Whistler’s Creekside

By Ilona Biro

My son and I were going on a ski trip – his first, my umpteenth. But where to go to make us both happy? A skiing friend I asked for advice had the answer: go to Whistler for the ski school, but stay in Creekside for the ambience. Creekside, I thought? Wasn’t that where we used to get gas? I made the bookings anyway.

To skiers around the world, Whistler is known as a party town, made famous by the Crazy Canucks and later by Olympic gold-medal-winning snowboarder Ross Rebagliati. As our bus pulled into the heart of the village, I flashed back to my youth, much of it spent right here. Apres-ski was in full swing and groups of snowboarders caroused from bar to bar. Was I crazy bringing a preschooler here for a whole week?

All my worries vanished as soon as we rolled into Creekside. No longer a roadside whistle stop on the way to the main village, today it’s emerging as a hotspot for families and anyone else nostalgic for the quieter days of early Whistler.

A work in progress, Creekside is an intimate, pedestrian village–in–the–making. New family–style suite hotels hug a main concourse, very similar to Whistler’s main village, circa 1985. At its heart is the local branch of the ski school, Whistler Kids Creekside. From there, pint-sized Picabo’s and mini-Meier’s have a two-minute amble to the gondola and their hill. And Dusty’s – the original après–ski bar - still has pride of place at the bottom of the hill. Aside from a couple of suite–style hotels and a few essential shops still moored along the highway, that’s about it, for now at least.

Today there’s just enough amenities to keep a family happy for a week: a video shop, a grocery, a few restaurants and ski equipment shops. Plans call for a few more hotels and restaurants, but because Creekside is hemmed in by mountain slopes, its size will be limited and the feeling kept intimate.

Not only is Creekside a smaller, gentler Whistler, it’s also where everything began. It was here in 1962, that four Vancouver businessmen proposed bringing the 1968 Winter Olympics. Though the bid failed, their gamble paid off. Their Garibaldi Lift Company took off and kick-started resort development on Whistler Mountain.

Fast-forward to the 1980's and the dual mountain/one village vision meant that all the development shifted five kilometres north to where it is today, at the base of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. Fast-forward again to 2003, and it’s back to the future: Creekside is being reborn with the 2010 Olympics on the doorstep.

Steps from our front door at First Tracks Lodge, the gondola zips skiers up the hill, lodge to peak, in less than 20 minutes. In fact, locals have long considered Creekside the best way to get up the hill fast and beat the crowds. This side of the mountain also features Whistler’s 'Family Zone', a slow skiing area of the mountain where novice

skiers and snowboarders can take their time, building up confidence before heading off to explore the rest of the mountains.

But don’t think Creekside is all child’s play. Take the challenging Peak to Creek run, for example. It starts at the huge bowls at the top, with black runs to the bottom, and ends with the world-famous Olympic Dave Murray downhill run. This is where the men’s and women’s downhill courses will end, should Vancouver get the Games.

Plans call for new terrain to open up to the south of Creekside Gondola, running from the West Bowl and Bagel Bowl all the way down to the valley. Creekside is also close to a lot of off–piste skiing, where better skiers can imagine they are in the backcountry.

Walking around Creekside that first morning, Max and I felt like we’d discovered one of Whistler’s best-kept secrets. It took less than two minutes to get from our room to Whistler Kids, where Max signed up for a five-day Adventure Camp. Best of all I could watch his lessons unfold from our living room window.

At Whistler Kids we were greeted by Jane Hellyer, who manages the Mini–Sliders program for three and four year–olds. A key part of her job is helping parents understand the goals of the program. If they think Junior will be ready for the chairlift after a lesson or two, Hellyer brings them down to earth. “With the little ones, it’s sometimes hard for parents to understand that it’s not all about the skiing. Initially we just want them to get the basics. Can they carry their skis? Can they put them on? The most important thing is that they’ll have fun, while you get to ski.”

The staff are seasoned multi-taskers, whether amusing jet-lagged tots or teaching the basics of skiing. Depending on their group’s ages, staff mix up the lessons with indoor games, stories and art projects. It all adds up to a great experience for the kids, who get introduced to skiing in a gentle, non-threatening way that offers them a challenge they are sure to meet.

As I watched Max lurch, Frankenstein-like, around the clubhouse, I did wonder how far he’d get. But as the week progressed he began talking about going up the magic carpet, doing “peanut butter and jam” (right and left) turns, and mastering the pizza slice (snowplow). By day five I was flabbergasted to spot him skiing (skiing!) down the hill after his instructor, Julie Smith.

Meanwhile, I enjoyed my freedom too, grateful for Creekside’s long and gentle runs. Compared to the craziness of Whistler and Blackcomb slopes, here I did less shoulder-checking and often experienced the fleeting illusion of being the only skier on the hill.

I didn’t think nightlife was going to be a factor on our trip, but even a four-year–old can pick up on Whistler’s après-ski vibe. We found plenty to do, starting with Whistler’s local rec centre, Meadow Park. With an NHL-sized ice arena, fitness centre, squash courts, and 25-metre pool, it provides enough diversions for a whole week’s stay.

We spent an hour doing Tarzan imitations on the pool’s rope swing before Max reluctantly threw in the towel.

Another night we visited The Great Wall climbing gym, which offers an introductory climbing session for families. Co-owner Corinne Allison says the class is a great way for families who go their separate ways on the hill to come together in the evening. “We’ve introduced a lot of families to climbing as an activity they can all do together.” The gym offers another popular evening program, called Kids Climb and Dine, which frees up Mom and Dad for a night on the town. Kids seven and up get a guided climbing session, fun and games and a kid’s style dinner, but make sure to book ahead.

Families who want to see more of Whistler’s great outdoors can take horse-drawn sleigh rides or try out a brand new attraction called Ziptrek Ecotours. This unique activity whisks you along cable cords and suspension bridges for a bird’s eye view of gaping gorges and rushing rivers below. Not only do you fly through the trees, safely strapped into a harness, but naturalists provide important facts about Whistler’s local ecology and the ancient forest along the way.

Meanwhile, back at Creekside, it was time to pack up and head home. Our mother–son ski trip had been a huge success. As a confidence–building exercise for Max, nothing could beat getting out on the mountain next to the snowboarders. He blossomed in ways I’m still seeing weeks after our return. And for me it was pure bliss to get back to a sport I’d always loved.

Next July 2nd, when the International Olympic Committee decides who will host the 2010 Winter Olympics, at least one four year-old will have his fingers crossed for Vancouver’s bid. Max wants to watch the racers fly down the Dave Murray and be able to say he did it long before the Olympians got there. Guess we need some more ski lessons.

IF YOU GO:

INFORMATION: Tourism Whistler can arrange rooms, activities, and transportation. Call 1–800–WHISTLER, or visit www.mywhistler.com.

GETTING THERE:

Ski Can has the best selection of ski packages available. They’ll arrange flights, hotel, ski passes, and transfers from Vancouver to Whistler. Call 1–888–4–SKICAN or visit http://www.skican.com.

LODGING:

First Tracks Lodge and Legends offer luxurious family–style suites in Creekside, with personal laundry facilities and gourmet kitchens. Call 1–800–955–2671 for reservations, or visit www.lodgingovations.com.

Pan Pacific Lodge Whistler has beautifully appointed fireplace suites in Whistler Village, call 604–905–2999, or visit www.panpac.com.

FAMILY ESSENTIALS:

Whistler Kids: Call 1–800–766–0449 to find out about all your options. Kids camps are $91-95 per day, $182-190 for the two-day and $455-475 for the five-day Adventure Camp. Adrenaline seeking teens can join the Salomon Freeride Camp, taught by the resort's own freeride team. Book ahead for Kids Nights Out.

Meadow Park Sports Centre (604-935–PLAY) Come here for a skate, swim or squash game.

The Great Wall (604-905-7625) Climbing wall, offering programs for all ages and abilities. Book ahead for night classes on www.greatwallclimbing.com.

Ziptrek Ecotours: (604–938–9325) Explore Whistler from on high. www.ziptrek.com.

Whistler Valet Services: (604-905-6444) For a five-dollar fee, have restaurant meals, groceries or beverages delivered to your hotel room. Essential for families.

Nanny Network (604-938-2823) Provides rental of strollers, high chairs, cribs and other essentials. Also has babysitting services.

Blackcomb Sleigh Rides (604-932–7631) Ride along forested trails for magnificent views of Whislter Village, then enjoy hot chocolate and a cowboy show in the cabin.