it's all about the buses
I arrived to Kyoto via bus on schedule...around 7:30am. I immediately found lockers, but discovered that I didn't have enough 100 yen coins. I ventured into a bakery and bought two breads (curry pan and cinnamon roll) to get my change. After stowing away my luggage, I ventured into the nearest McD's to get breakfast. A meal (and two breads later,) I was happily full and ready to hit the road.
I found the bus depot (after asking for directions from informations.) Kyoto station is gigantic, but quite easy to move around in. All the buses is on one side of the station. Although Kyoto does have a metro system via rails, moving about by buses is definitely easier since the buses go to all the sites. And there are LOTS of them. I bought a 2 day pass which included the subway and buses, though not the JR lines. I was happy with the pass since practically each ride anywhere is over 200 yen. Armed with my pass, I headed to my first stop: Kinkakuji Temple.
temple hopping
Upon stepping off the bus, I walked towards the temple...and saw to my right a large 'dai'. (Its Mt. Daihoku and it's the 'hidari dai' for the Daimonji festival.)
I bought my ticket and wandered onto the temple grounds. The golden pavilian, the highlight of the shrine is the main attraction and the first thing you see.
I caught sight of carp in the water around the pavilian.
The route leads away from the lake and the building into trees, smaller shrines and gardens along and up the mountain.
Apparently many people have tried to throw into the bowl...without much success. ^^;
Along the way, I saw a place where you could have tea in traditional tea ceremony style. Since it was still so close to breakfast, I decided not to do it...which I regret for the rest of my trip. >.<
I decided to walk to the nearby Ryoanji Temple...which isn't nearby at all. I used the busroute to direct me...though I soon realized that walking wasn't such a good idea. *sweat buckets*
I saw this awning and the first thing I thought was, 'So, Antique Bakery is in Kyoto?' lol ^^;
I arrived at the temple easily enough and headed up to buy my ticket. One of the workers there told me that the rock garden was under construction, though it could still be viewed. (I understood him minimally, but the signs in English on the doors and pictures beside them clarified what I didn't get. ^.^) As soon as I entered the shrine, I was met with a large pond...with ducks. ^-^
The signs directed me up the stairs to the stone garden. Many people were already there.
I waited nearby until I could sit closer to the edge. After admiring the view (contemplating the meaning of life, the stones, and what to eat ^.^) I walked around the building. Barefooted of course since we left our shoes at the door.
I saw the screens of the Zoroku tea room as well as the Tsukubai basin. Then I continued out and around the garden before continuing to explore the shrine.
Near the end of my walk, I discovered a restaurant where they sold yu-tofu which is like tofu skin...a specialty in Kyoto. Since it wasn't lunchtime yet, I decided against going...something else I regret for the rest of my trip. >.< (It seems that the things I regret most are all food related...at least during this trip. ^^;)
*gasp* me hitching a ride
My agenda called for me to go to Kiyomizu Temple next, but since it was already 2pm, I decided to head to the hotel first. I took the bus back to Kyoto station and picked up my suitcase. Since I was there later in the afternoon, I saw a pie restaurant that I missed in the morning. The display was so tasty looking...even if the pies are fake. *drools*
I hopped onto the subway and got out at Shijo station. *blink blink* I found the main road but had no idea where to go next. It was later on that I discovered that both the JR and subway station was indeed 15 min. away from the hotel (as the hotel rightly stated) and that I needed to get out of Exit 6 of the JR station and not Exit 6 of the subway. *facepalm* But lets get back to me being lost....
I asked a man and woman for directions, showing them my printout map for the hotel. They told me that I was 15 min. away and pointed out where to go. Then the guy stated that the hotel was near his job and that they can drive me. o.O I refused and said I could walk (completely forgetting the word 'aru' for walking, but I did the motions with my fingers ^^;) but they insisted. I sheepishly agreed and went with them to pick up their car at the parking lot. I silently mused that they could be tricking me...especially when he took my suitcase and placed it in the back. But since I had a strong hold on my laptop and my purse (both containing MY ENTIRE LIFE) I had little fear even if they did make off with my suitcase. lol ^.^ They were very amiable and I chatted with them in broken Japanese and them in broken English. We got along quite well with my Japanese surprisingly. ^^; They asked where I was from, what I was doing in Kyoto...the usual questions. I received the guy's card, though I didn't have one of my own. (Perhaps I should make one just so I can give it out....) I thought they were just going to drop me off at the main street, but the guy got out and got my suitcase and led me to my hotel. When I could see the hotel though, I told him there was fine. I was going to give him 1000 yen for their help (even though they said no money was necessary before,) but he practically ran away when I was about to give it to him. ^^; I thanked him as he left.
My hotel, the Super Hotel Kyoto Shijo Kawaramachi was just built this year so everything is beautifully new...though I don't think any hotel (the ones I have stayed at) were ever old and dirty. ^^; Even with the 10-15 minute walk to the subway (or through the subway passages,) it is quite convenient. There are alot of buses that stop there too so yay! It has a hotspring, which I couldn't enjoy at all since my period came.... *cries* I settled into my hotel and hopped on the bus to my next destination, Kiyomizu Temple.
climbing uphill
A huge mass of people got off the bus at that stop and we proceeded to walk uphill. It said 15 min...but it could be close to 20 or 25 min with the speed everyone was walking.
Anyway, there were lots of shops along the side where I settled into my search for THE Hello Kitty strap for Kyoto. So many.... <.< One of my fav non-Hello Kitty related item has to be this one...chibi-Spiderman and hijiri. ^-^
Besides Hello Kitty along with the sights of Kyoto, we have Stitch, Doraemon and Spiderman.
Finally, I reached the top...though the climb wasn't at the end.
Even along the route through the various shrines at Kiyomizu, everything was uphill. But the view was so beautiful since we were so high up. We could look into the valley and see the sun in the distance.... *lights glaring*
Near the front of the temple were these metal sandals and staff.
People would try to pick them up...to no avail. The smaller staff would budge a bit with two hands, but the larger staff wouldn't budge even with two guys trying. ^^; Needless to say, I couldn't pick any of them up.
At the very top were all these shrines for love. There, the two famous love stones are placed.
If you can walk from one stone to another with your eyes closed, you would be blessed with love.
(Above pic is the view of one stone to another. ^.^) I knew I was going to fail even before I tried it...since I can't walk a straight line even with my eyes open. I conjured up my courage anyway (since I was by myself with no one beside me to tell me if I'm going to be hitting something/someone) and walked the crooked line...and failed of course. ^^; Some junior highers got through and even a few guys made it to the end as well. ^_^
There were several rabbit statues...but my fav 'statue' was this one.... Cute, ne? ^.^
The route wound up going down too where at the base of the mountain, there were people lining up to drink the water from the spring. Some of the foreigners were actually sipping from the long spoons. X.x Ewwww....
I took pics instead. On my way back down the hill, I bought matcha ice cream cone with yatsuhashi.
I ate it while checking out the various flavored hijiri (triangular sweets) and ended up buying 3 types: peach, mango and ramune.
I took the bus to Kyoto station, and heard from fighter and kumi-kun that they'll be late. I took the time to walk around. There was even a Tezuka store in the station which I checked out a bit. I also got this beautiful pic of Kyoto Tower.
I went in and grabbed a semi-dinner...chocolate cake with pudding and shavings...yum. All that sugar was to re-energize me for the evening adventure. ^.^
cicadas, tori and the dark
In Japan, kids have a summer activity that has to do with temples, oranges and ghosts. Simply put, kids would run up dark temple steps, grab an orange, and return...usually with their friends dressed up as ghosts to freak them out. It's summer...it's dark and Fushimi Inari shrine is the perfect place to try our nerves. Not for that dare though. Just simply walking up the many steps. ^.^ Fushimi Inari shrine is known for it's tori, one after another. The view in the dark is definitely creepy enough and with 3 girls, one flashlight, it's an experience that fighter brought up and we decided to go for it.
I met fighter and kumi-kun at Kyoto station and we took the JR line to Inari station. We stopped by a conbini so they can buy some food and we headed across the street where a giant red tori greeted us. Checking with a random passerby, we confirmed that was the entrance to Fushimi Inari Shrine. Kumi-kun and I spotted a black kitty. Our pictures immediately revealed scary green eyes from the flash. Of course, mine has to be the one with no eyes. ^^; (Looking closely, I think the head is turned away...still creepy though.)
We walked into a typical shrine setup and went towards the back...where the rows of tori stood before us.
Heading up the hill. It was about 7:30pm. And we never returned. Mwahahahahahaha.... lol j/k
From the front, the tori had no words, but there were words from the back. (That helped lead the way. ^.^)
There were alot of kitsune statues as well which I dubbed Kurama most of the way. ^.^ Except for this one...this one was creepy looking.
There were only a few other visitors, but probably only like 5 or 6 in total that we heard at various places along the trail. Otherwise, it was just us, the cicadas and cats. A couple of them near the front of the tori (and not in the middle of the trail to freak us out) and even two kittens that we couldn't coax to come closer.
As for freaking us out, there were several cicadas and they were what freaked kumi and fighter out the most. I'm happy that I don't scream when I get startled but I was definitely jumping. ^^; They fly into you and into your hair. And you can just hear their wings.... *shudders* It was certainly an interesting experience.
We discovered that the higher we go, the prices of the vending machines also increase. ^^; We were speculating if the prices would ever get to 1000yen per half a liter.... And people would buy it since they are thirsty. lol
A couple of times, we went into the wrong path that lead to a dead end. Fighter has a good sense of direction though and she navigated us up and down the mountain.
When we got back to the station, it was about 10:30pm. I said my goodbyes to Kumi-kun at Kyoto station since it would be last time I see her. (We didn't have any other plans to meet in Kyoto or Osaka since we each have our own agendas.) *hugs* I headed back to the hotel (which I found with no problems.) After showering, I made my plans for the next day and went to sleep.
manga break
I woke at 8:30 and took my time at breakfast...which was yummy and filling. Mmmm...fresh bread and sausages.
I was late in getting to the Imperial Palace (which took some time finding since the castle walls were surrounded by the trees in the park) so I missed my tour time. I went to the office and signed up for the 2pm tour which I was told wouldn't be in English. I agreed and gave them my info then headed to the Kyoto Manga Museum and couple of subway stops away.
The Kyoto Manga Museum is like a manga cafe. You pay 500 yen to read their manga...which happens to be a personal collection of some person...don't remember the name. I'm guessing a female since I saw lots of shoujo manga...though I could be wrong. There were also a wall that had manga from around the world. FYI, Germany has When a Man Loves a Man by Youka Nitta-sensei. O.O In English, we had various Viz manga and even a couple from June. *drools* I spent some time reading a comic book anthology made for 9/11. Made me kinda teary so I had to stop reading after a moment.
There was a video where they show the various steps between sketching out a pic for a manga, inking it and adding screentone. *takes notes* They have manga editing consultations too...but I think it's for improving the art and layout and not for the museum to push the manga into publication (since I doubt the museum is associated with any publishing company.) There was a display of this year's global manga awards from various amateurs and some of their chapters from the winners were there. One of them was Cantonese so yay. ^.^
Along the walls of the museum were pics of maiko drawn by various mangaka. My favorite was the one drawn by the creator of Anpanman since it was Anpanman as a maiko. ^__^ The children's room was done in with dragons in mind. I really like the way it was made with sunken floors and decorations. I looked over the book I used to read as a kid, 'A Chair for Mother' since they had it in Japanese. There was a special monsters exhibit on the second floor. Lots of traditional Japanese monsters and even 3 haunted house-type boxes at one side. You know, the type of box that you have to look into, peek in to see and freak out over whatever illusion it holds. The exhibit had various monster/horror manga on the shelves, including Monster, Hell Girl and 'Yokai Attack!: The Japanese Monster Survival Guide' by Hiroko Yoda which was published by Kodansha English company. It was very helpful. I may order a copy myself when I return to the States.
The second floor also had a show of a guy telling a story via those sliding pictures. A box, with a stack of pics inside, and when you get to the next part, you pull out the top pic to reveal the one underneath. It was titled 'The Appearance of' something.... I don't remember the entire title but it was funny. (The character has someone like batman? Perhaps a vampire?) The kids got to answer questions and they get tickets which could be traded in for prizes and any parents/mothers who answered could get plastic rings. ^.^
Back to the manga. Another reason why I think the collection owner was/is female since there were also some BL manga in the mix. I found many titles by Ima Ichiko like Warawanai Ningyo. There were some titles by Kouga Yun too (no Loveless, but lots of the older stuff like Gestalt and Renai Crown.) I spent some time reading before heading to the basement where there is a short exhibit and the glassed archives of the really, REALLY old books. Of course, Kaze to Ki no Uta was mentioned as mangaka Takemiya Keiko-sensei was listed among the other 24 mangaka who started the whole shoujo genre. Dragonball and Yu Yu Hakusho was attributed to Shounen Jump's sucess. ^.^
After my manga break, I headed back to the Imperial Palace for the tour.
only the king may enter
I got to the Seishomon Gate and was directed to the waiting room...to find myself in a huge mass of foreigners. Why should I be surprised? The majority that would visit the palace would be foreigners. ^^; Actually, it turned into a really good thing since the tour guide decide to direct the tour in English rather than the originally planned Japanese. (English being what he reads from the paper in his hands.) First, we watched a video of the entire tour...basically everything we're going to see is now on video (with the exact words of what the tourguide will say) and we were told not to run amuck on the premises. ^.^
The walk around the palace was wonderful and so are the ancient buildings.
The above pic shows the main building where the throne room is. The most interesting fact I can remember is that the Emperor enters through the Kenreimon Gate. (I think the pic below?)
However, if the Empress comes to Kyoto Palace alone, she has to use the Gishumon Gate like the other nobility. ^^;
The above pic features the treasure house...though our guide pointed out that all the treasures are now in Tokyo since the capital is no longer Kyoto...so the building is empty. ^.^
The emperor's bedroom....
...and the palace gardens. Our one hour tour took 53 minutes and we were directed back to the Seishomon Gate where another tour group was waiting to begin. I hopped on the subway to Shijo station where I changed to the bus for my next destination: Heian Shrine.
of carp and turtles
I planned my agenda several months back and I usually have a really good reason for going to a certain location. For the Heian Shrine, it was for the garden. Though I must mention, this shrine is one of the most beautiful one I have seen. The reds are so vibrant.
I did a quick walk around the shrine and bought my ticket for the garden. The winding paths lead to a giant lake with a bridge.
Halfway along the bridge, I spotted this sign. o.O
Looking over the railing, I realized why I chose this particular garden. Turtles and carp swam near the bridge.
I immediately dumped my 50 yen into the box and obediently took out one dry piece of bread. Reminded me of the fried dough for Chinese breakfast...but I doubt it tasted like that. There is a limit to what I will eat. ^^;
I fed the turtles and carp and left the area as a group was coming to the bridge.
I headed to the bus where I noticed something in the rear entrance. A music symbol.
Turns out, people can ring the bell to get the bus driver's attention if the driver doesn't see them. ^^; Sugoi!
maiko's corner
Gion is a famous district in Kyoto that has the geisha theater at the head of the Hanami-koji street.
At the end of Hanami-koji is Gion Corner where performances are held.
The performances run through the most basic of Kyoto culture...giving you a taste of each. I arrived about 5:30pm so there was some time before tickets were sold. I walked along the street checking out the restaurants and some of the stores. I bought a Hello Kitty matcha ice cream phone strap...since I really couldn't decide if I wanted a geisha kitty...or even a takoyaki kitty.... ^^; I only saw one maiko on the street, and a swarm of tourists surrounded the poor girl as she went into the theater. A bit before 6:30pm, I went to Gion Corner where a line was already starting to form. I got my ticket and went to sit.
They opened the performance with a tea ceremony held at the left side of the room.
Two volunteers from the audience were asked to participate. As the tea ceremony was finishing up, the curtains came up and two koto players began their performance. Their performance became the background music for ikebana, the flower arrangement that was done on the left side of the stage.
The curtains came down and up again and gagaku or court music with a dancer appeared.
It was followed by kyogen, a comedy performance about two servants who want to drink their master's wine. The facial experiences are hilarious as are the exaggerated movements.
A puppet show with large puppets operated by 3 people each was held. Snow drifted about the room....
The evening closed with kyomai...two maikos dancing.
Enligtened, I ventured out to find my dinner.
an evening by the river...not really
I took a short bus ride down to Kamo river where there is a line of restaurants overlooking the water. Alas, many of the restaurants were over my budget...and even so, they didn't have yu-tofu that I wanted. >.< And the one restaurant that did, wouldn't let me sit on the terrace since I was by myself. ^^; I took a long walk along the water and headed to my hotel. I grabbed some instant noodles and ice cream on my way back.
(Couldn't decide on the ice cream, so I got both. ^.^)
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