L A S   B O N S A I                   


                     THE FERTILIZER


The plants  require to live of food and for this they absorv through their roots minerals that they extract from the earth. 

As the bonsai is planted  in small pots, the quantity of food that they can find in them is limited, then it is necessary to replace with fertilizer what the tree consumes. 

The elements needed to have a healthy bonsai and in good conditions are  the

MACRO ELEMENTS (N, P, K)  and in a smaller proportion the

MICRO  ELEMENTS (iron, zinc, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, manganese, molybdenum, boron, copper and other)

THE MACRO ELEMENTS

What is N-P-K? 

N = Nitrogen         P = Phosphorus          K = soluble Potassium

N = Nitrogen.     This element controls the growth of the leaves and of the plant. Too much nitrogen is harmful, because the plant develops very large leaves, very dark green and delays the production of the flower and the maturing of the wood. An indication of the lack of nitrogen is given by the pale color and the poor growth of the leaves. 

P = Phosphorus.  This encourages the growth of roots and of flowers. Opposed to the effect of the nitrogen, a plant will not take more phosphorus that it requires. A lack of it is indicated by a reddish color in the leaves and a upside curvature. The phosphate applied at the beggining of the summer for aproximately two months, in correct quantities for bonsai, will improve the quantity of flowers, as well as the quality of flowers. 

K = Potassium.   The potassium contributes in the maturing of the wood and enlarges the absorption capacity of roots; makes a plant strongest. A lack of  potassium is evident by brownish spots and by crisp edges of the leaves. 

THE MICRO ELEMENTS 

The bonsai trained in pots often cannot grow correctly due to a deficiency of the micro nutrients. The soil can be under-fed, and can induce the weakening of the bonsai. A balanced mixture of micro nutrients benefits the growth and the diet of the trees. An application will last al least 180 days. These micro nutrients or micro elements are used in addition to the fertilizer. 


TYPES OF FERTILIZERS

There are two types of fertilizers, the liquids and the solids. 

LIQUID FERTILIZER
The liquids are quickly absorved by the tree, but they also remain less time in the soil, since through the permanent irrigation it is dragged out of the pot, so it must be added more frequently.


When using liquid fertilizers, it is recommended to dilute the solution recommended by the manufacturer halfway in water, to avoid an overdose that will damage the bonsai. 

Example:     If the manufacturer indicates 1 cc (or ml) by liter of water

                   We will use 0,5 cc (or ml) by liter of water

SOLID FERTILIZER
The solid fertilizers that are used in bonsai are generally of organic matter and of slow disolution and absorption. 

The chemical solid fertilizers are not recommendable in bonsai, since they burn the roots. 

When washing the organic solid fertilizer the water  will absorb a small proportion of nutrients and will deliver them to the roots of the bonsai. Due to this effect the degradation of the solid fertilizer is very slow and we only must replace the pellets or cakes every three months approximately. 

The advantage of the solid fertilizer is that there is not risks of overdose, therefore the roots of the bonsai will not burn. 


WHEN TO FERTILIZE

The deciduous leaf bonsai are fertilized , every 15 to 20 days, starting at the beggining of  spring, or when you notice some activity in the buds, till the begining of  autumn, with an interruption in the month with the more extreme heat of summer. With excessive temperature the tree stops growing, therefore does not need fertilizer. 

It is not convenient to use fertilizer with a very high value(%) in nitrogen , since this will increase the growth of leaves and produce long internodes, that will damage the aesthetics of our tree. 

In autumn we will use a rich phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, this will fortify the tree for the dormant season and in the other hand we will obtain better flowering in the following spring. 

The evergreen bonsai (junipers, cedars, azaleas, etc) they maintain the same regime described previously, but in the trees of flower and fruits we must not fertilize in the  flowering period. In winter we may fertilize but with greater distance between  fertilizing events, (each 30 days), since there is a very reduced activity in the tree. 

A very important recommendation is that when using liquid fertilizers the bonsai should be well watered to avoid over feed and  root burn. We do not have this problem with the solid fertilizers. 

WHEN NOT TO FERTILIZE

- Sick or weak tree

- After repotting (at least 30 days without fertilizer)

- With high temperatures

- With low temperatures

- When the tree do not have leaves


back to index