Tales From China

Page 5

ore difficult to digest than paying a few extra kwai for food in the market are the "get rich off the foreigner schemes". These are designed to trade some of your cash for an incensed humiliation that seems to linger for awhile, leaving you with a distrust of even sincere generosity. Thankfully, this feeling wears off!

or us, we experienced the festering embarrassment of being "had" in Xi’an on the day we went to visit the Terracotta Warriors. We had walked from our hotel to the train station where local buses leave for the cities around the Warrior museum. We didn’t know which bus to take, but the local attendants all thought they knew as they yelled "Terracotta Warriors" to us in Chinese. When it was obvious that we were still clueless, they tried to make it easier for us by pointing to the Chinese characters. Hmmm. Finally, one brave man managed "Terracotta Warriors" in English and our enlightenment made everyone sigh with relief. We felt even more at ease when we were charged local price without haggling. As the bus ride dragged on, we soon found that most of the locals had departed, though we continued to see billboards and signs for the museum and other tourist attractions. We knew we were headed in the right direction.

ventually, our bus pulled into a small parking lot. Behind a high wall, we could see three large red pagodas and through the entrance a small battalion of Terracotta Warriors in formation. We should have suspected something when the bus driver escorted us to the ticket booth. The entrance fee was much lower than we expected and as we paid, we were the only ones that weren’t smiling. It seemed fishy.

e looked around and questioned if we were in the right spot. It was the off season, a colder, gray day - there were a few tourists, but less than what one would expect an archeological feat like this could draw on any day. We asked for our money back. That was the beginning of our demise. Avarice (and the smell of a good commission) seized our bus driver and two others to lie to us repeatedly that we were in the right spot. First to one and then the other, they profusely encouraged us to go in. These were the Terracotta Warriors. You can see the writing on the wall already. Against our better judgment and intuition, we began to doubt ourselves. Then, in one swift move, Dave paid and we entered our fate. It didn’t take long to realize that we had been had.

e were so angry! How could two reasonably intelligent people be so taken? Ugh. It was obvious that we were NOT visiting the archeological site, but where we were we weren’t sure. We’d paid about 5 USD to see something, the question was "What was it?" If we didn’t have such a sense of heightened frustration, we might have found more irony in it all. We had paid to visit Emperor Qin’s Museum of Amusement.

mperor Qin was the ruler who wanted to take a life-size terracotta army with him to the afterlife. His amusement, as we discovered, was methods of torture and execution against prisoners and enemies of the state. In three large pagodas, we saw very elaborate dioramas with life-size "Terracotta Warriors" engaged in treacherous and grotesque acts of killing. As we left, the man in charge said "Thank you for coming." We thought "Thank you for lining my pocket" was more appropriate as we trudged another kilometer down the road to our true destination.


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