For a long time, the wearing of locks or dreadlocks was exclusive to those of the Rastafarian faith. But locks have roots in Africa, which was lost to those of us who ended up on U.S. shores. Locking hair is also spoken of in the Bible. The book of Numbers speaks of ‘The Law of the Nazarite’. Part of the law says ”…no razor shall come upon his head…then he shall let the locks of his head grow.” In the book of Judges, you also get the story of Samson and his seven locks. It’s no surprise that locks take on a deep spiritual meaning for some. Locking hair should not be looked upon as a way to go against the status quo, but rather a testimonial that whatever God gave us to grow out of our heads is what we will wear.

The decision to let your hair lock may be met with ridicule from family, friends and employers. Some may even attempt to discourage it. But this move into the 21st century has brought us to a new understanding of who we are and who we want to be. It is not about revolution but evolution. We are no longer denying our heritage but embracing it!

Locking How-to

There are as many ways to lock one’s hair as there are salons, or even individuals – so much depends upon both hair type and texture and personal needs. Before you begin, ask yourself some questions: Will you visit a salon exclusively or just to have your locks started? Will you start and maintain your locks at home yourself? br> If you do plan to visit a salon to have them start and maintain your locks, ask them what products they will be using. Heavy creams and waxes can cause build-up and dandruff. These types of products are also very hard to wash out and can dull locks with continued use. Natural oils and/or a light gel are your best bets. There are also many salons making their own products with all-natural ingredients as well. Although locks can be started using no additives at all, in most cases shorter hair will usually require some sort of additive to hold.

Ask your salon how often they will groom your hair. This is another issue of debate. Some salons require you to return every two weeks for a wash and re-twist or palm roll. Other salons say to wait a month or more before the first grooming session. And still others may not wash your hair but apply some sort of anti-itch solution such as sea breeze to the scalp and then retwist or palm roll. Some locticians (stylists expert in the formation and care of locks) will tell you that to get your hair washed in the beginning hinders the locking process, and that part of the reason your hair locks is because you are not messing with it. I will not dispute this advice, but your hair also locks because you are no longer pulling it out by combing and brushing it. Your hair will lock in its own time. The process cannot be hurried or rushed.

I personally had my locks started and maintained in a salon (NAPPS: Natural African Peoples Professional Styles, in St. Louis, MO) every two weeks in the beginning. I was used to having clean hair and scalp so waiting any longer than two weeks was not ideal for me. My hair began to bud after three months at which time I took over the maintenance of my own locks, washing and conditioning with a leave-in conditioner on a weekly basis and re-twisting once a month. I will also note that conditioning the hair will soften the hair and make the locking process take longer. But nevertheless the hair will lock.

Finger twisting: Hair should be long enough to be twisted around your finger. A little more than half an inch is usually needed. After hair is washed and deep conditioned, part hair in small sections depending on how thick you want your locks to be, also taking into consideration that locks will thicken as they mature if you use this method. Adding a little gel to the section, twist it around your finger until a coil is formed and lay it into place or allow it to stick up. For a neater look metal clips can also be used to hold the twisted hair in place.

Comb Coils: Comb twisting is achieved by using a small rat-tailed comb to form coils. This is usually done by a loctician and can be done on very short hair as well. A small amount of gel is put on the section to be twisted and the comb is placed at the scalp and the hair is twisted downward using the teeth of the comb.
Both of these styles should last from two to four weeks before being redone depending on the length of the hair. Shorter hair will need to be re-twisted in about two weeks. You want to keep the hair dry between grooming sessions or you risk the twist unraveling.

Palm Rolls: At least three inches of hair is need to achieve palm rolls because the hair must be able to fit into the palms of your hands. If you tackle this method yourself, prepare for your arms to become tired from holding them over your head. Place a small amount of gel on the section to be rolled and place it between the palms of your hands and move your hands back and forth rolling the hair between them until a spiral forms.

Two-strand twists: At least two inches of hair is needed for this technique. Two-strand twisting is similar to braiding except two strands of hair are twisted together as opposed to three. Two-strand twist will look similar to a rope when done properly. You want to pull the hair gently as you twist it to ensure you get a tight lock.

Braiding: If braids are being used as a means to start locks, you want to ensure you part the hair the size you want your locks to be. If you want thin locks make sure the braids are parted small, medium for thicker locks, etc. As far as length is concerned, the hair need only be long enough for the braider to catch it.

In each case above you want the hair to be washed and deep conditioned. Braiding can be done on either wet or dry hair, as long as it is clean. If you start with wet hair you will need to sit under the dryer to allow the locks to set. After the hair is dry, spray hair and scalp with natural oil for moisture.

Copyright 2000-Reva Cox