This page expired 6/6/01 was about Recumbents their faults and possible benifits. Over 150 links to recumbent and human powered vehicles including but not limited to lists of lists ,bikes trikes,motor assist,boats, other information pages save it while it is still here if you like it.
You have java-(script) disabled or are using web TV otherwise you probaly would be forward to a page better suited to your browser assuming that the browser detector that I copied worked. This Page is best viewed for maximum effect in Microsoft Internet Explorer 5+ with java enabled. It is a honest no hype page about HPV's, Human Powered Vehicles, recumbents.
http://www.jps.net/HPVofEarth <-- no dot com expires 6/6/01
First a little about this page. I am an amateur and this is my effort at an informational site about Human Powered vehicles, recumbents for now.
If you are looking for info on if recumbents are
fast ? ,, or how well can they go
I have 2 small sections on those ideas plus one very short
why they are banned. I am looking for dissenting views about recumbents. Most recumbent sites don't give the negative side and I would like to give you an off site dissenting view to give you as much information on both sides as I possibly can. You have to be well informed to make a well informed decision so there are just about 100 links in the
So far most of what I have found are comercial sites. Steves comments on recumbents is the most objective
so far with mine being the the only other negative so far.
I've found two less than compemntary non-commercial sites linked to each other that give some off site dissenting views,
Unfaired Recumbents and Road Bikes by
Sandiway Fong.* and with it
Is a racing recumbent really faster than an aero time trial bike or a quality road bike?
Fairings help at speeds as low as 12mph or aproxamatlly 20KPH so they might help going up hill. But they are heavy and may slow you below those speeds. On the down hill rim brakes can be scarry as to whether they are good enough to stop in a panic and they can wear out very quickly so extra attention to them is a must before the brakes wear to the point of damaging the rim.
Remember buyer beware, try to find someone or some store to let you ride a recumbent so you can form your own opinion before you buy. These are very expensive bikes $700 - $1000 for the cheap bikes.There are some bike that are less expensive but this is an example of their expense
A very good place to look for more info on HPV's is the IHPVA Source Guide in the menu page lists section
There is a must see leaning trike from Germany in the Trikes section theTripendo.
If you are looking to make a fairing look at the CoolBikes in the Fairings section, It has links to peoples bike fairings and how they made them. Or go to the WISIL page in the Links 2 lists of Links then to the HPV project Page. The more information is meant for web publications on recumbents.
The last list is for web design, like were I got the script for the 2 frame pull down menu and other scripts, and My ISP -Main One.Com - unlimited access and web space for $11.50 a month
These pictures are gathered half through magazines and books that I have and the other half through the Internet. I am claiming as a means of defense from copyright suits the idea of fair use in that no profit is made from this site and that it is meant to educate the general public through my experiences and knowledge of the subject of Human Powered Vehicles(recumbents bikes for now)on this Planet commonly referred to as Earth.
SWB Short Wheel Base bikes have the front wheel behind the pedals and generally have a 44" or less wheel base or distance between wheels|
| My bike a R40 by ATP
||A P38/F40 by Lighting
||A R84 by
|ABOUT $1000-$1500 BIKE
|| $2500-$3500 BIKES
|| A $5,000+ bike
As you can see
from the photos several bikes can have the same configuration yet look different. The three /four pictures above are all Short Wheel Base Above the Seat Stearing
MWB Medium Wheel Base
Medium wheel base bikes look a lot like SWB bikes. The only difference is that MWB
bikes have the front wheel closer to the pedals sometimes right under the pedals.This is to get some weight off the front wheel and on the back to weight over
the drive wheel and less on the front wheel which is usually smaller and more
sensitive to bumps. By getting the weight off the front wheel it uses the bikes
frame to reduce the road shock to the rider much like a LWB bike does yet retains
some of the agilitie of the SWB. The fastest flat land undrafted bike is a MWB fully faired bike. The Cheata currently holds the undrafted speed record of just over 68 MPH. This is through a 200 meter time trap with a run up and not 68 miles distance in one hour. There is a prize for the first person to travel 45 miles in one hour, a feat that seems to be a ways away.
|The current record holder
||The 1933 bike that banded
recumbents from UCI races
||Commercial version of the bike on the left|
CLWB Compact Long Wheel Base CLWB bikes have the front wheel just barly in front of the pedals and the rear wheel under a or as close to under the rider as possible with a 20" wheel usually
EASY RIDER CLWB
.......CWLB bikes started as an effort to reduce the cost of recumbents. They are not considered speed bikes but
are more for comfort at a closer to reasonable cost. These bike are not cheap their prices start around $700
and this is about as cheap as recumbents get. Recumbents are expensive generally starting around $1000
and going up fast from there. CLWB bikes are what Iíve seen in most bike shops that have recumbents .
Usually these bikes have a 16 inch front tire close to not for but in front of the pedals and a 20 inch rear wheel almost under the seat. These bikes are for casual riders and not built for
LWB Long Wheel Base
LWB bikes have 20Ē wheel in front of the pedals and 26Ē or larger rear tire behind the rider.
behind recumbents is to lower wind resistance by lowering the frontal area. LWB bikes are better able to do
this than SWB or MWB bikes because the rider isnít sitting over the front tire. This does add weight and on
bicycles built for speed weight is a hindrance and the longer the wheel base the larger the turning radius but
the advantage is lower profile and therefore lower wind resistance helping to increase speed. Less weight on the smaller front wheel helps reduce rolling resistance. The first bike to go over 65mph through a 200 yard time trap was the long wheel base recumbent in the left mouseover |
|Vision R40 LWB USS
||VISION R40 LWB ASS
||RYAN LWB USS Mesh seat|
Tricycles look very cool but they come with their own set of problems and are generally alot more expensive. One of the problems with trikes is that in a sharpe turn under any speed they have a tendency to flip or at least lift the wheel on the inside of the turn possible flipping to the outside of the turn. There is at least one trike the Tripendo from Germany that addresses this in that its wheels lean with the trike.
Most trikes with two front wheels that steer and one rear drive wheel. This is not always the case as most parapalegic trikes come with two rear wheels and the front wheel drives and steers. THe last trike picture here is one of a front wheel drive rear wheel steering trike. One of the problems I've read about those type trikes is that the rear wheel steers into what the front steers away from.
Short Wheel Base bike
Medium Wheel Base bike
Compact Long Wheel Base bike
Long Wheel Base bike
Slang for recumbent
||Diamond Frame bikes are conventional bikes
||Human Powered Vehicle this is anything that is powered by a human from bikes, or boats, to skates, or skis
ASS / OSS
Above or Over The Seat Stearing
Self expainitory the handle bar is located above the seat generally at chest level.
||Under the Seat Stearing
Self expainitory again. The handle bar is located Under the seat.
Is a seat that is more like a lawn chair in that it has a sling/mesh seat as opposed to a hard seat with cushions
|| These are generally a fiberglass seat with some foam pad
I hope that this is of some value |
Please go through the rest of the this web site for more imformation
about thier problems etcetera.
This section will evetually be about fairings. How I have made mine. How I think others have made theirs. Where I think your best effort should be put and lots of pictures of mine and other peoples fairings.
Below are some pictures of fairings that I've gathered. #1-5 are of my past and present bikes. I only have one bike now and that is #5 which is also #4 but the fairing in #5 I've made and those in #4 are
Zipper fairings. The one on the front of the bike is comercial the one on top is my own idea. #1-3 are the same bike with different fairings on it, the bike was in an accident its repacement that was made in school shop was stolen! I have learned though reading and personal experience that the rear fairing is more important than the front fairing as far as speed is concerned. The rear is were the drag is created. It is because of this that many commercial recumbents in Europe have rear fairings "tail cones?" that add lockable storage and speed. #6 & 7 are examples of that.
The above are the few pictures I have of my bikes. The
#5 pictures are of the bike I now own and use as primary Transportation a Vision R40 by
Alterative TransPortation ATP. The ones before that,
1-3, are from a bike company that has gone out of business. That bike was stolen from me. It was heaver yet faster because it had an intermediate gear cluster that gave it a gear range of 20 gear inches to 252 gear inches American or 1.6 meters to 20.3 meters European. It was with this bike that I really found out how much the rear fairing mattered. It was not until I added the rear aero dynamics that the bike really increased its speed.
#5 Mouse over Mouse off is the rear of my bike now. Mouse off shows the rear open. It lost some storage spce compared to the baskets I had but it added a space to place cool looking stickers. It was made with coroplast™ and styrofoam. The coroplast doesn't bend much and was very difficult to bend into a shape I liked at the end so I used styrofoam and carved it to a shape that I could live with.
#7 are the tails of some european bikes. Obviously those look alot better than my bikes ever did and they better they cost more and are production bikes. The next one
#8 is the current 200 meter record holded the Cheeta. The mouse over link leads to there site
#9 & #10 are typical race bikes
The bike in picture #1 was one of my first attempts and the basis of the way I made the next three fairings and influence in the last one
#4. It was made using coroplast as the backbone and what held it away from me and to the bike. In 1-3 the fairing itself was made from styrofoam blocks that were glued together and then sanded to the shape I wanted. After the shaped the styrofoam was covered with model airplane covering like monocoat. The fairing in
#4 used the support from the zipper fairing to hold the fairing. The majority of the fairing is made with coroplast with a little styrofoam for shape and then covered with model airplane covering to make it uniform color. The first three cost about $30-50 dollars in materials # 4 because it uses a zipper fairing support cost considerably more but the fairing itself ( what you see in the picture ) cost about $30-$50.
You may be asking yourself if I already had a very nice commercial fairing why did I make one? The reason was because my bike is my primary form of transportation and I wanted to be able to ride in the rain and the commercial one was just not adaptable to that end. Though not pictured here yet #4 has been able to do just that.
Below are a few of the many great site discribing various fairings the best in this list is the WISIL site which is a link to other sites on various recumbent type things . If you have not visited it yet it is a must see if these things interest you.
http://www.mcs.net/~gkpsol/fairingseminar.html A coroplast fairing constrution page
http://www.wisil.recumbents.com/hpvpfair.htm coroplast fairing w/zipper front from midwest
M5 w/coroplast lots of detail lots of pictures
GreenspeedTrike fiberglass fairing
WISIL recumbent project page a must see
http://www.mcs.net/~gkpsol/coolbikes.htmlcool bik pictures and links
http://www.mcs.net/~gkpsol/workshop.html Chicago recumbent fairing work shop
The wheel covers that I have experience with are the UNI ? wheel covers that have an aluminum hoop that a cloth cover is stretched and tightened over and the ones that I now have on my bike made from balsa wood hoops and monocoat ,a model airplane covering.
With the covers with aluminum hoops the hoops are attached to the wheel with clips after the cover is stretched over them . In my experience the hoop had a tendency to jump off the clips if a big bump in the road was hit . This more than once became a big annoyance.
The wheel covers on my bike now are home made using 1/8" balsa wood sections carved in the shape of the rim that they are going on then glued together overlapping the sections to form the hoop .One hoop each side each side glued to the other side with the scapes of balsa left over from caving the shapes needed for the hoops . The hoops are more than one layer of balsa glued together overlaping so that the grain of the wood goes in a diffent direction than the layer its glued to. After the hoops were glued together and dry I glue the two opposing "hoops together through the spokes with scrape pieces of balsa ironed on the monocoat and srank it tight. The picture gives you a little idea of how it is done. I've had less trouble with these than with the ones with the aluminum hoops. Not that I have not had trouble with these but with these the balsa wood has never left the wheel and when the momocoat separated from the balsa I could easly take it completly off.
||This Image is old but I hope that you can see what I have done.
The balsa that I will use to iron the model airplane covering to is in front with one small portion cut out of a 3x12x1/8 piece of balsa. This is teadious and so is glueing the pieces together to make the rim but for me it has worked out nicely.
I hope that the picture has some value. One Balsawood "rim strip" is on the wheel and part of the other side can be seen in front cut out of the 3x12x1/8 balsawood. There are alot of small arcs that are glued together to make the whole circle that the model airplane covering will be ironed to. The short strips were cut using the rim as a template.
There are problems with everything and this is no exception . these balsa hoops after they are glued together on the wheel they can not be easily removed and placed on another wheel unlike "UNI" wheel covers with the aluminum hoops and clips. Those wheel covers can easily be removed except at the sprockets were you need to remove the freewheel/ to remove the wheel cover. I have been pleased with the home made covers that I've made. I've heard of others that instead of making balsa wood hoops like I did they just glued the model air plane covering directly to the rim of the wheel. If this is done the brakes must be very carefully adjusted so that they don't come in contact with the cover or they will rip it off when the brakes are applied.
A must see site listed in the drop down Fairing links above is the
Wisil wheel cover site. I think that thiers is easier and cleaner although I have not tried to make one yet
A fine example of a cover made with plastic that I think would be easier to make, better and cheaper than my balsa wood and Monocoat covers. The wire hoop with the clips at that page is just like the UNI wheel covers that I had and therefore are likely to have the same problems
The front fender mud guard was made with aluminum flashing cut and shaped then taped to the forks and covered with model airplane covering . The model airplane covering wasn't necessary I used clear packing tape and left it bare for a time.
The rear fender is commercial fender with some balsa wood strips along the bottom glued to the fender then moldel airplane covering was attached to it. These add nothing but looks and a cheap mud guard in front
More Fairing Pictures
Fairings are what really make recumbent bikes and bikes in general go fast The real speed advantage is gained with the rear fairing because it is the turbulance in the back that add the drag on the bike
This has been known for quite some time but modern race rules are about races between people and not machines. There are only a few commercial bikes that I know that have fairings as bike specific options,the F40 by
kingcycle and the interceptor by
Rotator The F40 is a lighting P38 with a
Zipper type fairing and cloth body .The Kingcycle is fiberglass front and rear with the rear fairing being lockable .
kingcycle & trunk
||Lighting F40 |
I have made a few fairings for my bikes . The best so far was this
It was made out of coropast, a corogated plastic ,styrofoam and monocoat, a model airplane covering. I called it the lead sled everyone else called it the Shark.It was in an accident and its replacement that I made in the college metals shop was stollen! Both were very fast bikes I believe becuse they had an intemediate gear that gave then an extremly wide range of gears.
Now I have a
Zipper fairing That I know is not as fast or even close to as fast as the previous bike.
I plan to make a new fairing for the front but I must emphasize that it is the rear fairing that will gain you the most speed.
Wheelcovers are the best advantage for weight / cost / time as far as my experience shows . I gained 2.5 MPH average speed with the addition of the wheel covers . The "fairing" over the front wheel is really a fender/mudguard and does not help with speed IMHO . It was made with aluminum flashing shaped and taped together . Then taped to the front forks and covered with monocote. I've made others that were made out of coroplast, styrofoam and monocoat that carried a light . These add a certain look to the bike like fairings in general but I don't believe that they add any speed advantage. They are neat mudguards though. The rear fairing/fender/mudguard was made out of a commercial bike mudguard with balsa wood strips glued to it to hold the monocoat in place
I have hade marginally good results with Styrofoam blocks that can easily be carved and sanded to the shape that I desired. These blocks were first glued to something ,generally coroplast, then shaped. After I was satisfied with the shape it was covered with model airplane covering ,monocoator or similar. A great deal of care must be taken when applying the monocoat because the styrofoam melts easly . You could instead of monocoat use a fiberglass type covering but again styrofoam melts easly and the right epoxy is nessesary.
| For those of you in Sacramento Here is were I purchased my recumbent A Vision R40. It was at the "Bike Shop" on the corner of San Jaun and Winding Way behind the Dairy Queen. At 4719 San Jaun at the red arrow on the map. Phone # 961-9646 open 7 days a week.|
MapQuest to get directions to there from where ever you are.
- To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.
- Just because I believe there is a conspiracy doesn't mean there isn't one
- Recycle and bicycle the planet you save may be your own.
- Samuel Clements said Get a bike you won't regret it, if you live !
- My empire for an editor.