My first challenge of the day (after clearing Customs & Immigration, retrieving my luggage and scooping up a handful of HKTA flyers) was withdrawing money from the ATM machine in the airport while groggy from travel. Here's the numerical keypad layout in Hong Kong:
Finally managed to withdraw HK$1,000 from my checking account back home (it took a couple tries, and not just because I couldn't quite remember my ATM code). Figured out a quick way to convert Hong Kong prices into US prices. Basically, you're looking to take 12.8% of the final amount. Since my brain was fried and unable to work even simple equations, I came up with:
HK dollars to US dollars:
Picked up Octopus Card ($150, with an extra $100 added) and took Airport Express to Kowloon. Unable to find easy way to get to Booth Lodge (Yau Ma Tei), and I was way too tired to walk anywhere, so I caught the MTR to Central, back to Kowloon and Yau Ma Tei. Wasn't thinking entirely clearly at that stage.
Checked into my room at 9:00 a.m., cranked the air-conditioning (humid!) and took a shower. Flopped on the bed and watched the Japanese cast of Power Rangers (they have horses!) & the Chinese-dubbed version of "Masters of Mosquiten".
Took off at noon down Nathan Road and almost got clobbered by a double-decker bus (they're fast!). Walked past the Shamrock Hotel & Cafe on Jordan - appropriate for St. Patrick's Day. Passed the Jordan MTR subway stop and entered the heavy shopping district of Tsim Sha Tsui. Avoided the enthusiastic suit sellers outside Chungking Mansions.
Looked out onto the Central skyline, framed by the mountains and harbour. Viewed the colorful animals in front of the Clock Tower. Located the Star Ferry Terminal.
Walked through Kowloon Park on the way back. Hit the 7-11 for food: Chicken Tandoori & Raita sandwich ($13.60), Okonomiyaki flavoured chips ($7.80) and Peach-flavoured water ($9.00). Picked up can of Blue Mountain iced coffee ($6.50) for breakfast tommorrow.
Found Temple Street around 3 p.m. A few stands were being set up for the Night Market. Got mildly lost around Jordan and Shanghai Street and was unable to find my way back to Nathan without breaking out the map. There's a distinct lack of street signs on the crossroads in that section (that, and my brain was fried from the 20-hour flight with intermittant sleep). Finally found Nathan and went back to Booth Lodge to hide for the night.
Went to bed around 6 p.m. Woke up at 9 p.m. to the sounds of a loud Cantonese discussion in hallway (this would be a nightly occurance). Slept and woke up at midnight. Saw the lights from Central through my window, as well as a neon sign for Treasure Restaurant across street. Took a hot bath to relax and slept on and off for rest of evening.
MONDAY
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 Central Skyline, Take 2 |
- Booth Breakfast
Woke up at 6:45 a.m. and had a can of Blue Mountain Coffee and a chocolate orange biscuit bar ($8.00) from room fridge. Went downstairs for breakfast at 8:00 a.m. (served from 7-10 a.m.) . Breakfast was buffet-style: scrambled eggs, hot dogs, vermicelli noodles with slivers of onion, cabbage and red hot sauce, congee with added meat, salted peanuts and green onions, toast and orange juice. Had coffee afterwards (with evaporated milk added automatically; I also added large granules of raw sugar - tasty!) I think I'm addicted to congee - so warm and comforting. Met a nice Salvation Army woman in the elevator who reminded me of an elderly Sister Sarah from "Guys & Dolls." - Kowloon
Took Shanghai Street down to Tsim Sha Tsui instead of Nathan Road. Saw street altars, salted fish heads, signs spanning the streets and homeless in cardboard bed/box. Couple blocks away from Jade Market. Everything seems much more comfortable and familiar the second time around. Realized how close I was to Booth Lodge yesterday when lost (the fish heads were the tip-off). Sat at Victoria Harbour, looking at the Hong Kong Skyline. Breeze is cooling, cloudy skies - temperature moderate. - Star Ferry
Took the Star Ferry to Central; used the Octopus card for the lower deck. I really like ferries - the Star Ferry reminded me of the Staten Island ferry in New York. Browsed bookstore at Central terminal. Unable to find Pacific Coffee Company, rumored to be somewhere in the terminal. - Central
Wandered around Central which, oddly enough, reminded me of downtown Spokane and Halifax. Must be the skywalks and department stores next to water. Very clean. Saw commercial for "E.T" in Cantonese while waiting on corner. Found signs for the mid-level escalators - looked like a mountain hike. - Mid-Level Escalators
Found the mid-level escalators and, wouldn't you know, they were all running downhill - towards me. Started climbing up the stairs. Climbed many, many stairs. Great street views & the escalators & stairs were covered with garlands of flowers. Stopped at a sweet Starbucks for coffee and a much-needed rest. Made it to the top of the mid-level escalators (Conduit Road) and started walking parallel to harbor. - Botanical & Zoological Garden
Found the Botanical & Zoological Gardens! Entry way along cement and jungle-foilage paths. Run-off for streams, overhead canvas of leaves and funky pedestrian walks. Zoological part: apes, chimps, gibbons, python, flamingos, peacocks and jaguar - all for free.
Botanical & Zoological Gardens
- Chinese-Style Toilets:
Found a bathroom in the Gardens: four Chinese-style toilets and one US-style toilet. Naturally, I squatted. Actually, the whole setup is very practical, especially for women: stand in the foot-rests, facing the door. Pull clothes down, grab railing and, er, squat. Toilet paper and flush lever provided at lower level. - Peak Tram
Plotted a path to the Peak Tram from the Gardens (Garden Road, appropriately enough). Overshot and found the U.S. Embassy - handy! Walked back up the hill and paid for the tram with my ever-handy Octopus cards (bypassing the line for tickets). Tons of handouts for attractions at the top of the peak. Took the Peak Tram up the mountain - floors all funky (curved like waves). Climb was steep - at least a 60 degree angle. Got off the tram and was feeling light-headed and disoriented. Thought it might be the altitude or the steep climb. Followed everyone through the Tram Station - past the food courts, Ripley's Believe it or Not and Madame Tousseau's Wax Museum. - Pacific Coffee Company
Found a Pacific Coffee Company with two free Internet terminals open (four total). Bought a lemon Japanese carbonated drink, asked at the counter (15 minutes) and sat down at one. Unable to get into Yahoo mail (hung connection - blocked?), so I restarted the computer. Still no go, but I could load Google just fine. Figured that Pacific Coffee was blocking Yahoo Mail, so I used my work account to send a message. Dad's bounced back, so I sent Morgan an e-mail telling her to tell the folks that I'm O.K. and having a blast in Hong Kong - Victoria Peak
Checked out the view from Victoria Peak - nice, but I liked the view from Kowloon even better. Almost fell when I came in from the viewing station. Figured I might be low bloodsugar (too much walking), so I stopped at Eat Noodles for lunch. - Eat Noodles
Had a lychee drink ($28) with black tapioca balls and a large straw to suck them up (called "bubble tea" here in New York) and a mess of Hokkien noodles ($38) with slices of roast duck, mu shu pork, carrots, cabbage & onions. Tasty! Visited the gift shop afterwards and considered buying post cards and stamps (there was a post office on the premise), but rejected it. Found a bathroom and fled the commercialism of Victoria Peak. - Hiking down Victoria Peak
Found a cement path leading down the mountain (and a Hong Kong police officer walking up the path). Took the path down and ran into 5-10 people climbing up. Extremely steep path, paved with concrete with no borders. Figured this must be one of the Hong Kong hiking trails. Extremely thankful that I was wearing rubber-soled boots (despite the heat). Blisters starting to form & slight vertigo and disorientation. Looked over the side and realized that it would hurt very much if I were to fall. Walked very carefully down the rest of the way. Got to the bottom of the path and noticed that my legs were trembling. Sat on the bench for a good, long time. Decided to call it a day (too many blisters and too much sweat and exhaustion).
Path down Victoria Peak:
It's steeper than it looks. Really - Old Peak Road
Took the wrong path out (cars on too-narrow path, cement stairs leading down to unused platform), so I backtracked and found Old Peak Road. Completely and thoroughly lost until I hit... the Botanical & Zoological Gardens, near the jaguar's cage. Stopped in the park to use the bathroom - too tired to squat this time. Wandered past a Police Station and prison (tough-looking guys hanging around out front) onto ... the fashionably trendy area of Lan Kwai Fong. - Lan Kwai Fong
Limped down the attractive streets of Lan Kwai Fong, feeling extremely dirty & smelly. Found another Pacific Coffee Company and ordered a latte. Both Internet connections were occupied. Long wait for the much-needed bathroom (three men's worth). Finished my latte and headed for the Mid-Level Escalator. Got a "Hi There!" and a smile from a guy while walking, so I couldn't have looked quite as awful as I felt. Took the Mid-Level Escalator stairs down (although the escalators were running in the opposite direction, they were still running against me). - Park'n Shop
Found a Park'n Shop grocery store en route to the Star Ferry and stopped in for supplies. Ran into a Hellraiser guy clad in a black bustier and a full-length black leather skirt - the first (and last) Asian goth I'd seen in Hong Kong. Broke one of my airport $500 bills for dinner: tin of camembert ($23.80), sesame crackers ($3.50), Iron Buddha tea bags ($9.90), Japanese mixed candy ($9.80), lychee sour drink ($14.00) and herbal shampoo ($21.90). - Trip back to Kowloon
Wandered through the International Finance Centre Mall & hopped aboard the Star Ferry for another jaunt across the harbour. Checked the balance on my Octopus card: $87 (out of $200) - not bad, considering the Airport Express took out a hefty $90. Retired to my hotel room for a riotous evening of Hong Kong television (Beetleborgs and anime).
TUESDAY
March 19, 2002:
- Breakfast at Booth Lodge #2
Breakfast at Booth Lodge: congee, toast & eggs with hot sauce and two cups of coffee. Becoming used to this type of food. - Tsim Sha Tsui ("Jim Sha Joi")
Stiff and sore from yesterday's hike down from Victoria Peak. Ironically, I though walking to the Star Ferry terminal (two MTR stops away) might loosen me up. Took a side road in Tsim Sha Tsui and found a creepy shopping mall (arcade) with dark, empty floors beneath me. Found a couple more malls and sky bridges, but nothing open at the early hour of 8:45 a.m. Construction work on the KCR (Kowloon-Canton Railway) line cut off my access to the harbor, so I doubled-back. Blisters from yesterday starting to ache. Sat looking at the Central skyline, sore and tired; bruised and bleeding. Tenative plan for today: stay indoors and do as little walking as possible. - Wan Chai & Convention Centre
Caught the Star Ferry to Wan Chai for a close-up view of the Hong Kong Convention Centre (blown to smithereens in Gen-X Cops). Stopped in a drugstore for band-aids (plasters) and candy (Green Apple and Grape Mentos!) Found a "New York Cafe", but still full from breakfast. Saw China Resource Building (padoga and gravel & Chinese lions). Wandered around and decided to walk to Causeway Bay. Since I was sore and tired, I can only blame Ekin Cheng's great hair in the Young and Dangerous. - Causeway Bay
Saw an IKEA, movie theatre, round pedestrian skywalk and workers dismantling the bamboo scafolding. Found an entrance to Victoria Park and was near the Hong Kong World Trade Center. Tried my damnest to have fun - went in a department store and looked at clothes and exotic foods. Unable to figure out the buses, so I hopped the Causeway Bay MTR back to Yau Ma Tei ("Yow Ma Day") at 11:45 a.m. Still too early to head back to the hotel, so I stopped at 7-11 and picked up dim-sum for lunch. - 7-11 Dim Sum
Picked up a pork bun, a tuna/rice and seaweed wrap (with soy sauce in a fish-shaped plastic container), can of Sunkist orange cola and a handful of black currant pasels. Fruit and vegetables were sorely lacking this trip. Headed off down a side road to find King's Park (which I could view from my hotel room). Passed by a grocery store and the YMCA International House. Also near a school (I could hear them playing for lunch). Hot and bright and humid out. Kind of miserable. - King's Park
Found steep cement stairs leading up to vegetation and an elderly man climbing them. Decided to trail him up, in hopes that it would end up at King's Park. After spotting a small lizard sunning itself on the steps, stumbling once from the heat & humidity, and wandering through back yards and behind schools, I found an athletic workout trail leading to a clearing with benches and shade. Plopped myself down and started eating my lunch. Butterflies flying, birds chirping and insects humming in park. Very peaceful. Thought I might hide out here for the rest of the day. - Tai Chi
Had an elderly lady join me on the bench and saw a couple of men (one a bald-headed monk) practicing Tai Chi in the gravel. Actually, I saw a lot of people practicing tai chi in the parks). The monk moved gracefully into martial arts and did a fantastic, full-body kick while I was packing up to leave. I was quite impressed. Started trying to find a way out of the park (without retracing my steps). Passed a playground in the shape of a fallen U.S. space capsule (strange). - More Chinese-style bathrooms:
Park bathrooms were solely squat-style, so I was glad I had the Botanical Gardens as a practice ground yesterday. Took more stairs up and found a path leading next to an apartment complex and down to... the front of the Booth Lodge. Serendipity! - Salvation Army Thrift Store
Stopped at the Salvation Army used clothing store and picked up a gorgeous light blue & tan brocade silk miniskirt, a black velvet turtleneck, a sequined purse, two Chinese grammar workbooks and a book on logarithmic tables. Got a free pen too, all for $60. - Rest of the Day/Night
Returned back to my room and showered. Watching TV when fuse blew (not me, I swear!) Called recepetion and had them switch my power back on. I suspect the construction ouside blew it. Went to bed at the embarassingly early hour of 2 p.m. Was planning on heading out for dinner, but I slept soundly until 11 p.m. Woke, brushed teeth and crawled back under the covers. Slept until 3:30 a.m., when I woke up for good. - Telefishon & Chinese Ads
Watched "Telefishon" - fish swimming around on TV to soothing music, and wrote up my notes. Late night commercials: Daniel Wu telling me to donate blood ("Stop making excuses!"), a guy who looked like Nic Tse luring water and fish out of their bowls for his wonderful soft drink. Subway sign: a white devil with a cell phone, toeing that fine line between intriguing/offensive.
WEDNESDAY
March 20, 2002:
- Breakfast at Booth Lodge #3
Went down too early (7:10 a.m.) and had eggs, tomato, lettuce and green onions on whole wheat bread, salty sesame noodles, orange juice and coffee. Music this morning was startingly familiar: "Stand By Your Man", "House of the Rising Sun" and "Love is Blue". As the sugary, creamy coffee hit, I could tell that it was going to be a good day. - MTR to Shau Kei Wan
Took the MTR to Shau Kei Wan station/bus depot. Noted the gathering of people underneath the highway (flea market? morning gossip?) Found the #9 bus to Shek-O (last on the lot) and sat on the iron railings with a group of Chinese men, none of whom spoke any English, for about 10-15 minutes. - Double-decker red bus
First time riding on a double-decker bus! Sat upstairs for a thoroughy delightful ride around a curvy trail through the mountains. I was a bit worried about finding the start to the Dragon's Back trail, but I found the stairs leading up (next to a Hong Kong National Park sign and a group of construction workers) near a turn-off for Cape Collision Road. - Garden of Remembrance & Crematorium
Before heading up the long, narrow stairs, I checked out a colorfully painted pagoda (red, sea green & yellow) near the turnoff for the crematorium (ominous sign, right before a long hike). It turns out it overlooked a hillside of stone graves - there must have been several thousand people buried along the hills. Many of the shrines had small offerings (burnt incense, paper, etc). Solemnly payed my respects to the dead and left. - Stairs Leading to the Hong Kong Trail
Climbed up the stairs to find a curved road and a prison with barbed wire over the top. Took a left at the road (as per the instructions), and came to a locked gate. Came close to scrapping the whole hiking idea, but I noticed there was human-sized gaps at either end of the gate. Hoping that I wasn't breaking into the penitentary, I walked around the gaps and found a couple practicing tai chi (good sign!) I greeted them (both smiled at me), and continued on to the end of the mini-road. - Hong Kong Trail
At the end of the mini-road, I saw a map for the National Park, including the trail I was supposed to take. There was a sign in English & Chinese telling us to pack our garbage with us - that there were no trash receptacles for the next section. Lucky me - I just had a purse with a map of Hong Kong, sunglasses, money, a camera and some breath mints on me :-) Started following the dirt path through the jungle. It was starting to warm up and get humid (around 9 a.m.), so I changed into a short-sleeved shirt.
View from the Hong Kong Trail
- "Jo san!" (Good Morning!)
Met an elderly man along the path who greeted me in Chinese ("Jo san!") Happily startled, I greeted him back in Chinese. Thought about this for the next 10-15 minutes or so, quite pleased with myself (it was the first, last and only time in Hong Kong that someone assumed I'd understand Cantonese. I don't, but it was a sweet moment and made me feel less like a complete outsider). I'm such a nerd. - Alone with Thoughts
For the next half hour, things were going great. The dirt-covered path crossed river beds, ran uphill and through jungles. Saw a bit of trash along the sides of the path and considered picking it up, but I wasn't sure how long I'd be walking (and I didn't have a backpack or any place to store it). Vowed that the next time I took the path, I'd pick up the trash. Gorgeous views of a beach through the dense foilage, and I was making good time walking, as the path was flat and clean. - Pride Goeth...
Unfortunately, I got too cocky and tripped over an exposed tree root, skinning my knee through the jeans. Got up, brushed myself off, and realized that it would be very, very bad if I were to break a leg out on the path. Decided to spend a bit more time and caution on the walk, as the last person I'd seen was about two miles in the opposite direction of me. I slowed the pace down and started paying attention to the ground, jungle, and sounds of cars and voices (no one on path, but I heard a couple of guys talking in Cantonese below the path - probably on the road to Shek O). - Post #90 Marker
At post #90, I started looking for the path up to the Dragon's Back. Nothing for quite awhile, and I was starting to despair that I was even on the right path (despite the directions, map at the beginning, and path marker), when I saw a clearly marked dirt slope leading up (it looked like a rain culvert, studded with red, crumbling walks). The Hong Kong Parks Department kindly placed a sign pointing up the path for neurotic hikers who think they're on the wrong path.
The Dragon's Back
- The Dragon's Back
Scrambled up the cliff (steep & exposed), stopping once to catch my breath. At the top, I saw a sign for the start of the hike. Turned right at the sign and started walking on the Dragon's Back. Almost immediately, the path sloped uphill (again!). This time, it was a bit steeper, still with the crumbly red rocks. Followed the path, ignoring the flies, observing the dragonflies, and admiring the birds swooping on the air currents next to me. Once I got to the top of the first peak, I had a gorgeous panoramic view of the beach that I'd seen on the Hong Kong trail (off to my right), and the South China Seas and nearby islands (off to my left). Breathtaking views on both sides.
View from The Dragon's Back (Left)
- More of The Dragon's Back
Along the path, I could hear sounds from below (shipping sounds and a pounding) - sound carries far. I was also on alert when I smelled fire, thinking that being trapped on a path, high in the mountains, several miles from the road would be extremely bad. Fortunately, the vegetation around me was all green (Spring) and I detected that the fire was from a house down below that was burning wood. I offered a silent prayer for safe passage, thanking the gods of the land (never hurts). This was becoming an oddly spiritual hike, and I'm not a spiritual sort of gal.
View from The Dragon's Back (Right)
- Quiet Contemplation
Along the way, I came to three places to rest - benches, a stone pillar & large rock and sign. Stopped at the stone pillar rest area for fifteen minutes, catching my breath and enjoying the view. Wondered what places my Great Aunt Bertha visited when she went to Hong Kong. Thought about my dead relatives and wished them luck, wherever they were. Thought about my own mortality. Sent good wishes off towards my (living) family back home, across the South China Seas. Thought again how oddly spiritual this rugged walk was turning out to be. So many spirits buried so close by, and not another living soul for miles.
Resting Place on Dragon's Back
- Denoument
Continued on the dirt path through the bamboo to the end (clearly marked with a bench). Sat on the bench for a bit, sad that the walk was over. It was an absolutely lovely climb, complete with misty mountains, stone stairs, and ships that resembled pirate vessels, all seen through the mist. Very fantastical. Found a gathering of large stones halfway down, and stairs carved out of the stones further. Emerged at the bottom of the path on the road, with bus stops running into and out of Shek O. - Shek O
Decided to take the bus into Shek O after the hike (although anything would have been anti-climatic). Was pleased to notice there was an emergency phone at the bus stop. Got off at the bus station and wandered around the small streets and a lot of tough-looking food places (corrugated metal shingles, seafood, plastic chairs & men in grimy white tank tops). Decided that I'd hide out in Shek O if I were a Triad member in desperate need of a cover.
Shek O
- Shek O Beach
Finally found the beach (small, clean and gorgeous). Took off my boots, rolled up my jeans and waded in the ocean. Saw a man in a black Speedo taking out a kayak to one of the nearby rafts. Decided that the next time I hiked the Dragon's Back, I'd wear my swimsuit underneath my clothes. While wading and cooling off my tired feet, my jean bottoms got thoroughly soaked and covered with sand. Came in from the water and sat on the sand (clocks on the mostly-deserted beach) for awhile, but the sun was bright and I had to pee. Realizing that I shouldn't go barefoot in the toilets, I brushed the sand off, sadly strapped on my boots and used the (Chinese-style) bathrooms on the beach.
Shek O Bus Stop
- Refreshments & Return
The walk in the mountains and the wade in the salt water had dehydrated me, so I found a local store selling Coke and tea. Picked up a cold ginseng tea in bottle for $10. The elderly lady spoke no English and we figured out the price through pantomime. Drank the tea and headed back to the bus stop, where I bought a can of coffee from the vending machine for $5.50. Decided that I liked dealing with machines better than people. Caught the bus back to Shau Kei Wan - same amazing trip, and I had a front-seat view on the top floor of the double-decker bus. On the way back, I saw the entire side of the mountain covered with Chinese graves. At Shau Kei Wan, I briefly considered exploring, but, fearing a reprisal of the depression of Causeway Bay shopping, I caught the MTR back to Central instead. - Repulse Bay (no sharks)
Caught bus #6A at Central to Stanley (via Repulse Bay). Bus passed by Happy Valley Racecourse, Aberdeen and Repulse Bay. Since Repulse Bay looked like a ritzy, upperclass beach, I kept wondering why I had the connections "sharks" and "Repulse Bay" in my head. Thought about the sharks munching on the wealthy bathers of the Bay, which (I'm sad to say) caused me to chuckle a bit. It wasn't until I got back home and ran it through my sister that I realized I was thinking about a line from "Miss Saigon" ("Don't worry about the sharks in Repulse Bay; the pirates taking you are more scary anyway.") Strange which ideas will pop into your head.. - Stanley Market
After about 30-45 minutes of severe winding and bright sun, the bus finally made it to Stanley Village. Couldn't tell if it was the heat or the swaying of the bus (or both), but I was feeling slightly queasy when I got off. Wandered around the marketplace of Stanley and decided that it was where all the British, Australian and U.S. people go to shop (although I thought "gweilo" instead. Even though I am one - gweipor, actually - I don't like to consider myself one). At that time, I started a serious search for a bathroom (posted signs lied horribly and pointed to a park with no facilities. I finally managed to find a place further down the boardwalk on the beach - squat toilets, which I was beginning to use almost automatically). Decided to myself that Stanley Market was where fun in Hong Kong went to die. - Salvation Army (Take 2)
Stopped in the Salvation Army (rapidly becoming a theme) in Stanley to browse and enjoy the air-conditioning (it was becoming uncomfortably hot and humid outside). Picked up a fish-scale sequined tank top, a semi-transparent gray turtleneck, a completely see-through black dress, a dark gray beaded purse, a Chinese lion ink stick and a funky-smelling medicinal rub (eucalyptus, menthol and cloves, which smelled a whole lot better than I did). Total cost: $90. God bless the Salvation Army - fire and blood and all. - Zebra Ice Cream
Having been revived with the A/C, I stopped in at 7-11 (another constant theme) and picked up a 'zebra' ice cream bar (stripes of chocolate and vanilla). Sat on a bench in the shade, eating ice cream and watching people wander around in the heat. Figured out that I didn't want to hang around Stanley any more, so I caught the bus back to Central, seeing the Happy Valley Racecourse and schoolkids in uniform. - Pret à Manger
At Central, I stopped at Pret à Manger and reminisced happily about my trip to London. The kind British guy behind the counter seemed absolutely delighted to see a scraggly U.S. gal wandering around, and asked me if I wanted any coffee (bless him; I think I fell slighly in love with him). Picked up a decidedly non-Chinese lunch/dinner: a smoked salmon sandwich with cream cheese, capers, lettuce, cucumbers & tomatoes, and an orange/raspberry juice. Grabbed my goodies and hopped the Star Ferry back to Kowloon and the MTR back to the hotel. - Evening Plans:
Spread my goodies on the bed, added some chocolate mints that I was planning on taking home as a gift and a package of fried peanuts (extremely tasty) from the fridge, and ate my make-shift dinner. Took a shower to wipe off the sea salt and grime and watched Beetleborgs (in Cantonese). Starting to stiffen up (I cranked my A/C) and was unable to walk without wincing, so I scrapped my evening plans of hitting the Temple Street Night Market for dinner & shopping. Settled in for a night of "Daria" and the news (there was a recall of certain brands of Pocky on the Hong Kong market. We just don't get these stories in the U.S.).
Thursday
March 21, 2002:
- Breakfast at Booth #4:
Last Full Day in Hong Kong
Went down for my odd Booth breakfast of hot dogs, cucumers with tartar sauce, rice crispies with reconstituted soy milk, toast, OJ and coffee (I was doing the American side; my fault). - Wellcome
Stopped at Wellcome (grocery store) for gifts. O.K. I know most people don't stop in the supermarket for gifts home, but most people also don't visit two thrift stores in the space of three days. Picked up: Chinese plum wine ($39, so you know it's going to be good), three flavors of lip balm (apple, lemon and black currant, for $18.90 each), Thai seasonings ($7.90), milk tea ($17.50), bath gel ($5.40), fried peanuts ($3.10) and a tasteful tin of MSG ($5.40). Got a cheap rush from buying MSG in the store, which probably means that I should avoid the hot CD-ROM market up in northern Kowloon. - Jade Market
Stopped by the Jade Market (so close to my hotel!), a series of stalls underneath a ramshackle corrugated tin roof. There were a couple of policemen posted outside, a tiny kitty cat taking a nap next to a pile of discarded noodles, and a bunch of tourists entering, so I figured I found the right place. Since it was early (9 a.m.), most vendors were still setting up stalls. Joined a Chinese couple and found a place to sit on a stool and sift through beautifully carved small pieces, all for $10 each. Picked up a couple of pieces for myself. Payed the vendor, then wandered through the rest of the market. Saw a woman selling a gorgeous jade and silver bottle for $280 (she first typed out $320 on a calculator, shook her head, and marked it down to $280). Since the Hong Kong Tourism Board and all guidebooks post dire warnings about spending money in the market if you don't know jade, I politely turned her down (plus it would have depleted my stash of spare cash). Considering it afterwards, I should have picked up the bottle & hit the ATM again - I was in Hong Kong to spend money, and it was a really neat-looking bottle. Moral of this story: don't always do what the guidebooks say. Live your own life and take your own damn risks. - Tung Chung
Caught the MTR to Tung Chung on Lantau, a comfortably suburban stop on Lantau. There was a giant, multiplex movie theatre, a shopping mall, tons of clean apartment complexes and a parking lot. In other words, extremely commercial and (for me) extremely comfortable. I was starting to feel the deep itch of culture shock (or poor nutrition and random sleep, take your pick). - Most-Frightening Experience
Ironic that the clean, glossy mall should preceed the scariest encounter I had in Hong Kong: the portable bathrooms. After the multitudes of squat toilets in parks, I felt strong enough and brave enough to tackle the Chinese port-a-potty. O.K. First problem: since the entire stall is only seven feet high, I would have needed to stand on a three foot ledge with four foot clearance. Hence, I'd need to stand and hunker. I was up for that, but what that ledge was hovering above scared the hell out of me (hovering unstably above raw sewage). Second problem: no running water or toilet paper anywhere to be found. I can't believe they've designed these things for women - I think only men pee in them. I emerged from the small stall white and shaking, vowing that I'd rather pee behind a shrub than use a squat port-a-potty. Truly terrifying. - Bus #23 to Po Lin
Got in line for the #23 bus to the Giant Buddha. It was a bit pricier than most buses I'd taken ($25, I believe), which I wondered about as I calculated the remaining amount on my Octopus card. Turns out that it was a loong bus ride (45 minutes to an hour), meandering through the mountains and approaching the Giant Buddha from a roundabout angle.
Big Buddha on Lantau Island
- Po Lin Monastery & Tiantan (Giant) Buddha
The Giant Buddha was neat, even with the swastika carved on it; I know - holy symbol for the heart of Buddha used long before the time of the Nazis. Found a bathroom nearby - perhaps the cleanest, nicest bathroom I'd used in years (black marble, art deco decor, clean, cool, elegant). Returned to the Giant Buddha and considered climbing the stairs to the top, but my way was blocked. In order to climb the stairs, you have to purchase a vegetarian meal made by the monks at the Po Lin Monastery. I was planning on doing this anyway (all the guide books mention it), but I became suddenly quite obstinate. Bought a box of apple juice from a vending machine and sat in the shade of a tree, pondering my options. - SG Davis Youth Hostel & Bauhinia blossoms
Found a path up to the S.G. Davis Youth Hostel (looked like a great place to stay) and a park for the Bauhinia trees (blossoms used on Hong Kong currency). Wandered up to the Po Lin Monastery, where I watched people burning incense for their loved ones, then came to a couple conclusions: 1) I'm not Chinese, and 2) I'm not Buddhist. Decided that the temple was not for me, and that I'd pretty much exhausted all the fun of the delightful bathroom, so I caught the bus back to Tung Chung. - Stopped by the Police
Halfway through the mountains, the bus was stopped by the police and all of us were checked for papers. I was the only foreign person aboard (everything conducted in Cantonese), and I nervously handed the officer my passport. He checked the photo, made sure I had the Hong Kong entry stamp and handed it back to me. It reminded me a lot of train checkpoints in East Germany back when the wall was up, which made me wonder if it was the mainland Chinese police instead of the Hong Kong police, checking for illegal immigrants. In any case, the rest of the ride was rather quiet and subdued afterwards. - Citygate Mallrat
Off the bus, I wandered around the Citygate Mall ("Life as it Should Be") in Lantau, that bright, clean mall with the multiplex movie threatres (too early for any showings). Marvelled at the clean, white, open spaces. Visited the (clean, white, open) bathrooms and considered dining at a (clean, white, delightful) Thai restaurant, although the addition of "iced green bean juice" on the menu kind of startled me. - Star Ferry, Last Time
Decided against the Thai restaurant (I had an ulterior motive) and caught the MTR back to Central, and the Star Ferry back to Kowloon. Noticed more U.S. tourists on the Star Ferry, this time around (new batch)? Most of them hadn't figured out the utter convenience of the Octopus card, and were scrambling around for exact change and tickets. - Gen-X Cops
Taking self-amusing to new depths, I rejected the spirituality of the Po Lin vegetarian meal and the cool classiness of the Thai restaurant in Citygate and treated myself to.... the T.G.I. Friday's in Kowloon. It's entirely because of Gen-X Cops, you realize. I took four escalators up, and climbed some rickety old wood stairs to find... a T.G.I. Friday's that looked exactly like the ones in the U.S. (actually, I've never been to the ones in the U.S.). I was seated at a perfectly nice table with a view of Nathan Road in air-conditioned splendor and served a prompt iced tea with free refills. - T.G.I. Friday's
T.G.I. Friday's is where all the American folks hide in Kowloon, and that ain't necessarily a good thing. I think if I were a HK Triad leader, I'd eat here just for the whole kitsch factor. Ordered a salad with blue cheese dressing and a Jack Daniels burger, which tasted a whole lot better once I scraped off the pineapple, drowned the meat in ketchup and used the sauce for the fries instead. Actually, the whole dining experience, which should have been godawful, was actually very soothing - kind waitresses and relaxed atmosphere. I'm unironically fond of the T.G.I. Friday's in Hong Kong. - Shopping on Nathan Road
Stopped at a previously-unseen VCD place offering their wares for $15 each! (DVD's slightly more expensive). Picked up: Storm Riders, Gen-X Cops (the theme, you know), The Bride with White Hair & Young and Dangerous: The Prequel. Total cost: $60. I had a helpful worker trying to foist off titles on me. I didn't have the heart to tell her that, lately, my taste in Hong Kong cinema ran primarily towards the pretty boys (Nicholas Tse, Ekin Cheng, etc.) How does one say "shallow" in Cantonese? - Cosmos Books
After happily picking up VCD's, I stopped in Cosmos Books and picked up a book on dim sum snacks, some origami paper for Morgan and a ring of pretty, multi-colored pins for Mom (suspected they might be confiscated at the airport). Figured I'd call it a day... at least for now. - Denoument
Returned to my hotel room, showered and packed. Plan for tonight: Temple Street Night Market (take 2). Planned on picking up Hong Kong t-shirts and more VCD's. Unfortunately, plans abrubtly derailed when I fell asleep. Never found intricate carvings for Mom... or hot software titles for Joey... or designer rip-off clothes for Morgan.
Friday
March 22, 2002:
- Final Booth Lodge Breakfast
Friday morning: final breakfast. Checkout of Booth Lodge was noon; my flight was at 3:30 p.m. Headed down for breakfast at 8:00 a.m. and sadly dished up congee, noodles, eggs and toast. Toasted the Lodge goodbye with my milk & sugar coffee. I've become such a regular that the banquet guy doesn't even check my registration card. Passed by a couple of nice, elderly U.S. women talking about Hong Kong at the table nearby, and mentally wished them well. Figured I was passing on my travel baton to them. - Final Walk to Harbour
Tons of time left even before checkout, so I headed down Nathan Road for a final view of Hong Kong harbour. Kept an eye out for the VCD place (I'd made up my mind to pick up a stack with my remaining money), but it was locked shut. Nathan Road really opens up in the afternoon/evening. Sat on the bench at the Cultural Centre and stared over the water, thinking about how much I really liked Hong Kong. Watched as a park worker shooed away a guy taking a nap on the bench next to me. Watched, bemused, as an Indian guy in a turban told me that May was going to be a lucky month for me (it is: it will be my birthday), and did I want to get a full reading from him? I politely declined. Decided it was just about time to leave, so I cast a final, longing glance towards the mountains and headed back up Nathan Road. - Jade Market, Take 2
Still hours before checkout time, I decided to return to the Jade Market and pick up a bag of jade carvings for family and friends. The nice thing about the Jade Market is that it has all sorts of sparkly stones for sale - not just jade. I found the same stall I had visited before with the $10 pieces and hunched down, sorting through the carvings. An American woman in front of me was already buying a couple of pieces from the vendor. I watched her haggle them down to about 50-75% the price ("See? I'm so poor! Not much money."), then went back to my selection. After picking out ten pieces, the vendor headed over to me, somewhat resigned (he'd seen me watching the other woman bargain the price down). I blithely handed him a $100 bill, smiled, and bid him farewell - no haggling. He burst out into a grin, realizing I wasn't going to haggle, and I left happily, having, I suspect, utterly made his day by paying full price. - Why Didn't I Haggle the Price?
- I don't like dealing with people on that level. In order to haggle, you have to be willing to manipulate emotions ("I'm poor; you're rich") and to assume that you deserve a better price (buying in quantity, offering cash, etc) than another customer. It takes time and energy, and you have to enjoy doing it. I can do it - and I'm not bad at it - but I don't enjoy it.
- I thought the price he set down initially was quite reasonable. HK$10 is about $1.28 each. Jade is an incredibly tough stone, and the carvings were deep and interesting, sometimes with interlocking pieces. If the price wasn't so cheap to begin with, I wouldn't have bought from him at all.
- I didn't need the jade - it was purely a luxury item for gifts. I'd been low-balling pretty much everything (hotel and food) up to this point, and there's a time to be cheap in life and a time to spend money. This, I thought, was a time to spend money - a whole whopping $12.80 of it.
- This is tricky, but I didn't feel like the vendor thought I was a sucker for paying full price (he might have, but I didn't get that vibe from him). We had a brief moment of mutual understanding: he knew that I didn't want to bargain the price down, and was privately amused by that. My personal dignity was retained.
- It made me happy for an hour afterwards thinking about my decision. Two people happy - it's easily worth $5 or $10. And I still don't regret not haggling. I'm so weird.
- Checkout of Booth Lodge
Time to bid Booth Lodge a fond farewell. My room rate per day was $400, with an extra $40 added for tax. Snacks (chocolate, fried peanuts, mineral water & coke) ran me an extra $100. Total damage: HK$2,300 ($294) for five days (or $58/day). Things I'll remember about Booth Lodge: boiling water for tea every day, 10 channels of Cantonese/English programs, free Hong Kong calendar, buffet breakfast, smell of cedar & old smoke in room and the noise of the A/C. Would I return? Probably (the place is cheap and everyone is very friendly), but I think I'd rather split the bill with someone else and splurge on a room at the Salisbury YMCA the next time around. The thought of a swimming pool and fresh basket of fruit makes me very, very happy. - Tsing Ma Bridge
Hopped the A21 bus to the airport, a block from Booth Lodge. I definitely should have used the bus on the way in - much more convenient than the Airport Express & MTR. Cost of the bus: $33, and it crossed the beautiful Tsing Ma Bridge. - Hong Kong Airport
Arriving at an ungodly early time at the airport (11 a.m. for a 3:30 p.m. flight), I killed time after checkin by picking up a coffee beverage at the Pacific Coffee Company. Kindly, they provided comfortable, sofa-style chairs for their patrons, as well as a large-screen TV showing the news. I gave the evil eye to a set of kids playing around on the Internet terminals, but they blithely ignored me. Decided that I'd be spending a good 17 hours sitting and that I'd better do some walking around, so I started exploring the main terminal (before security). Found some great gift stores, a toy store and a candy store. Picked up a couple of Chinese magazines (Cosmopolitan & GQ) and a gorgeous copy of the Hobbit (black, with red and silver markings) for $78 (I'd forgotton how expensive full-priced paperbacks are these days). It was probably my most extravagant purchase. - Banana Leaf Curry House
Lunchtime approached, and I still hadn't gone through security (I was completely checked in). Decided that I needed to pick up some hot food and sit down for awhile, so I visited the Banana Leaf Curry House restaurant in the airport (I'd been meaning to visit the one in Kowloon, but never made it). Since bloodsugar was crashing, I picked the first thing that caught my eye: a heaping bowl of seafood (lobster, crab, shrimp, fish & octopus) in a warm, white gravy, covering a pile of rice & egg. Picked up a chocolate soy milk drink and found a booth completely to myself. Started in on the bowl before I realized that this was the second (and last) time I'd use chopsticks in Hong Kong. Strange. The food was delicious and just what I needed, and I took special pleasure in crunching down on a purple octopus tentacle sticking out of the bowl. Ate every last bit of rice & that wonderful gravy, and decided that I finally had the strength to go through security. - Pre-Flight Relaxation
Nothing much happened through security, and I made my way to the gate (via an underground subway) with no incident. Picked up water and Blue Mountain coffee from the vendor, tore open a package of Japanese candy (kiwi gummy triangles) and settled in for a long wait. Airport was pleasantly air-conditioned and I had a gorgeous view of the misty mountains of Lantau surrounding the airport. Settled in, sighed, and bid Hong Kong a final farewell. - Hong Kong to New York (via Vancouver)
Or how to visit three countries spanning half the globe in less than three hours by crossing the International Date Line. The flight back was much, much easier to deal with. I don't know if I was getting used to the travel, or if the 17 hours (instead of 20 hours) made a difference, but the time passed fairly pleasantly. Beware of the young, female seat-hoppers trying to lure aisle people into switching to a window or center seat - they're obnoxious as hell (and were there on both sides of the trip). - Airline Food: From Hong Kong
Favorite Appetizer: Chicken & Corn Salad
Second Favorite Appetizer: Thai Style Shrimp Cocktail.
Most British: Breakfast Omelette, Grilled Sausage, Broiled Tomato & Button Mushrooms
Semi-Disappointment: Sliced Beef in Oyster Sauce with Egg Noodles & Stir-Fried Pak Choy (too dry)
Dessert: Mango Cheesecake & Coconut Sponge Cake
