Russian tea-drinking
Tea-drinking
is an indispensable part of the life of the Russian people. Tea is not only a
very popular daily beverage in Russia, but it is also remarkable for its special
poetic atmosphere Tea-drinking is associated with a Russian hospitality, with a
friendly company and relatives, with warm and serene feelings.
Tea
was introduced to Russia in the early seventeenth century from China. It was
brought to Muscovy in 1638 by the boyar son Vasily Starkov, who was sent with
gifts to the Mongol Khans. The new drink was tested at the Court of Tsar Mikhail
Feodorovich, it was favourably met and thus came into use. The first agreement
for the delivery of tea from China was signed during the reign of Feodor
Alexeyevich in 1679. Starting in the eighteenth century, Russia had an intense
trade in Chinese tea through Mongolia and Siberia. Indian and later Ceylon tea
began to be imported to Russia, similarly to West European countries, in the
nineteenth century.
The
spread of a tea-drinking custom in Russia was largely promoted by the
introduction of special tea urns, samovars, in the eighteenth century. The
samovar became an indispensable attribute of tea-making (unlike West European
varieties, where they were used for heating a bouillon). Its growing popularity
was also connected with the exploration of mineral riches in the Urals and the
establishment of copper-melting production there. The first mention of the
Russian samovar refers to 1746, and in the early nineteenth century tea-drinking
from a samovar became a firmly established tradition in Russian society.
Towards
the middle of the nineteenth century tea has gradually turned into a truly
national beverage in Russia. Tea-drinking has entered the daily life of every
layer of Russian society and has become an indispensable part of their everyday
life and personal contacts. Samovars were produced in such a wide range of
shapes and were so remarkable for their elegant decorations that these metal
articles have become notable specimens of national handicraft.
As
the Russian writer Mikhail Zagoskin vividly described,"... they were
drinking tea everywhere. Tea was in demand with our merchants, the only luxury
of our lower middle class, a festive, highest joy for all the sober raznochintsy,
factory workers, and even peasants — the Russian samovar could be seen puffing
at every turn."
In
middle-class urban and rich peasant households a special ritual of Russian
tea-drinking was evolved. A boiling samovar, polished to glitter, was put on a
special small table on an ornate tray, next to the dining table. Tea cups with
saucers, a sugar-bowl with lumps of sugar, pincers for breaking sugar, pies,
cakes and even fruits were served on the main table. A teapot with a sieve
hanging from its spout was put on the top ring of the samovar. Tea pouring into
cups was a sort of a ceremony usually devoted to the housewife or to her eldest
daughter. It used to be a custom to sip tea from a saucer supporting it by all
the five fingers. Tea was added into one's cup until a guest would put it upside
down. In the homes of the intelligentsia and official aristocracy it was
traditional to drink tea using ornate metal glass-holders. In these homes the
bouillote? a vessel for boiling water with a spirit-lamp, to keep the water hot
until the samovar would be prepared again,
was an indispensable accompaniment. In Russian taverns, there was a custom to
serve tea in "couples" — a large tea-kettle with boiling water and a
smaller teapot with tea. Towards the late nineteenth century, in addition to
traditional tea, recipes of tea with herbs, berries, honey and milk began to be
introduced.