Climbers vs. Tourist
This Thanksgiving brought unseasonably warm weather to Colorado’s Front Range. With sunny weather and holidays, two things always appear in the Garden of the Gods, climbers and tourists. I was there in my usual spot, hanging about forty feet up on North Gateway rock, soaking in the sun, and wondering just exactly how I was supposed to get around the bottom of “The Finger.” As I hung on a fairly uncomfortable hand jam, contemplating my route and the fear of falling, I listened to the tourists below as they watched. Few of the bystanders had any idea of what is involved in rock climbing. The words “crazy,” “insane,” and “idiots” drifted up from the crowds below. I will admit that I have often used the same words to describe myself as I worked a climb. But it’s a little different when the criticism comes from someone else. I don’t really mind being called names and having my intelligence insulted, I’ve been married, and I’m used to that. It was a comment from one woman that really bothered me. As she stood on the sidewalk below snapping pictures, she remarked to her companion, “I don’t think they should be allowed to climb here, there are plenty of other places for them to climb.” Her opinion burned deeply into my ears, and it took me several minutes to regain my composure and continue climbing. At first I tried to dismiss her as another “idiot tourist,” but weeks later her comment still bothers me.
For thousands of years The Garden of the Gods has been a special place to many people. Ancient Indians used to travel hundreds of miles to worship there. To rock climbers it is a magical place as well. In 1914 when Albert Ellingwood, a Colorado College professor, returned to Colorado Springs from a 3 year Rhodes scholar trip to England, he brought back the knowledge and tools of English climbing. He put his new skills to use in The Garden, establishing many classic routes that are still challenging today. Over the years scores of great climbers have put up new routes and returned to repeat old favorites. Layton Kor left his name to some of the best lines around. In many ways The Garden of the Gods is the birthplace of American rock climbing. But still the woman’s comment burns in my brain. Why should we be allowed to climb here when there are so many other places to climb? This same question probably comes up in many of the country’s greatest climbing areas, from Yosemite to Joshua Tree. In the case of Hueco Tanks, it seems the tourists have won. All climbing is now relegated to a small area with severe restrictions imposed as well. Will this trend continue until climbers are forced out of all developed tourist areas and banished to the backcountry? But what of the backcountry? Is not the future of climbing in Wilderness areas still in question with the possible Forest Service ban on fixed anchors? How long can it be until we are forced to make clandestine ascents by moonlight? Maybe I’m overreacting to an overheard comment from one “idiot tourist.” But then again, maybe the rest of the world is populated with “idiot tourists.” I could go on, tell you how we should all support The Access Fund, but that would be hypocritical. I’m not much of a supporter of any organization that wants my money. I still have too much gear I want to buy. But I will say this, if anyone threatens to limit or destroy your chance to climb, fight like hell. Somebody has to, and I’ll probably still be hanging under “The Finger” trying to figure out how I got around it last time.