From: charlton@ihug.co.nz (Janet Charlton)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 23:26:03 GMT
Subject: FAQ: Patterns
Hi Everyone,
For those of you who are either new or have forgotten, a group of us
are working on an FAQ for arachne. In addition to Frequently Asked
Questions we intend to include items of interest retrieved from the
archives. We are moving rather slowly because some of the sections
e.g. bobbin lace, are rather long and need a lot of work to distill
all the various hints into something readable.
Each section will be retrievable as a file like the archives
(arachives) and in addition they will be available on a home page.
I include the first draft of the pattern section.
The works included are original and permission of the authors has been
obtained.
The line length is 70 characters, most of the patterns were sent out
using a longer line, if the pattern reads a bit strangely it's
probably my fault.
I would be interested to know if many people use a shorter line
length. It would help the committee make the FAQ read better.
Janet Charlton
INDEX
Tatting Patterns
Angel Cris Banyard
Butterfly Rosemarie Peel
Christmas Wreath Suzann, Jana, Wilda
Cross Morris Scott
Earrings Morris Scott
Earrings(clover) Morris Scott
Grapes Adrienne Quinlan
Heart Cris Banyard
Bill's Heart Elizabeth (Oneofus)
Violet Elizabeth (Oneofus)
Knitting Patterns
Granny's Sock pattern David Collyer
(updated December, 1999)
Bobbin Lace Patterns
Bridal Garter Joan Posener
*********************************************
TATTING PATTERNS
TATTED ANGEL PATTERN
Cris Banyard
The Angel has been put into kit form and is only available from
Threads.
The LaceLady
This is an adaptation of an old angel pattern:
Using size 20 Cebelia or Cordonnet, White
Small amount of Metallic Gold for Halo
BODY: Cut a very sturdy cardboard template 5 1/2" long and about 3
inches wide.Wrap 150 times around the card longways. Slide an 8"
length of thread under the top of the wrapped thread and tie tightly
to form a loop to hand the finished angel.
Form Head and body: Tie around the Angel's neck with a few turns of
an 8"piece of thread 1" down from the top. Cut the loop of threads
open at the bottom .
Pull away 40 threads from each side of Angel body, wrap each section
at top of arm with 7" of thread,as done for head. Cut 1 to 1 1'2 "
from bottom of thread to form arms. If desired tie a 5 "
length of thread around "wrists" to from hands.
HALO: Using gold metallic if desired, make a Large ring of 2 ds - p
as large as you like but at least 22 picots.
HAIR:With shuttle thread in ring position make 5 ds , close ring, 8
times. With each new ring right up next to the previous ring.
WINGS: Each wing as 3 individual pieces.
Make 2: Ring: 2 ds - p - 2 ds - p - 2ds - p - 2ds, CR, RW
Chain: 2 ds - p - 2 ds RW
Ring: 2 ds - J - 2 ds - p - 2 ds - p - 2 ds, CR, RW]
Chain: 2 ds - p - 2 ds RW
Ring: 2 ds - j - 3 ds - p - 3 ds - p - 3 ds CR RW
Chain: 2 ds - p - 2 ds
Cris says:
I do now have a Business that is Tatting Kits.
They are called LaceLady Designs and are available through
Threads here in Nebraska, Beggar's Lace and Snowgoose in Denver.
The line of kits: Usually they include 2 or 3 patterns for ornaments
using brass or silver medallions as the center. Also there is one
with 2 hats one is suitable for a Barbie the other in the kit is
rather larger. There is a Snowman kit, a Kit with a heart that
includes instructions and materials for mounting it on a purchased
box.
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
LaceLady
Cristina Banyard
Lincoln, Nebraska
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
***********************************************
TATTED BUTTERFLY
Rosemarie Peel
Part one was an outline sketch of what the butterfly would look like,
described in words, giving the instructions for drawing a line-drawing
as a guide to the pattern . She also lists the materials needed in
part one. Part two is the actual pattern for the tatting.
Jana has a photo and another copy of the pattern on her homepage
http://www.lookup.com/Homepages/72681/index.html
A butterfly brooch, wired to make it 3D
From Rosemarie Peel to all tatters on the internet
1st installment
Materials
One ball of thread (I tried out some No.40 tatting thread from Hungary
which I got from Beggars Lace and my finished butterfly was about 4cm
long).
One shuttle fully wound from the thread and not cut.
1 metre of soft thin wire which will be doubled.
A tiny safety pin about 2cm long matching the colour of the wire ie
silver colour or gold colour.
A fine crochet hook.
To give you a mental picture of what you will be doing get a pencil
and paper and make a rough sketch of the butterfly (which will not be
to scale) from the following instructions:-
An upright line 5cm in length (this represents the body)
Two circles 2cm in diameter either side of the lower half of the line
(these represent the two small lower wings).
Two circles 3cm in diameter either side of the upper half of the line
(these represent the two upper wings)
Label your circles - lower left wing, upper left wing, upper right
wing, lower right wing.
The butterfly is worked all in one from beginning to end but in four
phases.
In another colour pencil map it out over your sketch.
Phase 1 - the skeleton - a ring for the lower left wing, a chain for
the lefthand side of the body, three rings (a trefoil) for the upper
left wing, chain ring chain for the shoulders and head, three rings (a
trefoil) for the upper right wing, a chain for the right hand side of
the body and a ring for the lower right wing. Continue working
clockwise round the butterfly without cutting.
Phase 2 - With just shuttle thread the wire is added all round the
butterfly with reverse tatting and lock joins.
Phase 3 - the ball thread is used again with the shuttle thread to add
a decorative chain edging all round.
Phase 4 - add safety pin and fasten off.
**************************
Rosemarie Peel's wired butterfly brooch (Second instalment)
Abbreviations as in all tatting pattern books from LACET PUBLICATIONS
The Skeleton:
LOWER LEFT WING: Ring A 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close,
RW,
LEFT BODY: Chain 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2, RW,
UPPER LEFT WING: Ring B 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 6 close,
Ring C 6 + (to last picot of Ring B) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 6
close,
Ring D 6 + (to last picot of Ring C) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2
close, RW,
SHOULDERS AND HEAD: Chain 2 + (to last picot of left body) 2, RW,
Ring E 8 - - 8 close, RW, Chain 2 - 2, RW,
UPPER RIGHT WING: Ring F 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 6 close,
Ring G 6 + (to last picot of Ring F) 2 - 2 - 2- 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 6
close,
Ring H 6 + (to last picot of Ring G) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2
close, RW,
RIGHT BODY: Make the joins to the picot on the right shoulder then
each picot down the left body leaving the bottom one free.
Ch 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 - 2, RW,
LOWER RIGHT WING: Ring I 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close,
RW,
THE BASE: Chain 2 + (to last picot of right body) 2, RW,
Add the wire:
Tie ball and shuttle threads in a single knot to swop them over. Lock
join the shuttle thread to the first picot of left body. Do not cut
away the ball thread but put it aside for the moment. Fold the wire
in half and hang it on the picot just used. Have the two strands of
wire together, work over them both in reverse tatting (as for the
second half of a split ring). Keep the reverse double stitches pulled
up on the wire and shape it as you go along. Lock Join to each free
picot on the adjoining ring unless otherwise stated. Start with Ring
A and continue in a clockwise direction all round the butterfly.
3, LJ, 3, LJ, 3, LJ, 4, LJ, 4, LJ, 4, LJ, 4 , LJ, 12,
Leave the last two picots of Ring A. With the covered wire now shaped
round the lower left wing bend the bare wire in a `V' ready to go
round the upper wing. At the point of the `V' LJ over the ds in the
middle of the left body.
4, miss first three picots of Ring B, LJ, 4, LJ, 4, LJ, 8, miss the
next picot on Ring B and the next two picots on Ring C, LJ, 4, LJ, 4,
LJ, 8, miss the next two picots on Ring C and the next picot on Ring
D, LJ, 4, LJ, 4, LJ, 3, LJ, 3, LJ, 3, LJ, 3, LJ, 3.
With the covered wire now shaped round the upper left wing bend the
bare wire to go across the shoulders and up over the upper right wing.
(For now keep the head folded down on the side facing you, this is the
underside of the butterfly). LJ over the first ds of the left
shoulder, 6, LJ over the last ds of the right shoulder.
For the right half of the butterfly repeat the left half in reverse.
Finish with an extra 3ds* to reach the ball thread. Cut the bare wire
to 2cm long and fold it up the underside of the body. Tie ball and
shuttle thread in a single knot to swop them over.
Decorative chain edging:
Here keep LJs quite loose so the chains will butt onto the edge of the
covered wire.
With ball and shuttle thread: Chain 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2, pull it up
to make it curve, LJ over just the covered wire between the second and
third picot of Ring A. Leaving a similar gap make three more of these
chains followed by LJs round the lower wing. Chain 4, LJ over the
covered wire at the point of the `V'. Make seven chains round the
upper wing LJed a similar width apart finishing before the two last
picots of Ring D. Chain 4, LJ to the left corner of the shoulder,
Ch 4, LJ to the right hand corner of the shoulder. Complete the right
side to match the left side.
Finally LJ over the last 3ds at * and fasten off while attaching a
brooch or safety pin to the underside of the body incorporating the
end of bare wire.
Shape the butterfly, the upper wings can overlap the lower wings. Cut
the large picot on the head to form the antennae.
The end.
**************************************************
CHRISTMAS WREATH
Christmas Wreaths
Wilda . Moore
The wreaths were made using a simple medallion pattern.
I used the same one that I have been making snow flakes out of.
I had to modify it slightly because the yarn was so much bigger than
the thread I usually use, but I made 2 using the old pattern.
The basic medallion was out of Barbara Foster's Needle Tatting book
and is just one round of a ring and chain pattern. After making a
bunch of the little white ones, I got bored with it and decided to do
something different. I went to Walmart and got some green knitting
yarn, I picked by color so I think it is just a cheap acrylic yarn.
Then I searched through all the red beads till I found some
that looked like they would slide onto the thread.
I slid four onto the thread and started tatting. I made the
first ring and chain and started on the second ring. Right before
the join, I slid the bead into position and locked it in tight with
the join. The wreath does not look anything like the medallion
even though they are from the same pattern.
I won't publish the pattern since it is copywrited and I don't want
any trouble with the copywrite police who lurk here and only seem to
write to scold us. ;-)
I hope that is enough information. I did it with needle tatting but
if you had a big shuttle, I am sure you could do it with shuttle
tatting just slide the beads on the shuttle thread before you start.
I did not even think about tatting with beads till someone here
(Suzann?) mentioned they were doing it. But beads look real pretty on
the work,and were easier to work with than I thought. Just remember
to make sure all the beads stay on the same side of the piece.
**********************
Jana Nicol
For those of you who use shuttles to tat, there is a good pattern in
"Tatting for Today" by DMC on page 14, motif #17. If you leave out Rnd
2, you will end up with a perfect wreath pattern. Also, you can attach
beads anywhere.
**********************
Suzann Welker
You can make a tatted wreath out of almost any tatted edging. Just do
enough so it will lay flat. Usually an odd number of repeats looks
best. Add beads to the chains. Use red for rings and green for chains.
Or what ever you like. Make picots extra loopy and that's it.
*******************************************
CROSS
Morris Scott
Place 4 beads on shuttle thread and bury on shuttle with 3 or 4 turns.
Leaving about 10 inches of thread, R 20 ds, close.
Attach a second shuttle to the end of the 10 inch length.
Make a split ring of 12 ds,(change shuttles) 12 (reverse)ds, close.
Remove second shuttle,bring one bead from shuttle to this ring (bury
others), with needle or hookpull the loose end through the bead and
hide it inside the first 3 or 4 stitches of the next ring. (I usually
cut it to a short length before I hide it and cut off the excess
before I make the next stitch.) Make 3 more (total of 4) 24 ds rings
with a beads betweens and hide the end as in the earrings pattern.
Hang the finished piece from the ring opposite the starting ring.
This pattern has been popular at craft shows. It is made with #50 DMC
Cordonet Special and 2 1/2 mm gold plated pearls or white pearls.
Larger pearls seem to detract a little from the appearance of the
cross IMHO.
*****************************************************
EARRINGS
Morris Scott
Materials: DMC cordonet special #50, white.
10 beads, 2.5 or 3.0 mm round.
(I use gold or white pearls.)
Tools: 1 shuttle.
1 needle. (I use a #8 or #9 crewel.)
Description: This pattern makes a flower with 5 petals
of equal size around a center circle of 5 beads.
It is suspended with jump rings beneath a
ringed earpost.
One of the petals is used for hanging.
General: The tatting must be firm and uniform.
` There are no picots to hide uneven tatting.
Both ends are hidden, the starting
end is hidden in the first 3 stitches,
the finishing end is hidden in the beads,
stiffening and shaping the finished product
PATTERN: (String 5 beads on the shuttle thread and wind
into the shuttle with 2 or 3 turns, leaving
enough thread to tat with. Do not forget to bury
the end in the first 3 stitches.)
*Ring 24 ds close. Take one bead from shuttle and
slide into place snugly against the ring. Wind the remaining beads
into the shuttle as before.* Repeat between *'s until there are 5
rings and 5 beads. Cut thread leaving an end of about 10
inches. Thread the needle with this end. Pass the needle
through all the beads in order starting with the first. Draw up
to make a circle. Working from the back side, with the needle,
make a half-hitch in the throat of the first ring. Pass the
thread through the first bead, and repeat around until there is
a half-hitch in each ring. Cut the thread close to the last
bead. (END)
**************************************************************
EARRINGS (Cloverleaf)
Morris Scott
DESCRIPTION: Two cloverleaf shapes attached with beads.
MATERIALS: Thread of your choice, any color,
size 30 or smaller suggested.
16 beads, 2 1/2 or 3 mm suggested. Earring findings.
TOOLS: One shuttle, one crochet hook size 14 (must go thru hole in
beads),one needle size 8 or 9 with a long narrow eye.
ds= double stitch.
R= ring.
P= a picot slightly longer than the diameter of the beads being used.
AWB= attach with a bead. Place bead on crochet hook. Pick up picot
with hook and slide a bead into position on the picot, keeping the
hook in the picot, attach in the normal manner. (Two rings attached
with a bead in place between them.)
Piece #1(make two):(Hide end in first 3 stitches) R 4ds, P, 8ds, P,
4ds, P, 4ds, close. R 4ds, AWB, 4ds, P, 8ds, P, 4ds, close. R 4ds,
AWB, 12ds, AWB(to first picot of first ring), 4ds, close. Cut,
leaving about 10 inches, thread into needle. Take end to back side of
work. *Tie into the throat of the first ring with a simple knot.
With the needle, working through the top of the stitches, take the
thread to the last bead placed, through this bead, then through the
top of a stitch, around the picot (which is thru the bead)twice,
leaving the second turn loose, put needle and thread through this
loop and the bead, tighten, cut the thread close to the bead.* (I bet
that sucker can't get away.)
Piece #2(make two): (Hide end as before) R 4ds, P, 8ds, AWB (to picot
on first piece)(make certain that the right side is facing you), 4ds,
P, 4ds, close. R 4ds, AWB, 4ds, AWB(to other picot on first piece.
If you had to twist the first piece to make this attachment, you used
the wrong one first.), 8ds, P, 4ds, close. R 4ds, AWB, 12ds,
AWB(first picot, first ring), 4ds, close. Cut and hide end, following
the directions between the *'s.
Mount on posts, ear wires or whatever, using one of the 12ds spaces.
****************************************************
TATTED GRAPES
Adrienne Quinlan
I have a book by Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere dated 1862 ( I think
that clears me on
copywrite). It is called the Tatting Book and is the 5th edition and
was originally sold at 1 Shilling (5p uk).
It contains a paternal for a bunch of grapes which are then used to
decorate an Applique waistcoat. She uses Shaded Violet and Green
silk in short shades for the grapes and their leaves and adds Gold
twist to the green silk for the main joining stems between the bunches
of grapes. She says that 106 bunches of grapes will be needed to
Applique the Waistcoat.
She uses a netting needle and sewing needle for the bunches of grapes
and a crochet hook when using the gold thread.
I have adapted the pattern to our modern methods using a shuttle and
hope that it may be of use to some other tatters on the list. I could
easily be used to decorate a tie for the man in your life or for a
book mark.
Well here goes.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BUNCH OF GRAPES.
C = Chain
CR = Close Ring
G = Grape
P = Picot
R = Ring
RW = Reverse Work
S = Slip Stitch
3 = 3 double stitches
4s = 4 single stitches ( that for me is the second part of the
double when the shuttle goes over the thread first)
- - - = picot
+ = joining to a picot
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Stem ( Variegated green thread) leaving 2 foot of thread
R 5 CR
C 9
Leaf -leave 1/8 inch of thread then make 3 rings (5-1-1-5 CR)
Now comes the fun part
Work 4s back along the 1/8 inch of thread you left (as you work the
stitch make sure that the loop is to the left of the main stem before
you throw it onto the other thread)the 1/8 inch of thread will
gradually shorten and you will end up back at the main stem (if you
have left more or less thread you may need to adjust the
number of single stitches you use).
C4
Work second leaf as first
C9
Fasten off stem (You may have your own method but I have been tying
the ends together and leaving them for sewing in later).
This gives you a main stem of 22 stitches with 2 sets of leaves of 3
lobes each off it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Bunch of Grapes - using variegated violet thread
1 2
5 4 3
7 6
8
This shows the position of the bunches of grapes with 1 & 2 being
attached to the stem.
Some grapes may require slip sticking at the base to make a closed
grape others may hold closed and you will be able to slip stitch to
the next starting position ( I will leave this to your discretion).
However make sure that all the slipped threads are on the same side of
the work - they will be hidden when you attach the grape to whatever
ground you are using.
G1 3-3-3 CR
G2 3 + (to p2 of G1) 3-3 CR RW
S to p of G2
G3 7-3 CR
S to p between G1 & 2
G4 3 + (to p of G3) 3-3 CR
S to p of G1
G5 3 + (to p of G4) 7 CR RW
S to p between G4 & 5
G6 7-3 CR
S to p between G3 & 4
G7 3 + (to p of G6) 7 CR RW
S to p between G6 & 7
G8 11
Leave thread for Sewing in.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
3 methods for working the Main stem
Method 1
Mile Riego works the main stems of the plant in crochet as follows
Working either 40 (or as many chains as seem appropriate to your
project )between bunches of grapes working a stitch first with the
green thread and them with the gold,the bunches of grapes are attached
by putting the crochet hook through the small ring at the end of the
stem on the bunch of grapes and making a stitch with the green thread.
Tendrils are worked when required in the gold alone by working 43
chain turn miss one and work back to the main stem with 42 single.
Method 2
To tat the main stems work as many tatting stitches as you require for
the project in the green thread and join onto the small rings on the
bunch stem.
When a tendril is required (use bridging or split chains) pull out
about 2 inches of thread and work back towards the main stem using the
single stitch technique we used on the leaf stems.
Method 3
Using a ball of variegated green and a ball of variegated brown
thread.
Load a small amount of thread onto your shuttle in the colour you
want to make the tendrils.
Leave the ball attached and knot in another ball in a contrasting
colour ( I tried using gold thread but found the technique worked best
if the 2 threads were of equal weight).
Work one stitch with the 1st colour and then one with the 2nd (this
forms a small piece of tape with a colour on each side) make as many
stitches as required in this way and join onto the small rings on the
bunch stem when using the green thread
When a tendril is required pull out about 2 inches of thread from the
shuttle and work back towards the main stem using the single stitch
technique we used on the leaf stems.
Method 3 is called Pearl Tatting or double sided chains. And can be
done with as many ball threads as you can manage. The loops will be
bigger if more double stitches are made before you turn the chain over
and go to the next thread. To save on tangles you can put the extra
chain thread on a shuttle.
************************************************************
CRIS' TATTED HEART PATTERN
Cris Banyard
Hi guys. I am having a problem with a pattern. I am trying to design
a heart using split ring.
I have done the center as 3 individual motifs:
Ring 1: 6 ds - p - 6ds - p - 6 ds - p - 6ds CL
Ring 2: 6 ds - j - 6ds - p - 6 ds - p - 6ds CL
Ring 3: 6 ds - j - 6ds - p - 6 ds - p - 6ds CL
Ring 4: 6 ds - j - 6ds - p - 6 ds - j - 6ds CL
OK the next motif is the same but attached to the first as you work
it.
The third motif is added to make a heart shape:
0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0
0 0
0
OK, now I want to put split rings around it. I did a center ring 6 J
6 then started split rings around by skipping the first picot of the
motif then connecting to the next to the bottom point. Then I jointed
the shuttle thread to the bottom picot. Next I used the outer shuttle
to make a rings of 6 - p - 6 - p - 6 - p - 6. then back to the formula
of skip, join. Up back to the top is where I have my problem. I just
can't seem to get the join up right. That extra ring ( the very first
one) is driving me nuts. Just don't like the look.
I did use 2 colors, The inside shuttle was the same as the motifs the
top most was a contrasting color. I will be awaiting help.
********************
ADDITION TO CRIS' PATTERN
BILL'S HEART
Elizabeth (Oneofus)
Chris, and anyone else who is interested
Your heart pattern was a real challenge - I think I finally came up
with something passable. The center is made of 3 quatrefoils done with
split rings.
First quatrefoil:
Shuttle one: R 4-8-8-4
R 4+8-8-4
R 4+8-8-4 + = join to picot
(4th ring is split) sh 1 R 4+8 - = picot
sh 2 R 4+8
Second quatrefoil: The rings are worked in this
order :
(5th ring is split) sh 2 8-4
sh 1 8-4 01 06
Shuttle one: R 4+8-8-4 02 04 05 07
R 4+8-8-4 03 10 08
(8th ring is split) sh 1 R 4+8 11 09
sh 2 R 4+8 12
Third quatrefoil:
(9th ring is split) sh 1 R 4+8
sh 2 R 4-8
Shuttle one: R 4+8+8-4
R 4+8+8-4
(12th ring is split) sh 1 R 4+8
sh 2 R 4+8
The two threads emerge from the point of the heart, and the edging
proceed from there. There are two kinds of edge rings, all of them
split. The large ring, LR is sh. 1 = 4+4 (the join is to the picot
joint between two center rings)
sh. 2 = 2-2-2-2
The small ring, SR is sh. 1 = 2+2 (the join is made by putting
a crochet hook between two ds sh. 2 = 2-2 on the nearest center ring
and pulling a loop through)
Ring 1, at the point of the heart is a hybrid:
sh. 1 = 2-2-2-2-2
sh. 2 = 2ds
Ring 2 SR
Ring 3 LR
Ring 4, 5 SR
Ring 6 LR
Ring 7,8,9 SR
Ring 10 LR
Ring 11,12,13 SR
Ring 14 LR
Ring 15 modified SR =
sh. 1 2+2+2
sh. 2 2ds
This completes half the edge. Do the other half to correspond.
*****************************************************
VIOLETS
Elizabeth (Oneofus)
I am including a pattern I worked up for tatting with a variegated
purple perle cotton that I bought in a drug store in a small town in
North Dakota,where they use it for quilting. I had never heard of
such a thing, but my mother-in-law has done it all her life. It is
the only drugstore I know of that sells perle cotton ( the thing I was
looking for was knitting needles - no can do).
This pattern is for a bunch of violets with stems and leaves, and uses
the variegated purple on one shuttle and green on the other. I'll
just give directions for the basic flower, you can make as many as you
want, and join them ad lib. What I would really like is some feedback
on how intelligible my directions are.
Tie the green and purple threads together, and starting with the
purple shuttle:
R 4-8-8-4
R 4+8-8-4
R 4+6-6-4
R 4+4-4-4
R 4+6-6+4
To bring the center of the 5 petals together, take a stitch as you
would to join a picot across the center and draw the stitch up tight.
Switch to the green shuttle:
Ch as many as you like to make the stem. You can attach the stem to
any of the picots on the petals to keep it neat and flat.
To make the leaf:
with the green shuttle:
Ch 10
proceeding in the same direction, turn your work so the next ds ride
on the opposite side of the running thread.
Ch 5
Using the green shuttle,
R 2-2 close tightly. this makes the point of the leaf
Ch 5
Ch 10 on the opposite side of the running thread.
Pull up the chain quite tightly, the aim is to have a pair of
reversing curves to make an heart shaped leaf. Attach the free end of
the chain to the beginning of the chain, or to any point on the
flower. I ran both threads behind the work and made about 6 flowers,
attached by their stems and picots, and worked the leaves around the
outside of the bunch.
*************************************************
KNITTING PATTERNS
GRANNY'S SOCK PATTERN
Dear Friends,
Since I have just completed knitting another pair of granny's socks,
after some years, I have gone over the pattern which I submitted to
Arachne some 5 years ago, and made a couple of amendments.
So here it is again for those of you who are interested in these
fabulous socks.
Love
David Downunder in Ballarat - where it actually rained for about half an
hour today - I'd almost forgotten what rain looked like!
GRANNY'S SOCK PATTERN
A little about the woman first. Helen Kathleen FANECO was born on 18 Sep
1891 at Tatyoon near Ararat, Victoria, Australia. No doubt she learned
this sock pattern from her mother before her. Apart from the countless
pairs of socks she knitted, Helen was most famous for her paintings. She
learned to paint at about the age of 8 (which was 6 years BEFORE she
started formal education) from her Aunt Sarah OWEN. Her father would not
allow her to paint, so she set up a secret studio in the loft of the
stables and at night, with her elder borther Hubert, who was a cripple,
she used to sneak down to the back paddocks where they would hand reap a couple of bags of wheat with a scythe in order for Helen to buy her
paints. She was also expert at many other crafts including papier mache
adorned with poker work; creative lolly (candy) manufacture; embroidery
etc. Helen married David McGARVIE on 17 Oct 1917 at her family
homestead, "Heatherlie", Ararat, then she moved to his town of
Pomborneit where she lived until she passed away on 22 Feb 1985, aged 93
years in Camperdown, Victoria, Australia. I have included all Granny's
hints within the pattern.
MATERIALS
Granny would only ever use Patonyle 5 ply wool and a set of 4 X size 12
needles. (I use 5 ply and size 10s). You can vary the size of the sock
by using smaller or larger needles and finer or thicker wool.
On three size 10 needles cast on 60 sts. (I cast them all one one needle
and then divide into 3). Work the band as follows (every round is the
same). K2b; P2. There must be three stripes in the band, so you work 10
rounds main colour; 4 rounds contrast; 4 rounds main; 6 rounds contrast;
4 rounds main; 4 rounds contrast; 10 rounds main.
Continue leg of sock in K only for desired length to top of hell. I find
that from 35 to 50 rounds is plenty although Granny always made them longer.
HEEL: At end of last round, TURN
ROW 1: sl1, P1 across 30 sts., sl1 TURN
ROW 2: K
Repeat these 2 ROWS 17 more times (i.e. 36 rows in all). [The Slipped
sts. On the ends of these rows make it easy to pick up sts. for the
ankle later on].
NEXT ROW: P 19 sts.; P2tog.; P1, TURN
NEXT ROW: K9:; sl1, K1, p.s.s.o.; K1, TURN
NEXT ROW: P until 1 st. before the gap where you turned; P2tog.; P1.
TURN
NEXT ROW: K to 1 st. before gap where you turned, sl1, K1, p.s.s.o., K1,
TURN
Continue in this manner until back at end of needle ending with a K row.
Now you should be able to see the 18 slipped sts. down the side of the
heel. Using each one pick up 18 sts. knitting into the back of the loop.
Then pick up 1 st. more just before next needle (this is the spot where
it's easy to get a gaping hole, hence this extra st.)
NEXT: K. across 29 sts.
NEXT: pick up the extra st. where the hole could develop in this corner
(through the back of the loop). Then pick up a further 18 sts. up the
other side of the heel, again through the back of the sts. WITHOUT
changing to next needle continue across heel sts. Still half way across.
This will be the beginning of each round from now on. Arrange sts. thus:
1st needle 28 sts; 2nd needle 29 sts.; 3rd needle 29 sts. and continue
as follows:
Knit 1 round.
NEXT round: K to last 3 sts. on first needle; sl1, K1, p.s.s.o.; K1.;
(next needle) K 29: (third needle) K1; K2tog. K to end.
NEXT round: K
Repeat these 2 rounds until you are once again down to 60 sts. (i.e. 15;
29; 16 sts.) and keep this configuration of sts.
FOOT: K straight for desired length to knob on side of big toe. (Usually
about 35 to 40 rounds depending on length of foot).
TOE:
Round 1: (first needle) K to last 3 sts.; sl1, K1, p.s.s.o.; K1.
( second needle) K1; K2tog.; K to last 3 sts.; sl1; K1;
p.s.s.o.; K1
(third needle) K1; K2tog.; K to end.
THIS ROUND will be repeated on the following 4th; 8th; 11th; 14th; 17;
and then alternate rounds until there are 20 sts. remaining. So having
completed Round 1, K 3 rounds; one round shaping; K 3 rounds; one round
shaping etc.
ARRANGE the remaining 20 sts. on two opposing needles by moving the last
st. knitted on to the next needle, and graft them invisibly, commencing
with the working thread at the right hand end of the rear needle and
then remember back, back, front, front (meaning the wool goes into the
back of the 1st st. on the front needle (slip it off); back of next st.
on front needle (purl wise); front of 1st on rear needle (slip it off);
front of next st. on rear needle. Continue. I can never remember the
grafting bit, but I'm pretty sure that's how it goes.
TURN inside out and darn in all ends neatly.
Good luck everyone - complements of David C. COLLYER and his Granny
McGARVIE.
*******************************************
BOBBIN LACE PATTERNS
BOBBIN LACE BRIDAL GARTER
Joan Posener
I rely heavily on the Cook and Stott patterns for bridal garters1
Especially when it is a project for a close family member. I can't
tell you any one pattern that I use because I do something different
every time.
Thought I would share how I make mine.
Materials and instructions:
25 inches of lace with ending attached to beginning (I have been known
to sew this together when I am in a hurry...horrors!!!)
26 inches of 2 inch wide satin ribbon folded over and sewn lengthwise
(shiny side out with lace caught into seam) I have used 2 pieces of 1
inch ribbon and sewn along both edges.
14 inches of 1/2 inch elastic (I use grosgrain type because it doesn't
curl easily). Thread the elastic through the ribbon tube and stitch
beginning and end of elastic securely. Tuck ribbon ends under
and stitch ribbon to complete tube. This seam will be hidden
under a decoration.
I sometimes make a lace flower with about 10 inches of lace gathered
and bead(s) in the center, sometimes with leaves from a sewing
accessories shop.
Shiny ribbon gathered tightly will make a lovely flower, decorated
further as whim dictates. Try this...take about 18 inches of 1-2 inch
satin ribbon.
Baste across one end, along one long side, and across other end. Use
double thread for strength. Gather up flower tightly and shape into
flower sewing it together on the underside of the flower. Poke needle
through the middle from the underside and catch a bead (perhaps a
teardrop?) and secure down.
With remaining thread sew the flower to the garter, tacking here and
there to make it secure.
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