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Webmasters' comments:
If you have a Koi pond, your not filtering drinking water. Your running
a sewage treatment plant.
From Terry Cusick
Sources and types of water pollution
Koi pond filtration and fish health?
A biological filter extends the capabilities of what
is an unnatural and otherwise inadequate system by continuously treating
the water and removing some toxic compounds - ammonia and nitrite being
the most common. However, as we all know, there are many different types
of filter, some more efficient and effective than others. So which are
best? This is a deceptively simple question without a simple answer.
What we can do, though, is to look a bit more closely at how a filter
works and what sort of load is placed on it and thereby arrive at some
basic guidelines.
Do we really need a filter?
If we consider a range of ponds, from the standard
goldfish pond with just a few relatively small fish and lots of plants,
up to the other extreme - an overstocked koi pond containing several
dozen large fish - the weight or bio-mass of fish per unit volume can
vary dramatically. The goldfish pond may have only a few grams of fish
while the koi pond may contain several kilograms worth.

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It is the total weight of fish or the
biomass, which determines whether filtration is needed, and what
type of filtration system is needed.
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The filtration or purifying requirements for these
two very different extremes will be completely different. Indeed, the
goldfish pond may manage quite adequately without any additional
filtration to that naturally available within the pond itself. The
plants in the pond would remove the small amount of nitrogenous waste
produced by the fish and there would be adequate surface area in the
pond for the relatively small numbers of nitrifying bacteria. Many
owners of small ponds like to have a waterfall and it is then no problem
to run water through a small filter, mainly in an attempt to produce
clearer water. In a low stocking situation a filter may be an
optional extra and the amount of beneficial biological filtration
produced is liable to be small.
Koi are efficient sewage making machines
In contrast, in a typical koi pond the amount of
waste produced by more and larger fish means that the water is
continuously being polluted to higher levels, which in turn will have a
serious affect on fish health. Indeed, with no filtration the fish would
soon generate sufficiently high levels of pollution to kill themselves.
In this situation filtration is not an optional extra, but a vital
necessity.
If the filter also helps produce clearer water that is an added bonus.
I view koi as extremely efficient sewage-making
machines. We throw in high quality, expensive food and the koi convert
it to high quality water-polluting sewage. If we are to maintain good
water quality, we need to remove or neutralize the sewage as fast as the
fish produce it, otherwise there will be a steady increase in unwanted
pollutants. This is an important point that I will return to later.
What is pollution?
At this stage we should clarify what we mean by
pollutants and at the same time widen our expectations of an adequate
filter system. A simplistic view of filtration is the conversion of
toxic ammonia into less harmful compounds. While this may reduce or
remove any potentially harmful toxins, it doesn't necessarily result in
unpolluted water.
Ultimately, what we are trying to achieve and
maintain are optimum water conditions that are as near as possible to
those that the koi would find in their natural surroundings. Any
chemical or substances present at higher than normal levels, even if it
is not directly
toxic, should be considered a potential pollutant. So our
filtration system, together with our routine pond maintenance schedule,
should be designed to remove not only toxins such as ammonia and nitrite
but also the products that result and often accumulate when these
initial metabolites are degraded. If we are going to extend our view of
filtration to include the control of non-toxic waste products, it is
obviously going to mean a completely different approach to our
previously simplistic view of water quality, filters and routine pond
husbandry.
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Ammonia and nitrite are not the only
pollutants produced by fish. Any judgment of water
quality should take account of total water pollution - not just
ammonia and nitrite
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Background, non-toxic pollution affects koi health
and encourages disease
Why should we make life difficult for ourselves in
bothering about these non-toxic pollutants and what are they anyway? A
short answer as to why we should be concerned about the level of this
type of 'background pollution' is that it can indirectly encourage
increased levels of both bacteria and parasites and it has also been
implicated in lowering resistance to infection. It also encourages alga
growth, which in turn can affect dissolved oxygen levels and pH
stability.
And as we all know, the presence of unsightly
amounts of string algae can encourage the koi-keeper to start loading
the pond with yet more chemicals in an attempt to eradicate the problem.
So although many of these pollutants are themselves not directly toxic,
they can be indirectly involved in many of the more common health
problems.
If we again make a comparison between the lightly
stocked goldfish pond and the often overstocked koi pond, and ask which
system is more prone to health problems, the answer must surely be the
koi pond. The main difference between the two, apart from stocking
levels, is the background level of non-toxic pollutants. A better
understanding of these pollutants requires a change in the often
over-simplified view of water quality. The conventional and popular view
is that the fish produce metabolic ammonia and all of the fish waste and
mulm also breaks down, in a single step, to ammonia. In the filter,
these copious amounts of ammonia are converted to harmless nitrate - end
of story. But that is only the beginning.
Firstly, we have to realize that fish food is
concentrated, containing high levels of protein and other nutrients.
This means that a relatively small amount will have a large polluting
effect. This could be demonstrated quite convincingly by simply placing
a couple of pellets of fish food into a small container of pond water
for a few days and then testing the water sample for a range of
parameters. One of the major changes is a two-to-threefold increase in
the level of dissolved organic carbon (DOC), which indicates an increase
in pollution. (It is referred to as carbon because the basic structure
of all organic molecules such as proteins, fats and carbohydrates, is
based on carbon atoms). The other noticeable effect of this little
experiment is a dramatic increase in phosphate, an ideal plant food.
Food in, sewage out
The effectiveness of a fish's digestive system is
directly related to the availability of food. Therefore, when food is
scarce or of low nutritional value, as it would be in the wild, the
digestive tract extracts the maximum amount of nutrition from the food.
The resulting excreta will therefore be fairly well degraded, bearing in
mind that, in the wild, the food was liable to have been of relatively
low nutritional value in the first place. However, when food is
plentiful or rich, the digestive tract gets lazy and tends to absorb
only enough for it's immediate requirements, so the feces are likely to
contain quite high amounts of undigested nutrients, or pollutants as
they have now become. So you can perhaps accept my analogy between koi
and sewage machines - food in one end sewage out the other.
It is important to appreciate that fish waste is in
many respects similar to solid food, inasmuch as it still contains
proteins, nucleic acids, fats and carbohydrates. Because it still has a
high organic content, this type of semi-solid organic matter is called
particulate organic carbon (POC). When this waste is further degraded by
decomposer organisms part of the protein content will be ultimately
converted to ammonia and other nutrients will be progressively broken
down into sugars, organic acids and a whole range of simpler organic
compounds.
Ammonia - a toxic by product.
Perhaps at this stage I should clarify what is meant
by metabolic ammonia. This is ammonia produced in the fish's body as a
result of breaking down amino acids for use as an energy source. This
involves a process called deamination, taking place in the liver, during
which the amine chemical is removed from amino acids. All animals
produce metabolic ammonia but, as it is such a toxic compound, virtually
all other animals, including humans, immediately convert it into a less
toxic substance before it is excreted. Humans convert ammonia into urea,
which is passed out of the body as urine.
Fish 'don't bother' to convert ammonia, they simply
excrete it continuously from their gills into the surrounding water. In
a natural environment the immediate dilution by thousands of gallons of
water would render it harmless. However, no-one told Mother Nature about
koi-keepers and their ponds so it's not quite the case in koi ponds,
where ammonia can build up to a dangerous level because of the large
number of fish in a small volume of water.
So we can see that pollution in a pond has at least
three sources: metabolic ammonia (the quantity being determined by the
number of fish and how active they are), inorganic compounds (such as
phosphate) and various dissolved and particulate organic carbon
compounds. Understanding the chemistry is not important here, it is
enough simply to realize that these processes are taking place and if we
want to maintain optimal water quality we need to consider the removal
or neutralization of all of these pollutants, not just ammonia.
 ![]()
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A koi pond has at least three major sources
of health-affecting pollution.
·
Metabolic ammonia
· inorganic
compounds produced during decomposition of fish waste etc.
· dissolved
and particulate organic compounds from decomposing organic
matter
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Organic pollution
Koi ponds and organic wastes
If we ignore the fate of metabolic ammonia for a
moment and concentrate on the organic matter, it will be easier to
understand how these pollutants can affect the long-term health of our
koi if we have a clear idea of what happens to them in the pond. To do
this we have to understand a little about fungi and bacteria, Nature's
trashmen. We tend to think of microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria
as being disease-causing agents but, in truth, relatively few of them
are pathogenic (disease causing). Indeed, without the continued
decomposing actions of these micro-organisms, the planet Earth would by
now be covered with a layer of sewage several miles deep!
Heterotrophs & Autotrophs
We can divide microorganisms into two basic types.
First are those that need a supply of ready-made organic carbon to
provide them with energy and the building blocks for other molecules
such as amino acids. Organisms that require organic carbon, which
includes humans, are called heterotrophs. Some
micro-organisms and all plants can extract carbon from inorganic carbon
dioxide. These are called autotrophs.
This distinction between the
modes of nutrition of various micro-organisms is important because an
environment that encourages one type of micro-organism -for example,
autotrophic nitrifying bacteria - may be unsuitable for heterotrophs
such as Aeromonas bacteria and vice versa.

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There are two distinct types of bacteria involved
with pond filtration.
heterotrophs - feed on organic matter
such as fish waste and mulm
autotrophs feed on inorganic
compounds such as ammonia & nitrite
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Mineralisation
Solid organic matter, such as fish waste, is broken
down in a series of steps by heterotrophs into progressively simpler
compounds. Most of the initial decomposition is done by fungi, which use
enzymes to break down the larger, complex organic molecules into
simpler, soluble nutrients that the fungi can reabsorb. This process of
using enzymes to break organic matter into smaller molecules is carried
out by all microorganisms, each time producing a different organic
compound, until finally the original matter is converted into basic
non-organic components such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. This
whole process of converting organic materials into non-organic matter is
called mineralisation.
The ultimate fate of these inorganic elements is to
be converted back into organic matter, usually by plants and other
autotrophic organisms, and the whole cycle starts all over again. While
the biology of decomposition may be mildly interesting, the important
point is that it is carried out in many stages, requiring large numbers
of different species of micro-organisms that produce a wide range of
different organic compounds in the process.
Ideally there would be little in the way of 'free'
organic compounds
In an ideal situation, the rate of mineralisation
would be matched by the production of organic materials and there would
be little in the way of free organic carbon compounds (or other
pollutants) in the surrounding water. But, unless our filtration and
pond husbandry is designed to remove these organics at the same rate as
they are produced, there will be a small but often significant level of
free organics. As a direct consequence of this mild form of pollution a
rising DOC level - the following problems may be encountered:
Excessive alga growth leading to either green
water from free-floating algae or dreaded string algae. These aquatic
plants (or weeds, depending on your point of view) will thrive on the
non-organic products of mineralisation, such as nitrate and phosphates
High levels of heterotrophic bacteria, which is as
good a time as any to point out that many of the common pathogenic
bacteria (such as Aeromonas and Pseudomonas) are
actually opportunistic heterotrophs. This means they are usually
present in the pond feeding as decomposer organisms but can, if their
numbers are high enough or conditions are right, turn their attention
to the fish.
The classic example is when fish are stressed and the normal defense
systems are weakened. While it would be impossible and undesirable to
eliminate these opportunists entirely, I think that most people would
agree there is no point in encouraging them either!
High levels of ectoparasites such as flukes and
protozoa. These parasites thrive in waters with a high organic load
and, because some of them feed on bacteria, the presence of high
levels of bacteria will encourage an increase in parasites.
There is some evidence that water with a high
organic load can depress the immune system. However, this may be a
result of the increase in parasite and bacteria levels, or it could be
that some organic compounds produced during mineralisation are
stressful to fish.
Organic matter consumes a lot of oxygen while it
is being oxidized or decomposed which could, under certain conditions,
be detrimental to the well-being of the fish
High organic loads are also implicated in
environmental gill disease, a serious and relatively common koi health
problem.
Raised levels of organic compounds can make the
water look mucky, often resulting in foam being produced at water
returns, e.g. filter outlets and waterfalls.

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While high levels of dissolved organic and inorganic
compounds are not directly dangerous, they do encourage disease
and affect overall water quality
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Solid wastes
a source of pollution
In an active koi pond we have two types of
pollution; dissolved and solid. If we could remove the solid wastes from
the system before they had chance to
dissolve and pollute the water we would have better water quality, less
dissolved pollutants and fewer health problems.
Solid wastes and koi health
If we summarize the situation so far, we can see
that if we are to maintain the status quo as far as water quality is
concerned, we need to remove the pollutants at approximately the same
rate as they are produced. We have also seen that the pollution is
basically in three forms: dissolved compounds, such as ammonia,
inorganic pollutants such as phosphate and DOC, and solid particulate
waste.
Unseen but there!
Decomposer microorganisms will ultimately break down
solid waste into a wide range of dissolved pollutants, adding to those
already in the system. It makes no difference where in the system these
solids decompose - the end result will always be the same, that is,
further pollution. This is an important point as many koi-keepers think
that once solid waste is out of sight (in the filter) it is no longer a
problem.
With the rapid throughput of most filters, the
dissolved pollutants produced as these solids break down are quickly
pumped back into the pond. What we really need is two filtration systems
- one that enables us to remove the solid wastes from the system before
it has time to pollute the water and the other to deal with the
dissolved pollutants. After all, if we could remove waste solids from
the system, we would prevent most of the sources of pollution.

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It doesn't matter whether the solid wastes
decompose in the pond or the filter - the result is the same -
polluted water!
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So perhaps, we should look on our filter as a system
of two parts, one part dedicated to removing solid waste matter from the
system (not just the pond) and the other removing dissolved pollutants.
Remember, too, that the pond is also part of the
filtration system, as a significant amount of mineralisation and
nitrification will take place on surfaces within the pond. The pond will
also act as a settlement chamber for solid wastes, which will need
regular removal to prevent them polluting the water. It is my opinion
that the regular removal of accumulating solid wastes presents the
koi-keeper with his or her biggest challenge and a great many problems
will be avoided if this can be done effectively. For regular disposal of
solid waste there are essentially two practical options: settlement and
entrapment.
Settlement areas or chambers have to be fed by
gravity-flow systems, ideally via a bottom drain. This way, solids are
moved gently to a collection area, ready to be flushed out of the
system. The traditional method required a large settlement chamber and
these can be very effective provided that the chamber is large enough
and the flow rate is low enough to give lighter solids time to settle.
The retention time for water in the chamber is important. The retention
time is simply the filter volume divided by the flow rate, thus:
Retention time =filter volume/flow rate
For instance, if a filter has a flow rate of 2,000 gallons per hour
and the settlement chamber holds 200 gallons, then the retention time
will be:
200 gal / 2000 gal per hour = 0.1 hour = 6 minutes.
It has to be said that, in the above example, the
short retention time of 6 minutes is unlikely to be satisfactory,
whereas a chamber volume or capacity of 300 gallons would give a
retention time of 9 minutes, allowing much better settlement.
Having collected solid wastes, it is important that
they are flushed out of the system regularly, before they have time to
decompose. During summer this could be as often as twice a day, and
obviously less frequently in winter. This means that the settlement
chamber will need to have a drain to facilitate easy flushing to waste.
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To maintain good water quality It is
essential that solids are removed from the pond and filter
before they have time to pollute the water
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A better way of collecting solids
An increasingly popular settlement option nowadays
is the cylindrical chamber with conical base that promotes a slow swirl
of water. The cylindro-conical shape encourages settlement of wastes
into the bottom of the cone, where they collect together, making removal
to waste simple and efficient. Again, retention time is important and a
slow throughput will be more successful than a chamber that resembles a
vigorous whirlpool. One should be guided by the manufacturer as to the
right size for your systems but, if in doubt, err on the large side.
When set up correctly these chambers work well and
are probably superior in practice to rectangular settlement chambers of
similar dimensions. Both types need additional cleaning if solids are
not readily flushed to waste since solids may cling to the sides and
there may be areas of poor water flow or 'dead spots'.
Last but not least is the pond itself. Even the
best-designed pond seems to have dead spots, where mulm and fish waste
collect. Any waste that isn't drawn through the bottom drain will need
to be removed from the pond before it pollutes the water and there are
several options, depending on the pond design. It could be gently pushed
towards the drain with a soft broom; the waste could be carefully
removed with a fine net; or the pond could be vacuumed. In most cases it
is probably a question of combining all three actions, with most ponds
benefiting from a regular vacuum during summer.
Entrapment
The most common entrapment systems consist of filter
brushes or sheets of foam. We should consider what type of bacteria
likely to be attached to the brushes or foam, which are heavily loaded
with trapped solids? Common sense tells us that it is going to be
heterotrophic bacteria, and do we really want to encourage high levels
of these bacteria in any part of the system? You will recall that many
heterotrophs are also opportunistic pathogens and are quite happy to
lunch on our koi - given half a chance! Obviously the answer is No. So
the important thing with entrapment is that the entrapment media are
kept clean, otherwise they themselves become a source of pond pollution.

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Any trapped solids must be removed from the
system on a regular basis, otherwise they will simply
decompose and pollute the pond. They will also encourage high
levels of opportunistic bacteria.
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This reminds me of a case last year, when several
fish in a quarantine tank became ill. The tank was spotless yet the fish
had parasites and were suffering from the onset of bacterial problems.
Further investigation showed that while the tank was exceptionally
clean, the filter wasn't. When we took the media out for cleaning, the
smell was overpowering. The media were covered in a yellow slime, which,
of course, was all solid fish waste slowly rotting down. In this case,
the filters were slowly poisoning the fish. Following a good clean out
of the filters, the fish were soon back to normal
By using a combination of settlement and entrapment
it is possible to remove a lot of solids from your pond before they rot
down provided, of course, that these areas are cleaned regularly. If we
are successful in removing solids from the pond before they pollute the
water we are part way to achieving the ideal of unpolluted water.
Sources and types of water pollution
Part 3
Last month we talked about how the following affects our fish ponds
and filter systems:
- It doesn't matter whether the solid wastes decompose in the pond or
the filter - the result is the same -polluted water!
- To maintain good water quality It is essential that solids are
removed from the pond and filter before they have time to pollute
the water
- Any trapped solids must be removed from the system on a regular
basis, otherwise they will simply decompose and pollute the pond. They
will also encourage high levels of opportunistic bacteria.
Biological filtration and filter media
At the heart of a koi pond is the filtration system. To encourage a
vigorous growth
of nitrifying bacteria in the filter we need to keep the filter media
fairly clean, which is often easier said than done! Efficient biological
filtration also depends on the media of choice having an adequate
specific surface area (SSA), adequate voiding and water retention time.
Biological filtration
For good filtration and good water quality very little solid waste
should enter the 'biological' section of the filter. Although, for
simplification, I make a clear distinction between the settlement /
entrapment areas of the filtration system and the biological section, it
is worth remembering that the two are linked, so some nitrification
occurs in the settlement area, and some settlement and Mineralization
occurs in the biological section.
However, the aim is to ensure that conditions in the biological
section are such that vigorous growth of important nitrifying bacteria
is encouraged, while conditions that would promote growth of
heterotrophic bacteria are avoided. Most likely, heterotrophic bacteria
will predominate at the start of the biological section, where the
smaller particles of remaining solid organic matter become trapped. So,
in general, when we refer to the biological section we mean the area
where dissolved pollutants and particulate matter are converted by
microbes into less harmful substances.
To restate the point made previously; the more effective the
settlement area of the filter at removing solid waste, the lighter the
load on the following biological section - provided, of course, that
trapped waste is removed before it decomposes.
More than nitrification
I made the point that a filter does more than simply convert ammonia
to nitrate. Although ammonia is often the most toxic pollutant in a
pond, we should not forget that normal biological, metabolic and
chemical activity produces a wide range of pollutants. Even with the
most effective settlement and entrapment system many organic wastes,
particularly fish feces, will start to decompose, producing various
dissolved organic carbon compounds (DOC). We expect the filtration
system to deal with these pollutants also, not just with metabolic
ammonia.
The diverse range of biochemical processes occurring in the filter
are due to many species of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and various worms
and possibly snails present- not just nitrifying bacteria. However, our
pond husbandry routine should be designed to maintain conditions, which
encourage nitrifying bacteria, and this is achieved by: - Regular
maintenance to keep the biological area clean and free of mulm,
- Reducing the level of dissolved organic compounds by effective
settlement/entrapment, together with regular cleaning of the settlement
area.
If we can remove solids from the system before they decompose and at
the same time keep the biological section of the filter fairly clean we
will;
- Encourage a vigorous growth of nitrifying bacteria
- Reduce the load on the biological section
Filtration how & why
Understanding the fundamentals of biological filtration is helpful in
diagnosing how common fish health problems occur. However, before we
look closer at what goes on in the biological section of a filter, it is
worth considering other important aspects such as filter size,
efficiency and overall design. There are many rough guides to determine
required filter size and flow-rate.
One such suggests that the filter surface area should be
approximately one tenth that of the pond; another, that there should be
a pond turnover rate of once every 2 to 3 hours. While a rough guide is
helpful, the huge variety of different filter media and designs
necessitates a more specific approach. When it comes to water quality
there are three main reasons for why things go wrong:
- Indiscriminate use of chemical treatments, which can damage filter
function
- Poor maintenance of pond or filter
- Poor filter design
It is the latter problem that we need to address first, by
considering exactly what we expect from a filter and what are the basic
parameter values needed for its optimal performance.
Probably one of the most discussed subjects in the hobby of
koi-keeping is the merits of various filter media -and there are
sometimes quite incredible claims made for the various types. But the
first thing to be clear about is that bacteria will thrive on almost any
surface and the particular choice of medium has very little influence on
their growth.
How much surface area?
Nearly all types of filtration system rely on attached-growth
processes in which a bacterial slime layer or biofilm -comprising
bacteria, algae and often-larger invertebrates - forms on the media.
Microorganisms present in the biofilm 'feed' from water that flows past.
So, as a first approximation, the amount of biological activity will be
determined by the amount of available surface area for bacterial
colonization. However, in practice this available specific surface area
(SSA), as it's called, is rarely a limiting factor since most filtration
systems are large.
Obviously, if you had just a square piece of material measuring say I
m x 1 m this would give a total area of two square meters (with both
sides being available for bacterial colonization and assuming almost
zero thickness). Even this small area could support millions of
microorganisms, attached in a slimy biofilm. But typical filter media
have a far greater SSA. For instance, gravel has an available surface
area of about 100 to 200 square meters per cubic meter (100-200 m2/m ).
And other, more specialist media can have significantly more surface
area; for example:
GRAVEL= 100-200 SSA
PLASTIC= 250-300 SSA
MATING= 300-400 SSA
FOAM= 400-500 SSA
So we can see that even a small amount of filter medium provides a
potentially vast SSA for bacterial colonization. Each square meter of
biologically active surface can metabolize nearly one gram of ammonia
per day, dependent on temperature, and given that most ponds will
usually be producing fewer than bog of ammonia per day, the amount of
SSA required is really small - and not a lot of people know that, as
Michael Caine might say. If we based filter sizing on the basis of SSA
alone, filters could be incredibly small -perhaps the size of a shoe
box! However, there are other factors to consider....
Is void Important?
The void size or empty space within a filter medium is important in
determining the right filter size and efficiency. Void size is a measure
of how much of the medium consists of empty space. If we consider sand,
for instance, each particle has a large surface area in relation to its
volume and the total SSA per cubic meter of sand works out at thousands
of square meters. Despite this enormous SSA, sand would make a poor
filter medium because the small particle size would soon lead to
blockages and subsequent 'tracking' as water found the 'easy routes'
round the medium. And, of course, because of the dense packing, any flow
through the sand would be very slow. So, despite its massive surface
area, once compacted and blocked the amount of surface area exposed and
the volume of water that could be treated per hour would actually be
quite small.
There is another important disadvantage of a medium like sand -
retention time, or the amount of time the water spends in contact with
the biofilm. It is obvious that if we wish to avoid blockages and
tracking, some void space in the filter medium or media is desirable. If
we consider a medium such as gravel, although its larger size yields
less SSA it is less prone to tracking and blocking. And specialist media
such as filter matting, plastic or sintered glass have both a large SSA
and a generous void space. In fact, many of them are more than 90% void
or empty space! This makes tracking and blockage almost impossible.

What about cleaning?
Another important consideration - which becomes more important the
longer you keep koi! - Is ease of cleaning. In the early days of the
hobby, part of the novelty lies in spending weekends cleaning and
vacuuming. But after a while, strangely, it seems that there are more
pleasurable ways to spend a sunny Sunday. And with gravel and other
granular media, it really isn't much fun trying to clean several tons of
the stuff! Compared to gravel, cleaning lightweight media is a delight.
Obviously, regular maintenance is somewhat easier if each filter chamber
has its own bottom drain but, even so, ease of maintenance has to be a
major consideration in the choice of filter medium.
The three major factors affecting our choice of filter media are:
- Specific surface area
- Void space
- Cleanability
Next Month in part 4 of this article we will talk about filter flow
rates and retention times
Sources and types of water pollution
Part 4

Last month we talked about how the
following affects our fish ponds and filter systems:
If we can remove solids from the system
before they decompose and at the same time keep the biological section
of the filter fairly clean we will;
 | encourage a vigorous growth of
nitrifying bacteria
|  | reduce the load on the biological
section
|  | the three major factors affecting our
choice of filter media are:
 | specific surface area
 | void space
 | cleanability |
| | |
Filter flow rates and retention times

Calculating ideal flow rates and filter retention
times for koi pond filtration systems can sometimes be contradictory and
for the average koi keeper with modest stocking levels and a reasonable
filter there shouldn't be a problem. But there are a lot of over-stocked
ponds with pretty poor filtration systems - find out why.
Let's get complicated
When it comes to filter sizing, life can get complex.
As I've said, if we only wanted simple nitrification, it is probable
that filter sizes would be small. However, as well as nitrification,
koi-keepers want:
 | 'gin-clear' water,
 | breakdown & removal of DOC,
 | conditions which discourage filamentous algae (string algae),
 | generally optimal water conditions for fish.
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In trying to meet these wide-ranging demands filters
are built far larger than they would be if based on the required SSA of
filter media alone.
The longer the better
Broadly speaking, the effectiveness of biological
filtration is improved the longer the 'polluted' water is held in the
filter - i.e. the longer the retention time. The most
time-consuming process in filtration is the breakdown of dissolved
organic carbon compounds into simple inorganic compounds. These
compounds are ultimately incorporated back into living organisms. This
complex chain of processes is not instantaneous and will, even under
ideal circumstances, take some time. If insufficient filtration time is
available, intermediate products will be pumped out of the filter back
into the pond. This is clearly undesirable and rather defeats the object
of having a filtration system. Indeed, this may well be the reason why
excessive alga growth occurs in some ponds, with the filter merely
producing an endless supply of plant nutrients!
So for how long should water be retained in the
biological section? This depends on how polluted the water is in the
first place. Certainly, industrial water treatment plants - which handle
much higher levels of pollution from sewage etc. - would retain water in
the plant for many hours before it was deemed sufficiently clean to
return to the nearest water-course. Given that pond water is likely to
be only mildly polluted, a retention time of ten minutes, possibly
longer, will usually suffice.
The more polluted the water is, the longer it needs to be retained in
the filter.
Most koi ponds will require a retention time of at least a few minutes
How do you calculate the retention time of your
filter? This is determined by the flow rate and the volume of water in
the filter. If water output from the filter is 2,000 gallons/hour and
the filter contains 500 gallons (when full of media) of water then:

filter retention time = filter size/pump rate,
so, in our example:
retention time =
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500 (gallons) / 2000 (gallons / hour flow rate) = 0.25
hours (which is 15 minutes).
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so a given sample of water will take 15 minutes to pass through the
filter and back to the pond

In the above, the filter capacity represents the
amount of water in the filter - not the physical size of the
filter, which will be greater. The retention time or the size of the
filter will depend to a very large extend on the type of filtration
medium used. A solid medium with low void space such as gravel will
occupy much more filter space than large-pored, lightly packed media and
therefore leads to a lower retention time.
More calculations! Using our same example of a
500-gallon filter. If we now nearly fill it with gravel, the volume of
water it will hold will be reduced substantially - maybe to as little as
150 to 200 gallons. Using the above example, the retention time of such
a filter would now become;
200/2000 = 0.1 hours (6 minutes) or less
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This compares the original estimate of a retention time
of 15 minutes
In comparison, if the same filter was filled instead with
matting or plastic, there would be hardly any displacement and the filter
will probably still hold in excess of 450 gallons, giving a retention time
over double that of gravel. So a filter with a dense, low-void medium,
such as gravel, will need to be substantially larger than one based on
light-weight media, in order to achieve the same retention time, which
explains why koi filters were traditionally so large.
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the retention time and therefore the filter size will depend on
the filter media used. Cheaper, dense media such as gravel will need
larger filters to achieve the same efficiency as lightweight media
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The quicker the better?
Just when everything starts to make sense, along comes a
complication. While a longer filter retention time will produce better water
quality we also have to consider pond turnover times. Why? Because polluted
water is produced in the pond and, if there was a slow turnover at the
filter, it would take longer for pond water to get processed by the filter.
To make sense of pond turnover rates it is helpful to
return to the original analogy of koi being sewage-making machines:
expensive food in one end and sewage out the other. Our seemingly impossible
aim should be to remove this pollution as fast as it is produced. If we can
manage that then we would have perfect water conditions most of the time.
When we are considering pollution the primary concern is
not so much the volume of water, but rather the number of fish and the
amount of food we feed - because this is what determines both the amount of
metabolic ammonia and the quantity and quality of solid waste. There are
several ways to calculate ammonia production in a koi pond. A rough and
ready estimate can be made based on the amount of food fed each day.
Each kilogram (2.2 pounds) of fish food will result, on
average, in 37 grams of ammonia being produced, together with copious feces.
And there is other organic waste, such as that from decomposing algae and
microorganisms. The important point is that as the stocking, and thereby
feeding level, is increased the water will have to be treated at an ever
quicker rate if water quality is to be maintained.
 | If, for instance, we had a pond of 4,500 gallons and the fish were fed
200 grams (7 ounces) of food per day, this would produce approximately
7.5 grams (7,500mg) of ammonia per day, an average of say 300 mg per
hour. (In reality the ammonia level would fluctuate throughout the day,
being highest shortly after feeding).
 | At this feeding rate, if no ammonia was removed, at the end of a day
the ammonia content of the water would be 24 x 300 mg ammonia = 7,200 mg
in 4,500 gallons of pond water, giving an ammonia concentration of 1.6
mg/gallon or 0.37 mg/liter, which is too high.
 | Conversely, if it was possible to remove the ammonia at the same rate
as it is produced - namely, 300 mg per hour - the steady state ammonia
level would be zero. To remove ammonia this quickly we would have to
pass the entire contents of the pond through the filter every hour,
giving a flow-rate of 4,500 gallons/hour, otherwise there will always be
some residual ammonia present.
 | Deep breath! - If, instead of a flow-rate of 4,500 gallons/hour, we
had a flow rate of the pond volume every two hours - or half the pond
volume every hour (same thing), an oversimplified calculation would
give:
 | 300 mg ammonia / 4,500 gallons (pond volume) x 2,250 (flow rate
gallons/hour) = 150 mg ammonia removed per hour, leaving 150mg in the
pond, or a steady state of >0.01 mg / litre. (This makes the
simplifying assumption that there is no nitrification occurring in the
pond.)
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We can see the effects of increased stocking and / or feeding levels if
we take an exaggerated example in which we triple the feeding rate to 600
grams of food per day

600 grams of food per day would produce around 900 mg ammonia per hour.
With the same flow rate we would remove 900 mg ammonia / 4,500 gallons (pond
volume) x 2250 (flow rate gallons /hour) = 450 mg ammonia removed per hour
leaving 450 mg in the pond, or a steady state of 0.02 mg /liter, an
increasingly unacceptable level.

Clearly the only way to balance the increased ammonia
production would be to 'feed' the ammonia to the filter at an
ever-increasing rate.
I should stress that the above examples are an
over-simplification of what actually happens since other factors, such as
nitrification in the pond rather than in the filter, also have to be taken
into account. Indeed, where the flow rates or filter retention times are
less than optimum, an increasing proportion of the ammonia nitrification
will take place in the pond rather than the filter. While it is not
immediately important where in the system nitrification takes place – it
does help to explain why some ponds are more upset as a consequence of
disease treatments than others. However, if flow-rates are kept constant and
the feeding rate is increased, there will be a steady increase in the
background level of ammonia.
It is not necessary to get any further involved in calculations, the
important point is that when high feeding/stocking levels are involved, the
flow-rate is an important factor in determining the ammonia removal rate.
Adequate flow-rate
So what is an adequate flowrate? As explained, it depends on the
feeding rate. The most commonly quoted advice is: turn over the volume of
the pond between 8 and 12 times a day. But it is important to remember that
this is a rule of thumb and flow-rates may well need to be increased for
higher feeding and/or stocking rates. Certainly, koi-keepers who feed in
excess of a half pound of food per day may have to consider increasing flow
rates, particularly if there is a periodic ammonia problem. Conversely, it
may be possible to have a slower rate when feeding levels drop, as they do
in winter.
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the pond flow rate is dependent on the total ammonia
produced within the system, With higher stocking densities there has
to be a corresponding increase in flow rate. In an average koi pond,
a flow rate of 1/2 to 1/3 of pond volume per hour should suffice.
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Filter size
Taking retention times and flow rates into consideration,
when it comes to choosing the right filter size, there are two important but
conflicting factors:
 | the right filter retention time, which ensures all the required
biological activity occurs,
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 | brisk water flow to prevent a high pond ammonia level.
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If we decide that a flow-rate of say 2,250 gallons per
hour and a filter retention time of 10 minutes are required then the volume
of water in contact with the
filter media at any time will need to be;
2,250 gal/60 (minutes) x 10 (minutes retention time) = 375 gallons or 50
ft3.
This means that the filter should be able to hold 50
cubic feet of water after it is filled with media. This is in addition to
settlement and spaces below the media trays. The required size of filter
will then depend on the media used. Using a high-void medium, such as
matting or plastic, we would need a little over 50 ft.3 of media
to compensate for the small amount of water displacement, whereas, with a
solid medium, we might need at least double the size to ensure the same
volume of water in contact with the media after displacement.
Although this may seem complex, these are the factors
which need to be considered to avoid some of the most common filtration
problems which often beset koi-keepers - namely, fluctuating water quality,
high levels of opportunistic micro-organisms and excessive algae growth.
The size of a filtration system becomes more critical as
stocking level, and thereby feeding rates, increase. Even when no new fish
are added, the continued growth of the existing pond occupants will
gradually increase the demand on filter performance.
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Ideally, what we want is a fairly brisk flow-rate, turning over
the pond volume every 1 to 3 hours (depending on feeding and
stocking rate) but at the same time a slow, almost imperceptible
flow through the filter, allowing sufficient time for the various
important biological processes to occur. Water passing through the
filter should be in contact with the filter media, and therefore the
biofilm, for at least ten minutes, possible longer.
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Other considerations
After all this discussion on retention times, flow-rates
and filter media, it is worth considering some other salient aspects of
filter design. Most purpose-made, retail filter units are practical and well
designed but I have to say that some are pretty poor, for the following
reasons.
 | Apart from overall filter size, which we have already discussed,
another important aspect is shape and water transfer between the
chambers. There is little point in having several cubic meters of
expensive filter medium if it is not properly utilized. The design of a
filter system should be such that water passes evenly through all of the
media and not just at one end or through the center.
 | Ideally, transfer ports should be the full width of the chamber;
otherwise there will be a tendency to create a narrow channel of water
flowing into the next chamber, leading to
 | 'dead' spots within the chamber. Square chambers are not the most
efficient, giving little water flow in the comers. This drawback has
been overcome in some cases by the used of curved or circular chambers,
giving a more effective 'working' area within the chamber. With careful
design it is also possible to create a swirling motion as water is
transferred from one chamber to the next. This helps avoid dead spots,
giving an even flow through the media and, to a lesser degree, will help
settle some of the finer solids.
 | Just as important in filter design is ease and efficiency of
maintenance. The best design is for each filter chamber to have a
bottom-drain for easy cleaning, and the base should be benched or sloped
towards the drain. Regular flushing of the bottom drain in each chamber
will help clear away fine solids; and periodic cleaning of chambers by
emptying them and flushing the media with pond water will prevent a
build-up of unwanted mulm and other organic debris.
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So there we have it - the basic requirements for good
filter design and performance. All filters will comply with these guidelines
to a great extent. At the end of the day the proof of the pudding is in the
eating and if your filters provide consistent good water quality (to the
five point standard), nice clear water and you don't have to spend half the
week end cleaning it - then you probably have things about right. If
however, you are constantly having nagging water quality or fish health
problems...
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