e entered Kyrgystan on October 10th in the aftermath of a surprise,
early season snowstorm. Bishkek was blanketed in white; quite a change
from our desert experience of the past month! Since the beginning of
the year, we had been hoping to conclude our stay in Central Asia with a
more exotic crossing into China via the remote 12,500-foot Torugart
Pass. Now as we explored Bishkek, with wet snow falling out of the
trees and down our backs, it appeared we were too late and we began to
brainstorm other possibilities for getting into China. Fortunately, the
alternatives were unnecessary. A couple days later, a new friend and
tour operator, Ian, assured us that the pass was kept open all year.
Indeed, with all the Chinese goods we saw in Kyrgystan, it had to be
true!
ith our transport to China secured, we had two weeks to pass in the
surprisingly beautiful country of Krygystan. This is one of those places
where 4000 to 5000 meter peaks beckon you at every turn to come and
play.
Passive, nomadic people, the Kyrgyz didn't create big cities, but live
in small
villages where daily life hasn't changed in a long time. In fact, the
"Russified" capital city of Bishkek barely existed 100 years ago.
ere in this mile-high city we had a wonderful hostess, a Peace Corps
staffer named Peggy. She welcomed us into her home and gave us some
royal Western treatment - hot showers, a clean toilet, American
magazines, TV/videos, and fresh Starbucks coffee every morning.
e were excited about all of this, but the open kitchen was the real
treat. We'd spent so much time drooling over an abundance of fresh
produce in markets only to be disappointed by the predominantly meat
dishes most often found in restaurants. Peggy was very gracious as we
"took over" making big breakfasts and dinners, sharing with her what we
had. Conversing each night over fresh raspberry cobbler, we found that
Peggy had a very interesting life, and we enjoyed hearing her stories.
t was a "big sigh" sort of feeling to stay in a place where what you
expect (like a bathroom with a real toilet) is what really is. Dealing
with this issue, expectation vs. reality, is a big part of a trip like
this. Learning how to react when only cold water comes out of the tap
can be maddening or humorous. One thing's for sure, the unexpected
"Peggy's" that we've met make it easier for the eventual cold showers to
be humorous! Bellies full and spirits high, we left Bishkek to explore.
e entered Kyrgystan on October 10th in the aftermath of a surprise,
early season snowstorm. Bishkek was blanketed in white; quite a change
from our desert experience of the past month! Since the beginning of
the year, we had been hoping to conclude our stay in Central Asia with a
more exotic crossing into China via the remote 12,500-foot Torugart
Pass. Now as we explored Bishkek, with wet snow falling out of the
trees and down our backs, it appeared we were too late and we began to
brainstorm other possibilities for getting into China. Fortunately, the
alternatives were unnecessary. A couple days later, a new friend and
tour operator, Ian, assured us that the pass was kept open all year.
Indeed, with all the Chinese goods we saw in Kyrgystan, it had to be
true!
ere in this mile-high city we had a wonderful hostess, a Peace Corps
staffer named Peggy. She welcomed us into her home and gave us some
royal Western treatment - hot showers, a clean toilet, American
magazines, TV/videos, and fresh Starbucks coffee every morning.
t was a "big sigh" sort of feeling to stay in a place where what you
expect (like a bathroom with a real toilet) is what really is. Dealing
with this issue, expectation vs. reality, is a big part of a trip like
this. Learning how to react when only cold water comes out of the tap
can be maddening or humorous. One thing's for sure, the unexpected
"Peggy's" that we've met make it easier for the eventual cold showers to
be humorous! Bellies full and spirits high, we left Bishkek to explore.
