sinaloanmilkcare

Introduction:

Welcome to the Sinaloan milksnake page! If you are considering a milksnake as a pet, then you may already know what beautiful animals they are. Sinaloans are part of a large family of colubrids known as milksnakes and kingsnakes. They are indigenous to the southwestern part of the United States and Mexico. These snakes are a favorite among hobbyists and breeders due to their striking colors and mild manners. They are widely bred and available, although not quite as inexpensive as a cornsnake.

What do they look like and how big will they get?

Sinaloan milks are an eye-catching red, with 12 to 13 triads (bands) of two black bars with white or cream to yellow in the middle. Their heads are predominantly black with some cream on the tip of their nose. Their eyes are shiny, dark black. Their latin name of "Lampropeltis" actually translates as "shiny skin" and it is! Their scales are very flat and they have a smooth feel and actually look a bit like patent leather! Individual size with these snakes varies quite a bit ~ some may be 42" to 49" long, while others are more in the range of 30" to 36". Their bodies are round and they are fast and agile and excellent constrictors.

How much do they cost?

Sinaloan Milksnakes are not one of the more costly of this family of snakes. Usually breeders sell hatchlings for $50 to $65. However if you choose to buy one in a pet store, chances are it will cost significantly more...maybe double! Many breeders and hobbyists work with Sinaloans so shop around and you should be able to find a healthy but decently priced snake.

What do I look for when buying a Milksnake?

Almost without exception, the Sinaloan you're looking at will be captive born, thereby eliminating a lot of disease/parasite related problems. The snake you are looking at should be alert, with clear eyes (unless begining a shed cycle, where the eyes turn a hazy blue color), they should have no cuts or missing scales, the belly should be shiny with flat laying scales, the vent (underneath where the tail begins to taper) should be absolutely clean and free of any crusty fecal matter and scales should be laying flat. Always ask to hold the snake (if the seller refuses to let you then don't buy it) , it should have good muscle tone (not be limp) and should appear alert and interested in what is happening. With a young milksnake it is important to know whether or not it is feeding well. These guys can be fussy eaters sometimes as babies, if possible ask to see the baby feed and ask for it's feeding records ~ a good sign would be if it has a small lump in the belly area from feeding recently. Baby snakes are sometimes offered very cheaply priced - listed as "poor feeders"...unless you have experience dealing with problem babies like this DO NOT purchase that baby, it takes alot of experience and patience to work with one of these and often ends in heartbreak when all that can be done still doesn't work and the little one doesn't make it. Some baby snakes just never quite do well and don't make it, this is a sad event that is natures course even in a captive environment. If the snake you choose looks good, you can ask if it is male or female. Most breeders will either have them already marked, (there is a numbering system used for this 1.0 means a male, 0.1 means a female 0.0.1 means unsexed individuals) or they will check the sex for you. We find both sexes equal in temperment and size.

What will I need to take care of my Milksnake?

Milksnakes and Kingsnakes should always be kept individually since they are ophidiophages (they hunt and eat other snakes as part of their diet in the wild) and can be housed in many ways - for one, a 10 or 20 gallon long tank is an ideal life long house, you can lay newspaper or astro-turf down as substrate (make sure you clean your cages as soon as possible after being soiled no matter what substrate you use), make a hidebox, place some climbing branches - they love to climb - a dish of fresh water and an under the tank heating pad under 1/3 rd of the tank set on low. Temperature ranges should be between 75 degrees on the cool side to 85 degrees on the warm side. This gives your snake the choice of where it wants to be. If you find that one milksnake is not enough, this often happens due to the large choice of different milksnakes and kingsnakes and their beauty... you can set your "collection" up in a rack system! We keep our milksnake in a Rubbermaid "Latchtopper" that is 6" high x 24" long x 16" wide. You must drill ventilation holes all around the upper sides of the box and on the top of the lid. These holes should be small enough that your milk cannot crawl through one (Believe me, they will try) but large enough to provide ventilation and fresh air. These boxes can be lined up side by side on shelving with with heat pads or heat tape on the back 1/3 of the box for a warm spot (when using any type of bottom heat, check that it is WARM NOT HOT to your touch) place a hand towel between the box and heating device if it is too warm. You can use newspaper as a substrate and 1/2 of a cereal box for a hide house to curl up and hide in. Our milksnake is thriving and happy this way! Don't forget a water bowl in the front (cool side) of the box.When your snake is in shed (the skin will appear dull & lackluster ~the eyes will begin to "fog over") it is best to provide them with a moist shed box to help facilitate the shedding process. An appropriate size plastic rubbermaid storage box will do fine. Cut a square entrance hole larger than the snakes girth in the box either on the side or the lid. You can either use damp Sphagnum Peat Moss, Vermiculite or damp paper towels inside the storage box. You will find the snake will spend a lot of time inside the shed box or even soaking in it's water bowl during the shed cycle. Rocks, sticks or other rough surfaces should be provide to give your snake something to rub against to begin the peeling off of the skin. Once completed, you will find the shed skin in your snakes enclosure. A good shed is in one piece and resembles a sock pulled inside-out. You should always check to make sure both eye spectacles were shed off as well as the tip of the tail. Any bits or pieces of skin left on your snake indicates too dry an environment and can be gently worked off with water or mineral oil ~ do not just leave them on as this can lead to various skin problems.

What do I feed my milksnake?

When you are dealing with this species of snake, your best bet is to buy an adult or a baby snake that is well started on feeding on mice as food. Some members of this family are very fussy eaters as babies, in the wild they often first feed on small lizards and so will sometimes be difficult to get started on pink mice. Breeders will sometimes feed lizards then wean them to lizard scented mice to eventually start them on regular unscented mice. This is a laborious process and requires access to many feeder lizards and mice and is best left to the experienced herper. However, many milksnake and kingsnake babies will voraciously feed right away on pink mice. Milksnakes are an alert snake and quite aggressive eaters, but they are generally NOT nipppy to people ~ just wiggly sometimes and they can be very quick, so pay attention when handling them! When feeding your milk, keep in mind that they do have a rather small head so prey should be perhaps just a bit smaller than the size of their mid -body area, if feeding smaller prey, two may be offered. Most Sinaloan Milksnakes are hearty eaters, starting off with pinkies (newborn mice) and gradually working up to small adult mice. You don't want to feed oversized items (this will result in regurgitation and injury to your snake). If your snake does regurgitate it's food it is recommended to wait 5 to 7 days before feeding again to give the snake time to get over the stress of regurgitation. You should always try to feed pre killed rodents at all times. We feed our milk once a week and suggest you do the same - powerfeeding (overfeeding your snake) can cause serious health risks. You can purchase frozen rodents in quantity to thaw, warm up and feed as needed. We thaw ours in hot (not boiling) tap water until warm to the touch. A live mouse can quickly turn and bite and seriously injure your milksnake.

Conclusion:

Sinaloan milksnakes are a gentle, zippy, funny little snake that is hardy and pretty easy to care for. The other varieties of milksnakes are numerous and attractive, but you won't be disappointed with a Sinaloan! These are some basic guidelines, but you should read as much as you can on a snake's care before you buy one. Buy a book or get one from the library it will only help you to give the proper care to your snake. Always wash your hands after handling your snakes and cleaning their cages to prevent the risk of contracting Salmonella!