Tales From China
Page 5
ore difficult to digest than paying a few extra kwai for food in the market 
are the "get rich off the foreigner schemes".  These are designed to 
trade some of your cash for an incensed humiliation that seems to 
linger for awhile, leaving you with a distrust of even sincere 
generosity.  Thankfully, this feeling wears off!
or us, we experienced the festering embarrassment of being "had" in 
Xi’an on the day we went to visit the Terracotta Warriors.  We had 
walked from our hotel to the train station where local buses leave for 
the cities around the Warrior museum.  We didn’t know which bus to 
take, but the local attendants all thought they knew as they yelled 
"Terracotta Warriors" to us in Chinese.  When it was obvious that we 
were still clueless, they tried to make it easier for us by pointing 
to the Chinese characters.  Hmmm.  Finally, one brave man managed "Terracotta 
Warriors" in English and our enlightenment made everyone sigh with 
relief.  We felt even more at ease when we were charged local price 
without haggling.  As the bus ride dragged on, we soon found that most 
of the locals had departed, though we continued to see billboards and 
signs for the museum and other 
tourist attractions.  We knew we were headed in the right direction.  
ventually, our bus pulled into a small parking lot.  Behind a high 
wall, we could see three large red pagodas and through the entrance a 
small battalion of Terracotta Warriors in formation.  We should have 
suspected something when the bus driver escorted us to the ticket 
booth.  The entrance fee was much lower than we expected and as we 
paid, we were the only ones that weren’t smiling.  It seemed fishy.  
e looked around and questioned if we were in the right spot.  It was 
the off season, a colder, gray day - there were a few tourists, but 
less than what one would expect an archeological feat like this could 
draw on any day.  We asked for our money back.  That was the beginning 
of our demise.  Avarice (and the smell of a good commission) seized 
our bus driver and two others to lie to us repeatedly that we were in 
the right spot.  First to one and then the other, they profusely 
encouraged us to go in.  These were the Terracotta Warriors.  You can 
see the writing on the wall already.  Against our better judgment and 
intuition, we began to doubt ourselves.  Then, in one swift move, Dave 
paid and we entered our fate.  It didn’t take long to realize that we 
had been had.
e were so angry!  How could two reasonably intelligent people be so 
taken?  Ugh.  It was obvious that we were NOT visiting the archeological
 site, but where we were we weren’t sure.  We’d paid about 5 USD to see
 something, the question was "What was it?"  If we didn’t have such a 
sense of heightened frustration, we might have found more irony in it 
all.  We had paid to visit Emperor Qin’s Museum of Amusement.  
mperor 
Qin was the ruler who wanted to take a life-size terracotta army with 
him to the afterlife.  His amusement, as we discovered, was methods of 
torture and execution against prisoners and enemies of the state.  In 
three large pagodas, we saw very elaborate dioramas with life-size 
"Terracotta Warriors" engaged in treacherous and grotesque acts of 
killing.  As we left, the man in charge said "Thank you for coming."  We thought 
"Thank you for lining my pocket" was more appropriate as we trudged 
another kilometer down the road to our true destination.