whognosecare

Introduction:

These small snakes can only be described as "cute". If you want a small, easily handled and harmless snake then we would say these might be for you. Western hognose are indigenous to our western United States and have three slightly differing subspecies the Kennerlyi, Glodyi and Nasicus. These are mostly slight variations in color hues and size - in the wild these labels indicate the locality that the snake comes from.

What do they look like and how big do they get?

A hognose snake is named such because of it's funny turned up nose which is not really a nose but a modified scale used for digging up toads from the loose, sandy soil. They have round alert looking eyes with a brown pupil and appear to see very well. Their coloring is earth toned and camouflages them in the wild. They are somewhat variable in color, but are mostly a dark brown patterning on a lighter tannish backround, some even have a greenish cast to them. There are a few people breeding for an anerythristic hognose, this is a dark grey and lighter grey snake. A few lucky people are breeding for an albino variation which is an orange to soft yellow snake with darker orange patterns. Another noticeable feature is their tail, the tails are a lighter color than the rest of their bodies as though they were trying to look just like a rattle snake. Hognose snakes are described as being "rough scaled" in other words they will not feel like the smooth skin of a milksnake but rather have a raspy feel to them. The top of their heads have a distinct hognose marking. These snakes are considered small, a hatchling is a sturdy looking but short baby about 5 to 6 inches long, growing into an adult of about 1 1/2 to 2 feet. They have a stout appearance and no distinction betweem their head and body...kind of sausage shaped! Their underside is a glossy black with yellow to orange checkers.

How much do they cost?

Generally speaking western hogs are easily obtained from captive breeding stock. Many breeders online and at herp expos sell hatchlings. A normal colored baby should be between $40.00 and $75.00. The new color morphs of these snakes are hard to find and expensive. A small breeder/hobbyist or herp society members may offer babies for a slightly lower cost.

What do I look for when buying a Western Hognose?

Almost without exception, the Western Hognose you're looking at will be captive born, thereby eliminating a lot of disease/parasite related problems. The snake you are looking at should be alert, with clear eyes (unless begining a shed cycle, where the eyes turn a hazy blue color), they should have no cuts or missing scales, the belly should be shiny with flat laying scales, the vent (underneath where the tail begins to taper) should be absolutely clean and free of any crusty fecal matter and scales should be laying flat. Always ask to hold the snake (if the seller refuses to let you then don't buy it) , it should have good muscle tone (not be limp) and should appear alert and interested in what is happening. With a young hognose it is important to know whether or not it is feeding well. These guys are rarely fussy eaters as babies, if possible ask to see the baby feed and ask for it's feeding records ~ a good sign would be if it has a small lump in the belly area from feeding recently. Baby snakes are sometimes offered very cheaply priced - listed as "poor feeders"...unless you have experience dealing with problem babies like this DO NOT purchase that baby, it takes alot of experience and patience to work with one of these and often ends in heartbreak when all that can be done still doesn't work and the little one doesn't make it. Some baby snakes just never quite do well and don't make it, this is a sad event that is natures course even in a captive environment. If the snake you choose looks good, you can ask if it is male or female. Most breeders will either have them already marked, (there is a numbering system used for this 1.0 means a male, 0.1 means a female 0.0.1 means unsexed individuals) or they will check the sex for you. We find both sexes equal in temperment.

What will I need to take care of my Western Hognose?

These snakes require a small area, a ten gallon glass tank with a fitted screen is an excellent lifelong enclosure, as they do not get very big. These snakes require no special lighting but are very light oriented...let me explain, our hognose will actually "go to bed" in her hide box when her overhead flourescent light is turned off only to come back out and be active when turned back on. An under the tank heatpad set on low under 1/3 of the tank is sufficient heat alone. You can use newpaper or reptile carpeting or astro-turf to line the bottom. A hognose will find a way to dig under most anything including water bowls! You may choose to keep them on a sand substrate, if you do you cannot feed them in the tank due to the sand. Ingesting the sand while eating prey can cause serious injury or death - we don't use sand for this reason. Always provide fresh water at all times, we find ours like to dip in their water bowls. You may also provide some climbing limbs, because for a primarily terrestrial snake ours sure love to climb. You should also provide a hide box, this can be a sculpted rock replica or even a cereal box cut in half.When your snake is in shed (the skin will appear dull & lackluster ~the eyes will begin to "fog over") it is best to provide them with a moist shed box to help facilitate the shedding process. An appropriate size plastic rubbermaid storage box will do fine. Cut a square entrance hole larger than the snakes girth in the box either on the side or the lid. You can either use damp Sphagnum Peat Moss, Vermiculite or damp paper towels inside the storage box. You will find the snake will spend a lot of time inside the shed box or even soaking in it's water bowl during the shed cycle. Rocks, sticks or other rough surfaces should be provide to give your snake something to rub against to begin the peeling off of the skin. Once completed, you will find the shed skin in your snakes enclosure. A good shed is in one piece and resembles a sock pulled inside-out. You should always check to make sure both eye spectacles were shed off as well as the tip of the tail. Any bits or pieces of skin left on your snake indicates too dry an environment and can be gently worked off with water or mineral oil ~ do not just leave them on as this can lead to various skin problems.

What do I feed my Western Hognose?

Most hognose are hearty eaters, starting off with pinkies (newborn mice) and gradually working up to adult mice. Try to feed them the same size prey as the width of their mid body. You don't want to feed oversized items (this will result in regurgitation and injury to your snake). If your snake does regurgitate it's food it is recommended to wait 5 to 7 days before feeding again to give the snake time to get over the stress of regurgitation. You should always try to feed pre killed rodents at all times. We feed ours once a week and suggest you do the same - powerfeeding (overfeeding your snake) can cause serious health risks. You can purchase frozen rodents in quantity to thaw, warm up and feed as needed. We thaw ours in hot (not boiling) tap water until warm to the touch. A live mouse can quickly turn and bite and seriously injure your snake!

Conclusion:

Last but not least as a hognose owner you will be treated sometimes to the biggest bluff display you will ever see come from a small snake. Hognose relish in trying to scare the unsuspecting. If upset (in any way) they will emit a loud long puff of air - stand erect and spread a small neck hood...just like a cobra! As you reach to pick them up they will turn and jump like lightening only to "pretend" to get you. Once in your hand all the special effects disappear and they gently move along your hands like a large inch-worm, it is generally very cute and funny especially when you know it is just a dramatic scene, since they are not the mean or vicious snake they would like you to think they are. The Western Hognose is considered a rear fanged mildly venomous snake. The fangs are set deep in the back of the mouth and are used for popping toads when they inflate to prevent the snake from eating them. The venom is thought to be a digestive aid to break down the tissue of prey.