Introduction
This Site is about the Chinese Oriental Green Water Dragon.
The most green of the Water Dragon species. The other is the Brown Water Dragon. They seem to be a little bit territorial then the Green Water Dragons. And males might be a little more aggressive. On this site you will find info on : Caging, diet, climate, water habitats, training, breeding, and much, much, more!
Green Water Dragons are trainable, beautiful, and intelligent lizards. But they are not a lizard that young kids should look after- even with the help of an adult. This lizard should be looked after by experienced lizard keepers- not after you have had your first gecko.Water Dragons like all animals need a responsible parent to protect and care for their every need. The more time you give to these lizards, the better life they will have.
Oh and please after you are finished reading this site go down to the last thing- Me And My Dragons for other web sites on dragon to visit! I put all the best ones!
About me-
My name is Amber Allen. I have kept all types of lizards, and have for the last 8 years. I have had Brown Bark Anoles, Green Anoles, Blue Anoles (a RARE species of anole), and 2 Water Dragons in that time. I hope you enjoy the site. I spent the last 2 years working on it! No part of the information contained on this site can be used in any way.This site was made by Amber Allen. All information on this site by Amber Allen. Unless noted otherwise.
The Care Of The Dragon In Short
Name:Oriental Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus concincinus)
Total Length: 32 in (80cm). Head torso 10 in (25cm).
Habitat: Tropical Rain Forests, always close to water.
Looks: Spikes from neck to end of tail, males noticeably larger than females.
Behavior: Tree Dwelling. Lives in lose groups in wild.
Maintenance: Terrarium: 60 X 40 X 40 inches (150 X 100 X 100 cm)- for one male and two females (But I would recommend a whole room).
Decor: Branches, non-Toxic plants,large water containers, (better yet- a built in pond!), mature dragons need 6in of earth in cage.
Lighting: UV lighting and basking lights.
Temperature: day-77 night- 68 degrees.
Humidity: 80 - 90 %
Food: worms, crickets, bits of fruit, baby- fish, rats,and mice, some like rice.
To Get Or Not To Get? That Is The Question
-Don’t get a dragon if you can’t afford to keep it in sanitary conditions.
-Don’t keep a dragon if you can’t afford it.
-Don’t keep a dragon if you can’t put in a decent cage.
-Don’t get a dragon if you might to an non-pet apartment sometime in the next fifteen years.
-Don’t get a dragon if your parents say no.
-Don’t get a dragon if you can’t feed it.
-Don’t get a dragon if you can’t be careful.
-Don’t get a dragon if you don’t have time on your hands.
-Don’t get a dragon if you don’t have a lot of money.
-Don’t get one if you are not over 12.
- Don’t get a water dragon if you don’t like large lizards.
-Don’t get one if you an not an expert with lizard keeping.
*Get a dragon if you can do and have the things above. And if you want to get one.*
Before Buying
Before you get your Green Water Dragon, research as much as you possibly can. Buy books, research at the library, ask a pet store (but be warned- they tend to give unreliable information!), ask friends, go to places on the internet where you can ask other Water Dragon owners about the lizard, research on the internet, and join a Water Dragon list (where you ask questions and get answers).
Water Dragon owning is a full time job! No matter what other sites or books say it is! You can not dump a few crickets in the cage and expect it to eat sometime. You have to watch them eat. Or you can hand feed (I do). I will talk about that later on in the Feeding section.
Some Water Dragons do not become tame. If you want a tame one you have to hold them twice a day for a half hour.
But please do not buy a Water Dragon if you do not have lots of money to feed it, cage it and buy all the other things they need.
And do not buy one if you are not comfortable with large lizards! These lizards get up to a meter long or more. Therefore they need big cages, and if you can not provide one- then don’t get one.
This lizard (as I said) is for experienced lizard owners only! I would say that a person (who has lizards in the past and took good care of them) who is about 13 -14 could take care of one.
Now if you have the all the money and time and know a lot about lizards and are experienced with them and are over 13 or 14 and have the room, this lizard might be for you > read on if you want to know more.
Also before getting a dragon- get the tank set up. Please.
Costs
What to buy (Sorry this is all in Canadain. I live in Quebec so it’s different)-
A Baby Water Dragon $100
A Small 20 Gallon Tank $40
Some Crickets $3
Substrate $9 -$20 depends on what kind check substrate text
Books $20
Plants live $4 - $10 Plastic plants $1 - $4
Tree Limbs -$0 go out side- but before read decor
Bowl $7 - $20
Baby Food- fruit flavored $0.30 - $1
Screen Top tank Cover $10 - $20
Lights $10 - $30
Minerals & Stuff $20
Other $20
Choosing A Dragon
To choose a dragon:
Look at the body- If it has these don’t buy it-
see if any limbs are bent or twisted oddly
see if there is any swelling any where
see if it has any cuts
see if any toes are missing
Get-
if there is no indication of any of the above
if the eyes are bright and alert looking
if it looks at you in a friendly way
if it looks plump
if it has a plump tail base
if it is beathing properly
if you really, really want it
The dragon should have a nice bright green color. If a dragon is brown it is ether cold or very sick, or under a lot of stress. Inspect the mouth, you do this by gently tapping your finger against the mouth of the dragon, and saying aaahhhh (just kidding about the aaahhhh part:), if this does not work you can gently open his mouth for him. if you see any cheesy orange/yellow stuff- this is mouth rot. Don’ buy the lizard if it has this!!!!
He should be very active and interested in his surroundings.
Buying
Green Water Dragons cast around $90 - $120 Canadian.
Step 1: When buying one look at the cage the lizard was living in at the pet store. Is it clean? Is it dirty? If it’s clean goon to the next step. If it’s not- report them to the SPCA or get out of that pet sore!!!
Step 2: If the Cage is clean, the next step is to look at the lizard. Is the lizard hurt anywhere on its body? Are the toes intact? Is the lizards moth free of mouth rot (go to Ailments section)? Is tail intact? If every things A-Ok go on to Step 3. If not get out of the pet store!!!
Step 3: If he lizard is fine. Ask if it is captive breed. Ask if you had it checked by a vet and found something wrong with it, could you get all your money back? If it is captive breed and the answer of the question is yes- go to step 4. If not get out of that pet store!!!
Step 4: If the answer is captive breed and the answer to the question is yes. Check the price. Got the money? Buy it! Don’t got the money?- Get to the bank quick!
After You Have Bought The Lizard
You carefully bring the lizard home.
You set him up in his tank.
You put him in and watch him closely from a distance.
You make sure the room is quite.
Put a few crickets in.
Wait and watch- might seem boring- but it’s actually fun!!!
Don’t handle the dragon until a couple of days after the purchase- this will allow him to adjust to his surroundings and get in to his new life style. Remember this is a stressing time for your lizard, and he may stop eating for a few days or a week- but he should be drinking water.If the dragon looks ill- then contact your vet immediately.
Housing
If you plan to get a 3 month old or a 4 month old- get a 15 gallon tank.
What to do when he/she gets bigger? 1 year old up-
You have a few options on this cage idea for your 1 year old Green Dragon- who you will want to live in this cage for awhile.
You can get:
A big glass tank-a 150 gallon would do nicely.(Cost a bundle though!)
Or you could make:
A plywood with screening cage. I have a 5 foot by 3 by 4 cage like this.
Or:
You could make a plywood and glass and screen cage
Or:
A plexiglass and wood + vent air slots cage.
The cheapest of these are the Screen and Plywood cage :and: the Plywood and glass and screen cage.
I think it would cost around $100 up for my cage and about $150 up for the other one.
Decor For The Cage
Water Dragons live in tropical places near water. For this habitat you could build a pond or put out a big bowl of water, big enough to let them swim in.
The like climbing, so provide sticks or logs to climb on and bask on. Rocks to!
You can use nonpoisonous plants or plastic plants in the cage habitat.
Here’s a list of nonpoisonous plants for water dragons:
ABELIA (Abelia grandiflora)
AFRICAN VIOLET (Saintpaulia ionantha)
SWEET ALYSSUM (Allyssum sp.)
ASPERAGUS FERN (Asperagus setaceus plumosus)
ASTER (Aster sp.)
BABY TEARS (Helxine soleirolii)
BIRD'S NEST FERN (Asplenium nidus)
BOSTON FERN (Nephrolepsis exalta)
BOTTLE BRUSH (Callistemom sp.)
BOUGANVlLLEA (Bouganvillea sp.)
BRlDAL VElL (Tripogandra multiflora)
BROMELIADS (Aechmea; Bilbergia; Cryptanthus; Vriesia, etc.)
CACTUS, SPINELESS (Astrophytum)
CAMELLIA (Camellia japonica)
COLEUS (Coleus sp.)
CORN PLANT (Dracaena fragrans)
CREEPING CHARLIE (Pilea nummulariifolia)*
CROTON (Codiaeum SP.)
DRACAENA (Dracaena SP.)
EMERALD RIPPLE (Peperomia caperata)
EUGENIA (Eugenia sp.)
FICUS TREE
FUSCHIA (Fuschia)
GERANIUM (Pelargonium sp.)
HEN AND CHICKS SUCCULENT (Echeveria imbricata)
HIBISCUS (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
HOYA (Hoya exotica)
ICEPLANT (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum)
IMPATIENS (Impatiens)
JADE PLANT (Crassula argentea)
JAPANESE ARALIA (Fatsia japonica)
JASMINE (Jasrninum officinale; J. grandiflorum)
LAVENDER (Lavandula officinalis)
MARIGOLD (Calendula offcinalis)
MONKEY PLANT (Ruellia makoyana)
MOTHER OF PEARL (Graptopetalum paraguayense)
NATAL PLUM (Carissa grandiflora)
PAINTED NETTLE (Coleus)
PALMS (Areca sp.)
PAMPAS GRASS (Cortaderia selloana)
PARLOR PALM (Chamaedorea elegans)
PEPEROMIA (Peperomia caperata)
PETUNIA (Petunia)
PHOENIX (Phoenix roebelenii)
PIGGYBACK PLANT (Tolmiea menziesii)
PILEA (Pilea sp.)
PINK POLKA-DOT PLANT (Hypoestes sanguinolenta)
PONYTAIL PLANT (Beaucarnea recurvata)
PRAYER PLANT (Maranta leuconeura)
PURPLE PASSION; PURPLE VELVET (Gynura aurantiaca)
SPIDER PLANT (Chlorophytum comosum)
STAGHORN FERN (Platycerium bifurcatum)
SWEDISH IVY (Plectranthus australis)
TREE MALLOW (Lavatera assurgentiflora)
UMBRELLA PLANT (Eriogonum umbrellum)#
VELVET PLANT (Gynura aurantiaca)
WANDERING JEW (Tradescantia albiflora); and (Zebrina pendula)
WARNECKII (Dracaena deremensis)
WAX PLANT (Hoya exotica)
ZEBRA PLANT (Calathea zebrina)
ZINNIAS (Zinnia sp.)
Here’s a list of Toxic Plants that should never come into contact with the lizard: (This is long!)
ACOCANTHERA fruit and flowers
ACONITE (Monkshood) roots, flowers and leaves and seeds
AMARYLLIS (A. belladonna) bulbs contain alkaloids, stem, flower parts
AMSINCKIA (Tarweed) foliage, seeds
ANENOME (Wildflower) whole plant
ANGEL TRUMPET TREE (Datura arborra) flowers and leaves
APPLE seeds only (if crushed)
APRICOT PITS inner seed dangerous
ATROPA BELLADONNA all parts, especially black berries
AUTUMN CROCUS bulbs
AVOCADO foliage
AZALEAS all parts are fatal!
BALSAM PEAR seeds, outer rind of fruit
BANEBERRY (Doll's Eyes) red or white berries, roots and foliage
BEACH PEA all
BETEL NUT PALM all
BELLADONNA all
BIRD OF PARADISE foliage, flowers, seeds
BITTERSWEET berries
BLACK LOCUST bark, sprouts and foliage
BLEEDING HEART flower, foliage and roots
BLUEBONNETS all
BLUE FLAG (Iris) bulbs
BLUE-GREEN ALGAE some forms are toxic
BLOODROOT all
BOTTLEBRUSH flowers
BOXWOOD all
BUCKEYE HORSE CHESTNUT sprouts and nuts
BUCKTHORN fruit, bard
BUTTERCUP all
CALADIUM all
CALLA LILY all
CARDINAL FLOWER all
CAROLINA JESSAMINE foliage, flowers and sap
CASSAVA roots
CASTOR BEAN (castor oil) uncooked beans
CHALICE VINE (Trumpet vine) all
CHERRY bark, twig, leaves, seed pits
CHERRY LAUREL foliage and flowers
CHINA BERRY TREE berries
CHRISTMAS BERRY berries
CHRISTMAS CACTUS (Euphorbia) entire plant
CHRISTMAS CANDLE sap
CHRISTMAS ROSE foliage and flowers
COLUMBINE foliage, flowers and seeds
COMMON PRIVET foliage and berries
CORAL PLANT all parts
CROCUS bulbs
CROTON foliage, shoot
CYCLAMEN foliage, stems and flowers
DAFFODIL bulbs, foliage, flowers and pods
DAPHNE berries
DATURA (Jimson weed) leaves, seeds
DEADLY AMANITA all
DEADLY NIGHTSHADE foliage, unripe fruit, sprouts
DEATH CAMAS all
DEATH CAP MUSHROOM all
DELPHINIUM all
DEIFFENBACHIA (Dumbcane) all
DESTROYING ANGEL (Death cap) all
DOGWOOD fruit mildly toxic
DUMBCANE (Dieffenbachia) all
DUTCHMAN'S BREECHES foliage and roots
EGGPLANT all but the fruit
ELDERBERRY foliage, bark and shoots
ELEPHANT EARS (Taro) leaves, stem
ENGLISH IVY leaves, berries very poisonous
EQUISETUM all
EUPHORBIA (spurge(s)) foliage, flowers sap
FALSE HELLEBORE all parts
FALSE HENBANE all
FIDDLENECK (Senecio) all
FLY AGARIC (amanita, death cap) all
FOUR O'CLOCK all
FOXGLOVE leaves, seeds and flowers
GELSEMIUM all
GHOSTWEED all
GOLDEN CHAIN (Laburnum) all
HEMLOCK ROOTS (poison & water) all
HENBANE all
HOLLY, English and American foliage, berries
HORSE CHESTNUT all parts
HORSETAIL REED (Equisetum)all
HYACINTH bulbs, foliage and flowers
HYDRANGEA all parts
INDIAN TURNIP (Jack-in-the-pulpit) all
IMPATIENS (Touch-me-not) all
IRIS (Blue flag) all
IVY (all forms) foliage, fruit
JACK-IN-THE-PULPIT all
JASMINE foliage, flowers, sap
JASMINE, STAR foliate, flowers
JATROPHA seeds, sap
JAVA BEAN uncooked bean
JERUSALEM CHERRY berries and foliage
JESSAMINE berries
JIMSON WEED (Thorn apple) foliage, flowers, seed pods
JOHNSON GRASS all
JUNIPER needles, stems, berries
LABURNUM all
LAMBKILL (Sheep laurel) all
LANTANA CAMARA foliage, flowers, esp. berries
LARKSPUR all parts
LAUREL all parts
LILY OF THE VALLEY all parts, including water
LIMA BEAN (java bean) uncooked bean
LOBELIA all parts
LOCOWEED all
LOCUST(S) all
LORDS AND LADIES (cuckoopint) all
LUPINE esp. seeds, pods foliage
MACHINEEL all
MARIJUANA all parts
MAY APPLE all
MESCAL (BEAN) seed; all parts may be toxic
MILKWEED foliage
MISTLETOE foliage and berries
MOCCASIN FLOWER foliage, flowers
MOCK ORANGE fruit
MONKSHOOD entire plant, including roots
MOODSEED berries
MORNING GLORY all
MOUNTAIN LAUREL young leaves, shoots
MUSHROOMS (some wild forms) caps, stems
NARCISSUS (Paper-white) bulbs, flowers
NATAL CHERRY berries, foliage
NECTARINE SEED inner pit only
NICOTINE (tree, bush, flowering) foliage, flowers
NIGHTSHADES all parts, esp. unripe fruit
OAK TREES acorn, foliage
OLEANDER all
PEACH PIT inner seed
PEAR seeds
PENNYROYAL foliage, flowers
PEONY foliage, flowers
PERIWINKLE all
PHILODENDRON (some species) all parts
PINKS all
PLUMS foliage, inner seed
POINSETTIA leaves, flowers and sap
POISON HEMLOCK foliage, seeds
POISON IVY foliage, fruit, sap
POISON OAK foliage, fruit, sap
POISON SUMAC foliage, fruit, sap
POKEWOOD / POKECHERRY roots, fruits
POPPY (except California) all
POTATO eyes, shoots, raw foliage
RIVET all
REDWOOD resinoids, leached wet wood
RHODODENDRON all parts are fatal!
RHUBARB foliage, uncooked stems
ROSARY PEAS foliage, flowers, pods
ROSEMARY foliage in some species
RUSSIAN THISTLE foliage, flowers
SAGE foliage in some species
SALMONBERRY foliage, fruit
SCARLET PIMPERNEL foliage, flowers, fruit
SCOTCH BROOM seeds
SENECIO ("fiddle neck") all
SKUNK CABBAGE all
SNAPDRAGON foliage, flowers
SNOWDROP all
SNOW-ON-THE-MOUNTAIN (Ghostweed) all
SPANISH BAYONET foliage, flowers
STAR JASMINE foliage, flowers
SQUIRREL CORN foliage, flowers, seeds
SUDAN GRASS all
STAR OF BETHLEHEM foliage, flowers
SUNDEW foliage
SWEET PEA stemps, seeds and fruit
TANSY foliage, flowers
TARO (Elephant ears) foliage
TARWEED foliage, seeds
THORN APPLE flowers, foliage, pods
TIGER LILY foliage, flowers, seed pods
TOAD FLAX foliage
TOBACCO leaves
TOMATO PLANT foliage, vines
TOUCH-ME-NOT all
TOYON BERRY berries
TREE OF HEAVEN foliage and flowering parts
TRILLIUM foliage
TRUMPET VINE all
TULIP all
VENUS FLYTRAP all
VERBENA foliage, flowers
VETCH (several forms) seeds and pods
VIRGINIA CREEPER sap, foliage, seed pods
WATER HEMLOCK roots, foliage
WILDFLOWER leaves, flowers
WILD PARSNIP underground roots, foliage
WISTERIA all
YAM BEAN roots, immature pods
YELLOW STAR THISTLE foliage, flowers
YEW (all varieties) foliage, needles, seeds
Lighting And Heating
I have never tried heating in my water dragons cage. I usually just turn on their UV lights. And I usually have the whole house at room temperature- and they seem to be fine.
You could use heating if your house is cold or if you want to provided additional heat. Basking lights are fine, as they like to bask.
The lighting I use is Fluorescent/ full spectrum lights- These provide UVB and UVA- essential ultra violet light. These lights help the lizards bones grow. But they have minimal heat. But they work fine with room temperature heat.
Substrate
You can use many types of flooring/bedding.
Gravel: Not the best stuff. Very hard to wash, and if your lizard ingests it- your going to have trouble!
Bark: Also not the best stuff as you can get tiny little bugs in it. Very, Very Yucky! And Youcky for your lizards to have as well.
Sand: It sticks to heir bodies when they get out of the water, and if ingested can cause problems!!!
Leaf Litter: Never tried it, but it might get bugs.
Reptile Grass: Nice stuff! Can be washed and reused.
Paper: It works, but does not look nice, and I don’t think the lizards like it.
Plain Carpet: One of my own ideas. Works fine and well. Many colors. And you can wipe it off or put it in the wash.
Tiles: Anyone ever think of this? Well it works!!! Best stuff.
Climate
Climate for the water dragons is humid and warm. The temperature should be about 80 - 82 degrees, rising to 90 - 95 degrees under the basking light.
Feeding
Water Dragons are omnivores lizards. They eat meat and veggies + fruit!
Hand feeding: You just pick up a cricket, worm, bug, with your free hand and pick up the lizard. Put the food hand where the lizard can get it, and usually they eat. If you don’t succeed try again. Try everyday if you have to- sooner or later she/he will eat. It is best you get a hatchling at 3 months to 4 months because the younger the better tamed they will be later on.
Don’t just toss a handful of crickets in the cage! This is dangerous to the lizard and it’s health! The crickets an bite the lizard for food, and when they die if the lizard does not eat them, they can rot and little tiny bugs will make your lizard cage yucky! And I mean Yucky! They get under everything and when you discover them, you’ll have to disinfect the whole cage! Not the best job in the world.
Feed every day for small dragons, and then every other day when grown.
Safe Food List
Alfalfa
Apple
Avocado
Bran cereals
Berries- straw, blue, elder...etc.
Beans- including leaves and steams
Bok Choy
Broccoli- leaves and stems
Clover leaves and blossoms
Cabbage
Crickets
Dandelions- not stems
Escarole
Grated carrot, beets,etc..
Grain Breads
Grated squash
Greens- turnip,collard,etc..
Hibiscus blooms and leaves
Leaf lettuces- dark types
Melons
Nasturtiums
Okra
Papaya
Peaches
Pear
Romaine
Rose Petals
Rice
Tofu and Soybean product
Tomatoes
Water
As I said before- you can install a pond (for big adults) or you can put in a big water container- that they can swim in.
You should change the water once a day or if it has been pooped in (Water Dragons love to poop in water!) more than once.
Ailments
Ok, if you want to know all about your lizards health- you better get a book about it.
I can write a little bit about the most common of the ailments of Water Dragons.
Nose Injuries: This happens when your lizard tries to get out of it’s cage. It will bloody it’s nose again and again against the glass- unless stopped! You can put up a piece of paper. This might work- but also might not. Also you should apply Polysporian to the nose. You can go to Got Snout Trouble for more info.
Mouth Rot: identified when you open the mouth and see cheesy like substance on the teeth and gums. You should get to a Vet if this happens. Or yu can swab the area with Betadine frequently.
Tail Breaks: My Water Dragon had a run in with this problem one day when his tail got stuck and he yanked it free. To make a long story short- after several months I decided to cut the broken area off- and did so. This is not cruelty to animals as I saved my lizards tail. This is the end of the tale about Puck. I was simply helping my hurt pet. But I would have gone to the vet, so please go to the vet.
The Vet
You should get a phone number of a vet in your area just in case anything happens to your lizard. Look in your phone book right now, and get the number of your local vet (make sure they deal with reptiles). Get the number and put it right beside the telephone or tack it to a bulletin board beside there. You will thank yourself later (and maybe me :) when your Water dragon looks sick and you don’t have to go leafing through The Yellow Pages to do it.
Got Snout Trouble?
This is the most common ailment of Water Dragons. Thy just rub their noses or snouts against he glass and in a matter of days they have a nasty cut. This can be treated by putting up a barrier in the cage and or putting color full paper up. If this does not work you should duct tape a towel around the inside of the cage, this prevents the cut from getting much worse.
You should put some nice hand cream or Penaton (which is made for human baby bottoms!) on the cut.
Breeding Water Dragons
You need a male and female dragon.Adjust the light to 10 hours of daylight for at least 2 months during the winter season. The day temperature should be about 80 and the night about 70. They will not eat much, but don’t worry as this is part of the breeding. You will also notice a lot of head bobbing and arm waving, and chasing. You might also notice some bites on the crest- don’t worry about this ether. For the breeding to occur the male will chase the female until he catches her and she gives in. Then the female will allow the male hold the female nuchal crest. The female will then raise the tail in order for copulation to occur. Sometimes the male will be a bit rough. Separate the females from the males prior to breeding.
Sexing
Go to males female section to read about what the males look like and what the females look like.
How Old?
You will know how old your dragon is by the lengths.
Hatchling- 5 - 6in
6 months- 7 - 9in
12 months- 10 - 12in
18 months- 16 - 18in
24 months-female- 22 - 26in
24-male- 22 - 28in
If you think your dragon is small for it’s age take into accounts of poor food habits, lighting, heating, and housing.
Eggs
Once gravid the female lay eggs about 2 months after breeding. During the breeding season females lay one clutch each month for 5- 6 months.
They dig a hole and lay the eggs.
Dig up the eggs carefully.Don’t turn them! Keep the eggs in the same position in which they were laid. Place the eggs in a container of moist vermiculite. Bury the eggs leaving one-third exposed. Cover the eggs then with moss and place container in incubator. You can use a hovabator. maintain the incubator at 84 - 85. Humidity should be 100 %. Mist the moss each day. It takes 60 - 70 days till the eggs hatch. The eggs will double their size during incubating.
Hatchling
Sexing:It is hard to tell the difference between males water dragons and females- as both have female features while they are young. Small crest on the back of the neck, small spikes running down their back to their tails. the underside of the legs have femoral pores, On young dragons they are usually small and smooth and white. Males when they are older have a brown spot in each femoral pore.
Feeding: You can feed baby dragons baby crickets and baby food (adult water dragons love baby food to!). remember to feed hatchlings baby crickets. For a adult cricket can be choked on. You can also fed them baby king worms. You should feed hatchlings every day.
Water: Provide a nice dish of water. Make sure it is not to deep! Keep it clean too.
Housing: Keep the babies in a small tank. Keep the cage at a warm temperature. And provided room and sticks for the little guys to leap and jump on.
Males
Males have a larger and wider head then females
The crest on the neck should have large spikes.
Femoral pores are bumpy and have brown dots in them.
Body in a triangle shape.
Females
Femoral pores are white and smooth.
Body shaped in a pear shape.
Smaller than a male.
Questions & Answers
I have thought up some questions that people might ask- so here goes! :)
Q’s & A’s:
1. Q: What do I feed a Water Dragon????!
A: Baby water dragons eat- crickets, small worms (red wigglers will do fine), baby food, bits of chopped up orange, pear, peach...etc. If you want a whole list, I have one at the end of the web site - with other knickknacks.
2. Q: What is the temperature for a dragons cage?
A: Some people (like me) don’t have a temperature in the cage. They just leave the cage at room temperature. Some people may disagree with this, but I think it is the best thing for my lizard. But if you want to spend a couple of dollars more (like $100 or more) you can buy a nice temperature set up for your water dragon.
3. Q: How old do Water Dragons get?
A: Well they can last years or decades. But the average age of the water dragon is 15 - 17 years.
4. Q: How long does a Water Dragon Get?
A: They can get up to a meter or more. There is no real male/female lengths.
5. Q: What do Water Dragons look like?
A: Visit my WD gallery to see pictures of Puck and Little Guy, my water dragons (not here yet soon to come!:) or go
to a search engine like Google and look up: water Dragon Pictures. Your sure to find some!
6. Q: Help! My water dragon looks sick!
A: Go to a vet! As soon as you see something wrong with your animal. Before you get your dragon you should have a reptile vet and phone number. This is very handy- because if your water dragon looks like it’s dying- your not going to be searching through a phone book for a number.
7. Q: What should the cage have in it?
A: You should have a variety of plastic or live plants in it as well as nice big basking rocks, tree limbs to climb on, and a nice pool of water for them to bathe, drink, and poop in.
8. Q: What should the set up be?
A: A Tropical/Arboreal setup is the perfect setup and most appreciated from dragon.
Dragon Tips
-Never go by hot dishwater with your dragon, they will want to jump in it.
- If you bring up your dragon eating oranges they can mistake things that are orange for oranges and eat them.
- Dragons like going under things especially at night.
- If you handle your dragon often, clip their claws.
- Don’t let your dragon poop on your favorite couch.
- Don’t let your dragon stay on your bed all day, you find out when you go to bed that night.
- Don’t let your dragon go under your computer monitor.
- Baby dragons can run fast, so hang onto them!
- Dragons might like trying out your house plant as a toilet.
- They like climbing up your back, but make sure your back is not bare.
- Spend quality time with your dragon.
- Don’t wave a pencil at a dragon, they will try to eat it.
- Don’t put your dragon next to a low soup bowl.
- Don’t let your dragon near freshly frosted cake.
- Don’t leave small rocks near them. They will eat them!
- Don’t leave your lizard alone, they will and can run away.
- Don’t let your WD on the bed, without telling people not to jump on it first.
- Don’t dance with your lizard.
- Don’t put a cricket on your hand and then have the lizard eat off it. the result is you having your hand torn apart.
- To subscribe to the Water Dragon Mailing List send an e-mail to listserv@listserv.uoguelph.ca. Saying “ subscibe waterdragon (water dragon as one word.) with your full name afterwards. I am subscribed to the Water Dragon List (where your questions will be answered and you can answer others questions), I am listed there as Max, look me up while you are there.
Water Dragon FAQ
- They aren't color blind.
- They can spend up to an hour under water.
- They like to eat.
- They can climb- don’t be fooled!
- They will eat anything!
How To Cut Dragon Talons
You can do this with 2 people if your dragon is not used to it.
(My dragon now loves having his claws clipped, he just sits while I do it.)
Get a pair of fingernail clippers. Have one person hold the dragon, while the other (you) clip the claws. Be careful as the dragon might move and you might take off his toe! If you do nick him, just get a shave pencil (the kind men use when they nick themselves shaving.) and gently put some on nick. This will help stop the bleeding. If you happen to take off a toe, get to a vet immediately.
Taming Training
Hold your dragon every day. This will build up confidence with the dragon. Try putting the dragon in the middle of a room. Let him wander. If he happens to go somewhere where you do not want him, take him back to the middle of the room. Do not put him back in his cage as this can be scary. Just repeat putting him in the middle of the room. Soon e will learn what places are not good to go to.
To train your dragon to poop in a certain place. Get a lid (a big one, but not to big. Big enough so the dragon can fit his whole body in it.) put some newspaper in the lid and put your dragon in it. Bring the newspaper lid where ever you go with your dragon. If you notice him starting to poop, put him in the lid. Soon he will learn just to go poop in the lid.
Humor
You Are Lizard Crazy If:
1. You kiss your lizards good night.
2. You tuck them in with a blanket.
3. You read them stories from books.
4. You ground them if they try to eat each other.
5. You treat them like royalty.
6. You spend all your money on them.
7. You call them your “kids”.
8. You shower with them.
9. You taught them to poop in the toilet.
10. You spend most of your time with a tape measure figuring out where to put a NEW tank.
11. You own 5 lizards or more.
12. You get real upset if the pet store mixes species.
13. You go to the pet store to look at lizards, even though you have some of your own.
14. You buy more than 20 crickets a week.
15. You have worms in your fridge and you don’t like fishing.
16. You are constantly out of money so you dig in the garden for Dinner.
17. You take your lizards for walks.
18. You plan to retire at as reptile zoo keeper.
19. You live with your lizards but take care of others at a zoo.
20. You consider your job Fun.
21. You are a herpetologist.
22. Your e-mail address starts with L.
23. You sleep with your lizards.
24. You consider pooping on ou to be a friendly gesture.
25. Your boyfriend thinks you spend to much time with your “kids”.
The Tao of Dragons:
1) If I don't see you... You aren't there.
(with 1 eye closed- applies to food or humans)
2)If it moves, and you can fit it in your mouth, Eat it.
3)The top dragon gets the worm.
4) Clean water is rare water. Do your business quick before anyone else
gets to it. Then make sure to scrub behind your ears in the initiated pool...
5) Glass is a thin veil across reality. It is as permeable as the air. SPLAT..OOF!
6) When in doubt, bask. It will eventually come to you.
Very Cute, eh?!
-By A good friend of mine on the Water Dragon List.
