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Jonathan Otley was one of the first people to think about the
Lake District in a rational, scientific way. These extracts from the 8th edition
(1849) of his "A Descriptive Guide to The English Lakes..." display his method
of writing separate sections on the different types of feature to be
seen, such as waterfalls, mountains or antiquities, in addition to more
conventional excursion routes.
SCAWFELL AND THE
PIKES ... The lower point, rising from a bulky mountain between the
vales of Wasdale and Eskdale, is well known as Scawfell; the higher lies nearer
Borrowdale, and comprehending more than one peak, has been called, by the
inhabitants of Wasdale-head, 'The Pikes'. Latterly, it seems by common consent,
the highest point is called SCAWFELL PIKE: and since the erection of the large
pile of stones upon it in 1826, there is no danger of mistaking the place.
... Excepting some tufts of moss, very little vegetation is to be seen upon
these summits. They are chiefly composed of rocks, and large blocks of stone
piled one upon another; and their weather-worn surfaces prove that they have
long remained in their present state. The prevailing rock is a kind of indurated
slate, in layers of finer and coarser materials, which gives to the surface a
ribbed or furrowed appearance; the finer parts are compact and hard as flint;
upon which the lichen geographicus appears in peculiar
beauty. Scawfell-Pikes may be ascended on fot from any of the adjacent vales,
but most conveniently from Borrowdale; yet the distance from a place of
entertainment, the ruggedness of the ground, and the danger of being caught in a
cloud- to which, from its situation, it is more subject than its neighbours-
altogether conspire against its being visited by any other than hardy
pedestrians: and strangers should so calculate their time, that night may not
overtake them on such places. To be enveloped in a cloud is of itself
disagreeable; cloud and night together would be dreadful. [Details given of routes from Stonethwaite or Seathwaite in
Borrowdale via Esk Hause, and from Wasdale over Lingmell. View described- and
later in the book, a table is given of compass bearings and distances to various
visible prominences such as Skiddaw and the Mull of
Galloway.]
BIRKER FORCE, on the south side of Eskdale, is a stream
of water emitted between lofty rocks, and pouring from a great elevation down
the hill side in a stripe of foam. DALEGARTH FORCE, or STANLEY GILL, on the
same side of the valley, is a sublime piece of scenery. From the ancient mansion
of Dalegarth Hall, now a farmhouse, a path has been formed, crossing the stream
from side to side, three times, by lofty wooden bridges. The water falls, in
successive cascades, over granite rocks, which rise on each side to a stupendous
height, and are finely ornamented with trees, and fringed with a profusion of
bilberry, and other plants, rooted in the crevices.
Devoke Water,
connected with the Esk near Ravenglass, is famous for the excellence of its
trout, and as a place of resort for water fowl. There are some other small
tarns of little consequence in themselves, and seldom seen by strangers;
therefore they scarcely require to be noticed: such as Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and
Blea Tarn, in Eskdale ...
A plot of ground near the foot of Devoke Water
exhibits traces of numerous buildings in the form of streets. It is called the
city of Barnscar.
AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND
WASDALE Distances from Ambleside given as: Cockley Beck 11 miles;
Dawson Ground, Wool Pack 15; King of Prussia 18.5; Santon Bridge 21.5 This
tour may be made on horseback, or, with some little difficulty, in a cart;
taking the road to Little Langdale, as before described, and following the old
pack-horse road over Wrynose and Hardknot, both of which hills are very steep.
Near the road, on Wrynose are the three shire stones of Cumberland, Westmorland,
and Lancashire. From Westmorland we here pass into Lancashire; and crossing the
head of the Duddon at Cockley Beck, we enter into Cumberland. From the top of
Hardknot, there is a view of the sea, and the Isle of Man in the horizon; and
half way down the hill on the right, are the ruins of a place called Hardknot
Castle; but having been built without mortar or cement, scarcely any part of the
walls are left standing. The small river Esk winds along a narrow valley,
among verdant fields, surmounted by rugged rocks, and about a mile and a half
down the valley is a public-house, formerly the sign of the Wool Pack, about 15
miles from Ambleside. On the left, in travelling down the valley, there are two
remarkable cascades. The first is seen from the road; but the other, which lies
beyond the chapel, requires a walk of more than half a mile to view it. From the
hamlet of Bout, a dim track leads over Burnmoor to Wasdale Head; but the road
should be kept nearly to Santon Bridge ... [No details of
Ravenglass or Muncaster]
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