Writing and Drawing

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I put a ball (a squishy one made for grasping and squishing with the fingers as a strength exercise that my PT said was a bad idea) around my pen (a very slippery one is the pilot precise) by poking a hole through the ball and putting the pen through it. Then I HAD to hold the whole apparatus softly or the ball would squish. Sometimes I just cupped my hand and rested the ball in it with the pen poking down between fingers, and wrote with the movement coming from the shoulder.
    I also experimented with tying the pen onto hands, wrists, etc- no success there.
    Also practiced ambidexterity -- frustrating like crazy, I can tell you!
    Hope this helps. --Sarah

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I think the Pilot Dr. Grip Is a wonderful device. I try to use mine exclusively (actually, I have two of them). I've noticed that there is an annoying bit of glue or sticky stuff on the nib of the refills I've gotten. Besides that, I'd recommend it highly.
    Does anyone have any recommendations for mechanical pencils? Good fat ones?

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I've been tanght to uso my whole arm, with minimal wrist motion, when writing. Takes getting used to but helps a lot. --Bob

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
My son bought me a Pilot Dr. Grip pen. I am able to write with it a little longer than a regular pen. It also came with a mail-in coupon on the back for 2 free ink refills. If my thumbs are too bad, I hold my thumb out straight and hold the pen somehow between my straight thumb and first two fingers. It's awkward, but you do what you have to do I guess. --Donna

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I am a fan of soft lead. It really makes a difference in how much force you have to apply. My sorehands (really sore lately) can tell the difference in just a few letters.
    I like to take a paper mate sharp writer disposable pencil and( I don't usually recommend disposable "stuff", but in this instance it is the only way to go.) add a rubber grip to it. It has very soft lead, and as I make lots of mistakes it's easy to "fix". I use standard grap-ons available in office supply stores.
    Some folks like a product I found at Smith & Nephew Rolyan, Inc. #800-558-8633 PN --IA703-55 , 4 pc for $8.95
    It looks like old hair roller foam.....and is about 3/4 " in Dia. It's a closed cell foam....soft and almost "sticky". It allows a large reduction in grip force, and is very comfortable. .....bob

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I love the new Pentel Gizmo. On the same par (size-wise) as Dr. Grip, in .5 and .7, rubberized grip, completely retractable point/guide, decently made, and CHEAP! Just bought a couple more TWO-PACKS at Best Buy today for $2.89 each. I've got about a half-dozen swimming in the desk detritus that surrounds me so I can put my hands on one when I need it. --Bob

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I will second the Pentel Gizmo nomination
    I use a fountain pen which requires the least amount of force to overcome the coefficient of friction of all pens.
    The Ring Pen is also an alternative to consider. Though it comes w/ball point refill only.
    The Pilot Zebra is a rolling point pen w/ lg diameter and conforming shape. --Chris, a PT

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
Y'all may want to check out sorehander John Lloyd & co.'s pen comparison at the Center for Product Ergonomics, University of South Florida, http://com1.med.usf.edu/cpe/cpe.htm.

Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
> I've been tanght to uso my whole arm, with minimal wrist motion, when
> writing. Takes getting used to but helps a lot.

I agree that this is a good idea.
    Let me add that I think the ultimate point of this kind of practice is to learn to move your wrist, arm, shoulder, and even spine in a smoothly coordinated fashion as you write.
    When I use my habits of separating movements in different parts of my body, holding some rigid, forcing others to move awkwardly, every movement piles on pain and tension. But when I learn to unify the movement of different parts of my body, movement leads to a release of tension.
    If you use the intention "write with minimal wrist motion," that will force your arm and upper body to get involved. They might not, however, get involved in a coordinated way.
    In fact, I find that no single intention, by itself, leads to smooth movement. Intending to move smoothly doesn't help me all that much. Other intentions, like minimizing wrist motion, help me for a short time but quickly lose their effectiveness. Apparently, smooth movement just isn't in my repertoire of intentions.
    The trick is to use an indirect approach oriented toward increasing awareness. That will lead to unconscious learning as well as a broadening of the repertoire of intentions. One possibility is to compare two different intentions. For example, write a bit in your normal fashion. Then write a bit while thinking "minimize writst motion." Switch back and forth. Compare the two. Compare how they make different demands on your body. Where does each seem to require effort? Which parts of your body remain still? Take a rest break; you are resting your mind, not your body, and in fact you may notice that your mind seems to be processing something. During rest breaks I notice that parts I was just moving twitch a bit, and after each twitch seem to settle down into a more restful position than before I started. Begin to write again. How does writing feel now, compared to just before the break? --Mike

Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996
Subject: Soft Lead Pencils
Since this has arisen again, I'd like to remind folks to try drawing pencils from an art supply--there is a wide selection of softnesses in lead and you should be able to try 'em at the store before purchasing to find the softness level of your dreams. They are also the old standby of lead encased in wood and you are not adding to the nondisintegrating piles of plastic garbage in the world. And "ye olde curler foam" mentioned by Bob will slip right onto these for grip comfort. --Trina

Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996
Subject: Re: Writing/painting
I have tried lots of different pens, but I still like Pascarelli's tip on using hair curlers the best. .02 --Melissa
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Foot Switch for a PC Mouse

We were given permission to post the following instructions for building this nifty foot switch, which can be made for about $10.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADDING A FOOT SWITCH TO A MOUSE
by Tad Snow (tadsnow@dsl.whoi.edu)

NOTES:
- Please don't be scared by the length off these instructions; the modifications aren't that complicated, I've just tried to be thorough.)
- Please send me a quick email at tadsnoww@dsl.whoi.edu if you use these instructions so I can know if they are helping people. Also email if you have input on how to clarify or otherwise improve upon what I have written. Thanks.

OVERVIEW:
To add a foot switch to your mouse you will take your mouse apart, solder two wires to the terminals of the desired mouse switch and cut a notch in the housing (to prevent the wires to from interfering with reassembly of the mouse). To the other end of these wires you will solder a connector into which you can plug an off the shelf foot switch from Radio Shack. When done the mouse button can be "clicked" by using the foot switch or by using the original mouse button (i.e. adding the foot switch does not change the normal functioning of the mouse).
    For those who know a little about electronics: You are going to connect a second switch (i.e., the foot switch) in parallel with the existing mouse button switch. Having done so, either switch can be used to close the button circuit.

NOTE: The foot switch will wear out after several months, depending on your level of use. When this happens, simply unplug the dead switch and plug in a new one.

ASSUMED SKILLS: These instructions assume that you know how to use an ohm meter and that you know how to use a soldering iron. If you don't have these skills, don't panic; you probably know a dozen people who do. Try to find someone who works with electronics, fixes their own car, or does their own electrical wiring in their house to help you.

PARTS LIST:
(1)  Remote Foot Switch
      (Radio Shack Cat. No. 44-610)
      $3.99 each

(1)  3/32 " enclosed, closed circuit phone jack
      (Radio Shack Cat. No. 274-247)
      $1.99 for package of two

      4 ft. small gage (i.e. small diameter), two conductor wire
      (or two 4 ft. lengths of single conductor wire)

TOOLS:
small Philips head screwdriver
ohm meter
wire strippers
soldering iron (one with a fairly small tip) solder
file or small drill (see step 10)

STEPS:
1. Turn off your computer.
2. DISCONNECT THE MOUSE FROM THE COMPUTER.
3. Remove the ball and its retaining disk from the underside of the mouse.
4. Remove all the screws from the underside of the mouse. Carefully separate the two halves of the mouse housing.
5. Look at the mouse circuit board and find the switch for the mouse button you want to add the foot switch to. In my mouse it is a black block shaped piece of plastic with an orange button on top. Basically, if you find something that clicks when you push it, that's a switch.
6. Remove the screws that mount the circuit board to the mouse housing(there may not be any screws. If so, look for molded in snap fingers,i.e. little flexible arms of plastic which lock the board in place. If there are snap fingers, carefully bend them back (one at a time) until you have worked the board free).
7. Look at the underside of the circuit board. Find the solder pads located directly below the switch you are adding the foot switch to.
8. Set the ohm meter to measure resistance. Hold the meter probes against the two solder pads that you think are associated with the switch and simultaneously press the switch button. If you have the correct solder pads, the resistance should drop to zero while the button is depressed and should become extremely large when you release the button. If you aren't getting these results, test different combinations of solder pads until you do.
9. Solder one wire to each of the switch pads. Make sure that the wires are directed towards the front of the mouse (i.e. where the existing mouse wire enters the mouse) and that they lay as flat against the bottom of the electronics board as possible (you don't want the wires to prevent the board from fitting back into the mouse housing). Make sure that you don't inadvertently create a short circuit between solder pads; clip off any excess wire protruding from the joints and check for solder bridges (i.e. excess solder which runs from one pad to another).
10. You need to cut a notch or drill a hole in the front edge of the mouse housing for the wires to pass through (otherwise the mouse will not go back together properly). Put this near the existing mouse wire but make sure that the way you do this doesn't interfere with the proper functioning of the mouse switches or the proper reassembly of the mouse. (A file is a good tool for making a notch).
11. Solder a wire to each of the outer terminals of the phone jack (Radio Shack part no. 274-247). Ignore the middle terminal; you don't need it. (NOTE: if you drilled a hole in the previous step, make sure that you thread the wires through this hole BEFORE you solder to the phone jack).
12. Plug in the foot switch and use the procedure described in step 8 above to test both it and the mouse button. When either switch is depressed, there should be zero resistance between the solder pads. When neither switch is depressed, there should be very large resistance between the pads. If this is not the case, check for accidental short circuits and double check that you have soldered to the correct pads.
13. Reassemble the mouse. Spirally wrap the to wires around the length of the mouse cord. This will keep the wires from getting in your way as you use the mouse.
14. Plug the mouse back into your computer.
15. Start your computer and test the mouse.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR MICROSOFT MOUSE OWNERS:
(note: some of these instructions may apply to other mice if they are similar in design to the Microsoft Mouse).
    Step 6 requires you to remove the circuit board from the mouse. For the Microsoft mouse you will have to remove the encoder wheels before this can the done. To remove the encoder wheels use your thumb nail to carefully bend the support closest to the wheel away from the wheel while pulling up on the wheel shaft. The encoder wheel/shaft will pop out. After you have removed both encoder wheel/shaft pieces, remove the circuit board by carefully deflecting the two snap fingers located between the screw hole posts while pulling up on the board.
    To reassemble the mouse in Step 13 snap the circuit board back in, then snap the encoder wheels back into place ( press the wheel end of shaft into place first, then snap the other end of the shaft into place).

USING THE FOOT SWITCH
I have found the following arrangement to be most comfortable for me. I rest the middle of the arch of my foot on the 1.5 inch tall support (a length of 3/4 x1.5 wood) which lets me keep my foot in a comfortable, level position. To actuate the primary ( i.e. most frequently used) switch I briefly tip my heel down. To actuate the secondary switch by briefly tip the ball of my foot down. The piece of wood supports the weight of your leg between mouse clicks. Without a support, you have to use your muscles to hold up your foot and / or leg so that the weight of your leg does not actuate the switch. This is very tiring. With the support muscle action is only required when you actuate one of the foot switches.

____________
|          |
|          |
|          |  secondary foot switch, actuated by ball of foot
|          |
|__________|

____________
|__________|  support,1.5 inches tall (middle of arch of foot rests
here)

____________
|          |
|          |
|          |   primary foot switch, actuated by heel
|          |
|__________|

Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 21:47:50
Subject: foot switches - Stingray trackball
Reading this page gave me the idea to use a foot mouse. First I started using an old Microspeed trackball that I have, and putting it on the floor. The buttons were a little hard to feel for with my toe so I took some velcro strips, which are self-adhesive, and cut them to fit the left and right buttons. The rough texture makes it easy to find.
    Just being able to rest my hands for a few seconds is a huge help - I put them in my lap after, for example, moving the pointer to the scroll bar.
    The other day I was at Fry’s. I saw a STINGRAY trackball there for about $60, and bought it. It works very well as a foot mouse because it has two large buttons on either side. IT is working great.
    It comes with programmable software but I have not tried that. Now I cannot conceive of not using foot switches. --Lorin Roche
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