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MAINTAINING AVICULARIA IN CAPTIVITY: First thing to remember is that ALL Avicularia/arboreals can be maintained using the same basic materials and set up.
CONTAINERS: Should be at a height of 2 to 3 times the Avic occupant's full leg span measured from tip of LEG I to tip of LEG IV. They can also be maintained in shorter containers but, I feel that such may induce unnecessary stress in captive specimens. Taller containers can also be used but, this makes it more difficult for the specimen to locate both, prey and a water dish and takes up too much space in a typically crowded spider room. Also, the sight of many inverted 10 gallon vivaria stacked up your walls at home may induce unnecessary stress in your spouse/partner that may in turn induce MUCH unnecessary stress in your life making the future prospect of happiness together fleeting at best!
The best container to use for subadult/adult Avicularia species is the standard 5.5 gallon vivaria with a screened -lid in which, the screen has been removed and replaced with 1/4" to 1/2" hardware cloth or thin plexiglas that has had 1/8" to 1/4" holes drilled through it to provide adequate airflow. For the keeping of larger immatures (2" to 3.75") the best containers to use are either the 16oz. Solo clear deli cups with clear snap on lids or the containers commonly sold in craft stores throughout the US as "Beanie-Baby cases". 16oz Solo deli cups need to have 4-6 holes cut into the area 1" down from the upper rim. This is easily accomplished using a normal paper punch sold at office supply stores. You'll also need to add another 4 holes in the lid. This will provide adequate airflow for the specimen within. The "Beanie-Baby cases" are made of hard plastic, are 4" x 4" x 6" in dimension and have a slip on lid. the container and lid are both clear and no arboreal to date has been able to slip the tight fitting lid. Using a small tipped soldering gun, melt 8 holes into the lid and another 2 on each side of the container 1" down from its upper rim. DO NOT breath the fumes from the melting plastic as it may cause sickness. For spiderlings, the best containers are those usually provided by the dealers themselves: 20 to 40 dram clear vials with white-plastic snap on lids. Dealers usually use a four-tine fork to puncture the lid creating airflow but, it is advisable to repuncture the existing holes to open them up more to provide better airflow into the vials. Anyone that plans on acquiring spiderlings should keep a supply of both, 20 and 40 dram clear vials. As the spiderlings grow, they can be switched to the larger vials before their final transfer at 2" to the larger containers listed above.
SUBSTRATE: I've used them all and have found ALL to possess advantages and disadvantages. My favorite to use is a mix of, 70% premium quality top soil with 30% sphagnum/peat moss mix added for additional water retention. I prefer using rich-black top soil as it aids in finding prey remains/boluses in the vivarium. This mix also retains water well thereby assisting in maintaining MODERATE humidity levels in the container. Where the idea of the "necessary high-humidity" to maintain arboreals came from is a mystery to me as many specimens that are maintained in those "high-humidity" set ups hide in their retreats/shelters all the time and begin to lose their normal state of activity.Some even perish. Some humidity is paramount in the reduction of stress and to provide a "livable" environment but, humidity levels above 75% are unnecessary and only cause a plethora of problems such as mold, mites, phorids, fungi, and possibly, a very unhappy occupant. Adequate airflow/ventilation coupled with humidity levels of 70% to 75% creates (I believe) the perfect arboreal environment. Moderately mist the container 1x per week (2x per week for spiderling up to the 2" size) and provide a water bowl always filled with distilled water, and your arboreals will thank you one day with great numbers of cute, "fuzzy", bouncing spiderlings. Keep the high humidities for the orchids please!
INNER DECORATIONS: I generally rely on cork bark for retreat/shelter usage for all my arboreals but, I also like the bark from white birch. Both are lightweight, resist the invasion of molds, fungi, pixies, nixies, and sprites! Both look good in a vivarium and the white birch is awesome when placed in Heteroscodra maculata set ups. I also prefer the white birch in the containers of my spiderling as it can be removed from fallen branches easily and it retains the tubular shape. Make sure to inspect it well for any undesirable denizens! I also "hot glue" several pieces of artificial plants around my arboreal's retreats as it may/may not provide an added degree of security for them and it also adds to the vivariums charm!
Add a medium to large water dish (I use the cut-off bottom 3" of a 2 liter pop bottle as it is clear and virtually disappears in the substrate creating a more natural appearing water source) kept filled with distilled water.Add a small piece of tree branch from the substrate to the water dish to allow crickets a way to get out of the water dish as these guys will never win a swimming metal!
TEMPERATURE/OTHERS: I maintain ALL my arboreals in the temperature range of 74 f to 80 f in the day and may the temperatures drop down to the upper 60's at night. Spiderlings up to the 2" size are kept at 5 f above the above listed temperatures.
DIET: All of my larger (above the 3" size) are fed crickets (Acheta domestica/Gryllus species) 2x per week. Three crickets per feeding. Spiderlings and immatures under 3" are fed 2 crickets 3x per week. I always prefer to use "over-sized" prey for all my spiderlings/immatures. For my smaller spiderlings in the range of 1/4" to 3/4", I will usually remove the head from a large cricket and using forceps, place the dead cricket near them. A form of artificial maternal feeding to allow better growth rates. When my specimens get to the 2" size, I then give each one 1 small to medium sized anole (Anolis carolinensis) 1x per month to vary their diets. Never use amphibians! ALL amphibians carry high parasite loads. You can also try "pre-killed pinkie" mice.
There it is! Simple but providing an effective system to house ALL arboreals except the "Pokes" as these massive arboreals will need larger vivaria at their adult stage. For my "Pokes" I use the same system as above but, the vivaria are 10 gallon leader tanks.
As a last word: stop spending so much time worrying about how "delicate" these amazing creatures are. I know of NO arboreal that is not hardy and have never had one die in captivity. Create your set up, modify it as you wish, introduce your specimen, allow it to acclimate for 3 days before feeding and sit back and observe your new specimen. Enjoy it. Remember, if it becomes all worry and work, its a job not an enjoyment!
Best Wishes,
"Luc"
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Tarantula Terrain: housing and habitat
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