A Chairdean Ionmhuinn Mo Chinnidh
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In October of 1868, Loughlin and Murdock, at the ages of 23 and 24, traveled to New York City, probably by ship, from Halifax. Ships sailed out of New York four times a month on the 1st, 16th, 19th, and 24th. Sailing day was always exciting, with the entrance to the docks clogged with drays, shouting porters and wide-eyed passengers. During this year 40,000 people would travel to California in this manner. This was nearly half of those who came west; the remainder came overland. By water, the trip averaged 21 days, contrasted to three months overland. One hundred pounds of luggage could be carried for free by each first class passenger. As a shipping company ad said in the New York Times at that time, "Medicine and Attendance are Free."
The two Canadians (technically. Englishmen) sailed Captain King's Ocean Queen from New York on October 16, accompanied by Hugh Gillis, their 46-year old uncle of Canadian birth.
The Ocean Queen was a 2,715-ton vessel which was built in New York in 1857 for $450,000. It was originally christened the Queen of the Pacific. It was first owned by the San Francisco/Nicaragua Steamship Company and was 327 feet in length. Later it was sold to PMSS. The Queen was a wooden side-wheel steamer with three decks, two masts, two stacks, and an eagle figurehead. It was used as a troop ship during the civil war. It carried 804 passengers on this trip and it was owned prior to 1865 by Cornelius Vanderbilt, at which time it was used in the trans-Atlantic service. Ships of the middle 19th century were fitted with sails as a matter of course and sometimes the sheets were helpful in augmenting the engines as well as providing a means of getting into port should the engines or coal supply fail. Their journey took place a little over a year after Canada had achieved its liberty on July 1, 1867.
Upon leaving New York Harbor, the boys would have heard the firing of three or four guns at Fort Lafayette. From New York, the ship sailed to Charleston and then to Tybee Light below Savannah. In both ports, it hoved-to, rather than entering the harbor. Passengers and mail were brought out to the ship. The reason the ships hove to was for had they entered the harbor, state laws required that their colored crew members be bonded. They then sailed to Havana, New Orleans and back to Havana. After circling the western tip of Cuba, they headed directly for Aspinwall, Isthmus of Panama.
"Nova Scotia juts out into the Atlantic in the shape of a lobster's claw. And, as we journeyed around that claw last September, every restaurant offered lobster along with delectable shrimp, scallops and just about everything else except Siamese fighting fish.
To watch the scallop fleet return may introduce a game for tourists. The small boats flash brilliant colors, and the game is to match up boats with houses along the shore.
"Boats are painted first, "our tour guide informed us." Houses receive paint that's left over. Makes an address easy to locate except when a fisherman has to borrow paint from a neighbor to finish a wall. "
Scenery changes rapidly as the soaring, dipping, winding road falls behind the bus. The sea, cobalt to turquoise, gives way to a sea of grass; the vast Tantramar marsh, a green expanse broken only by an occasional weather-grayed barn. Early fall rain curtains the marsh with a warm mist as the sun returns to toast the silvery fur of pussy willow along the dykes.
Here comes the wind to funnel up Fundy Bay, to wave acres of grass tops, to waft the scent of wild roses and pine needles, to toss the gulls swarming in when the tides go out.
Here, in this province supported by lumber and fishing, here in this sea-haunted land, the pace of past centuries adheres to each day like barnacles to boats. Sturdy people reveal a strength of character earned by living in isolation and by living to the rythm of earth and tide.
Perhaps even more than the grandeur, history and sheer beauty of battering sea, is a sense that here there is depth and meaning to life. Like the Arcadians, like the symbolic butterflies and the migrating geese, we plan to return."
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