The Humble Wisdom of Lord Greysleeve Streambank,
Warmage
October 2000
To the Reader:
Since the life of a young Warmage has changed quite a bit since most of the established wizard-guide-writers were young, I decided that I shall take it upon myself to author a new guide specifically for Warmages. Nothing here is an ironclad rule unless I so declare; the majority of it is my observation and opinion. Feel free to listen or not listen as you see fit. If you note anything that’s wrong, out of date, or unclear, please contact me so I may correct or clarify it.
Most of this document will be presented as a series of short topical sections, in order to facilitate finding what you seek. Each is somewhat self-contained; they can be understood on their own, but are designed as a comprehensive set and therefore may carry more meaning when read together. I will not be held responsible for any information presented herein, as the lands are in a continual state of flux and any information presented may be out of date.
By definition this is a guide for Warmages (warrior-style wizards). Some information may be relevant to "Spellcasters" (or pure-caster wizards) but not necessarily. I would refer Spellcasters to other guides, specifically those authored by Lord Celtic.
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-Lord Greysleeve Streambank, House Brigatta
whitestar77@earthlink.net
Grey on Warmages:
In my opinion there are two distinct types of wizards – Warmages and Spellcasters. Don’t misread this: I don’t intend to say Warmages like myself don’t cast spells. It’s just that they are not our primary combat implement; we prefer a nice sharp blade. Because of this, we often come from among the larger, stronger races like giantmen, humans or half-elves. Half-elves are perhaps the most popular and best choice, because of their balance of strength and dexterity. The ability to effectively use both swords and spells can be greatly beneficial later on in life. While giantmen and humans do better with a blade than half-elves, half-elves have the advantage of being good with a blade, while still having slightly above average spellcasting ability. Spellcasters often stick to the weaker, more dextrous races – including, classically, halflings and most types of elves.
Because of my experience in the field, this guide is designed
for Warmages and much of the information may not pertain to Spellcasters
ones. Some information, however, will pertain to all wizards equally. In
writing a guide for Warmages and not for Spellcasters, I do not
intend to imply one being superior to the other; only that my knowledge
of one is vastly superior to my knowledge of the other.
Grey on Creation and Evolution:
Wizards, like most other spell-using classes, are not born with all their abilities, and must grow over time. However, it’s also important how they start out as well as how they proceed.
When creating your character, I would attempt to get a set of die rolls with one above 90, three in the 80’s, three in the 50’s and three in the 40’s, and which gives a total of about 620. Getting a roll like that will take a long time, and in one or two cases it’s okay if you don’t quite reach these guidelines. But keep in mind the better roll you have the better off you will be. Any amount of time you spend on this will be well rewarded later in life, I assure you... I usually spend 3-5 hours on this stage when I create a new character.
Placing these stats is also important. As a Warmage, I would put your 90’s roll in Strength, with 80’s following in Reflex, Dexterity, and Aura. In Aura we get a +10, and you want this to be in the high 90’s after the bonus. Of these four, Reflex is the only one that does not absolutely need to be in the high group. It affects your DS, which is important, but the others affect your AS and mana supply, and with all the DS spells we have it’s not as high a priority as the others. The placement of the rest of the stats are pretty much up to you, but from experience, Charisma and Constitution you can afford to drop low, and Wisdom can also be lower than the others if needs be. You get another +10 in Intelligence; this and Discipline and Logic affect mental training and experience absorption, so having them high is good. In total you will need no less than 45 physical and 36 mental training points, and the more the better.
Race is also important as it affects your abilities. Giantmen make the best pure sword-wizards, as they get +15 to sword AS. However they take a penalty to spell AS, and to DS. Human have none of these penalties, but a much smaller +5 sword AS. Half-elves, on the other hand, get no sword AS boost, but do get +5 spell AS, and also bonuses to DS and to stats that affect roundtime.
When training your Warmage, you will need to train in:
1 Shield training every level
1 Weapon training every level (choose Edged or Blunt and stick to it)
2 Spell Research trainings every level
2 Spell Aiming trainings every level
1 Physical Training every level, until you max out your HP
1 Armor Training, levels 0-3, which will allow you to wear Full Leather with no RT penalty or spell hinderance (I strongly, strongly recommend that you do not wear any armor heavier than full leather, because you will suffer occasional spell failure because of your armor if you do.)
1 Mana Sharing training, levels
4-27
Supplement this plan with Climbing, Swimming, Magic Item Use, Scroll Reading, and Combat Maneuvers as points and style allow or require.
This training regime, while not completely ironclad, has
served me well into my 50’s, and I have not seen a need to seriously modify
it yet.
Grey on Learning Spells:
Each wizard customizes their own spell training – the order in which they learn given spells. You should be learning two spells every level. As a Warmage you will mainly be needing the defensive and offensive enhancement spells and the two Haste spells. In which exact order you learn these spells is up to you, but here are the maximum spells I believe you should know at various benchmark points:
6th level: 406, 506, 902
14th level: 414, 514, 902
18th level: 414, 514, 910
25th level: 419, 514, 919
28th level: 425, 514, 919
31st level: 430, 514, 920
33rd level: 430, 518, 920
38th level: 430, 518, 930
After 38: advance toward 475 and 525 (this maxes out
the bonuses on 425 and 430, and gives you all the implemented spells, by
about level 65.)
Defensive Enhancement Spells: 401, 406, 414, 419, 430, 503, 507, 905,
911, 919
Offensive Enhancement Spells: (411), 425, 506, 509, 514
You may be wondering why I advise to get the 900 series
spells so late, in the beginning. This is because as a Warmage, you will
mainly be using your sword for fighting well into your 20's. Defense and
offense enchancements, especially haste and haste two, will be your staples
in this period. Also, attack spells eat up a lot of mana, and you cannot
effectively cast the most useful of them (906 and 910) in combat until
your mid-teens. This plan will give you the more useful enhancement spells
first, and the bolt spells at about the same age that they become useful.
Grey on Using Spells:
It is important to know, both in choosing which spells to use and when to learn them, what each spell does. Therefore, I present here a concise explanation of each spell available to wizards and their functions and, in most cases, their ‘popular’ names.
In spelling up yourself or others, note that the time-stackable spells may not be stacked for more than 4 hours.
Minor Elemental Spells (available to several classes)
401. (Silveries) +5 DS, 1 minute per level per cast, time
stackable
402. Allows you to detect hidden or invisible people
in the room. May also increase perception temporarily.
403. (Locklore) Boost to lockpicking ability. +10 plus
+1 per level, halved when it is not selfcast.
404. (Traplore) Similar effect to 403, but enhances trap
disarming ability.
405. (Detection) Allows you to detect the spells resident
on a person or in an item. Also allows you to identify imbeddable items
and the controllers of familiars.
406. (Brights) Similar to 401, but gives +10 DS.
407. (Pop) Opens boxes. Try never to use this on trapped
boxes. Fused, mithril, and enruned boxes are immune to the spell. Can be
used with 403.
408. Disarms traps on boxes, and can also be used to
neutralize scarabs. When used on boxes, it is very unreliable. Can be used
with 404.
409. (EBlast) A CS-based attack spell.
410. (EWave) A spell which can knock down, send into
offensive stance, and put into a long roundtime anyone or thing in the
room not in the caster’s group.
411. (EBlade) Temporarily enhances a normal weapon to
+20 with elemental flares. The flares are determined when you first cast
the spell and are always the same thereafter, but different casters get
different flares. Lasts 3 x caster’s level in swings.
412. Supposedly drops the AS of the target; never used
it, don’t know how it works.
413. Drops the TD of the target. However, it requires
a TD check, so it’s not too useful. Only used this one once or twice.
414. (Brillies, Guards) Similar to 401 and 406, except
it gives +25 DS.
415. (Estrike) Another CS-based attack spell.
416. Allows you to see the contents of a closed container.
417. (Dispel) Trashes prepped spells, dispells enhancement
spells, or does in enchantments on the target, in that order. Can be very
dangerous to use in quantity on a player, even yourself, because of the
enchantment dispelling ability.
418. (Node) Can create a temporary, mana-only node in
the room you’re in, but it can have catastrophic failures that can kill
you, and it dissipates if you leave the room. Not used this one much and
I’m not planning to for a while yet. According to one analysis program
I’ve seen I would have a 20% chance of failing and I’m in my mid-50’s.
419. (Guards) A mass-cast version of 414. Thus, if you
cast one cast of 414 and one of 419, it would be just like having two of
414. Affects anyone in the caster’s group when it is cast, whether they
remain in the caster’s group or not.
420. (Imbed) Allows you to place spells in certain items
for later use. These include amulets and rings and wands, among others.
There are whole guides on the use of this spell.
425. (Targetting) +25 AS, plus +1 AS for each 2 spell
trainings beyond 425 in this circle, maxing at +50 (475). ½ minute
per level, non-stackable, selfcast only. Recently modified, it is now refreshable.
430. (Barrier) +30 DS, plus +1 DS for each 2 spell trainings
beyond 430 in this circle, maxing at +50 (470). ½ minute per level,
non-stackable, selfcast only. Recently modified, it is now refreshable.
Major Elemental and Wizard Spells (available to wizards only):
501. (Sleep) CS-based, puts your target to sleep and knocks
them down with a +126 or better sum. Mana cost is variable, at ½
the level of the target, rounded up, capped at 20.
502. Allows you to store a spell to cast later. Stores
the next spell you prepare, as long as you do it within the next 30 seconds.
503. (Blur) +10 DS, 1 minute per level per cast, time
stackable
504. (Slow) Increases target’s RT by 3 seconds for 1
minute.
505. (Hand) Can be used to stun others with a CS-based
roll, also can dispel clouds.
506. (Haste) Decreases target’s RT by 3 seconds for 1
minute. Great for use with wands. Not stackable or refreshable.
507. (Deflects) +20 DS, 20 seconds per level per cast,
time stackable
508. (Elemental Bias) +20 TD, duration unknown to me,
time stackable. I have never used this one, but it would be useful going
up against CS-type casters.
509. (Strength) A must for any Warmage. +15 AS (sword
only) for ½ minute per level per cast, time stackable.
510. (Unpain) restores up to 50 hp. Dangerous, as it
lasts 10 minutes and then you lose the same number of hp you gained. Seen
folks die from relying on this.
511. (Disk) One of the ones people pay for. A magical
container that has your name on it and follows you around till you tell
it to go away, die, change towns, or log off.
512. (Slow II) Double-effect version of Slow.
513. (Focus) A no-no unless you're only using spells.
+20 to spell AS, -40 to sword AS, ½ minute per level per cast, time
stackable.
514. (Haste II) The most awesome spell around. Drops
target’s RT by 6 seconds, allowing you to swing your sword as fast as you
can input the commands, if your normal RT is 6 or less. Like Haste, it
lasts 1 minute per cast and is not stackable or refreshable.
515. (Rapid Fire) Automatically re-prepares any spell
cast in the next minute. Good when you’re casting a lot of the same spell
in a row.
516. (Mana Leech) Allows you to siphon off someone else’s
mana. To be effective in gaining mana both parties need a lot of manashare
and you need to get at least a +150 on a CS attack roll.
517. (Charge) A complicated spell to use. Like Imbed,
there’s whole guides on this one. Suffice it to say it’s expensive, in
both money and mana.
518. (Cone) Just like casting 910 (Lightning Bolt) at
every creature in the room simultaneously.
519. (Telekinetic Disarm) Allows you to take a creature’s
weapon from its hand. Kinda silly, and doesn’t work on people.
520. (Major Sleep) A high-level version of sleep. Good
idea, but given the utility of this spell it’s near worthless, because
by this age you’re mainly using sleep on younger players anyway.
525. (Meteor Swarm) A spell that brings rocks from the
sky down upon the room, killing anything and everything in sight. You can’t
even watch the results of this spell, or you’ll die too. In my opinion
it’s too dangerous to use, and I don't plan to learn it soon. Supposedly
the gods are planning on replacing it.
901. (Minor Shock) A nice little AS attack spell, electrical
discharge damages the opponent. Found also in silver and iron wands. Pretty
weak, but sometimes useful.
902. (Edge) Can be cast on any normal weapon, giving
it +15 AS for 1 swing / caster’s level. Can be cast at other people and
will affect any normal weapon in their right hand.
903. (Water) Fires an AS attack waterbolt. Found in aqua
wands. Much better than Shock, but still weak as spells go. Fire based
creatures sometimes have a weakness to water.
904. (Acid) Similar to Water, but shoots acid instead.
Similar to, but weaker than, the version found in crystal wands. Unlike
the elemental spells (fire, water, cold), creatures cannot be immune to
this one.
905. (Refracts) +20 DS for 20 sec per level per cast,
when selfcast. When cast on others, 10 sec per level per cast. Time stackable.
906. (Firebolt) Fires an AS attack firebolt. Found in
golden wands. Strong, and extra-useful against cold-based, undead, and
troll creatures. Extremely useful in Icemule and Pinefar, where nearly
¾ of the creatures have a weakness to it. My weapon of choice against
the undead as I don't own a blessable weapon.
907. (Cold) Fires an AS attack ball of cold. Similar
to, but weaker than, blue wands. Many fire-based creatures have a weakness
to it.
908. (Fireball) Fires an AS attack fireball. Surprisingly
it does about the same damage as 906, and therefore is almost never used.
909. (Tremors) Causes 3-6 maneuver attack rolls, about
5 seconds apart, where anyone not joined to the caster has a chance of
falling down (which lowers their AS and DS by 50).
910. (Bolt) fires an AS attack lightning bolt. Does a
ton of damage.
911. (Mass Blurs) +10 DS, ½ minute per level per
cast, time stackable. Affects anyone in the caster’s group when it is cast,
whether they remain in the caster’s group or not.
912. (Call Wind) Dispels airwalls, knocks people down,
and dispels clouds. Not so often used since Hand was implemented, which
can dispel clouds without the other effects. Can knock creatures down and
force them into offesive stance wit a very short RT.
913. (Death Cloud) Creates a thundercloud that shocks
any creatures in the room for a couple minutes. Does not target players.
This one is slated for replacement, but no word when that will happen or
what will replace it.
914. (Firestorm) Think rain of napalm. Hits anything
in the room not joined to the caster. Lasts about a minute, and is a cloud
that can be dispelled. Like 913, scheduled for replacement.
915. (Weapon Fire)
916. (Invisibility) Useful when you want to walk around
invisible. Better than hiding, cause you can still cast without breaking
it, and can’t be searched out. There are many actions you can take while
invisible, like tickling, hugging, kissing, poking, tapping, and preparing
for combat. 1 minute per level, non-stackable, refreshable.
917. (Boil Earth) Causes the ground to boil, creature
targeted takes a maneuver roll or sustains leg damage and may fall. If
down, they can be damaged in any part of the body. Because of the maneuver
roll its reliability depends on location. It's not very useful if, like
most Warmages, you usually hunt above your age.
918. (Dupe) Allows you to copy an item from your right
hand into your left hand. Only certain items (namely fresh wands and black
and blue crystals, and ruby amulets... and more, possibly) can be copied.
Occasionally fails, and failures can but don’t always destroy the item.
919. (Sphere, Shield) +50 DS, ½ minute per level
per cast, time stackable.
920. (Familiar) Another one people pay for imbedded.
Selfcast only, and it can’t be stolen. Summons a critter that obeys your
commands, talks and can carry small objects, and can find people. Also
this creature determines where your portal goes if you cast 930.
925. (Enchant) Another one of those spells there’s whole
guides on. If ya wondered where your mentor’s 8x armor came from, (or my
6x) someone most likely made it using this spell.
930. (Gate) Allows you to create a portal between you
and your familiar. People can walk through in both directions, as long
as you are the last one through as it will close as soon as you pass.
Grey on Fighting:
Combat being the most common and rewarding pastime in the lands, and somewhat the specialty of Warmage, it makes sense to explain a few things about combat as a Warmage. First, try, if at all possible, to get ‘spelled up’ (or do it yourself) until your DS is about 30-40 points higher than your prey’s AS (if you’re using CoL signs, count in the effects of those too). This will prevent you from being hit except in unusual circumstances or by maneuver attacks. Second, seeing our usually low TD’s, try not to engage creatures with CS-based attacks (most of which are undead anyway). Third, as a general rule, avoid hunting the undead whenever possible; getting blesses or burning your mana on bolt spells are often more trouble than they’re worth until you are quite old.
Mainly your combat will proceed much like that of a warrior, except for two types of spells which, when used, can cause interesting combat situations:
Grey on Organizations:
There are three main types of organizations in the lands; you are permitted to join one and only one in each category. You may, however, claim membership in one in each category. These are:
Societies: there are two of these, Voln and the "secret" Council. Both provide the player with special powers that can be used in and out of combat. Nothing more will be said of these except that, in my opinion, the Council is easier and more useful than Voln to Warmages.
Guilds: eventually, there will be a guild for each profession. To join one you must reach level 15 in that profession. Unfortunately there is no wizard guild yet, so you cannot join one as a wizard.
Houses: these are like real-world fraternities or sororities, except most do not discriminate based on gender. Each has its own goals, requirements, and location. Several are open to all or almost all; as far as I am aware the only ones you should not or cannot join are Sovyn (for empaths and clerics) and Phoenix (for Voln members... Council members are expressly not allowed). Most of the smaller houses are more like an extended family, where whenever you visit you’re almost sure to run into someone you know. They also provide larger, free lockers, house-member-only nodes, and private tables, as well as other features that vary from house to house. Many also have enchanters who will hire themselves out at a cut rate (though I wouldn’t ask for or expect less than ¾ regular price). I personally am a member of House Brigatta, but it is a matter of personal choice and has little impact on the player in normal playing.
Grey on Imbedding Items:
Imbedding is a somewhat complicated process, but one that can often be profitable. It’s one of those processes that can have disastrous side effects though, best to know how to do it.
Once you have an item you’d like to imbed, you need to cast 405 at it to see if it’s imbeddable. You’ll get one of these three messages. You sense that this is a magical item. There seem to be no spells or charges but the flows of essence are strangely attracted to it. This one means you’ve got a blank imbeddable on your hands, and may proceed. The essence swirls as it flows in a fog of chaotic patterns around the (item). You can't make any sense from the patterns. This one means that the item is not imbeddable. I’ve heard this can be changed, sometimes, with grot potion, but never actually seen it work. The other message will tell you the item already has a specific spell in it with a vague quantity of charges left. If there are no charges, the item can often be cleared to blank by use of a grot t’kel potion.
Once you’ve got a clear imbeddable and know what you’re
going to put in it, cast 420 at it. This establishes the necessary, temporary
link with the item. Then you imbed (spell number) in (item name) using
(rub or wave, depending on if it’s wearable or not) for (number) charges.
Keep in mind that to be successful you need to have the mana to cast that
spell that many times. Don’t try pushing much beyond 40-50 mana, as most
items don’t hold that much anyway and you’ll just overload it and destroy
it. Once you’ve successfully imbedded the item, you’re done.
Grey on Enchanting Items:
Enchanting is a long, difficult, and complicated thing, not to be undertaken lightly. For a Warmage (and perhaps the other types as well, I haven’t asked around), it’s often a spell that gets put off for later. I personally learned enchant at level 41, and that soon only because I was sitting around when I was 40 or so and decided I wanted Familiar Gate ASAP. The spell plan I advocate will get it to you around level 36.
The first thing you’ll need to do in order to enchant is to buy potions. There’s 4 potions (one is only available in the backrooms as far as I know). They’re very expensive; even the cheapest comes out to about 3-4 k per dose. Rohnuru, the cheapest, costs about 20-30 k for 5 doses; this is the most commonly used. Duqnuru gives a +10 bonus in the enchanting process, and costs about double the price. Dirtokh gives a +20 and costs about quadruple the price. The most expensive, Mirtokh potion, costs about 175k for 5 doses, and I am told it gives a +30 bonus. These are Landing prices; prices vary at other locations (mainly higher, though I’ve heard the Northern Caravansary sells them for almost half price).
Second, you’ll need an item to enchant. Anything without special abilities (sancted, bleesed, edged, e-bladed, flaring, weighted, etc.) should be enchantable, though we usually stick to storebought weapons, shields, and armor (all of which are except stuff from the Cleric shop and claidhmores, I believe).
Once you have the item, you must temper it (make it ready to accept the enchant). You do this by pouring the potion on the item, such as in pour potion on shield. Be careful to specify which so it doesn’t target your combat gear, as tempered items aren’t combat-usable. This is best done at a node or a table, or a workshop if you can get one. Keep a log of what you temper and when, and what it tells you (hopefully, on paper or in a diary-style text file. I use index cards I keep on my computer desk.). Tempering time is measured in realtime, not online time, though don’t push it, the results can be disastrous. (The time I pushed this too far, I destroyed the item and killed myself in the process.) I usually let a set of items temper for 2 hours beyond the highest temper time before I do my enchanting session. I call this my safety cushion time.
After the temper time and safety cushion time are up, you’re ready for your enchanting session. This is when you get together any friends or clients willing to help and start infusing mana. The verb for this is infuse (amount of mana). You can use the sense verb to see how much mana is in the pool, but only if you have 140 manashare training. It is often possible to cast low level enchants without doing any infusing, as the realm pools do generate mana on their own.
Once you have a sufficient amount of mana in the pool, you can proceed to cast the actual enchantment spell. To do this, hold the item and cast 925 at it. You’ll want to do the highest enchant item you’re doing in each session first... here’s why. Enchanting requires huge amounts of mana in the pool (though no harm in trying to cast with not enough in the pool, it just misfires your cast and no harm is done to the item, not even losing the temper). However, when you cast, the pool is only lowered to the level of the next lower enchantment. Thus, right after casting a 4x (for example), you can cast a 3x without further infusing, then a 2x and then a 1x. So, simply do your high cast, then step your way down.
As far as mana in the pool, I’m not aware of the exact figures, but here’s some rough estimates. A 1x requires about 500 mana, a 2x, 1500, and a 3x 4000 and a 4x about 10000. Keep in mind this is mana IN THE POOL. The pool doesn't have great manashare... it's about 50%. If you can find someone with a very high manashare to 'channel', results would probably be better.
As far as hiring yourself out, the prices for this service are pretty fluid, but generally within a predictable range. However, keep in mind that 5x stuff usually goes for between a half million and a million coins, and that single-step enchants on the customer’s already enchanted items are usually done for half the cost of the higher enchant. Also, even where close friends come in, NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER do any enchanting for free (unless, of course, it’s for yourself). Charge them, at minimum, double the cost of the potions you used. Also, always make clear that enchanting has a chance to destroy the item and you will not be held responsible for its replacement should it be destroyed (though don’t take on contracts for higher than you’ve done). Also, unless you’re extremely confident, I would not enchant altered items as they are irreplaceable.
I prefer to enchant “raw” items and work them up to 2x or 3x, and then just sell them. Usually these can be sold for 50-60k and 120-150k. Armor is good for this, especially full leather and double leather, as they are in constant high demand. This has the added advantages of letting you work at your own pace; no customers waiting to get their items back; nor anyone complaining about you destroying their stuff or stealing it. All around, it’s less stressful.
As far as selling items, the prices vary based on type of item and level of enchant and demand. 4x armors often sell for 250-300 k or close to it, but 4x weapons often sell for around 100 k or a touch less. This also happens with shields, because weapons and shields are commercially available up to 4x, while armor generally isn’t. After 4x, the prices even out. My enchanting prices are generally somewhere near 25k/60k/150k/300k. (I only do up to 4x due to my age, and even that rarely.)
And, only do enchanting stuff when you’re in the right
mood for it. It’s time consuming, but can be quite profitable. Also, infusing
time can, and often does, turn into a social event or a reunion. Don’t
stop it from happening at your enchanting sessions! In fact, they’re often
called enchanting parties. It’s a great opportunity to sit and have a nice
talk with your friends. I even saw a hybrid enchanting party and auction
once, where one of the main infusers was auctioning items and asking folks
who came to infuse while they bid, and the high-enchant item from the session
was auctioned off at the end.
Grey on Roleplaying:
Having just broached the subject in my section on enchanting, let me give some further mention to roleplaying. From the beginning you should have a general idea of what type of person your character is. In the lands, they are considered a real person of a vaguely medieval European time and place; they should act like one. You can take a few simple steps in order to do so.
First, I would suggest patterning their general behavior on yourself. It makes your character much easier to relate to and to portray consistently. A theme can also be used beneficially. I would also suggest “dressing the part” as much as budget allows. It’s annoying to see a serious person walking around in a ridiculous outfit that doesn’t match their personality – or itself (on that count, try stickling to at most three colors that really do look good together). I, for example, wear all grey and silver items, or at least as much so as I can within my limited economic resources. (If I can’t get either, I get something colorless.)
Second, remember that your character is not living in modern times, and doesn’t play video and computer games like you do. He or she wouldn’t know what Gemstone, Final Fantasy, Civilization, or Everquest (or a level, for that matter) is and shouldn’t be discussing such things, certainly not in the open. They are from a swords-and-armor level of technology, and would speak of things like hunting, swordfighting, duelling, and such. The other characters should be regarded as real people, albeit people from that time frame as well. If someone is disrupting this motif intentionally, they are in violation of Simutronics policy (to the best of my knowledge) and should be discouraged.
Third, arguments and discussions
are perfectly acceptable. After all, the government of the lands is damned
close to anarchy, if you don’t count the guards and constables. However,
it’s very discouraged (by both constables and game staff) to engage in
player-on-player violence. I personally believe sleeping or stunning someone
is acceptable if they’re not in dangerous surroundings, but damage should
not be inflicted. If someone starts to take a discussion far too seriously,
back off. And if they push a situation against you too far, feel free to
REPORT and ASSIST.