RABBITS
BREEDS
Pedigree rabbits are classified as normal fur breeds which
include Chinchillas, Californians and New Zealands; fancy breeds,
including English, Dutch, Angoras, Lops, Netherland Dwarfs and
Flemish Giants and the Rex and Satin breeds. The smaller rabbits
whether mongrel or pure-bred, are to be preferred as pets to the
larger breeds, which may be very difficult for a child to handle.
Rabbits such as the English, Dutch and Netherland Dwarfs have
proved to be suitable house hold pets
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ACQUIRING A RABBIT
Young rabbits - known as kits - Are born very immature and
helpless after a pregnancy of about thirty - one days. If there
is any undue disturbance of the nest the doe is liable to kill
its own young. During the third week of life they begin to leave
the nest of their own accord, but they are not ready to be taken
from the mother until fully weaned at about eight weeks. The
bucks and does must be kept apart after they mature sexually,
which is at nine months in small breeds and six months in large
breeds, to prevent recurring pregnancies and many unwanted
litters. The bucks normally need to be housed on their own to
prevent fighting although several does may live together
peaceably
FEEDING
By nature grazing animals, in captivity rabbits need a daily
mixture of crushed oats, flaked maize, mixed corn and bran,
either fed dry, or made into a crumbly mash with hot or cold milk
or water. Whole meal bread also makes a satisfactory base for a
mash in addition, a rabbit needs to graze during the day or have
another meal consisting of green and root vegetables, fruit and
suitable wild plants, such as dandelion, clover, sow thistle and
groundsel. It is essential for rabbits to have hay, which should
be of the best quality and offered in a hay net or rack to stop
it being trodden underfoot. Rabbits must be provided with clean
water in a drip feed bottle. The amount taken may vary according
to the amount of fresh green stuff eaten. Always support a
rabbits weight when lifting it up.
ACCOMMODATION
A good rabbit hutch should measure at least 150 x 60 x- 60 cm (
60 x 24 x 24 in ) and be sturdily constructed with two
compartments. It needs to stand off the ground at about table
height and be designed to make
cleaning easy. The floor will need some protection from urine and
a thick layer of newspaper covered by wood chippings, peatmoss
litter or cat litter will keep it dry. Inside the sleeping area
there will need to be lots of straw for bedding but even that
will not be sufficient in severe weather. Then the hutch needs to
be moved into the shelter of an out house or at least covered
over at night to make it frost proof. Wild rabbits are considered
hardy but they are free to burrow deep under an insulating layer
of earth. The smaller breeds of tame rabbits in particular may be
at risk in harsh winter weather.
EXERCISE
No matter how good the hutch it provides insufficient
accommodation for a rabbit. There also needs to be safe place in
which to exercise and if possible to graze. Ideally, part of the
garden should be made rabbit proof and the rabbits allowed free
run of a big enclosure. If a safe enclosure cannot be made, then
a portable ark, is recommended, as it will allow a little
exercise to be taken and give some scope for limited grazing.
GROOMING
All but angoras can groom themselves but some grooming is
recommended overgrown claws may need trimming and overgrown teeth
can sometimes be avoided by providing a gnawing block.
HANDLING
Support a rabbits weight when lifting it particularly one of the
larger breeds. If a rabbit is returned to its hutch hind first it
cannot kick out at its handler.
INOCULATION
Tame rabbits in rural areas may be at risk from an outbreak of
myxomatosis. Veterinary advice should be sought about possible
protection by inoculation.
Rabbits can share a big enclosure with other pet animals such as
guinea pigs and tortoises. To stop the rabbits escaping, the
fence should be 1 m (39 in.) in height