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Actually managed to get a start by 9. The threat of midday heat really got us going. Noticed another cycling trio, comprised of the thinnest couple we have seen on our trip and a more substantial friend. They were such a spectacle with their thin limbs and cycle tans that we nicknamed the couple sticklady (stix for short) and Wednesday (gonna break?).
Made our way allong several lakes to a place called Lecco. Very nice cycling and scenary of dillapidated villages which would look slummish anywhere other than Italy.
Got a bit lost in Lecco looking for a supermarket so we could get something to eat. By the time we found one we were starving and decided to cook up our food in the outside courtyard of the shopping centre. This offended the security guard who came to tell us not to cook there half way through our cooking activities. Tried to explain that stopping mid way would ruin the food but he wasn't interested. Moved to a spot a few metres away.
Later in the afternoon, we conducted our usual search for an internet connection and made our way to the local library. The librarian we met was a true exception that proves the rule. Really friendly and helpful (of course we have another such exception in the family) - she allowed us to use her connection for a couple of days worth updating free of charge.
We left Lecco once it had started to cool down (from around 35 degrees to 30) and made our way to a campsite indicated on the map. Cycled for a couple of kms to find no campsite. After about 20kms of riding aimlessly through the area, we stopped to ask a local. He and his girlfriend (wife, sister or cousin) took us all the way to a campsite which we had driven passed but had not noticed as it was not indicated as such. Quite a challenge to keep up with an Italian driver at the end of a full day of cycling, but we did it. They then assisted us in a negotiation with the campsite owners who at first insisted that they were full, but finally relented and gave us an area behind a bungalow. So nice of these guys that we offered to buy them a beer. They declined our offer unfortunately.
Tried to cook supper only to find that we had run out of petrol in our stove(we recently acquired a new stove that works off unleaded petrol). Amnon made his way to a nearby petrol station to fill up but could not - the minumum purchase was ?0,000. In then end, he gave up and came back to a supper of stale bread and honey and biscuits.
To add to our woes, many, many slugs (great big juicy ones - about the size and thickness of a stubby thumb) some of which found their way into our tent storage bag. Had to scrape them out.
Also, squat toilets and jetton (token) operated showers which give water for a couple of minutes regardless of your state of lather. Definately not a good day.
Saw Stix and Wednesday to our amusement. Always something to make us smile.
Daily total : 83kms
Managed to get going fairly early. Amnon was on his way to pay when he informed Illana that he could not find the jetton for the showers (we received this plastic jetton the previous evening. It records how many showers we had had and for which we would have to pay). This despite the two of us being very careful to place the jetton in the map bag. While planning the route for the day, Amnon appeared to have thrown caution and the jetton to the wind, leaving us with the likelihood of having to pay millions of £s for showers we had not had. Searched the place, and swept aside much dust to no avail with the temperature rising noticeably all the while. Finally decided that Amnon would have to go and plead for mercy from the reception people. Illana was seriously pissed off, both at the thought of having to pay for showers she had not had, when her shower the previous evening was rather short and ended with a cold spell, and because it was already hot and there were many kms to cycle.
Turned out Amnon had placed the jetton in his pocket after all. As a punishment Amnon had to be in front for the whole way.
Made our way to a town called Bergamo. The ride was terrible - like cycling through 60kms of Midrand during peak hour traffic in a chamsin. Cycling in this region is to be avoided at all costs.
Bergamo was really nice to see. Spent a few hours wondering around the altte citta (upper [not old - got a bit confused with Yiddish] city - pity about the hill) with has a number of things to see. Went into one of the cathedrals which has a magniifcent guilded cieling. Cooked and ate lunch discretely in quite little park in order not to offend the locals.
Cycled 10 kms to a dump called Dalmine where there were less pricey hotels as there were no campsites in the area. Found an adequate hotel for a couple of hundred million Lira (Illana has no idea what is going on), but there was no aircon. Enjoyed a long shower and managed to sleep despite the heat.
Daily total : 66kms
Tried to check out the hotel to find we were a couple of hundred thousand Lira short. Delayed our departure a little.
Another horrible day of cycling. We have now spent enough time in the country to make a couple of ovbservations: Italians shout a lot. Not out of anger necessarily. They are just very enthusiastic communicators. Hence their love of opera - a very enthusiastic way of singing. They also eat horse meat or they feed it to their pets. In any event it is available in the shops for general consumption. There is an entire hooting (honking for Americans) language which can be a bit disconcerting for the uninitiated cyclist; a short hoot is just a way of saying, "hi, I am behind you so don't do anything stupid", whereas a longer, more aggressive hoot means "get out of the way you stupid idiot cycling through this country in the heat". The italians are also not too fastidious about the distance indicators they provide on the road signs. For example, you notice a sign that says you have 30kms to go to Milano. A few minutes later on the same road, there is a sign that says Milano is now 19 kms away. Then it is back up to 33kms. Must be because everything is denominated in hundreds of thousands, so no one misses a few digits here or there. They also have bars at many petrol station. Obviously no too worried about driving under the influence. Probably rekon it can only improve things. Finally, the pavements are made out of very soft tar (or putty). We parked our laden bikes for a while and found the wheel had left permanent indentations in the tar.
Anyway, back to the trip. Cycled allong to Milan. Very, very ugly entrance to the city. Tried to contact the chabad community but with no luck. It seems that the community has closed down for the month of August in Milan. A very good idea not to be in this city at this time of the year. Trust us. After fruitless attempts at contacting anyone in the community, we made our way to tourist information and got the address of the big shul.
The next challenge was to find a reasonably priced hotel. After looking at some serious dives within our budget we decided we would have to dig a little deeper and get a room with aircon at least. Found a place called Hotel Canada (perhaps Canada sounds nice to Italians) where we got a good rate for the room, or so we thought.
Once we had installed ourselves comfortably and were marvelling at the conveniences offered by a 3 star hotel, we noticed that the rate for the room was 70% more expensive than we thought we were paying. Broke out into a cold sweat for a bit but then resolved ourselves to an expensive weekend and got ready for shul. On the way out we checked the price again to find that we were in luck and had managed to get a great discount. Well done.
Shul was quite nice. Illana made up a trio of women and Amnon just missed scoring the minyan goal. The building is beautiful and the singing was very operatic. No familiar tunes until yigdal and adon olam. No invite was forthcoming. Pity. Nevertheless we made do in our comfortable room.
Daily total : 62kms
Went back to shul and got rained on in the process. Welcome relief from the humidity. A much bigger turnout and Amnon got an aliya (the 4th person to get an aliya for the same bit - wonder why they did that). Went to the kiddush afterwards which was a smaller affair than usual because of the holidays.
After shul we walked around the duomo - the most impressive cathdral from the outside that we have seen.
Went back to the hotel to snack (quite a challenge to get in and out with the automatic doors. A lot of waiting for other unsuspecting guests.) and shloff. Illana went for a walk on her own (as Amnon needed more sleep) and was treated to the usual irritations that plague single women in Italian cities. Men here are not too discerning when it comes to women (shoes are another matter).
After shabbat we went looking for a kosher restaurant and cycled across the city to find one. After a good while of looking we could not find it (perhaps they knew we were coming and went underground) and returned hungry and disappointed to the room. Ate crackers instead of pizza.
Daily total : 15kms
Checked out the hotel and convinced them to charge us the full amount after we noticed that they had under-charged us by half. They were under the impression that we had paid a deposit, which we hadn't. Idiots for not accepting a windfall with grace.
Cycled south. After about 20kms the countryside emerged to our relief. Also, much less traffic because it is Sunday. Nothing is open with the exception of a few coffee shops.
Got to a pretty town called Piacenza where we stopped for a late lunch / early supper in the square. Quite nice if you are in the area.
Cycled another 20kms to a place called Rivergaro where there was supposed to be a campsite. Of course there were no signs at all and we had to ask a couple of locals for directions. Not a quiet spot to say the least. A large Italian family, all related to the Bundy's from Love and Marriage, were having a get together right near the tent section of the campsite. Very loud music (head banging stuff) and even louder conversation. Problem went away on its own without needing intervention.
Daily total : 98kms
Left Rivergaro after consulting some other locals about the correct direction and cycled up for a long, long time until we reached a place called Ponta Del Olio. The route was tough but very beautiful. Good to be out in the country on small roads again - albeit Italian roads, which are in serious need of repair (lucky we have suspension on the new bikes).
On the way to Bardi we had to ascend a pretty big mountain (600m up) - so much for the gently sloping hills of Tuscany. Felt a little like the Alps all over again except much hotter. Had lunch what we thought was about half way up the mountain near a place called Farini. Good timing as Amnon had just noticed another puncture. Turned out we were perhaps one eighth of the way up. Also started raining on us half way up the hill. Had to wait under a tree for the torrent to abait.
After getting to the top of the mountain it was downhill all the way with only two stops; one to pick cherries from a tree on the side of the road, and the other to fix yet another puncture on Amnon's wheel. Got to Bardy where there were no campings so we had to find a hotel. Found one which had a huge bedroom with a high, vaulted ceiling, a portable black and white TV and antique Italian furniture including an imposing bed, wardrobe and server all carved in what appeared to be walnut It also had a chandelier with only two of eight working bulbs to give a really romantic ambience. They had thought of everything. Very charming in all, especially when we were both exhausted and Illana was moaning much better about a sore stomach.
Daily total : 67kms
Amnon ensured an early start with his incesant kibbetzing, despite Illana's protests that she was not feeling too well. Left by 8. Amazing.
Had to go uphill for about 12kms - another one of those gentle Tuscan hills - which took about 2 hours. On the way down we passed a little homestead where the minature border collies on the property decided to give chase. We were chased and barked at in a most threatening way by about 6 of these hounds. Lucky we could outpedal them until we reached a steep downhill.
Arrived at Borgo, which is on the banks of a river that would be much more scenic if there was water in it. Ate lunch and decided to check into the local camping as Illana was still moaning.
The local campers are pretty strict about adhering to campsite rules. There is a sign that says you can't wash dishes between 2 and 3. We thought this was some kind of catholic thing (like Jews not being able to eat pigs) and so decided to ignore it. An old guy then shouted at us in Italian so we thought we had better stop. At 3 there was a real rush for the washing basins as the rule is a binding constraint on lunch time cleaning up activities.
Went into town to stock up on food and to purchase train tickets to Florence for tomorrow (very uninteresting cycling we hear from other cycling tourists). Very cheap, except the catch is the train leaves at 5:47am. That means waking up at 4:30. Hmmmm.
Daily total : 40kms
Well, we managed to make the train at 5:47, without too much hassle, (we wonder what our neighbouring campers thought). We slept on the train and eventually arrived in Firenze at 9. After some difficult city navigation, we arrived at a campsite quite near the city centre. But there were too many loud New Zealanders, beer drinking Ozzies, and drunk Brits for us to consider the place acceptable. We decided to head to a campsite on the city limits, which was much better (with free showers - a big bonus).
We took a bus ride into town and took a tour of the big shul here. Really interesting. It was built in the late 1800's and is very grand. An American on the tour kept asking 'how much' questions - how much do the chazzan and rabbi earn, how much did the shul cost to build and so on. We were very pleased when he left early. After the tour, we visited Chabad who invited us for supper and for meals on shabbat.
After walking through the streets of Florence for a while we made our way over to Chabad for supper. They catered for over 150 meals and every Jew in Florence was welcomed as long as they joined in for mincha and maariv. There was a constant stream of people walking in, eating, praying, talking and walking out. Chabad are really doing good work here and we are looking forward to shabbat.
After supper we caught a bus back to the campsite and went to sleep exhausted after a long day.
Daily total : 15kms
Woke up to a real noise - a Chinese (or could be South Korean) child having a tantrum right outside our tent. The language lends itself to wining. We think there is an excellent opportunity to make alarm clocks with this noise - it certainly got us up.
Got on our bikes and went back to town. On the way we stopped at a fruit stall and bought 1/4 watermellon for breakfast. Delicious.
Our first mission in town was to find accommodation for the weekend. We eventually found a really reasonably priced and very nice room in a convent. Looks like we will have a multi-religious shabbat, with supper and lunch at chabad and sleeping in a convent.
Went to a kosher restaurant here called Ruth's for lunch and then went on a tour of the Duomo. Excellent. Amnon especially enjoyed the big clock inside the church which goes anti-clockwise, has only one hand, a 24 hour face, with hour 0 determined by sunset - the hour-keeping of the church (ring any bells?)
Thereafter we walked around some more. Tried to see the Galleria del Accademia which houses David, but the queue was too long. Will have to get there early tomorrow.
We cycled home via the Ponte Vechio during sunset. Very beautiful place is Florence.
Daily total : 30kms
Woke up, packed our stuff and went off to the convent. Once the crucifix was safely in the drawer, it really felt like home. We recommend it to anyone coming to Florence (just ask us for the address).
Did some shopping and found a very nice square surrounded by very old buildings to eat lunch. Like all squares in Europe, the pigeons were very annoying. Need to poison them.
Made a second attempt to go to the Academie, but the queue was even longer. Decided to give it a skip and went off to the museum of science where we saw Gallileo's finger - a must see - and other interesting-looking things well explained in Italian. We then went to the Uffizi musuem - again the queue was too long (why didn't anyone tell us not to come here in Augusto?). We had to settle for the Palazzo Vecchio which was stunning, although after about 20 rooms with guilded and fresco'ed ceilings the marginal utility declined sharply.
We went back to our room, got ready for shul and cycled over there, leaving our bikes under the watchful eye of the police guards and three locks. The service was a real disappointment. Firstly there were no siddurim, hundreds of American tourists and no singing at all. Now that question about how much the chazzan earned seemed like a good one.
After shul we walked with a huge crowd back to chabad house. Supper was really crowded. Must have been at least 100 people crammed into the living rooms of an apartment - and there was another group eating at the shul. Food was lekker and we met a French couple who shared our cramped table with us.
Daily total : 20kms
Woke up too late for breakfast and almost missed shul. Lucky we got there in time for Anim Zemirot. Had an early lunch (we were the first sitting) and met some Israeli campers (first other yids we have met would are slumming it). Again the food was good and we had a very nice time. Food was served and everyone was well fed within an hour to make way for the next crowd. We walked around the town for a while and then went back to the convent for a long nap.
After we woke up, we went back to chabad house for seudah shlishit and met some more people - a couple from Philly in the USA who know my cousin Ilan and Sandy, and another couple who know Rabbi Shippel well (he went back to Memphis to conduct their wedding a few months ago). Another coincedence is that one of the chabad bochrim from Kfar Chabad is very friendly with Yossi Ruch, who aparently is Illana's second cousin. Small world.
After havdallah, we sat and chatted to an English couple who now live in Israel and then went back to the shul to fetch our bikes. Yes, they were still there.
Daily total : 3kms
Put the crucifix back up and left the convent by 9 in preparation for a long cycle to Sienna. The route is very scenic and the colours of the countryside are beautiful - a lot of browns, beiges and greens. After one broken bike chain (Amnon's), we got to the campsite in Sienna. After a serious climb into the city we found the campsite which was an acheivement given the conflicting signs as to its whereabouts (some pointed left and others right. We followed the one pointing in the direction of the least hills). The sign outside the site said it was completo and there was a real moment of disappointment until we found out that it was there in anticipation for later in the day. This campsite has a swimming pool and we could not wait to throw our sweaty bodies into it. But first we had to see to Illana's bodily needs and eat a late lunch (most of the trip has been devoted to meeting Illana's food chain needs).
After a lekker swim we went into the town to see what it has to offer. There was a large commotion in the streets with men in tights and velvet puffy armed jackets waving flags around (hitting people - tourists mainly - on the head) and marching to a drum beat. We first thought that the inquisition was back, but then we remembered that that was in Spain. Then we thought it was the local arm of the Fascists. Finally we read in our Green Guide that this is part of a week of festivities leading to the famous horse races around the Piazza del Campo. We have heard that in medieval times, the horses used to drag Jews around the square, so we thought we should leave.
After seeing the sites recommended in the guide we cycled back to our tent on a slope (makes for interesting sleeping).
Daily total : 80kms
Woke up feeling really tired and for a moment contemplated staying in Sienna another day. In the end we decided to move on and only managed to get out of town at 11:30, in time for some really hot weather.
The first 30kms of the ride were quite easy with a lot of downhill (never a good omen for the second part of the ride). We stopped for snacks in a little town up a big hill (wish they wouldn't put them there) and when we were back on our way, Amnon noticed he had lost his windbraker after we had to stop to repair Amnon's panier that had fallen off. We searched for it(windbraker) for a while and after about half an hour, gave up hope.
Then we got to the hard part of the ride. Steep hills all the way to Volterra. Just at the entrance to the city, Illana needed to eat again so we stopped for a short break. Finally we got to the campsite, releived to find that it too has a pool. Had to buy swimming caps. Amnon's matches his shorts (bright green) and with the brightly coloured caps and our very noticeable cycle tans we are quite a stupid looking sight to behold.
Ate an early supper (7:30) and tried to get an early night. Unfortunately, as we were dropping off, one of our neighbours (from the UK it seems) had a tantrum about ants (again - must be a particular phobia of English women) and then shouted at her partner for a good 10 minutes because he laughed at her when she shrieked because of an ant. After we had finally managed to get to sleep we were woken by the Harley Davidson of snorers. This was the worst we had ever encountered - loud, throaty snores. We waited for him to turn over and shut up, but after about a half an hour Illana had had enough and decided to take action. She went up to the tent of the offender and shook it hard. This resulted in a very brief pause. By the time Illana was back at our tent, he was it again, so she threw a couple of stones at the offending tent. This worked until she was back in bed. After another 10 minutes she got up to throw more things at the snorer but gave up when there was no noticeable change, and she settled for moaning to Amnon (whose response was 'don't worry, we're going home soon).
Daily total : 59kms
Woke up to more snorring and decided that it was either us or them. At first there were promising signs at the snorer would move but these turned out to be false. We found a suitable spot and relocated, locks, socks and bicycles. Unfortunately on the way we broke part of the tent pole. Repaired it hastily with duct tape. We took a tough ride into the town and found it very pleasant. Managed to find an internet cafe and a hairdresser who cut both our hair in the same style for the same price. The hairdresser, being Italian, has a disadvantage in that she can't talk and cut hair at the same time (needs her hands for both). We then made our way down the hill to a supermarket and ate half a watermellon for lunch. This kept Illana busy for the rest of the afternoon looking for toilets. Went back to the campsite for a swim and early supper.
The campsite is right at what is known as the Balze - an interesting geological phenomenon which is really worth while seeing. Went for a walk around there during sunset.
Despite our efforts to avoid snorers it seems they cannot be easily shaken off. Again we were woken up by loud snores, this time in stereo as we had placed our tent in the midst of a snoring ensemble. Aside from the snorers, the campsite has the worst toilets we have encountered: squat ones with very strong flush mechanisms that get your feet if you are slow to get out the way. We wondered why there were foot baths all over the place - now we know. Well, we are coming home soon.
Daily total : 6kms
Managed to leave before 9 and had a wonderful 10 kms of downhill through quite spectacular Tuscan countryside. A wonderful way to start the day. We made it to Pisa by 12:30 after a very easy ride (easa Pisa, Pisa cake - for Charles). Traffic was limited as today is Ferrogusto (or something like that) - a very important religious festival for the Italians. Everything is Chuiso per Ferie. Got to the campsite in Pisa, pitched the tent, had a swim and went to see the tower. Definately a must see before it starts to straighten out. Recent repair efforts have been completed and it will restore the tilt of the tower to how it was a couple of hundred years ago. The place is absolutely swarmed with tourists - most of who have their picture taken as though they were holding up the tower. Very original.
Amnon's nighly ritual, the hunt for mosquitos in the tent, yielded a fairly high count.
Daily total : 65kms
Left the Pisa campsite fairly early and made our way to a supermarket to stock up after the ferie. We then had to rush back to the train station to catch a cheap ride to Genoa. A very close call indeed. The train was supposed to have a bicycle carriage, but we had to make do with the WC car at the back of the train. Quite a challenge to fit things in and ensure that passangers could open the WC door. On the journey, we had the opportunity to sample some real Italian scum - two guys with a loud music box playing heavy metal music in the car. Had to move to a car with more tourists.
The train ride to Genoa has lovely views when it is not going through tunnels as it passes through the Italian reviera.
In our anxiety not to miss our stop, we got off the train one stop too early. This afforded us the opportunity of riding through Genoa to get to the station from which our next train, to the Italian border, departed. On the way we stopped off at the old port and bought a couple of novels. At last, something to read in english.
The next train was a Swiss train (at Italian prices - a real bargain) to Nice. This was our final destination, only we didn't know that it went all the way there and bought tickets to a horrible place (worse than Dawlish) called Ventimiglia. On the train we met a German/American bike tourist (travelling mostly by train rather than by bike) and spent an interesting couple of hours talking to him about the challenges Europe faces.
Ventimiglia must be one of the most popular Italian holiday spots. Unfortunately, it doesn't really have the infrastructure to cope with the hordes that descend during the week of Ferragusto. The traffic was horrendous and the campsite was a disgrace. It was also the most expensive campsite of the entire trip. Our emplacement (is that an English word?) was so small that we could not set up our tent properly. There were also only two hot showers for the entire campsite. To add insult to injury the place was full of loud people. Amazing that Italians have no sense of the externality that loud noise generates.
Daily total : 27kms
Photos
Got an early start to get out of Ventimiglia ASAP and made our way towards France. As soon as we had crossed the border things appeared to improve. Better roads (although not by much) and more polite drivers. Felt great to be back where we could speak the language (a little).
The ride to Nice took us through places like Monte Carlo and Monaco. Somehow we kept riding into parking lots and it took quite a while to find the right roads. The scenary was lovelly, but once again, heavy traffic really made the ride unpleasant (it is the peak of the holiday season after all).
By the time we arrived in Nice, it was already lunchtime and all the hotels were booked up. At last we managed to find one that could accommodate us, otherwise we would have to have gone on to a campsite and spent a shabbat on our own.
Nice has a couple of kosher restaurants, so we went out for lunch (you guessed it - Pizza). We first tried one restaurant where we had our main course (2 X pizzas) and then made our way to the second restaurant for desert (1 x pizza + 1 X chips). We then did some shopping and got ready for shul. The walk to shul took us through a busy pedestrian street lined with cafes and restaurants. There were wonderful street performers who entertained us the entire way.
We went to the family of the bride whose wedding we attended in Rouen for Friday night supper (Georges and Jaqueline Halimi). A wonderful supper of Algerian cous cous, delicious salads and superb deserts. The conversation was greatly aided by another guest who could speak English as the quality of Illana's French declined significantly as the evening progressed and the hour got later. One of the guests, Simon, is the president of the Ashkenazi shul in Nice and Georges arranged to walk us over there the next morning.
Daily total : 48kms
We went to shul with Georges and Amnon got an aliya. The service was familiar but the sermon was in French. Illana met a young Parisian called Sophie, hoidaying with her fiance, Arnaud, in Nice. She invited us for lunch and we gratiously accepted. The meal was a lot of fun and we reciprocated by inviting them up to our hotel room for seudah shlishit with the proviso that they eat before they come. Luckily we had decided to buy a box of Algerian matza the previous day rather than get bread (an aside, Algerian matza is round and a lot thicker than the usual square stuff. We have grown to like it a lot). Illana had also cooked up some cous cous just in case, so we managed to provide enough food for all. We used an old map as a table cloth and supplemented our mearge supply of cuttlery and crockery with plastic supplies from the hotel. Amnon used an old egg box as a plate.
After shabbat, we had an early night in preparation for our departure up into the hills of the Alps Maritime region the next day.
Daily total : 0kms
Left Nice at a fairly late hour again. We rode north through an unattractive part of Nice into the mountains. Gradually the scenery improved as we left the city behind us. Quite a tough ride but nice to be in the hills again. This is very lovely part of the country and we were both so releived to be back in France and so appreciative of the drivers that we didn't mind the gradient.
We made our way to a little village called Roquelliere where the campsite was peaceful, spacious and totally lacking in Italians. Also totally lacking in swimming pools so Illana had a cold shower. Really enjoyed being out in the open camping in a pleasant environment again.
Daily total :55kms
In honour of the first 100 days of touring, we decided to take on a big hill and started the day with a 1000m climb in 18kms over a 2 hour stretch. Actually was not bad at all as the gradient was fairly gentle and we had the downhill to look forward to, or so we thoght. In fact, we were robbed of the downhill by a fierce wind blowing the canyon through which we were riding. We stopped at the lowest point of the ride for a snack to prepare ourselves for another 400m uphill. This one kind of sneaked up on us. We were not really expecting it to be so long as it looked fairly harmless on the map - just a couple of squiggles really. To compensate, we had great scenery and there were plently of sources of free, fresh roadside fruit, including figs, mulberries and sour grapes. Anyway, once we had made it up the winding road it was all flat from there until a huge downhill leading to our campsite at a place called Roquesteron. Terrible to go down so steeply, knowing that the first thing we would face the next day would be an equally steep uphill. At least the campsite was quiet and free of Italians. Toilets were half way up the mountain though.
Daily total :92kms
After an exhausting ride out of the campsite we got back onto our route and followed an easy route through to a town called Vence, just above Nice. The mountain roads were lekker and we passed through a couple of quaint villages. Found the campsite, rated highly by Michelin - a rating we agree with, in a forest with great facilities including a swimming pool. After a refreshing swim, we relaxed all afternoon and discussed our plans for the next few days.
Daily total :61kms
Made plans to get back to London and decided to sort out all the logisics of moving bikes before our flight (arranged for tomorrow). Went through to the airport to work out where we could get bike boxes. As luck would have it, we found two English guys unpacking their bikes (on their way to pick grapes for a month at a Chateau in St Tropez for ?00) and they were only too happy to let us take the boxes off their hands. We dismantled and packed up the bikes and stuck them in left luggage overnight. Although this removed the problem of getting the bikes to the airport the next day, it provided a more immediate one - that of transport back to the campsite and to the airport to get our flight. In the end decided to rent a car - the cheapest we could find which turned out to be quite pricey. In the end, they gave us an upgrade and reduced the price by 15%. Don't understand why they didn't offer us that in the first place.
Driving back to the campsite was a fairly scary experience. Eventhough we are familiar with the roads around Nice, we were not used to going more than 35km/h. Illana was particularly paranoid insisting that Amnon drive at no more than 30km/h on the windy mountain roads. The drivers behind us were not as patient as they were when we were on bikes.
Later we went into the old city of Vence which is lovely. Narrow little cobbled streets with many restaurants and art shops. Matisse was featured prominently.
After supper we packed up as much as we could. Very sad indeed.
Daily total :26kms
Photos
Left the campsite early to get to the airport on time for a 9:50 flight. Illana went to collect the bikes from left luggage and while moving one of them, managed to split the bottom, spilling the contents all over the place. Tried to get a VAT refund but we had not completed the correct papers at the time of purchase so we landed up getting FF0.00. Too bad after trying so hard to do this right - the French VAT back process is a closely guarded secret apparently (we had made several attempts to get the right info to ensure we would get the refund).
There was no luggage tape to be found anywhere in the Nice airport, so repairing and sealing our bike boxes was a bit of an effort. In the end we managed with baggage tags and left over duct tape. At the check in we learned that we were schlepping 77kgs (including the bikes which weighed 17ks each) plus about 7 or 8kgs in handluggage. We had to pay for our excess weight.
We returned the car after all this and got back to our terminal as they started boarding the flight. Good timing, or so we thought. As we were going through the security check, they stopped us because we were carrying our antivols (locks). For some reason they wanted us to check them through some other security area. We went back to where we thought this was and they told us to go back to where we came from. By this time we were starting to get a little pissed off so we decided to put the antivols in our bag and walk through a different security check. Too bad, they got us again and after a small argument we had to go back down to the airline and ask them to check the items on for us. They think locks can be used to hit people on the plane - and after this experience, that sounded like a good idea.
The flight on Easyjet was fine (although with no pre-seating) and we landed at Luton airport just outside London on a fine Cape Town winters day.
We managed to reconstruct Illana's bike with no trouble at all. Amnon's proved to be a bit of a challenge. Somehow in the jouney, his gear changing thing on the back wheel had twisted around and was not holding the chain taught. After about 3 hours and very greasy hands, the bike was in rideable form.
We cycled back to John, Amnon's cousin and arrived there at 8:30 (landed in London at 11). We cleaned the grease off our person as best we could and went for a middle eastern supper at Solly's in Goldberg's Groin (credit to John for that). Slept very well with a roof (and a bunk bed) over our heads.
Daily total :52kms
Decided to go shopping for shabbat and passed an internet joint on the way. After exceeding Illana's attention span, we walked up the road which was replete with kosher places to begin our shopping spree. Got a little hot as we were wearing long sleeved shirts as everything else was in the wash, so we decided to buy T-shirts. We saw some new stuff for an average of about ?0 a piece and then passed a charity shop where the second hand stuff was going for a tenth of the price. Both of us found suitable attire for a total of ? - excellent value in London - and continued shopping. In Golder's Green we bumped into Josh - a guy we had met in Bristol over Shavuot. Amazing coincedence.
Went home, prepared supper and went to shul at Highgate Synagogue. We were a little confused as to whether we had arrived too early or too late as there were very few souls gathered together. In the end it turned out that most of the community was on holiday - this being a bank holiday weekend - and the total turnout for the service was 6 men and 1 woman. All 5 members of the community were very friendly and we left shul with promises that things would be better the next day, as well as an invitation for lunch from the rabbi.
We had a lekker supper with John and we chatted until the wee hours of the morning. Great to be with family again.
Daily total :15kms
Woke up a little later than expected and went to shul. As we had been promised the turnout was better. It was lekker to hear the familiar tunes and to understand the sermon in full. We met most of the congregants and went home for lunch with the rabbi. Lunch was excellent - both food and company-wise.
Had a wonderful shloff for the rest of the afternoon and relaxed in front of the TV that night.
Daily total :0kms
Decided to catch a bus to the West End to see what London has to offer. Rain mostly. Lucky we could escape into numerous book shops. Went back to Highgate and slobbed in front of the TV for the rest of the evening.
Daily total :0kms
Bank holiday in the UK today. Did some shopping down the road ?took the bikes and loaded up a pannier. Came back to John and slobbed some more in front of the TV as it seemed a better choice than our intended activity - going to the Nottinghill Carnival - once we found out there were over a million people there. In the late afternoon we cycled back into Golder’s Green to meet Christy and Colette who took us out for supper. After the meal we walked around the area looking for a pub. At last we found one and enjoyed a cider or two before cycling back to Highgate.
Daily total :25kms
Got a late start and then cycled back to Golder’s Green for lunch with Melanie and her two boys. Great to see them. Browsed through the Judaica on offer at Golder’s Green but found nothing to buy. Went back home for a while and then cycled back to Golder’s Green for supper with the Fachlers ?like being with family. Wonderful to have a good laugh at the locals from a South African viewpoint.
Daily total :40kms
Today was devoted to sorting out the logistics of transporting bikes on the plane. Bought a big roll of packing tape to avoid a repeat of the Nice saga. Found a bike shop nearby and procured two boxes in fairly good shape. We walked them home and then walked back to the bike shop after lunch to fetch the bikes. We then rode into, you guessed it, Golder’s Green to continue our search for something worth buying. Again we were not successful.
John took us out for supper for pizza in ?wait for it ?Golder’s Green. At least the company was good.
Daily total :25kms
Spent some time packing up and then went to visit John’s kids. Then shopped in Muswell Hill which had a better selection to choose from than Golder’s Green. After we had found a suitable gift for our host we went back home and dismantled the bikes. Got the Heathrow and checked in with no hassles. They wanted us to unpack the bikes and wheel them over a carpet sodden with foot-and-mouthicide, but we managed to convince them that this would be a bad idea as the wheels were off the bikes which were themselves in several pieces inside the very well sealed boxes.
We were the last two passengers to board the plane and were greeted by name as we got to the gate ?very friendly in the UK. We were thrilled when an airhostess came to confirm our special meal requests ?one kosher and one kosher vegetarian. But alas, they provided two meals of chicken which did not comply with Illana’s requirements. Amnon ate like a king while Illana ate the food we brought with us in anticipation of a stuff up.
As has become common on long flights, a guy near us got a little drunk. He then proceeded to sing badly and whistle loudly as he listened to the marvelous selection of music generously supplied by SAA for our entertainment. He continued to make a noise despite several requests from all those around him, as well as airhostess and even a visit from the very fierce purser on board the flight. In any event, it was far better than the snorring in Italy and both of us slept, Amnon with the help of a dormicum and Illana with a shoulder to lean on.
Daily total :10kms
Woke up to a lukewarm breakfast as the hostess had been unable to wake us up. We landed not long after to a 12 degree Cape Town. Lucky for us, the airport was one of the few buildings in the city to withstand the torrents of rain that have caused havoc recently. Took ages to get through customs and to get our luggage. We were stopped by a customs official who wanted to know what was in the boxes. He poked his finger through a handle to establish whether the bikes were new and got a finger-full of grease. That was all it took to convince him.
Charles was waiting to greet us and he brought us home. Amnon was thrilled to be in his own house and to celebrate, walked around in his underpants until he got a little chilled. Nice to be home.
Daily total :0kms
Well, we could go on, but it seems silly as the trip has come to an end. Very sad indeed but we have been told that all good things come to an end and what a good thing this trip was - a fitting farewell to our youth. Not too many people can simply buy a tent and set off for an adventure in Europe with two bikes and a couple of panniers. We feel truly blessed. Now its back to the adventure of living as responsible adults, and hopefully never forgetting the people we met and the wonderful things we saw.
Thank you to all of you who read the site and emailed us on our trip.
Thank you to all the people we met whose names we never knew, like the petrol attendant in France who arranged our stay at a fantastic Gite down the road, the Italian guy who we followed all the way to our campsite, the farmer in Tregadillet who let us camp on his field, the French cyclist who took us home when we got lost near Rouen, the librarian in Lecco who let us use the internet for free for a couple of hours, the courier cyclist who told us about the Tour de France, the youngster who walked us all the way to the kosher deli in Zurich, the hotel staff who helped us keep shabbat by opening electric doors and locks for us, the drivers who gave us and our bicycles lifts in the UK, McDonalds for providing clean, free toilets throughout our trip, and all the numerous campers and cyclists whose advice and friendliness really made the holiday and taught us both that it is worth taking the risk and being friendly occasionally.
Thank you to all the new friends we made who showed us tremendous warmth and hospitality;
And of course, thank you to old friend and family. So lekker to see you again;
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