An Introduction to
PBGVs
Petits are happy, adorable, personable, clever, loving and very entertaining. While I would never describe a Petit as hyperactive, they are high energy dogs requiring regular exercise and mental stimulation. They can also be independent, tenacious, single minded, demanding, noisy, messy, stubborn, frustrating little thieves. To us, they are always a joy. Their sheer delight in everything they do is contagious. Even when they are misbehaving, it is hard not to get caught up in their enthusiasm. Another breeder we know aptly describes PBGVs as being like 10-year-old boys: sweet as can be, but still full of curiosity and mischief, getting into everything, and constantly testing the limits. While Petits do not shed in the manner of a labrador or other short coated breed, they do continually loose hair, much like a human does and they require regular brushing to avoid finding hair all over your furniture and clothes. And they need combing to avoid matting of the undercoat. If they are regularly combed and brushed, they shouldn't need to be bathed very often. Show grooming is a bit more involved and requires a certain amount of hand stripping. Coats can still be inconsistent in this breed and some coats will require more care than others to achieve the same "look". Grooming is a hot topic in this breed. The standard of course states that hounds are to be shown untrimmed. However, everyone agrees they still need some "tidying up". But how much is too much is where we all run into conflicts. PBGVs will become 95% housebroken rather easily. But the other 5% seems to be more of a challenge for some and it make take several months of diligence before a puppy is completely reliable in the house. Unfortunately, many of them also have the disgusting habit of trying to "clean up after themselves." Yes, I mean they will sometimes eat their own poop. It is important to remember these dogs’ original purpose is to hunt rabbits, alone or in small packs, and they are still widely used for that purpose in Europe. Many of the U.S. Petits are only one or two generations removed from hunting dogs. They have a pack mentality and need their humans to be leaders. Hunting Petits get their exercise, socialization, entertainment, etc. from their work. A Petit who is kept as a pet must depend on his humans to fill all these rolls. A Petit without a definite pack leader will be a Petit out of control. Not that he will be vicious or dangerous. He will simply ignore your attempts to control his behavior and go about his merry way. Consistency among ALL family members is very important. Mixed signals can lead to behavior problems. Because he is a scent hound his nose will often take over his brain. For this reason, most Petit owners find it is impossible to safely let their dogs off leash in any but the most controlled of circumstances. Unless you are prepared to undertake the extensive training necessary to get a Petit to be even remotely reliable off leash, you should plan on always keeping him restrained in some way, either in a securely fenced area or on a leash. And petits can be diggers, so even a basic fence may not be enough. Cement footing around the fence perimeter or some other deterrent may be necessary to keep your petit from tunneling out. The mad dashing (referred to by many as zooning) they will do about the yard or inside the home can tear up turf or be hazardous to fancy knickknacks or fragile antiques. As pack animals by nature, PBGVs are not particularly dog aggressive and usually get on well with other dogs. But they can be little scrappers and fights can and do occasionally break out. PBGVs seem to have definite opinions about which dogs they like and which they don't, and it can be hard to change their mind once it is made up. If however, you learn to live with all their various challenges, Petits are the most wonderful of companions. As to health, PBGVs are basically a hearty, long-lived breed, but the breed does have some health problems to watch out for. None are particularly common although that is no consolation if your puppy is the one affected. The PBGV Club of America (PBGVCA) recently completed a health survey receiving responses on 640 PBGVs. Complete results of the survey can be found at the PBGVCA website: http://www.pbgv.org/PAGES/PBGVCA/COMMITTEES/health/HealthSurvey.html
The two most common diseases, Persistent Pupillary Membranes and recurrent ear infections occurred in less than 9% of the population. All remaining diseases reported occurred in less than 5% of the population. Among the more potentially serious of the reported diseases are Aseptic Meningitis - often referred to as Neck Pain Syndrome (NPS) or Juvenile Pain Syndrome, seizures or epilepsy, glaucoma, retinal folds, cataracts, heart murmurs, patellar luxation and hip dysplasia. These are all things a reputable breeder, myself included, will screen for and research pedigrees for before breeding their stock, but there is still no absolute guarantee one or more of these conditions will not surface. And since so much of the breeding stock in this country is imported from Europe, we can't always go back as far in our research as we'd like. For price, puppies seem to run anywhere from $800 - $1500, depending on the breeder, the reputation of the puppy's parents, the costs involved in producing and raising the litter, etc. The most common being $800 - $1200. Pet vs Show quality is sometimes an issue in price, sometimes not, again depending on the breeder. Adult prices vary widely. If the dog needs to be sent via air to its new home, the buyer will generally be expected to pay shipping costs. For further research, I would highly recommend several resources. Books: Understanding
the Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen : Rustic French Hound --
The
Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen: A Definitive Breed Study --
Both of these books are available from Amazon.com on the web, or you can probably order them from a local bookstore. In addition, you might want to consider joining one or more of the PBGV email lists available. There is a lot to be learned from all the folks who participate in these lists. Links to the information on these lists is on the PBGV Club of America (PBGVCA) web site - http://www.pbgv.org/PAGES/links.html Another possible resource is the PBGVCA quarterly newsletter, Saber Tails. Subscription information can be found at http://www.pbgv.org/PAGES/PBGVCA/COMMITTEES/sabertails.html Also at the PBGVCA web site is a list of member breeders. http://www.pbgv.org/PAGES/BREEDERS/BREEDERS.html You will also find a wide
variety of links to other PBGV web sites in the links
section of our web page.
The Truth About PBGVs
The French hunters who developed this breed over the last few hundred years had a very practical hunting dog in mind. They were not trying to create an ideal companion, but a superb hunting machine. They wanted a dog with stamina and agility, with the brain and nose to work a track in difficult terrain with little or no guidance, in small packs or alone. You would do well to keep this in mind when trying to understand the PBGV personality.
If you are not ready to undertake some serious long term training, these guys will never be reliable off leash and must be kept on leash or in a securely fenced area at all times. They will follow their noses and they will not be called off an interesting scent unless you have previously put a lot of time into training them. Even then, it could be iffy. If you're not careful, they'll kill squirrels on your sofa. If you don't raise them with cats and other small animals, you can have big problems explaining that these are not prey. Once a PBGV gets an idea, it can be extremely difficult to change its mind. PBGVs appeal to people who want a smart, entertaining dog. But the smarter the dog, the smarter and more creative the owner has to be. A sense of humor is mandatory for a prospective owner.
People who run Border Collies and Goldens in agility (obstacle courses) think PBGV trainers are crazy to put up with dogs who sometimes create their own courses, invent a new way to deal with an obstacle, or suddenly decide to play the whole thing for laughs. But a PBGV throws itself into everything it does with such joyful abandon that you can't help laughing along with it. Those of us who train them wouldn't trade breeds for the world. And we do have health problems to watch out for. The worst is the "PBGV neck pain syndrome" which strikes puppies and adolescent dogs. We also have seizures, hypothyroidism, retinal folds, persistent pupillary membrane, juvenile cataracts, glaucoma, patellar luxation and hip dysplasia. These are all things a reputable breeder will screen for before breeding their stock, but there is still no guarantee the condition will not surface. Most PBGV owners and breeders don't want the breed to be too popular. Popular catches the attention of the puppy mills, and these puppies are so cute they'd sell like hotcakes in pet shops, and so active they'd be readily available in shelters not long after. So we haven't tried to make the name easier for people to remember or tried to market them heavily. People who need a PBGV in their lives will find one, sooner or later. You have to meet a PBGV in person to realize why so many of us are captivated by them, despite their often challenging personalities. And if you don't find them equally captivating, then they are not the breed for you. Special thanks to Beth Sudlow
for allowing me to use the pictures of Maddee Lou and Kirby above. You
can visit Maddee and Kirby at Maddee's
World.
AKC Breed Standard
for PBGVs
Size, Proportion, Substance Size-Both sexes should measure between 13 and 15 inches at the withers, with a 1/2 inch tolerance in either direction being acceptable. Height over 15-1/2 inches at the withers is a disqualification. Proportion-Somewhat longer than tall. A correctly proportioned dog will be approximately 50% longer than tall when the entire body is measured from sternum to buttocks as compared to withers to ground. Substance-Strong bone with substance in proportion to overall dog. Head The head is carried proudly and, in size, must be in balance with the overall dog. It is longer than its width in a ratio of approximately two to one. A coarse or overly large head is to be penalized. Expression alert, friendly and intelligent. Eyes large and dark, showing no white. The red of the lower eyelid should not show. They are surmounted by long eyebrows, standing forward, but not obscuring the eyes. Ears supple, narrow and fine, covered with long hair, folding inward and ending in an oval shape. The leathers reach almost to the end of the nose. They are set on low, not above the line of the eyes. An overly long or high-set ear should be penalized. Skull domed, oval in shape when viewed from the front. It is well cut away under the eyes and has a well developed occipital protuberance. Stop clearly defined. Muzzle-The length of the muzzle is slightly shorter than the length from stop to occiput. The underjaw is strong and well developed. Nose black and large, with wide nostrils. A somewhat lighter shading is acceptable in lighter colored dogs. Lips-The lips are covered by long hair forming a beard and mustache. Bite-It is preferable that the teeth meet in a scissors bite, but a level bite is acceptable. Neck, Topline, Body Neck-The neck is long and strong, without throatiness, and flows smoothly into the shoulders. Topline-The back is level with a slight arch over a strong loin. Viewed in profile, the withers and the croup should be equidistant from the ground. Body muscular, somewhat longer than tall. Chest deep, with prominent sternum. Ribs moderately rounded, extending well back. Loin strong; muscular and rounded about the lateral axis of the dog. Tail of medium length, set on high, it is strong at the base and tapers regularly. It is well furnished with hair, has but a slight curve and is carried proudly like the blade of a saber; normally about 20 degrees to the aft of vertical. In a curved downward position the tip of the tail bone should reach approximately to the hock joint. Forequarters Shoulders clean and well laid back. Upper arm approximately equal in length to the shoulder blade. Elbows close to the body. Legs-The length of leg from elbow to ground should be slightly less than 1/2 the length from withers to ground. Viewed from the front, it is desirable that the forelegs be straight, but a slight crook is acceptable. The leg is strong and well boned. Pasterns strong and slightly sloping. Any tendency to knuckle over is a serious fault. Dewclaws may, or may not, be removed. Feet not too long, with hard, tight pads. Slight turnout of the feet is acceptable. The nails are strong and short. Hindquarters Strong and muscular with good bend of stifle. A well defined second thigh. Hocks are short and well angulated, perpendicular from hock to ground. Feet are as in front except that they must point straight ahead. Coat The coat is rough, long
without exaggeration and harsh to the touch, with a thick shorter undercoat.
It is never silky or woolly. The eyes are surmounted by long eyebrows,
standing forward, but not obscuring the eyes. The ears are covered by long
hair. The lips are covered by long hair forming a beard and mustache. The
tail is well furnished with hair. The overall appearance is casual and
tousled. Hounds are to be shown untrimmed. Indications of scissoring
for the purposes of shaping or sculpturing are to be severely penalized.
White with any combination of lemon, orange, black, tricolor or grizzle markings. Gait The movement should be free at all speeds. Front action is straight and reaching well forward. Going away, the hind legs are parallel and have great drive. Convergence of the front and rear legs towards his center of gravity is proportional to the speed of his movement. Gives the appearance of an active hound, capable of a full day's hunting. Temperament Happy, extroverted, independent, yet willing to please. DISQUALIFICATION Height of more than 15-1/2 inches at the withers. Approved August 14, 1990
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