WANDERLUST: West & East Germany (1988) Disclaimer: This journal was taken when I was a wee lass of seventeen. It was my first time in a plane, first trip abroad, and first time visiting any city larger than Seattle or Minneapolis. At this time, the Berlin Wall was still up and people in East Germany were forbidden from traveling to West Germany. Please excuse all naive cultural generalizations, self-centeredness, church-heavy content, comments about cute guys and unnatural food description obsessions - I was just seventeen (if you know what that means). Thursday, June 16, 1988: London & Frankfurt Berlin Airport: I met one member of my host family, Petra, at the Berlin airport, where a mean-looking guard was patrolling on top. Morgan's host family discovered her right off the bat. The guy had a daughter Morgan's age who was having a birthday party. Morgan was invited, and she left, looking a bit nervous. Marijke and I left with my family - they have a daughter two years old (perhaps less). The Pink Floyd concert drew many tough-looking characters in downtown Berlin. We also came in time for the three-day Michael Jackson concert. Dropped Marijke off with Steve, Nathan and Bill (my host family mom said that the German girls were very happy for some good-looking American boys!) Hopefully the guys will be equally impressed. Rotes Inseln: Got to Petra's apartment on Rotes Inseln (Red Island - named for the Communists that lived there during World War II). It is a very large apartment, with many rooms. The room I'm in is a little larger than our living room at home. Incredibly soft bed! Chernobyl & Meat: I had a big dinner here. We had tomatoes covered with cheese, hard bread, and Spanish rice with fresh sage leaves and sausages. The family I'm staying with generally doesn't eat meat because the accident in Chernobyl contaminated the meat. I was offered wine, but drank juice instead. Malvina and I played with the record player and money in my pocket. Kids are easier to communicate with than adults. You can always ask "Was ist das?" if you are confused. Petra and Piotr are very warm-hearted and fun. We laughed a lot at dinner. German Bathrooms: There's an interesting subject. The toilet is wide and a considerable distance off the floor. It also flushes by running water over the waste. You control the water amound when you flush. There's also an extremely wide and shallow basin for washing your hands. And, of course, a shower - I think I'll take one tonight. Heavy, authentic German is such a treat to listen to. German is a very clear language, but I'm understanding very little of it. Hope Morgan is doing better. Friday, June 17, 1988: Berlin The temperature here is very nice. The morning is fresh and a little cold - of course, I'm also near an open window. However, I see the sun and it promises to be a good day. That is, if I don't make many more screw-ups in German (like saying Morgan has kleiner Haar for her short hairstyle). More later. Across the street from my bedroom window is a park where a bunch of little kids were playing with a ball last night. It is deserted today. Today is a holiday. It celebrates the Unity of Germany. Unfortunately, my family doesn't like it because it has become an event when American soldiers (and other Allied troups) march through the streets with weapons. There is no alternative program. Charlotten Schloss: For breakfast we had beans, bread and jam and two cups of tea. The we all piled in the Lotzgen's Mercedes Benz and travelled out to Charlottesburg and the castle of it's name. Huge walls, tapestries, intricate paintings, etc. With all the beauty before me, the room I liked best was the library. Not only did it have ancient books, but also gem boxes. Beautiful. Petra went with us, along with Malvina (her two-year old daughter), Christoph and his good-looking son. However, no one spoke with him, since he spoke only German. After we were through touring the castle, we strolled through the castle ground. The boys threw stones at the black pigeons and we all saw our first naked sun-bather. It was a she and she had no top (Morgan thinks it was also no bottom). Steve was impressed. Pepperoni Pizza: Afterwards, we went to a little hole-in-the-wall pizza place. Marijke, Morgan and I orderd one salad with an interesting dressing and two pizzas - one with salami and one with salami/mushrooms/pickled peppers (salamieren, champagnes & pepperonis). Morgan didn't like the peppers on the pizza, which was very salty and eaten with a fork. We also had a bitter lemon drink - tasted as it sounds. I liked it. Climbing the Stairway to Heaven: We then went to Christof's church (in our German book - I don't remember its name), where we could climb to the top. Not even halfway up the dusty path, Marijke, Sheila and Nancy chickened out. The rest of us climbed the dusty stone stairs - some of them spiral-shaped. When we reached the external ladder to the tower, Mary, who had on a white suit, ditched out. The rest of us climbed up: Bill, Nathan, Morgan, Steve and me. The ladder was getting narrower and we could see that we were very high off the ground. Steve and I were behind the others and getting further and further behind. Finally Morgan, one flight above us, told us to wait. She told us that if we were afraid of heights, not to go any further. Steve was getting somewhat nervous and started down. Morgan passed me and also started down and Steve waited for her. I went outside - it was incredibly far down. Nathan and Bill were ahead of me - all the way at the top of the church. I snapped a picture (both down and up) and started to climb up the thin metal ladder with my flip-flops on. I got about halfway up when Nathan told me to get down. I chickened out after that. I had my pictures. After we got our hands washed up in the boy's bathroom and kitchen, we listened to a speech about the church. I don't remember much of what happened after that. All I remember is that around 6:00 p.m. we met with the German girls and talked about many things while playing on the playground, while listening to Steve brag. I met Judith, the girl Morgan was staying with. She was very nice. Back at my host family's house, we had Ratataus (tomato/vegetable dish) and wine and watched the Freedomfest on the TV. I took a shower. Petra came into my bedroom and we listened to classical music. I was informed that tomorrow we were on our own until 1:30 p.m, so I called up Morgan & Judith and made plans to meet at Wittenburgplatz at the U-Bahn near the KaDeWe at 10:30 a.m. Na gut. Saturday, June 18, 1988 - Berlin Today started off with a bang. Mary called in the morning and asked me my plans. I told her that I was meeting Morgan & Judith at 10:30 a.m. Mary and Marijke went to the Berlin Zoo. I called up the boys to see what they were going to do. Told them that we were going to meet, and they said that they'd probably join us there. I had tea, a soft-boiled egg, and sweet bread for breakfast. Then I exchanged $50 for 75DM with Petra & Piotr. I still owe them for that. I'll hopefully exchange it on a Sunday. KaDeWe: Piotr dropped me off at the KaDeWe and I went to Wittenburg at the U-Bahn and sat down. Morgan, Judith and another German girl came, but no sign of the boys. We spent our entire time in the KaDeWe - it's huge. We visited the makeup stands, Esprit outlet, toy store (where they had Opus, Snoopy, Garfield and Meine Kleine Pony). They also had some cards called Bad Ass cards - a little bit of American humor? After that, we visited the bookstore, where they had Stephen King books in German. I bought "Der gehime Garten" (The Secret Garden). Morgan and I went to the bathroom - it cost 20 pfennig to use. A woman wiped off the toilet seat each time. We tried to exchange our money, but we didn't have enough time and it was too complicated. We met Judith again and caught the U-Bahn to Judith's house. Back at Judith's house I had a huge plate of spaghetti and strawberries with sugar and whipped cream. Then Morgan and I rushed to the church - Piotr drove us. We were the first ones there.The group and Sheila and Nancy came later First Pub!: We drove to an old church (oldest in Berlin?) where we listened to a speech entirely in German. Then we travelled to yet another church. First we went to a pub and had dessert and coffee - Steve put three lumps of sugar in mine, but it tasted O.K., though. The men at the pub whistled at us when we went in. Ha! All of us girls went to watch a soccer game with Steve, Nathan and Bill. The team kicked the soccer ball towards us and almost ran into us. Marijke said that I was almost run over - the guy turned around smiled and gave us a thumbs-up sign. Morgan promptly made us leave. We returned to the church - a wedding had just been there and there was rice and pfennig on the ground. We, of course, collected them. Then we went inside for another long German speech. After that, we went to the church near where I live and listened to yet another long, German speech. All of us kids were invited to a party thrown by the church youth for us, but Mary, Sheila and Nancy wouldn't let us go. That made us all really mad. Mary said that it "wasn't on our plan." We sat through an hour-long church service that I wouldn't have heard anything during even if I hadn't been fuming. Finally, I went to the bathroom and we eventually left and went to the party. "Loose Dancing": Outside the party were a couple of Berlin boys. They came in after we did. It was murder trying to get the boys (American and German) to dance at the party. Nathan said he'd ask a girl if I asked a guy to dance. So I asked all of the German boys if anyone wanted to dance. They all looked at each other and spoke really fast German. After awhile, I left. I asked Bill to dance, but he said no. Then Nathan told me I could ask him. I did, and he said "Not really, but I will." So we were the first and only couple to slow-dance that round. Finally, all the U.S. boys ended up playing foozball with themselves. I took the ball away from them and gave it to the Germany boys, who promptly gave it back. Judith told me I was very bold. I thanked her. We danced a lot - most often, Marijke, Morgan and me. Finally, a slow song came on where all the boys danced with the girls. I didn't, though. That was O.K., because at least I got them dancing. After awhile, after Bill and Nathan threw my shoes down the hall and after I threatened to castrate them, I danced with Bill. He asked me and I told him that he should dance with German girls. He acted hurt. I asked Steve to dance, but he said no. Bill thought that was unfair, so I asked him to dance. We did. He's a pretty good dancer. Then the Americans and Germans played foozball. The German boys won by two points. Then someone got a note started because the music was so loud. I stopped it and asked one of the German guys (Aleseander) to dance. He said yes. I also found out, through writing, that he was 14 (he wrote "Na ja, fürs mich ein bischen zu alt!"). And so we danced and exchanged addresses. Morgan told me I was robbing the cradle. He is three years younger than me. O.K. by me. Aleseander looks a lot like Mackenzie Astin - small and cute. He likes shaking hands with people. Hopefully I will write to him when I get home. I got a ride home with Petra's friend. He was nice. The dance was a success - but almost entirely American music. Sunday, June 19, 1988 - Berlin Today was a fun day (Family Day). For breakfast, we had granola with currants and slices of honeydew melon. Holy Poker Chips: Petra and I then went to church, arriving a little late. Because we were late, we had to sit in the front row. The singing at church was wonderful! The minister was a nice, pious young man and I could understand a bit of the German sermon. They had wafers for communion that they placed in your mouth. Personally, I think they look like plastic poker chips. Fortunately, they don't taste that way. We also didn't get a single song open on time - we both laughed a lot about that. On the way out, I almost took the hymnal with me. Schlachtensee: When I got home, Petra made cappuchino and halva and we rested. Then Petra and I caught the U-Bahn to meet Seth (or Tzett - or something similar). He's an Australian that speaks fluent German and lives in Stockholm. Recently, he got back from Nicaragua. We went to a lake (don't remember it's name, but it was a couple miles around). Gook walk. We took the subway back semi-illegally. Lunch/dinner was wonderful - we had zucchini noodles with an absolutely delicious sauce. Afterwards, I rested up and played with Malvina & got ready for the concert. Then Petra and I went to the church BBQ. Grill Abend: At the barbecue, Nathan made several chauvenistic pig remarks so I tried to kill him. All women there applauded my effort. Gave Morgan back her stuff, ate absolutely delicious sausages (Fleisch) on a roll and drank apple (apfel) cider. After the grill abend, Petra and I went to the Philharmonic concert. Berlin Philharmonic: The concert was in a wonderful building with neat acoustics. The Michael Jackson concert was nearby, but you couldn't hear it from inside. Wine & Chocolate Beetles: Afterwards, Petra and I walked to where they boys were staying for a glass of wine. It turned out that all the chaperones were there too - I had a large glass of wine with the adults, ate a chocolate beetle and talked about the concert. Then I visited the boys room (minus Martin). They were playing computer games, gossiping, etc. They told me that out of all the German girls, that they liked Sophie and Judith best and to tell them that. Nathan and Steve had a little wine and a ton of candy. Marty, their rooomate, was at the Michael Jackson concert. Bill tried to set me up with Marty - great. Anyhow, listened to music with the boys and talked. I was in a mellow mood - the guys were in a horny mood, naturally. Afterwards, Petra and I caught the bus partway home and walked about another mile to get home. I took a shower and started writing in my journal. Monday, June 20, 1988 - Berlin Damn Dog! Today, we travelled along a river. I got up, ate granola with Petra and ran to the car so we could make it in time. Malvina cried (weinnt) when we left her at the Kinderladen. Susie (their dog) still doesn't like me, but she tolerates. On the way over, we picked up Nathan, Steve, Bill and Marijke. We made it in time to the boat place. Charon & the River Styx: A sweet, German lady came up to the boys and asked in German if they were going on the ship. All three shrugged, looked hopelessly confused, and turned to me. I cleared matters up (in German!) for them. The boat ride was interesting, but after three hours, a bit too much for me. We were sitting next to the loudspeakers the entire trip. Steve and Bill both came to make and asked me to help translate for them. Marijke came along too. Steve bought me a Fanta for all my troubles. How sweet! Not So Innocent: Of course, later on, all the boys were accusing me of stealing Mary's A-ha concert ticket. I said I'd give it back. We got a lot of mileage out of that one and out of a slew of bestiality jokes (I won't mention any here). The Marty Forester Code of Honor: After the boat ride, we ate lunch at the main church with a very nice German man - perhaps a minister. He bought us ice, spaghetti and cola! Then we boarded a bus (touring) with a group of people from Colorado. We went many places in the hot sun. Morgan and Steve were talking, so Bill and Nathan made me swear the code of honor of "Marty Forester" that I didn't take his ticket. Boy, do they like him! He seems nice - more tomorrow. Turkish Food: Doner Kabobs: After the tour was over, we had drinks at Michael, Judith and Morgan's place, then went to a Turkish deli where we had doner kebobs. It was pita bread filled with lamb, lettuce, cabbage and onions. It was delicious and I scarfed it down quickly. Later, at the same place, I helped Nathan lose at the slot machines. "The wall is nicht so hoch": We then walked to the older-person's place (17-24 year olds), where we had tea, cookies, BBQ corn, hot dogs and ice cream. The people there were extremely interesting. One guy was from East Berlin and had escaped by climbing over the wall. He seemed to really like Marijke when we broke up into smaller groups. He was also very good-looking. Olaf in our group translated a lot. He had learned British English and it had a different ring to it. The East Germany guy had no years of English, yet he managed very well. Brian had traveled to the States, was dark-haired and dark-eyed, had a mole on the side of his face, and was very handsome. We spoke a lot. Max was an interesting person that liked to drink, smoke and study people's behavior. He was also very good-looking. All of them were extremely friendly and spoke good English. We laughed a lot and heard many interesting stories. The house was neat - like "The Children of Han" and "Slakes Limbo". They had converted a bathtub into a police car, table tennis, poool, mood-working rooms, romantic rooms, etc. One room had silhouettes and sayings like: "Einstein ist Tot; Newton ist Tot; Und mir is ganz schlecht" or something to that effect. Then we left, Marijke very happy, Morgan also (the East German guy gave her a hug goodbye). Well, tomorrow school with the boys. Tuesday, June 21, 1988 - Berlin Gymnasium: SpielKasino: During the night, I got very little sleep. My average bedtime has been 12:30 a.m. at night. Anyway, I woke up at 7:00 a.m. this morning, got dressed in a t-shirt and Petra drove me to Marty's school - Gymnasium. I met the boys and we all went in together - minus Marty. Evidently, when we got there, there had been some girls who had been waiting for half an hour. Of course we got to go in first. They got mad at us. It was free-school day, or student-decide, and so we all went to a Spielcasino. We got in free since we were touring. Marin was behind us, and he had to pay. They stamped your hand, which allowed you to get a free drink. "Poker!": As soon as we got in, many German voices cried "Poker"! We didn't have any money, though. I lent Nathan two Marks to get in on a poker hand. Bill already had the money on him. We sat down at the table. The dealer was a short, cute blond kid that looked a lot like Alesander. There were other people there, all boys. One noticeable exception was a kid my age dressed entirely in black with his hair slicked back. Steve called him a "greaser" (not to his face, of course). He looked incredibly like Corey Feldman. Anyway, we played a few rounds; I helped Nathan out. He was, after all, spending my money. Nathan and Bill lost all during the first hands. Then Steve got bored, so I cashed in five Marks and we started to trade hands. We did O.K. for awhile. The guy who looked like Corey Feldman was a good player - and also the leader (suprise!) They folded easily, though. Then I got the hand. I had nothing to begin with - I kept the high cards (an ace and a king). I drew another king and two queens, to make two pair - pretty good. Started betting, and most people folded. After awhile, it was a guy in a ponytail betting and me. He was watching me the entire time I was betting. Finally, I put in 50 pfennigs. He looked startled, and met. We went like this for many rounds. Finally, Nathan was lending me some of my own $$, which I didn't need. The other guy was borrowing $$ from his friends, until finally, after a long German discussion, he folded. Turns out he only had a pair and was bluffing. He and Corey Feldman left soon after that, and we alternated dealing. I had a bitter-lemon drink and Steve won a fairly good hand. Bill nearly trippled his $$, so I was actually in the hole a bit. After that, we went to make face-masks (none of us wanted to do it), and played HORSE against Bill (I won) JERCHEL: June 22-23, 1988 HALLE: June 24-25, 1988 NAUEMBERG: June 24-25, 1988 EISENACH: June 29-July 1, 1988 OHLWEILER: July 2, 1988 FRANKFÜRT-LANGEN: July 3-6, 1988 WANDERLUST