These mix-and-match wardrobes are aimed at younger children, say in the 3-7
range. They are intended to teach them to maximize their wardrobes by buying
coordinated separates.
I don't use any particular pattern (that was one question). I make them for
any kind of doll who comes my way, using any patterns that fit them. I *have*
made so many for CPK's that I almost have a system for those, and lately I
have been doing them for the FP My Friend dolls. You could equally well do
them for an AGOT, but you would want to make them a little more sophisticated
for an older child, I think.
I use up remnants on these--I never, never, never go out and specifically buy
fabric to make a set. I rummage through the stash.
Make as many of the items reversible as possible--you get a lot more bang for
your buck, in the sense of producing X amount of versatile garment changes in
Y amount of sewing time. I try to include always a reversible vest or bolero
and a reversible cloth hat. I often do a reversible dirndl skirt with an
elasticized waist.
I usually use three or four fabrics. Two prints and a solid, or two prints
and two solids. The 1/16" gingham checks are so small that from a distance
they almost look like a solid, and effectively, from a design standpoint, you
can use them to replace a solid. The 1/8" gingham checks and larger count as
prints for me.
Start with the print(s). It's easier to find a solid to coordinate with a
print than it is to find a print to coordinate with a solid. I call the
prints my "transition" fabrics or "bridge" fabrics. One of my basic rules is:
DO NOT TRIM THE BRIDGE FABRICS. That is, say you have a print in pink, tan,
and dark green. If you leave it alone, it will coordinate with any of the
three solids. If you trim it with ONE of those colors, it won't look quite
right with the other two possible solids. Make your print items completely
tailored. Put your trims (if any) on the solids.
If you are doing an elaborate enough set, you can show how items can move from
one coordinated "subset" to another. For example, I was using up a 1/4" check
in royal blue, rust, gold, teal, and purple. The tailored items (blouse,
skirt, and jumper in this case) can move from one subset, which is focused on
gold, to another subset, which is focused on teal. Similarly, the tailored
items in the pink/tan/dark green print can move from a subset focused on pink
to a subset focused on khaki.
A plain white blouse is invaluable in almost any mix-and-match set.
Little accessories do a lot for these outfits--tote bags, bandannas, etc.
I don't try to coordinate the nightgowns and/or pajamas with the rest of the
wardrobe--they wouldn't be coordinated in the real world and there would be no
point to it. That lets you use remnants for those items that don't "go with"
any other piece of fabric in your stash.
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