(Article originally appeared in CanoeSite News)

For city folks and other types, you might think escaping the crowd and the beaten path is just a dream. Or, perhaps you are somewhat experienced in the weekly pilgrimage to Algonquin Park. You may even know that family camping trips to the supposed “wilderness” experience are just another well-worn odyssey to the pedestrian near-north of Ontario.

Perhaps you would like a change. Consider though, if you seek something a little more remote, be prepared for some challenges in finding your way. You may have heard the old adage that the more portages you are from the parking lot, the fewer people you will find. On the other hand, if the parking lot is not obvious, you will limit the traffic even further.

If you have an extra day or two,
consider
La Belle Province de Quebec.

Venturing beyond the familiar borders of Ontario’s most famous provincial park is a true delight and if you have an extra day or two to drive, consider exploring Quebec. With a little bit of research and the right questions, you will be surprised to find some very real wilderness experiences in La Belle Province. If you plan it right, you will not find parking lots, signs, camping control officers, or bus shuttles.

The Coulonge River is a very good first choice, with plenty of flatwater, gentle moving water, a few rapids and falls and few people. You will experience long sections of current in which you can sit back and relax, letting the river push you along. Along these quiet stretches, keep one eye open in case the river takes a bend. Many campsites along the way reflect the sandy nature of the river while rocky outcrops provide picturesque spots to pitch a tent, prepare a meal and enjoy a swim.

This river begins in La Verendrye Reserve, flowing south and then east to the Ottawa River. You may gain access to the river either by airplane or bush road. However, if you decide on the bush road, be prepared to drive for two-three hours in from the highway. Also, you need to plan ahead by leaving a vehicle at the end of the trip. And, expect to have to retrieve your vehicle at your starting point, after finishing the trip.

The Fish, Coulonge River, P.Q., 8/2004

Alternatively, you may select from three shuttle services in the area. Local outfitters will load you and your gear into their vehicle and take you to the start point and drop a vehicle for you at the end point. Depending on the number of trip participants and your starting point, this could cost $35+ each. Hiring a shuttle service is, by far, the best choice, saving time, wear-and-tear on your vehicle, gasoline and yourself. If you decide you would like the thrill of a fly-in, be prepared to pay more money (up to four times as much.) In addition, the bush planes can carry only one canoe and two people with gear. Thus if you have eight people in your group, the plane will have to make four round trips which is quite time-consuming. In fact, I have found that the drive-in usually takes less time than the fly-in. And, you can imagine that a three-hour drive or fly-in adds considerably to the remote experience and the solitude factor.

Try a remote wilderness experience!

However, you must be prepared with maps, gear, a fishing license and food for your trip because you will not find any stores nearby. In addition, you will not find any signs to the starting point, to the campsites or to the rapids and falls.

While you might consider this a drawback, consider the advantages. You may camp wherever you want, make as much noise or quiet as you want, fish as much as you want and relax without worrying about your neighbours.

The roads into the Coulonge are maintained year-round for the hunting business as well as for river travellers. The same is true for the two lodges that offer services such as accommodation, food and shuttle services.

Service providers
make your trip
much more fun.

Valley Ventures
Black River Inn
Esprit Rafting
Paddling Solutions Custom Maps

Also, consult
Hap Wilson’s, Rivers of the Upper Ottawa Valley,
Canadian Recreational Canoeing Association
2nd edition 2004
We can offer specialised information
on these Quebec trips:
Dumoine River
Noire River
Coulonge River
Ashuapmushuan River
Batiscan River