The Jakarta Post, February 26, 2006
Ambon: Renewal and Relaxation
Christopher Dickson, Contributor, Ambon
Ambon -- the capital of the Maluku islands. One of the centers of the spice trade
during that heralded, but controversial age more than 350 years ago. A city whose
status and importance exceeded tha! t of Jakarta during that period, so much so that
Amboina (as Ambon was officially known at the time) was also called the "Queen of
the East".
However, Ambon's reputation of late has been rather tainted by more recent, tragic
events. A quick Google search of "Ambon" mainly brings up negative articles and
accounts of the communal strife and conflict that erupted in the city more than five
years ago, a situation that was stoked in no small amount by the intervention and
manipulation of outside forces, on both official and unofficial levels (and that comment
is commonly heard from local people).
But that was then, and Ambon and it's people have, with the encouragement of
community leaders and a progressive-minded governor, sought to move forward and
put the bad times well and truly in the past.
The downtown area of Ambon city certainly is vibrant, noisy and full of positive
energies. One is struck by the cleanliness and smoothness of city streets -- very few
potholes to negotiate in driving to destinations further afield. And a nice balance of
modern traffic and numerous well-maintained and colorful becak or rickshaw. I would
suggest that Ambon could boast of having the loudest, fastest becak drivers in the
country, but more about that later.
And of course, characteristic of most Indonesian cities are the religious buildings --
the grand green-painted Jame Mosque on Jl. Sangali, and a few blocks further on the
recently restored Catholic cathedral on Jl. Pattimura.
Pattimura. Every city seems to have a Jl. Pattimura, but Ambon proudly boasts of
being the region from which the nationalist hero opera! ted against Dutch colonial
forces in 1817, and facing the city sports field and governor's office is a rather
cartoon-like statue of Thomas Matulessy, aka Pattimura. Not exactly a work of the
standards of a Michelangelo or a Bellini, but at least he is their hero. My own
hometown in New Zealand has numerous statues of significant regional and historical
figures -- none of whom were born in New Zealand.
For a beautiful view of the city from on high, go up to the (far more dignified) Martha
Christina monument on Karang Panjang Hill. Another Moluccan patriot, she also led a
rebellion against the Dutch around the same time as her more famous counterpart,
Pattimura, and later died in exile in Batavia, now Jakarta.
An acid test for the stability and safety of a city of size is often the events of New
Year's Eve, so one had to have a look at the festivities of Jan. 31. Sur! e, I was
accompanied (and, I guess, protected) by a couple of local characters, so navigating
the chaotic streets was all the easier. A stage assembled near the downtown area for
the New Year's party was the scene for various local groups playing everything from
dangdut to reggae to local Ambonese pop, the fireworks (both homemade and
manufactured) were ear-splitting and, ahhh, rather hazardous.
And yes, there were just a few young fellas just a bit the "worse for wear"; perhaps
the local arack (fermented coconut juice -- a drink for lying down and avoiding) had
taken its toll. However, Ambon certainly felt safer and friendlier than many cities in
Europe, North America and Australasia (including my own) at the stroke of midnight,
and goodwill was there in spades. I may not be a local, but was certainly made to feel
like one, and the casualness with which the bemo driver accepted me as a passeng!
er back to my hotel.
But a nice refuge from the city noise and comparative chaos (especially after a rather
exhausting New Year's revelry, ahem) is the nearby beach area of Latuhalat. A lovely
30-minute drive along the coast of the Leitimur Peninsula west from Ambon city (on
one of the best built and maintained country roads I have yet seen in Indonesia), one
passes a couple of World War II Japanese pillboxes, the entrance to the Siwalima
Museum (which is reached up a sloping road that passes a dilapidated wartime
Japanese military office, with two huge artillery guns still in their emplacements' well
worth a look) and Ambon's most prominent running joke -- the Hollywood sign.
Painted by local youths a few years ago, the large, expertly painted letters spelling
out the name are best seen from boat, and even are visible from incoming planes.
Apparently a suburb of a North American city has the same sign up in its hills.
Copyca! ts.
I am not a diver. I hold to the nautical equivalent of Churchill's infamous maxim about
golf, but snorkeling does it for me. Less preparation and time. But despite not being a
diver, I highly recommend the Malauku Dive Center at Latuhalat Beach as a base for a
stay in Ambon, for diving, snorkeling and other excursions, or simply for "chilling out".
Just across the road from the renovated house that serves as the center is the beach,
and snorkeling about 20 meters out from the shoreline one can see low barrel
sponges, coral trees, oversized gorgonian fans. Well, actually, I borrowed that bit from
a diving guide in the center, but I did see heaps of coral, and I am sure I sighted the
William Dafoe-voiced Bannerfish from Finding Nemo. But do be very careful of the
coral near the shoreline, they are sharp and abrasive.
The Maluku Dive Center is co-owned and operated by Americans Mike Hillis and John
(Buck) Randolph, and Indonesian Gatut Haribowo. John and Mike are laid-back,
low-key characters who have both lived in Indonesia for a number of years, obviously
have a genuine commitment to this country and are impressively fluent in Indonesian.
But it is most pleasing to see that so much of the operation and initiative seems to be
in the hands of the local Malukan staff (who derive from Ambon, the Bandas, the Keis,
Aru, as far afield as the Tanimbar islands, and a mix of Christian and Muslim religious
affiliations). This does not at all come across as a shady little bule "let's exploit the
locals and make a quick buck scheme". The diving staff are all PADI trained, so for
divers, safety considerations are more than covered.
The center can also serve as a base for excursions (one-day or longer) to nearby
islan! ds such as Seram or Saparua. The folks there are prepared to help with
anything from finding an ATM to picking you up at the airport (and Yongc, the driver,
drives "Surabaya-style", so strap yourself in and enjoy the sounds of Tantowi Yahya
or Alpha Blondy).
Latuhalat definitely has a strong feeling of Latino Manana about it, and reminds one of
an island of the Caribbean or the West Indies. The garishly painted becak pound out
bass sounds from their boom-boxes (someone is doing a roaring trade in these
things), and nearby houses are, well, doing the same. Reggae, dangdut and, perhaps,
Bintang. The area proliferates with coconut palms and banana trees. No one seems to
be in a hurry out there, the people take the time to speak to you, and do not seem to
be subject to the unspoken rules of social etiquette and restraint seen in other areas
of Indonesia.
So, 10 years ago Ambon was sometimes a port of call for luxury cruise ships such as
the QEII, was the end line for an annual sailing race from Darwin, was world-renowned
for its unique diving opportunities and as a gateway to the richness of the Maluku
group of islands both to the north and south, and was a spot of unique historical and
cultural interest. The sailing race resumes in July this year, those gorgeous coral
reefs are still to be found, and the becak drivers are waiting outside Ambon Plaza.
Make their day, and come out here and take a ride -- but avoid the arack on New
Year's Eve.
Travel Notes:
Mandala and Lion airlines fly daily to Ambon via Makassar, and an alternative is to fly
from Bali.
The Maluku Dive Center (tel. (0911-323882) can be contacted at
www.unexploredadventures.com, or email them at info@unexploredadventures.com.
In Ambon city center, the Hotel Manise is recommended (tel. 0911-1353888).
Special Note:
A number of national embassies currently have advisories on travel to Ambon, and it
would not be my place to recommend in the face of these. However, my suggestion:
use your own judgment.
All contents copyright © of The Jakarta Post.
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