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The Pennine Way | |
| Introduction Edale Crowden Globe Farm Slack Top Ponden Thornton Malham Horton Hawes Tan Hill |
 Bryness Village, Redesdale, surrounded by Kielder Forest |
Bowes Middleton Langdon Beck Dufton Garrigill Alston Greenhead Twice Brewed Bellingham Bryness Uswayford |
Some people finish the PW in one long day of 27 miles (43 kilometres) from Bryness to Kirk Yetholm. I was not up to such a strenuous day so I split the walk in two by dropping down to Uswayford (pronounced Oozyford) Farm. The other options are to camp somewhere near The Cheviot (which Ian and Marilyn did) or drop a long way off-route to pre-arranged transport. I left the B&B with Ian and Marilyn and we walked down the road to where the PW took a direct route climbing up a steep 150m ascent through the forest to the top of Bryness Hill. From here there is a good view back down into the dale - a good excuse for a rest. We had the better excuse of stopping to put on some wind-proof clothing to protect us from a rather cruel wind.
From Bryness Hill we followed the path along a ridge to Houx Hill and then along a fence to Ravens Knowe. Between the last two heights (I think), there was a long boardwalk saving the fragile moors from walker's boots. There was an easy drop along the side of Ogre Hill to the headwaters of the Coquet river (just a trickle where we crossed). We climbed up from the river a bit and then followed it down to Chew Green.
Chew Green is the site of not only a medieval village (Kemylpethe) but also of a series of Roman marching camps (constructed by the legions as overnight stops) and a small fort. What you see nowadays is just the low earthworks of the Roman remains. It is here that the PW joins the Dere Street - a Roman road that linked York with the Caledonian wilderness. The military is still active around here - to the east is an army exercise area (now using 'dry' ammo but still be careful of anything you see in the grass).
We strolled slowly around Chew Green and uphill to the gate where Dere Street wanders into Scotland. We stayed in England and went in an arc around to Rennie's Burn. The ground is supposed to be boggy around here but I did not find it too bad. A short stint uphill and around a bit of a corner and we arrived at the wooden shelter at Yearning Saddle. This is about the size of a railway wagon with creosoted roof and walls and provided a welcome break from the wind (despite the fresh coat of creosote that was being applied as we had an early lunch).
After our rest, we proceeded on over Lamb Hill (good place to look back over the ground we had travelled), Beefstand Hill, Mozie Law (slightly wet underfoot) and then Plea Knowe where the ancient drove road of The Street climbed up a ridge from Coquetdale. The National Trail Guide book has a good circular route using The Street and the PW.
The PW avoided Foul Step and then crossed into Scotland for the first time as we climbed fairly steeply up Windy Gyle and to the large cairn at its summit. This is Russell's Cairn that commemorates Lord Francis Russell (warden of one of the three Border Marches or zones) who was killed here during a wardens meeting in 1585. The cairn provides a little shelter from the wind and an atmospheric, lonely place to have a break. There is a good view onwards along the ridge the PW takes up to The Cheviot.
With Scotland still under our feet we pressed on along the fence to meet Clennell Street and passed back to England over a ladder-stile. Here our paths split - I dropped down to Uswayford while they pressed on to camp near Hen Hole under the slopes of The Cheviot. The 2 kilometre walk down to the farm was very easy - as it usually is walking down hill. The farm itself is very isolated - they have to travel 20 miles to the nearest village for supplies. The farmer and his wife provide good basic accommodation and an evening meal. Coupled with great company - a trio of other walkers (a Frenchman doing the PW and a couple crossing the North of England) and of course the farmer and his wife - the evening passed comfortably.
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