Early September 1998
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ell, Russia is not white or at least ‘in the black’ these days, 
but living up to its historical ‘red.’  It’s quite interesting 
to be here in the midst of financial and political crises.  Not 
being big Russophiles before we came, we find ourselves surprisingly 
caught up in the daily changes in this country’s issues, sentiments 
and exchange rates!  Having been out of the world news for awhile, 
we were taken a bit off-guard upon arriving in St. Petersburg and 
finding the exchange rate a lot better than what we expected.  Still 
unaware, we checked into our accomodations and the clerk quoted our 
stay in US Dollars.  When we asked the cost in rubles, she highly 
inflated the ruble price to make it disadvantageous to pay in 
Russian currency.  It was then that a Canadian woman told us that 
‘everything was falling apart out there’, 'banks weren’t accepting 
traveler’s cheques or currency other than US Dollars or the Deustch 
Mark', 'ATMs work, but who knows for how long.' We knew then that we 
were in for a ride.  Subsequently, we’ve see the value of the ruble 
fall over 100% while we’ve been here, and prices rise (for some things) in a similar fashion.
eedless to say, it hasn’t been too hard for us.  We were accustomed to 
using ATM’s across Europe.  This was an easy way to get foreign 
currency at a good exchange rate.  Once the ATM’s ran out of money 
here, (one woman laughed when we asked if it would be refilled), we 
dipped into our Central Asian cash reserve.
n some ways, it doesn’t seem too hard for Russians either.  This 
weekend celebrated ‘Moscow Day’, the 851st anniversary of the city 
of Moscow.  Althought the festivities were quoted to be ‘tamed down 
due to the financial crisis’, we enjoyed a large street festival with 
multiple music venues scattered around blocked-off streets downtown.  
There was a light mood in the air, and it didn’t feel like the mobs of 
pople around us were part of a country in crisis.
here are many signs of it though, and perhaps a festival was a respite 
from the recent panic-stricken days.  There are long lines outside 
the banks as customers anxiously wait to hopefully withdraw their 
savings.  Stores of imported goods - the hardest hit- have temporarily 
closed ‘for technical reasons’ or having remained open, seen a 
flourish of Russians purchasing goods in an effort to tangibly 
recognize their current wealth.  Here in Moscow, we experienced a 
grocery store flooded with shoppers buying up staples from barren 
shelves while stockers tried to keep up.  The Central Bank of Russia 
changes the national exchange rate daily while the resurging black 
market exchanges, popping up everywhere, potentially quote a truer 
picture.  It is outside of these spots that Russian men have 
approached us asking if we want to ‘change money’.
ne elder Soviet man told us in so many words (and signs) that 
'His Father country had hung itself'.  We wonder if many of the 
old soldiers that we’ve seen still wearing their medals proudly, 
share this same sentiment.  In these crazed days, it is easy to 
wonder what normal Russian life would be like, (Are there always 
this many policemen about?!), and even to question how it was before 
terms like 'glasnost' and 'perestroika' came to be common words.
egardless of the now and then, one cannot change the beauty and the 
grandeur of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg or the historical presence 
of Red Square and the Kremlin in Moscow.  We have taken in the culture 
of these cities, the culture of years gone by and the culture of today 
and tomorrow.  It is in taking in all of these things that we have 
enjoyed the longer days here and have often pondered what the days 
without nightfall, the ‘White Nights’, of Russia would be like.  
Even without these nights, we are still content with our evening 
views of parks, onion-domed churches, and a full moon.