towels for all our geckos regardless of age) ~ sand consumption and impaction can occur when housing on fine sand. Paper towels help you monitor newly purchased animals for mites & proper, healthy fecal samples (a healthy geckos stool is like a round, oblong brown pellet...it should not be runny or bloody). A low bowl of fresh water should be always available. Geckos need a dark spot to hide and sleep (half logs, caves, cork bark, or any bowl turned upside down can be used as a hiding spot) They are nocturnal and should have 8-10 hours of darkness. Use red nocturnal basking lights...this will not disrupt their night time but still keep them warm & allow you some viewing. This will make your gecko feel safe and relaxed. Geckos are "private shedders" and you will seldom if ever see your gecko shed it's skin. Do not look for discarded skin ~ geckos eat their skin as they pull it off their bodies ~ this is natural and a good source of protein. They require a small covered box with damp peat moss (or similar substrate) at all times to climb into whenever they need to feel moist ~ this is imperative since dry, bad sheds can cause your gecko to lose toes, tail tips and cause skin diseases. Leopard Geckos are very neat, clean lizards and will defecate in the same spot at all times. Soiled areas can be scooped out or picked up & should be done daily. Geckos should be given a small, low dish of calcium supplement. There are many on the market such as Rep-Cal, Miner-All, Reptocal, all of which can be found at a pet store carrying reptile supplies or ordered on the internet. You will also need a good reptile vitamin such as Reptivite. Both these supplements are low cost and will last a long time.
What do I feed my Leopard Gecko? Baby geckos need a schedule of supplement/vitamin dusted crickets and mealworms. Prey offered should be small enough for your gecko to easily capture and swallow. Both mealworms and crickets are available in graduating sizes, as your gecko grows, larger items can be offered. Babies should have every item dusted for the first 3 to 4 months of life (a sandwich baggie with a bit of calcium supplement & vitamin powder can be used as a shake & coat bag - place a cricket or mealworm in the bag and gently shake till coated, then offer to gecko with a small pair of tongs or hemostats, or place in low dish to free feed). Geckos are usually voracious as youngsters and we usually offer as many items as they'll eat. When they are full, they will usually walk away and/or go in their hidebox to sleep. Youngsters need to feed one to two times every day until they have some weight and are about the size of our gecko at the top of the page (3 to 4 mths old). You can then occasionally skip a day of feeding. Once your gecko is this size an occasional (1 a week to two weeks) pinkie mouse can be offered. Some will eat them and some won't, they are a good source of protein and calcium. Larger mealies and crickets and eventually "superworms" can all be used...the occasional waxworm (a soft, fat white grub) is absolutely relished by the gecko, however these are high in fat and must only be doled out as a treat once in a while.
Conclusion: Leopard Geckos are quiet, gentle lizards that when handled gently, make an excellent, friendly pet. WARNING: NEVER GRAB YOUR GECKO BY IT'S TAIL THIS WILL CAUSE THE GECKO TO "DROP" IT'S TAIL! This is a defense against predators in the wild, the tail will re-grow but are often mis-shapen and never as beautiful as their original tail. When picking up your gecko, be gentle and move slow, talk quietly...geckos can hear well! Sit with your gecko in your lap, monitor where he is walking...geckos will walk off an edge & this can cause a fatal injury as they are quite delicate. Over time your gecko will get less nervous around you. Do not over-handle these lizards, all handling is stressful in their eyes. Be aware that they can run and jump and must be handled with close attention. It is helpful to house them in a low traffic area of your house where it is warm and is dark at night. An addtional note: these geckos are extremely long lived...make sure you are prepared to enjoy your friend for up to 30 years! You may even want to try breeding your gecko and/or keeping several in the future. Enjoy your gecko and you will have a fun, colorful gentle friend for many years to come! |
