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Choosing Embroidery Thread
By: George Royal
Selecting the right type
of threads for any embroidery work is important because the color and texture of
the design, and eventually the look of the final product depend on the material
and type of thread used. There’s a wide variety of embroidery thread to choose
from, so take your time to decide what type or combination should be best for
the design you have in mind. More importantly, thread selections should be
based on Sewability, Seam Performance and Appearance, Availability and Cost.
Types:
1. Rayon: This type of
thread has a great sheen, and so the best looking embroidery designs are
stitched with it. Rayon threads can range from combinations of two or more
colors twisted together thereby forming a single strand, to one solid color
strand. They are widely available, mostly in standard 40 wt. and 30 wt. Even
though Rayon is the most popular type, it’s not very sturdy because of its
thinness.
2. Polyester: Polyester
thread is more durable than Rayon but it is not as attractive. However, this
type of embroidery thread hardly shrinks or fades, and if combined with Rayon,
the effect they provide is nearly indistinguishable. It is also cheaper than
Rayon thread.
3. Cotton: Cotton thread
allows for a wide range of tension adjustments because of its texture. It has a
nice sheen, is quite sturdy (though finer threads above 50 wt. are not), and
typically used for machine embroidery.
4. Silk: Silk embroidery
thread hardly breaks and has its own unique, and probably the best sheen.
Threads come in various sizes but their availability is low so they are mostly
used for luxury fabrics.
5. Metallic Thread: This
type of thread has a core wrapped with a metal foil which may be coated with
silver alloy, and color is added to this foil with a polyester film which may
also be applied as an undercoating. Metallic thread is one of the most durable
available on the market.
6. Mylar Thread: Plies of
film are combined into a layer, cut into slices to create Mylar threads. They
are durable but may break under high-speed sewing. One unique color feature is
holographic hue, which picks up and reflects light or color from other
surrounding objects. This really enhances the color and design of the
embroidery.
7. Special-effect: Like
the name suggests, this type of thread can be used to create different design
effects, such as crewel-like effect. Some of the special effect threads change
colors under sunlight, or may glow in the dark.
Quality Evaluation:
1. Tensile Strength: The
tensile strength of an embroidery thread can be tested by sawing a suspended
strand with another strand back and forth until the first strand breaks. The
faster it breaks, the lower the strength and quality of that particular thread
type.
2. Elongation: A good
thread must have the right amount of stretch. Take a piece of the thread and
stretch it till it breaks. The strand should neither break too quickly nor
stretch for too long.
3. Sheen: The luster and
quality of the sheen can be tested by studying the color and design of a
finished embroidery product.
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