reetings from Uzbekistan. "Uzbeki-where?" We didn't know where it
was either, so don't feel bad if you need to look at a map. Even
locals say that their foreign mail occasionally gets shipped to
Pakistan first before being forwarded on correctly. Colloquially
known as Turkestan during the USSR, Uzbekistan is one of the five
Central Asian states formed after the fall of the Iron Curtain.
Today, the Central Independent States, or CIS, are comprised of
Uzbekistan, Kazakstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Krygyzstan.
e arrived in sunny Uzbekistan after a three day train journey from
cold Moscow to the Uzbek capital city of Tashkent. Jill's anxieties
about a long train ride among people with whom we did not speak a
common language were quickly relieved. Her prayers were answered as
we opened our train compartment. Our compartment "mate", a babushka
named Lubov, with her three year old granddaughter, spoke just enough
English to carry on conversations with us and anyone else who wanted
to speak with us. Indeed, after three days, most folks probably knew
where the "Amerikanskiis" were on the train. After hearing and
reading too many tales about foreigners having terrible experiences on
these trains with policemen, border guards, and the train conductors
themselves, we had to conclude that only the bad press gets reported.
We experienced smooth sailing and an incredible amount of generosity
as Europe dissolved into the steppes of Asia. The notion of "What is
mine is yours" seemed unprecedented to us as people shared their food,
drink, and lives with each other and with us,
zbekistan is home to some of the great Silk Route oases, places of
safety and rest for early traders who crossed the dangerous mountains
and deserts of Central Asia while shuttling goods between the Orient
and the West. In Samarkand, at the junction of ancient caravan
routes, King Tamarlane (approx. 1400) built his imperial capital
recognizable by the colossal blue domes that sprout across the old
city skyline. In Khiva and Bukhara, the mazes of mosques, mud houses,
and former medrassahs (schools of Islam) made us feel like we had
walked into an Indiana Jones epic. In the 19th century these cities
also hosted some of the Great Game's life or death desert crossings.
(The Great Game was a battle of espionage and intrigue played out by
Britain and Russia to close the gap of "no man's land", Central Asia,
between Russia and India.) In all the ancient cities, we marveled at
the old architecture, the amazing tile work that covered it, and the
stories and legends that surround them. Just as interesting as its
history, Uzbekistan is home to fascinating people and a unique culture.
odern Uzbeks are a melting pot of people. Russians, Uzbeks, Koreans
and others are all working to survive in this economically challenged
country. The official language is Uzbek, while the only language
everyone can speak is Russian. Through volunteer organizations and
non-profit donations, English is now taught in schools. We were
sometimes flooded with groups of children wanting to say the one
phrase they knew, "Hello. What is your name?" Subtle signs of the
west are visible in Tashkent and other big cities, but in the village
life remains pretty native. Russians seem more eager to adopt Western
culture (and dress) while Uzbek people strive to return to their
culture, customs, and way of life.
reetings from Uzbekistan. "Uzbeki-where?" We didn't know where it
was either, so don't feel bad if you need to look at a map. Even
locals say that their foreign mail occasionally gets shipped to
Pakistan first before being forwarded on correctly. Colloquially
known as Turkestan during the USSR, Uzbekistan is one of the five
Central Asian states formed after the fall of the Iron Curtain.
Today, the Central Independent States, or CIS, are comprised of
Uzbekistan, Kazakstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Krygyzstan.
e arrived in sunny Uzbekistan after a three day train journey from
cold Moscow to the Uzbek capital city of Tashkent. Jill's anxieties
about a long train ride among people with whom we did not speak a
common language were quickly relieved. Her prayers were answered as
we opened our train compartment. Our compartment "mate", a babushka
named Lubov, with her three year old granddaughter, spoke just enough
English to carry on conversations with us and anyone else who wanted
to speak with us. Indeed, after three days, most folks probably knew
where the "Amerikanskiis" were on the train. After hearing and
reading too many tales about foreigners having terrible experiences on
these trains with policemen, border guards, and the train conductors
themselves, we had to conclude that only the bad press gets reported.
We experienced smooth sailing and an incredible amount of generosity
as Europe dissolved into the steppes of Asia. The notion of "What is
mine is yours" seemed unprecedented to us as people shared their food,
drink, and lives with each other and with us,
zbekistan is home to some of the great Silk Route oases, places of
safety and rest for early traders who crossed the dangerous mountains
and deserts of Central Asia while shuttling goods between the Orient
and the West. In Samarkand, at the junction of ancient caravan
routes, King Tamarlane (approx. 1400) built his imperial capital
recognizable by the colossal blue domes that sprout across the old
city skyline. In Khiva and Bukhara, the mazes of mosques, mud houses,
and former medrassahs (schools of Islam) made us feel like we had
walked into an Indiana Jones epic. In the 19th century these cities
also hosted some of the Great Game's life or death desert crossings.
(The Great Game was a battle of espionage and intrigue played out by
Britain and Russia to close the gap of "no man's land", Central Asia,
between Russia and India.) In all the ancient cities, we marveled at
the old architecture, the amazing tile work that covered it, and the
stories and legends that surround them. Just as interesting as its
history, Uzbekistan is home to fascinating people and a unique culture.
odern Uzbeks are a melting pot of people. Russians, Uzbeks, Koreans
and others are all working to survive in this economically challenged
country. The official language is Uzbek, while the only language
everyone can speak is Russian. Through volunteer organizations and
non-profit donations, English is now taught in schools. We were
sometimes flooded with groups of children wanting to say the one
phrase they knew, "Hello. What is your name?" Subtle signs of the
west are visible in Tashkent and other big cities, but in the village
life remains pretty native. Russians seem more eager to adopt Western
culture (and dress) while Uzbek people strive to return to their
culture, customs, and way of life.
