Du-Par's

12036 Ventura @Laurel Cyn (just east), Studio City, 818/766-4437

Farmer's Market 6333 W. Third @Fairfax, 213/933-8446

Du Par's Web Site

A Valley institution since 1948, there used to be a Du-Par's where the now-blaring Jerry's Famous Deli screeches from Ventura and Petit. We used to go there every Saturday for breakfast when I was a kid. You could tell the waitresses had been there since the day the place opened, and the decor was the same too. I loved it. They made and still make the fluffiest omelette I've ever eaten (they say it's 3 eggs, I say it's a potential choesterol overload, but what the heck, you don't see it stopping me). Get it with extra cheese to balance out the equation if you go that way. And with the toast make sure you get the pomegranate jam. I always thought it was strawberry (but better), and then a waiter accidentally clued me in. I now have to enjoy this at the Studio City location, which, by the by, has some of the same waitresses as well, and is just as much like stepping out of time, in case you were worried.

I'm warning you in advance here -- the service at Du-Par's ranges from good to so awful that you could throw your ailing body in the aisle without extracting a blink out of a server. We have boycotted the place for months at a time (but not during pumpkin pie season). It seems to be worst when there's no one around and better when the place has a slight crowd, and lately it's been better, but you were warned: don't go there if your food-o-meter needle is pointing to E and you've only got minute to go before collapsing on the floor.

The specialty at Du-Pars is and always has been pancakes and french toast served "piping hot" ($5.25). They are still the very best there is anywhere. Testament to this fact is the weekend lines nearly out the door. Avoid this crowd, because they come with a Screaming Children and Cell-Phone Talking Obnoxious Parent Garnish. This will severely diminish the flavor of everything. And if you're getting the french toast, ask for it double-dipped -- they dip it in the eggs for longer, and it's not so bready and twice as moist when it arrives (my mother got me hooked on this method -- blame her). If you're not ravenous, or you love dessert, order a short stack (3 pancakes or french toasts instead of 5) and keep reading.

Pumpkin Pie. The best there is anywhere and I've looked everywhere. No one can touch it. The closest relative is at True Confections, and that's in Vancouver, BC, okay? Order it, don't share, get it with whipped cream ($2.65, $3.65 with whipped cream but half the time they don't charge for it; go figure). It's just the best anywhere. We order whole pies for Thanksgiving (Steven usually asks that we get an extra one for later) early, and pick up that day. It's a phenomenon. Their other pies are excellent as well, particularly the apple, and the "cheese" pie. Do not be fooled. Cheese pie? It's more like cheese cake, and they'd sell more if they made that known. Cheese pie sounds like a Velveeta concoction on a crust. Maybe that appeals to some of you. Who knows.

Aside from the mountainous breakfasts, Du-Pars offers a wide menu, and if you're not counting calories I would recommend (believe it or not), the fajitas ($8.25) which come with all the usual grilled veggies and tortillas plus beans and rice and a salad. I also like the chicken salad sandwich on raisin-cinnamon bread ($5.95) and the turkey and avocado sandwich is always fresh and wonderful ($7.45). The sandwiches come with french fries or potato salad -- the french fries are the skinny, not overly potatoey kind. Don't love 'em, but order the potato salad anyway and get yourself some pie instsead. If you want something to really soothe you from head to toe, get the amazing Chicken Pot Pie ($6.45 -- and a deal because it comes with soup or salad...and..see below).

Another hint that only locals know: when you order a dinner salad, they will bring you a dinner roll or their wonderful date nut bread, but only if you ask. It's a Don't Ask Don't Get policy.

They also have the most uniquely cakey doughnuts and date nut bread if you feel like giving them a swing or taking one to go for later.

Back to MagPie for more more more!