Page 2

or almost 40 years (from the mid 40’s through the early 80’s), Albania was ruled by a communist dictator, Hoxha. He had instilled upon the people a fear that the Americans and other Capitalist warlords were coming to take over Albania. All hands were diverted to spend their time building cement bunkers throughout this country. They are everywhere: city street corners, hills, farm fields. In mountainsides, huge bunkers were dug and filled with ammunition and guns. With all the cement they used on the bunkers they could have built a new home for each Albanian family.

hen Hoxha died, the country held an election which was won by the crooked organized crime party. They set up pyramid scheme-type banking programs with 50-100% interest rates and won the monies of all Albanians. Everyone invested for years and some became quite wealthy. In the mid 1990’s, the schemes started collapsing and within a few years, everyone was broke. In Vlore, the people started rioting against the establishment. They raided the gun caches and began their man hunt for those responsible.

his started here in Vlore, but soon the whole country was caught up in it. All the expats were evacuated, and many Albanians fled to other countries as refugees. For one complete year (1997), this country was in a state of civil war where deadly vengence and retribution were commonplace. Everyone had (and still has) an AK-47 and a hand grenade or two for protection. No morals seemed to rule what happened here. Mark had countless murder threats. At the end of one year, every commercial building in Vlore was looted except for the two orphanages guarded by Christians. Most buildings and roads still show signs of this lawless time.

n the brink of self destruction, the war quieted down. There is no money here, but people get by. There is a semblance of government and police now, but it still doesn’t seem like a place where any rules really apply. It lives by the motto, You are not guilty unless you are caught. Even so, the police are scared to really catch anyone for fear that the guilty person's family will take retribution against them or their family. This is so common that they have a group of special police who do all the dirty work. They wear camoflage and black ski masks so you can’t identify who they are. When a big raid is happening, you see them on the streets in full gear, AK-47 in tow. We sometimes feel like we are in one of those futuristic, post-nuclear war, sci-fi movies like Mad Max. Really!

here are a few curious things here. Albania has the most Mercedes per capita in the world. Even though the streets are horrific and there are no traffic laws or stoplights that operate, beautiful Mercedes polished to a spit-shine fill the streets. Almost 80% of the new cars here are stolen from Western Europe. The Mercedes is the mafia car of choice and is rumored to be the best car for the roads of Albania. Another factoid is the abundance of oil. With ancient rusting equipment, oil seeps into the earth spilling onto the roads and into the rivers. In one area of the country, black stains of oil mar green hills and globs of black crude float down otherwise picturesque streams. Different oil companies have attempted ventures here, but most pull out after experiencing the bureaucracy and extortion of the Albanian government.


back
Travelogue
Home
next