| May Culture Notes..... For the Wairarapa region (New Zealand) |
| In General..... |
| CULTURE CORNER |
| By now all your plants should have had a nice clean up, spray & be tucked away in their wintering areas. To keep the bast ventilation around them, they are best kept up off the floor, thus allowing air to circulate freely. Slugs & snails are still plentiful now, so make sure to keep plenty of fresh baits out around the plants, watch they (the pellets) don’t get into the crown of the plant where they can set up rots as the baits get damp & breakdown. It is also advisable to keep an eye out for any signs of mice! As you see spikes appearing it’s a good idea to put a marker or stake by them, as this way you are less likely to break them off accidentally (the one that does get broken will invariably be your pride & joy). If you are using wire or stakes, remember to turn the end over or protect them with something so you will not poke your own, or someone else’s eye out when moving or examining the plants. CYMBIDIUMS Fungus & White Scale thrive in poorly ventilated conditions, you need to ensure that your plants are getting plenty of good ventilation to help prevent these pests from occurring, so open up the doors each day no matter what the temperature, as long as it’s not freezing. Avoid overhead watering of plants that are sporting flower spikes, as poor drying conditions will allow Botrytis to set into the sheath & around the base of the spike. A weak potash type feed at each second or third watering during winter is as good as any to strengthen up flowers. Watering should be so that the media remain only damp but not wet. Remember Cymbidiums are pretty tough, all they need is shelter from rain, strong wind & frost in this colder weather. DO NOT TAKE PLANTS IN SPIKE INTO YOUR WARM LIVING AREAS!!! PHALAENOPSIS don’t allow the temperature to drop below 10oC or you will suffer bud drop. Make sure that water is not left in the crown of the leaves, as this could rot the plant over night . CATTLEYAS, As some of these grow cooler than others, adjust their positions in the house to suit. Don’t get water over the tops of the new growths as the cold nights & moisture will rot these quickly. These plants need good light over the winter period but feeding can be reduced for the cooler months, watch that you do not over water. PAPHIOPEDILUMS, should be kept damp but not wet, as some of these plants will be starting to send up flower spikes now. These will not need feeding again until the weather warms up in spring, as they will not take up any nutrients at this time, & in fact will shed their roots if over feed!!! They still like a little humidity, so watch that heaters don’t dry out the air too much. The green leaved paphs don’t like getting much below 8oC , while the mottled leaved plants, which only require light shading, like a minimum temperature of about 12 – 18oC. VANDAS The requirements for these is much the same as for the Cattleyas, good light over the winter period. Only give these a weak feed & watch the watering is not excessive at present. NOBILE type Dendrobiums should not have any more feed OR watering now, they only need to be misted over the canes & roots, just to stop the canes from withering. Keep them in plenty of high light. Do not water or feed (other than misting) until the stem nodes take on the definite form of flower buds, or they will become “Keikis”. Keep them far enough away from outside walls so there is no risk of frost burn. DENDROBIUMS still need plenty of light as well as plenty of air movement to prevent rots setting in. Reduce water & feed but do not allow them to dry out. MASDEVALLIAS won’t mind being a bit cooler & like to be shaded from direct sun, they also appreciate a humid atmosphere that has ample air movement. Feed with a very weak potash mix after every four or five waterings & be sure to keep their compost damp, not sodden. |