Running low in  Turkey's diesel alley

                                                   Life gets tough for embargo
                                                   busters on Iraqi border
                                                   Iraq: special report

                                                   Chris Morris in Silopi, Guardian Unlimited
                                                   Monday July 17, 2000

                                                   Omer Simsek is one of the thousands of
                                                   drivers in the impoverished south-east of
                                                   Turkey who try to make a living by
                                                   breaking the UN sanctions against Iraq.
                                                   They cross the border to buy diesel fuel,
                                                   which they resell in their homeland.

                                                   As sunset approaches he and his fellow
                                                   drivers have spent the day crouching in
                                                   the shade of their lorries, drawn up by the
                                                   side of the road from the Iraqi border in
                                                   temperatures approaching 50C.

                                                   They have passed the time smoking
                                                   cigarettes and buying the occasional
                                                   bottle of water from traders who cycle up
                                                   and down the queue. They are waiting to
                                                   sell their cargoes at a new state depot set
                                                   up late last year by the government.

                                                   To a man, they are utterly fed up.

                                                   "We can hardly break even any more,"
                                                   said Omer. "There are new expenses,
                                                   new taxes, and there is nothing else for
                                                   us to do here."

                                                   Everyone knows that the trade takes
                                                   place, and Turkey's western allies, led by
                                                   the United States and Britain, have been
                                                   prepared to turn a blind eye.

                                                   Since the end of the Gulf war, Turkey has
                                                   lost an estimated £25bn in trade because
                                                   of the UN embargo on Iraq. The heaviest
                                                   burden has fallen on the border region,
                                                   which can least afford it.

                                                   So, until recently, the unofficial diesel
                                                   trade has been tolerated because it
                                                   served as a desperately needed economic
                                                   lifeline.

                                                   But now the government has regulated it,
                                                   and imposed a strict quota. The amount of
                                                   diesel fuel the drivers are allowed to bring
                                                   across the border has been halved, and
                                                   they have to sell it directly to the state
                                                   rather than on the open market.

                                                   "It's ridiculous - profits have been slashed.
                                                   What do they expect people to do?" said
                                                   Kamil Ilhan, of the local chamber of
                                                   commerce. "If we're not careful, our lorry
                                                   parks will be turned into graveyards."

                                                   Businessmen in the region estimate that
                                                   nearly 50,000 lorries are involved in the
                                                   border trade. At one dusty roadside cafe
                                                   the drivers said some of the lorries parked
                                                   nearby had not been used for three
                                                   months.

                                                   No one is quite sure why the restrictions
                                                   have been introduced. Some people say
                                                   the big oil companies were fed up with
                                                   having their prices undercut, many
                                                   suspect that nationalists in the
                                                   government in Ankara did not want too
                                                   much unregulated money flowing through
                                                   this mainly Kurdish region.

                                                   The south-east is beginning to emerge
                                                   cautiously from 15 years of war between
                                                   the Turkish armed forces and the Kurdish
                                                   PKK rebel movement. But the conflict has
                                                   devastated the local economy, and
                                                   popular frustration is still extremely high.

                                                   Raising sheep and cattle used to be the
                                                   main source of income. But thousands of
                                                   villages were forcibly evacuated by the
                                                   army in their fight against the PKK, and
                                                   farming has been largely destroyed. The
                                                   diesel trade had become by far the
                                                   biggest money earner in the region.

                                                   "We have to produce alternatives if we're
                                                   going to restrict the only source of income
                                                   the people have," said Salih Yildirim, a
                                                   local MP. "Otherwise even more people
                                                   will leave this region. They have no other
                                                   choice."

                                                   Mr Yildirim, whose party is in the coalition
                                                   government, has been working to lift some
                                                   of the new restrictions, and he hopes to
                                                   have good news for his constituents soon.
                                                   If the restrictions are revised rather than
                                                   abandoned, however, local people will
                                                   continue to earn less than before.

                                                   Reports in the Turkish media suggest that
                                                   even the military authorities in the
                                                   south-east are frustrated by the sudden
                                                   reduction in the border trade. Most of the
                                                   region is still under quasi-martial law, and
                                                   security is extremely tight. But the
                                                   military authorities have been urging the
                                                   government to launch rapid economic
                                                   programmes to help restore normal life.

                                                   There are plenty of other emotional issues
                                                   swirling around in south-east Turkey: the
                                                   fate of the imprisoned Kurdish rebel leader
                                                   Abdullah Ocalan, for instance, and the
                                                   debate on whether the state may relax
                                                   any of its bans on the expression of
                                                   Kurdish identity through education or
                                                   broadcasting.

                                                   The border trade, though, is a much more
                                                   basic necessity. It has been the means
                                                   by which hundreds of thousands of people
                                                   have survived from day to day, and they
                                                   are frightened of losing it.

                                                   In an ideal world, the Turkish authorities
                                                   would like to see the sanctions against
                                                   Iraq lifted as soon as possible. They have
                                                   made some moves towards improving
                                                   their relations with Saddam Hussein's
                                                   government in Baghdad, but they still
                                                   allow the US and Britain to fly air patrols
                                                   over Iraq from Turkish territory.

                                                   Caught in the middle of this complicated
                                                   situation are the ordinary residents of the
                                                   south-east, who are demanding simple
                                                   answers.

                                                   "The government has to see sense," a
                                                   driver said. "If they don't want another
                                                   rebellion to start around here, they have to
                                                   give us back our livelihood."