A room with a view: bombing Baghdad

                                 Ten years ago today, Patrick Cockburn was
                                 one of just a handful of journalists to stay on
                                 at Baghdad's al-Rashid hotel as the first
                                 allied planes flew in. Here, he recalls the
                                 terrifying night the air war in the Gulf began

                                 16 January 2001

                                 As the allied planes flew towards Iraq on the first day of the
                                 Gulf air war, I sat waiting for them by the open window of my
                                 room on the fifth floor of Baghdad's landmark al-Rashid hotel.
                                 The UN ultimatum to Saddam Hussein to pull his army out of
                                 Kuwait had expired on 15 January – and now, down in the
                                 lobby, expectation was turning to panic as people realised that
                                 after months of waiting the bombing was finally about to begin.
                                 Some American TV crews, fearing Iraqi retaliations, had
                                 decided to flee at the last minute to Jordan, and were hurriedly
                                 loading their equipment on to trucks.

                                 The al-Rashid, a tall, modern building used by the Iraqi
                                 government to house official guests, had double-glazed
                                 bullet-proof windows. This was comforting in a way, but as I
                                 waited for the bombs to fall, I worried that an explosion close
                                 to the hotel would shatter the heavy glass, turning the shards
                                 into lethal pieces of shrapnel. I decided to keep the window
                                 open that night, though it was bitterly cold outside. Kneeling on
                                 the floor, wrapped in a blanket for warmth, I gazed out over the
                                 silent city, gripped by a mixture of fear and exhilaration.

                                 I got used to the whooping of the air-raid sirens in the coming
                                 weeks, but on that first night they sounded peculiarly
                                 menacing. A few minutes after their first warning note, at about
                                 3am, anti-aircraft guns opened up across the city, sending
                                 streams of yellow tracer into the night. Shells from other guns
                                 sparkled like white daisy-chains as they exploded overhead.
                                 The Iraqis were clearly not short of ammunition. Then, from
                                 behind the hotel, there began the staccato roar of a battery of
                                 anti-aircraft guns perched on earth mounds above the river
                                 Tigris.

                                 At first I mistook the Iraqi AA missiles exploding on the horizon
                                 for the first US bombs or Tomahawk missiles. But then a huge
                                 pillar of flame seemed to erupt from the top of a
                                 telecommunications building a mile or so away, on the other
                                 side of the park that housed Baghdad zoo. More bombs and
                                 missiles followed, silhouetting buildings against the
                                 explosions. My windows survived the attack, but a few
                                 seconds after each blast I felt a gentle puff of air against my
                                 face.

                                 I was in Baghdad covering the crisis for The Independent –
                                 and I recall worrying that elsewhere in the al-Rashid, Peter
                                 Arnett of CNN was giving a blow-by-blow account of the
                                 bombing to viewers around the world. This meant that
                                 whatever I wrote might seem old hat to readers who had
                                 stayed up into the night when it was published the following
                                 morning. And I was eager to find out more about the damage,
                                 in case the Iraqis locked the remaining Western journalists in
                                 the hotel or kicked us out of the country.

                                 So, in the early dawn, with Baghdad still shrouded in a chill
                                 white mist, I set off from the al-Rashid with Maggie O'Kane,
                                 then of the Irish Times, and headed first for the
                                 telecommunications tower on the opposite side of the river
                                 from the Mansour Melia hotel, where British hostages had
                                 been held after the invasion of Kuwait the previous August.
                                 From a distance, the building looked undamaged, but as we
                                 got closer we could see that its outline was more jagged than
                                 usual. Laser-guided bombs had blown holes in the third and
                                 fifth floors and had melted the satellite dishes on the roof.

                                 Elsewhere in the city, the smart bombs and cruise missiles
                                 had hit ministries and security headquarters. The building
                                 housing the ruling Baath Party had a large bite taken out of its
                                 roof. The Ministry of Justice looked normal but a missile had
                                 ripped apart its insides. There was smoke rising from
                                 Saddam Hussein's presidential compound and the military
                                 intelligence headquarters looked as if it too had been hit.

                                 But the destruction had less impact on the Iraqi government
                                 than appeared from television pictures. This was not the first
                                 time Baghdad had been attacked in recent history. The
                                 Iranians bombarded the city during the Iran-Iraq war in the
                                 1980s, and ever since government institutions had alternative
                                 locations to which they had already transferred.

                                 I later asked an Iraqi intelligence officer in exile where
                                 Saddam and his key officials had been during the bombing. "I
                                 can tell you where we weren't," he replied. "We didn't hide in
                                 any underground command bunkers. We assumed the
                                 Americans knew about them and had the bombs to penetrate
                                 through the reinforced concrete." Saddam himself turned out
                                 to be living mainly in a middle-class suburb called al-Tafiya,
                                 moving house every few days. He travelled in cheap,
                                 inconspicuous cars, sometimes accompanied by only a
                                 single bodyguard – a colonel who himself wore no insignia of
                                 rank.

                                 But though the government had survived the first day of the
                                 bombing largely intact, ordinary Iraqis were in a state of
                                 collective shock. Six months earlier, many had favoured
                                 Saddam's invasion of Kuwait (on 2 August). But the last thing
                                 they wanted was another war. Several hundred thousand
                                 Iraqis, from a population of only 18 million, had died or been
                                 wounded fighting Iran. As the allied armies assembled in
                                 Saudi Arabia, they knew they could not fight the whole world.
                                 "We didn't expect a war," an Iraqi general sent to Kuwait later
                                 recalled. "We thought it was all a political manoeuvre."

                                 On the last day of peace I had toured Baghdad. There was an
                                 ill-attended protest rally of school children outside the British
                                 embassy organised by the Baath party. Horses were still
                                 being exercised by their trainers near the al-Mansur race-track.
                                 The largest public gathering I could find turned out to be a
                                 meeting of pigeon fanciers.

                                 It was not that the Iraqis were ill-informed about what was
                                 happening There was little on Iraqi television and radio but
                                 people spent hours listening to foreign radios in Arabic,
                                 switching from the BBC to Radio Monte Carlo to Voice of
                                 America. "Our main hobby is listening to the radio," said one.

                                 But if people in Baghdad did have qualms about Saddam's
                                 refusal to pull out of Kuwait, there was nothing they could say
                                 or do about it, apart from voting with their feet. There was a
                                 pervasive fear that Saddam would fire a Scud missile, armed
                                 with a biological or chemical warhead, at Israel – and that the
                                 Israelis would respond with a nuclear strike on the Iraqi
                                 capital.

                                 Among those who stayed in Baghdad, mostly too poor to
                                 leave, on the first day of the war the mood was fatalistic. Some
                                 made formal declarations of defiance towards the US,
                                 probably thinking this was the only safe course when talking to
                                 a foreign journalist. But in a dilapidated cafe near Nasr
                                 Square, one old man stopped drinking tea to relate a story
                                 about how divine intervention might yet save good Muslims.

                                 He repeated the old tale from the Koran of how the Abyssians
                                 once "brought elephants to conquer Mecca. At first the
                                 Bedouin warriors were frightened by the beasts, but God sent
                                 birds to Mecca who dropped stones on the elephants and
                                 killed them". Saddam had recently told the same story, adding
                                 the significant fact that he had recently learned that the
                                 elephant was the symbol of President Bush's Republican
                                 Party.

                                 But the way the old man told the story, with exaggerated
                                 gestures and to the sound of giggles of others in cafe, it
                                 suggested a different, more dissident, message: unless God
                                 could come up with magical birds, Iraq had no hope against
                                 the allied elephants.

                                 Over the next few weeks, the decline in the living conditions of
                                 our small band of journalists in the al-Rashid reflected the
                                 collapse of civil life in Baghdad. The previous year, the menu
                                 had boasted lobster cooked three different ways. By the first
                                 week in February, breakfast consisted of a fried egg sitting in a
                                 pool of jam.

                                 But it seemed tasteless to complain, since everyone else in
                                 Iraq was so much worse off. The hotel at least had a small
                                 generator, not powerful enough to work the lifts, but it provided
                                 a flickering light on the stairs. In the rest of Baghdad, after the
                                 first bombs fell on the morning of 17 January, there was no
                                 electricity at all. Many wealthier Iraqis had prepared for war by
                                 stocking their deep freezes with meat.

                                 But without power, the meat was rotting, producing a
                                 penetrating stench which hung over entire districts.

                                 In poorer districts, garbage collectors noticed a sinister
                                 change. Before the war a third of all garbage consisted of food
                                 scraps. Now, thanks to the war and sanctions, these had
                                 disappeared; food was too precious to throw away. Everything,
                                 even melon skins, was being eaten.

                                 This abrupt return to the living standards of the Middle Ages
                                 came about because of an astonishing oversight by the Iraqi
                                 leadership. It should have been obvious to them that their oil
                                 refineries would be high up on the allied target list. Despite
                                 this – and the fact that Iraq was entirely dependent on
                                 motorised transport – they had not stockpiled any petrol. In a
                                 few days the fuel started to run out. I bought a bottle in what
                                 was known as "the thieves market" in a vast working class
                                 slum on the far side of the Tigris. It turned out to have been
                                 laced with water, so my car periodically ground to a halt. The
                                 petrol famine crippled Iraq far more effectively than the allied
                                 destruction of roads and bridges.

                                 It had been obvious from the start of the war that any journalist
                                 who stayed in Baghdad was going to be portrayed as a
                                 catspaw of Iraqi propaganda. The White House and the
                                 Pentagon believed they had lost in Vietnam because of a
                                 hostile media – and they were not going to let it happen again.
                                 Peter Arnett was pilloried for querying the official line that all
                                 bombs and missiles hit their targets. The British journalists
                                 who stayed in Baghdad were less vulnerable. But the Iraqis
                                 had introduced a lackadaisical censorship, whereby an official
                                 – often with an uncertain grasp of English – would stand
                                 beside us as we dictated our copy over a satellite telephone.
                                 Not unreasonably, italicised health warnings began to appear
                                 at the bottom of articles, saying they had been censored by the
                                 Iraqis.

                                 I did not quite realise that the US and its allies were
                                 presenting the air campaign as an entirely new type of war in
                                 which only military and government targets were being hit. It
                                 was true that the laser-guided bombs and cruise missiles
                                 were very accurate, but videofilm showing them demolishing
                                 large buildings rather missed the point. Accuracy only matters
                                 if you know your target. Armies and security forces are good at
                                 hiding themselves. General Wafiq al-Samarrai, the former
                                 head of Iraqi intelligence, now in exile, told me later that in the
                                 entire air war "the Iraqi army didn't lose a single officer over the
                                 rank of brigadier".

                                 On the ground in Baghdad, one could sense as the days went
                                 by that the allied airforces were getting to the bottom of their
                                 target list. They hit the ruins of the Baath party headquarters
                                 half a dozen times. Iraqi Information Ministry officials took us to
                                 see the bombed-out remains of a factory. The Pentagon
                                 claimed it was a biological warfare plant while the Iraqis said
                                 it produced baby milk. It seemed likely the Iraqis were telling
                                 the truth. Drifts of milk powder were heaped against the walls.
                                 In a desk in an office in the factory, I found detailed letters from
                                 foreign consultants about the financial problems of producing
                                 powdered milk.

                                 The drama of the air war over Iraq masked a simple truth. The
                                 allied elephant, as the old man in the Baghdad café had
                                 hinted, was always, barring divine intervention, going to crush
                                 little Iraq. This would have happened even without the air
                                 campaign, which destroyed much of what the Iraqis had built
                                 over the previous 50 years. The only real surprise of this war
                                 was that Saddam Hussein survived his defeat.

 

                                 Patrick Cockburn is the co-author with Andrew Cockburn of
                                 'Out of the Ashes: The Resurrection of Saddam Hussein',
                                 published by Verso (£17)