Note: This information is believed to be correct. Any or all of this could change at any time without warning. We cannot represent that we have the most up-to-date information on any of these topics. This is simply what we found during our own travel and experience.
Making Your Arrangements for Travel
Air Fare
If you adopting, you may not have a lot of notice for your first travel date. This means that you will be paying a premium price for your ticket. Consider these options:Travel Guides and Language Helps
Until very recently, travel to the Baltic States (Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania) was unusual. It is difficult to find a good travel guide that is up-to-date because these nations are changing very rapidly. Here are some that we used and found to be helpful.
You may also want to purchase a tourist guide from one of the many newsstands. "Riga in Your Pocket" is a good one.
If you are working through The Open Door for your adoption, you may be invited to stay at one of Pastor Petr's apartments. Some families in our program have chosen to stay in a hotel over the apartment. From our experience, living in the apartment provided a way to live more like a family - precisely what you social worker wants to see. Furthermore, it allowed us to economize because we did not have to eat at restaurants for all of our meals. While restaurant dining can be very expensive in Riga, food purchased at a grocery store is pretty inexpensive compared to US prices. Also, Petr charged a very reasonable daily rate for staying in the apartment, less than half of the daily rate at the Radisson.
Petr's Riga Apartment As you drive up to the apartment you may be a little scared. The buildings that make up this apartment complex are a sad mustard yellow, the paint is peeling, and there is a distinctly unpleasant odor in the stairwell. However, it's worth braving the smell and the Soviet-style landscape. Petr has renovated this apartment beautifully to what is commonly referred to as Euro Standard. It has beautifully restored wood floors, newly plastered walls, fully tiled bathroom with Western facilities, hi-speed Internet access, cable television, phone, and full kitchen.
The apartment is located on opposite side of the Daugava river from Old Town (Vecriga) and the city proper. It is about a 40 minute walk to Old Town or 10 minute ride by tram. Within walking distance are three critical locations: (1) Veikals Rits - a tiny grocery store, (2) Drogas - a chaiin drug store like Eckerd, and (3) the stop for tram #10. Tram #10 takes you to the Bowling Center, the Radisson, Old Riga, Stockmann (a Macy's style department store), and the city market.
We found the apartment to be very comfortable. It is small, probably less than 1,000 square feet. However, the four of us never felt cramped or on top of each other. The amply secure front door opens onto a long hallway. The first door on the left is the bathroom with shower, basin, commode, hair dryer and towel warmer. The second door is the kitchen. Petr has outfitted the kitchen with a convection oven, small microwave oven, four-eye electric range, toaster, and electric kettle. There is plenty of cabinet space and a table for four. Although the fridge is small, it's big enough for everything you'll need over a two week stay. You'll also find plenty of flatware and dishes. The hall then opens into the main living room which has a sofa (converts to a double bed), two big arm chairs, TV, DVD player, phone, and Internet connection. The last room is the bedroom which has a queen size bed and large armoire.
Important Note: The DVD player will not play American (Region 1) DVDs. It plays only PAL format media. Do not bring your own DVDs unless you are also bringing your own player.
The apartment is heated by radiator (there is one in each room). We were very comfortable with the temperature and could easily regulate it with the radiators and by opening windows.
Petr has also supplied guests with an iron, steamer, ironing board, and vacuum.
The apartment does not have any laundry facilities. Ask you facilitator or driver about options for laundry.
Petr's Ogre Apartment We did not stay in the Ogre apartment, but we've heard that it is very comfortable and much larger than the Riga apartment. The downside is that there is not much to do in Ogre. One can take the inexpensive commuter train into Riga.
Hotels If this is not an option for you, you will find that Riga has many hotels. Probably the most popular hotel is the Radisson. This hotel sports the only indoor swimming pool in Riga. It is very close to Old Town (but I'd take the tram rather than walk) and has a restaurant, spa, and casino. However, the cost is about $276 per night.
Lilija Plus Real Estate Agency. On our last trip to Riga, we stayed in an Old Town apartment on Kaleju street. The apartment was rented to us by the Lilija Plus Agency, and it was quite large (by Euro standards) and very comfortable. The rate was 80 EUR per day or roughly $120 (plus a 100 EUR security deposit returned at checkout). Our apartment had two separate bedrooms with queen sized beds, a living room with satellite television, phone, kitchen, dining area, and bathroom (with shower, bath tub and washing machine). It's locating in Old Town is ideal, begin close to Stockmanm, Centrs, tram stops, and loads of restaurants. Additionally, the U.S. embassy, Latvian passport authority, and physician are all within easy walking distance or tram ride. The owner, Marianna Turova, was pleasant to deal with, speaking very good English.
Check with your airline to make sure you completely understand the restrictions on baggage weight and girth. Remember that each airline you use may have a different requirement. We flew Delta and Czech Air on our first trip, and their weight allowance is 70 pounds per bag, two checked bags per person. Here are some tips for you:
While you will be able to purchase many American products in Riga, you may find that they are extravagantly expensive. So, it's likely that you'll discover some new Latvian products to substitute for the ones you know. If this bothers you, go ahead and bring what you'll need. Here are some things that we discovered.
Some people have been a little confused and/or offended by the idea of giving gifts to people who are otherwise paid to help with the adoption. Get over your problems and recognize that relationship building is extremely important to the adoption process. Giving inexpensive gifts is a cultural expectation in Latvia. It shows that you respect the person who is helping you and that you appreciate what they are doing.
Your adoption agency will give you specific suggestions on what to buy for gifts and to whom they should go. Here are some examples of what we gave on our first trip:
Plug adapters. Latvia uses a different plug than we do. You can purchase the appropriate plug separately or as part of a kit of many plugs. If you plan to travel widely throughout Europe, Asia, Africa and the United Kingdom, then you should buy the kit. These are very inexpensive at anywhere from $15 to $20. Single plugs like this one are about $4.00.
Hair dryers. Since many of us who are adopting will be staying for a long period or making several trips, you may decide to buy a hair dryer in Latvia to be sure that it will work properly. Petr's Riga apartment has a Latvian hair dryer in the bathroom under the sink.DVDs and DVD Players. Remember that DVDs and players have region exclusion. Do not bother bringing any DVDs from the U.S. with you because they will not play. US DVDs use the NTSC format, and Europe uses PAL and SEACAM formats. We purchased a few DVDs and left them in the Riga apartment. Most were priced between $15 and $22. You can rent DVDs from the Boulinga Centers (Bowling Center) near the Riga apartment. It costs 1 Ls plus a 10 Ls deposit ($22) to rent a DVD for two days; don't have a stroke. When you return the DVD on time, you'll get 10 Ls ($20) back.
Batteries. These are an American luxury. You'll find that batteries are very expensive in Latvia. If you need them, buy them at home and pack them in your suitcase. If you purchase any toys or electronics for your children, be sure to get extra batteries for them because they will not have access to them when they are in the orphanage.
Click here for more information on Riga's public transport system.
If you are using The Open Door then a driver will be assigned to you by the Latvian facilitator. Our driver was Melissa Duits, and she was great. Melissa is an American missionary living in Latvia. She knows the city well and gave us a lot of very helpful information. Be respectful of your drivers' time. Recognize that need a little time to get to your location and a little warning. They cannot be constantly at your beck and call; so try to plan time a few days in advance.
Using the Tram, Bus, and Trolley Bus
Although more and more people are purchasing cars and learning to drive in Latvia, most people still take public transportation. You need to get yourself a good map to help you, but you can just about anywhere in Riga using the public transportation. Here are some tips for you if you are staying in the Riga apartment.
Using trams #10 and #7, our driver, and our feet, we were able to get anywhere we wanted to go. Feed your adventurous spirit, pick up your map, and hoof it. It's fun.
You can easily get a taxi. However, you'll need to be prepared speak a little Latvian. However, think about this. A taxi ride from Centrāl Tirgus to Lido is about 6 Ls ($12). That's $24 round trip. By taking trams #10 and #7, you'll spend only $0.80 per person round trip - and it will take about the same amount of time.
You can take a minibus to other locations like the Akvapark (the biggest water park in the Baltics) in Jurmala. However, you must pay attention to where you are and be able to speak a little Latvian. You have to give the driver instructions and tell him when to stop. Generally, if you want to go somewhere beyond the range of public transport, plan ahead and call your driver.
Dining and Shopping for Groceries
Lido. This very popular restaurant is the largest log structure in the Baltics. You'll find traditional Latvian foods and a wide array of fruit, vegetables, and desserts. This is a great place to try new things. Most of the entrees have a labels in Russian, Latvian and English. We found that most of the servers speak English and could describe the dishes. Everything is a la carte. Be aware that they do not take credit or debit cards -- you must pay in Lats. However, there is an ATM near the door, and we did not have any trouble using it to access our American bank account. Click here for a picture of Lido and more information.
Lido also has a roller skating rink (which becomes an ice skating rink in the winter), arcade games, and a playground. This is a good option for a few hours worth of fun and reasonably priced food.
Getting there: From Arkadijas Parks, take tram #10 to Central Tirgus and then pick up tram #7. This will take you to the Lido stop (about 10 stops from Central Tirgus). Get off the tram and look for the Lido sign. You'll walk a short distance down an access street to the back parking lot of the restaurant. It's easy to spot from a distance, so don't worry about getting lost. When you are ready to go back, return to the tram stop, but remember to walk across the street and look for the yellow sign. Take tram #7. Return to Central Tirgus and change to tram #10.
Fazer Cafe. This is a standard cafeteria like Picadilly or S&S located in Stockmann department store. The food is reasonable priced, but remember that everything is a la carte. They take credit cards and Lats.
Getting there: From Arkadijas Parks, take tram #10 to one stop past Grēcinieku iela. You will see Stockmann and Coca Cola Plaza. Take the pedestrian tunnel under the street. Fazer is inside stockman. Look for the directory near the escalator.
Blinoff's. Crepes are a big deal in Latvia. They call them pan cakes, but we know them more as crepes. They are served stuffed, burrito fashion, with fruit fillings, meats, cheese, you name it. This is a hole in the wall place, very inexpensive, but the portions are plentiful. Four of us ate a huge breakfast there for about 6 Ls ($12).
Getting there: From Arkadijas Parks, take tram #10 to Grēcinieku iela. Cut across the courtyard one block to your left and walk up Kaļķu iela into Old Town. Kaļķu iela will take you through Old Town and then it changes names to Brīvības bulvāris. You'll see the Freedom Monument. Walk toward the monument and through the park to New Riga. Cross Raiņa bulvāris and you'll find Blinoff's on your right in a row of shops. If you get to Merķeļa iela, you've gone too far. Keep your eye out for the small sign. Note: This is a pretty brisk walk.
Cili Pica (Chili Pizza). This pizza parlor is located on the ground floor of Stockman. We never could get a table there; it appears to be a very popular place. Latvian pizza is notoriously bad. But, if you have a pizza craving, you might try this place. Alternatively, you could be a frozen pizza from the market.
McDonalds. Yes, they are everywhere. You'll find one on Kaļķu iela near the Freedom Monument and also one across from the central train station near Stockman. Prices seemed comparable to the U.S., and the menu was almost exactly the same. Be aware that you will pay 6 santimi ($0.12) per packet of ketchup. Also, here the pies are still FRIED instead of baked. Yummy.
T.G.I. Friday's. I was surprised to find this, too. This is located on Kaļķu iela. It's expensive, but the menu is strictly American, and you'll find the decor very familiar. We ate there because we just needed familiar food one day. The wait staff speak English, and the menus are in English as well.
If you have the fortune to stay in an apartment, shopping for your own food is a great way to economize. Riga is a very modern city, and you will find many things that are familiar to you - and some that aren't. Here are the places where we shopped regularly.
Veikals Rits. This is the little store near the Riga apartment. You can purchase juices, milk, Kefirs, cereal, bread, candy, newspapers, pet food, meats, cheeses, and a number of other products. Their choices are few and the supply small; however, that helps guarantee the freshness of what they sell. The shop is no more than 2 or 3 minutes walk from the apartment. We generally stopped there 3 or 4 times a week for milk, break and yogurt.
City Market at Spice. City Market is akin to our super markets in the U.S. It is located in a shopping mall called Spice (near the airport). You'll need a car to get there. We suggest this is a great place to do your big shopping trips, and it has the largest selection of produce in Riga. You will find a variety of non food items such as books, CDs, DVDs, maps, housewares, toys and clothes. Address: Lielirbes 29. Open from 0900 to 2200.
Stockmann. Stockmann has a fairly large grocery store. However, remember that you'll probably have to carry your purchases with you on the tram, and that's not a lot of fun.
Mols. This is Riga's first big U.S. style shopping mall. You'll need a car to get there or take tram #7 to the Mazā Kalna stop (just a few stops before Lido). There is a large grocery store there, restaurants, many shops, banks and ATM. Address: Krasts 46. Open from 1000 to 2200.
Drogas. You will find Drogas everywhere in Riga. There is one close to the Riga apartment. This is a drug store similar to Eckerds or CVS. However, you CANNOT purchase pharmaceuticals there. Drugs are sold at the apothecary stores (Aptieka). There are plenty of these around, so take note of their location if you think you'll need to find one.
Other Necessaries and Shopping
If you have the space in your luggage, try to bring everything that you are going to need. This includes clothes for the children. If you need to buy clothes for the kids in Riga, you are going to shell out a lot of unnecessary cash. We were not able to find any discount stores, and, indeed, the concept is not widely known. You will not find a Target, Wal-Mart or Old Navy. Clothing is very expensive in Riga. Do not expect even to find a 10-pack of underwear or socks. Everything is sold separately and at a high price. We desperately needed underwear for our boys, and the cheapest we could find were about $3 apiece - and the quality was terrible. Here are some options for you.
Stockmann. Stockmann is a Macy's department store with the prices of Saks Fifth Avenue. For most items, expect to pay double what you'd pay in the U.S. We do not advise shopping here for clothing.
Spice. Spice is a shopping mall near the airport - you'll need a car to get there. This is a pretty large mall with many stores. Again, the prices will likely shock you. You may find some inexpensive clothes in the City Market grocery store, but you'll have to look carefully.
Centrs. This is an old Soviet universal store. It has been nicely remodeled and sits deep within Old Town. Walk straight up Grēcinieku iela. It will become Adēju iela. You'll see Centrs on the left. There is a shop called Cubus where you'll find less expensive clothing.
Mols. See information above. Mols has many stores and is a pretty popular place. We ate at a very nice Asian restaurant there and shopped at the grocery store. Many of the stores are high-end.
There's a lot of great shopping all over Riga and especially in Old Town. Don't be afraid to stop into one of the little shops and take a look. Many people speak English, and a lot of signage is in English, Latvian and Russian. We bought some yarn and knitting needles in a fantastic little shop and had no trouble communicating.
Doma laukums (Dome Square) had a wonderful Christmas market when we were there. Also, you'll find local artists displaying their work (for sale of course) in Livu laukums (Square of the Livs).
When possible, use your credit or debit card. This will ensure that you are getting the most up-to-date exchange rate for your U.S. dollar. When we traveled in winter of 2004, the exchange rate was about 51.25 Ls per $100 US. That's roughly $2 per 1 Ls.
You will find currency exchange booths (valūtas maiņa) everywhere. Because they are plentiful, you have the opportunity to shop for the best rate. Be sure that you are exchanging the best looking US money you have. You need to have the most recent design of the note, and the bill needs to be free of rips, tears, tape, stamps, or marks of any kind. If the exchange clerk doesn't like your money, they will reduce the exchange rate, charge a premium, or refuse the note.
Occasionally you'll find an ATM. These will work with your U.S. bank account. Use it just as you would in America; the machine will spit out Lats instead of dollars. I know there is an ATM in Lido, Mols and Spice.
You can also exchange your currency in a bank if you feel more comfortable with that.
WARNING: Before you travel, decide what credit and/or debit cards you are going to take. Don't take everything (you won't need your Exxon or Sears cards). Carefully select what you want to take with you and then call your credit card company and your bank. Let them know when you will travel and where. This is IMPORTANT. If you do not notify them, your creditor may fear that your card has been stolen and cut you off. You don't want to be in a foreign country with no access to cash.
Making Regular Phone Calls to Latvia
If you are in the midst of an adoption process (or if you have friends in Latvia) and have permission to regularly call your child, I suggest that you visit the following website.
The guy who built this website does a lot of international travel and has friends all over the world. He put this website together in order to help people understand how to make international telephone calls and to help them find the best rates for their call. We've purchased calling cards from this site numerous times, and I can vouch that the website is secure and legitimate.
On this site, you can purchase a calling card that offers a rate for US > Latvia calls for as low as $0.09 per minute.. AT&T is likely to charge you as much as $5.00 per minute if you just call from home without making any special arrangements.
On this website, you will not actually receive a calling card by mail. They will send you a PIN by email (so you need a credit card) and an access number.
Typically, we purchase 4 PINs at a time, each loaded with $5. When you account for access fees and other associated charges, a $5 PIN allows you to talk for about 45 minutes.
Leaving Other Children at Home while You Travel
If you do not plan to travel with your entire family and you have children who will be staying with a relative, remember that you should do the following things.