22. Can the BUBF electrical system support more accessories ?? return to Master Table of Contents
22.1. Adding an after market horn is normally not a problem since it is not in use much and does not normally draw much amperage. The choices are many and varied. An auto horn from such vendors as Pep Boys, that will bolt on exactly like the OEM, to various motorcycle air horn systems.
22.2. If you plan to add additional lights to your bike, keep in mind the alternator is rated at 25 amperes @ 6000 rpm, 14 volts for 350 maximum watts. This is like 110 MPH+ in 4th gear, so actual maximum amperage is lower.
TECH TIP: In determining how far my Westach ammeter is out of calibration, I ran some tests with my multimeter (10 amp ammeter setting) connected between the positive battery cable and the positive post on the battery itself. The testing was done on my 1995 1500A9.
BOTTOM LINE: When you are idling (for a stop light or moving slowly in heavy traffic), the bike is constantly drawing 6-7 amps from the battery. If you add a light bar with a couple of 50-watt bulbs, you're drawing approximately 15 amps from the battery. If the engine overheats and the fan goes on, you are drawing as much as 18 amps. Enough stop and go riding, and the battery can be drained pretty low.
The bike's charging system can begin to recharge the battery at around 1000 to 1200 rpm. The charging system recharges the battery at 2-3 amps/13.8 VDC. So it takes some riding time above 1200 rpm (we usually ride in a power band of 2200 to 2700 rpm) to fully recharge the battery. OR you can use a trickle charger/battery tender to top off the battery at night.
Here are the tests I ran on my 1995 1500A9 to develop amp numbers.
Measuring battery DISCHARGING: with the engine running (multimeter positive probe connected to battery positive post, and the negative multimeter probe to battery cable):
A. At idle (~900 rpm) the bike was drawing 6 - 7 amps from the battery.
B. Break Even (zero current draw from/to the battery) was 1100 rpm.
With the engine NOT running, but ignition key ON (no alternator charging):
1. The lighting and gauge systems drew 4 amps from the battery. The 55-watt/4.5-amp headlight was off (Reserve Lighting Device effectively turning off the headlight). Adding in the headlight Halogen bulb current requirement, the total draw would be approximately 8.5 amps.
2. The fan drew approximately 3 amps.
With the multimeter probes reversed (multimeter positive probe connected to battery cable, and the negative probe connected to the battery positive post), I could measure the charge going to the battery.
When I rolled the throttle, I could see (a negative) current drawn from the battery. After a few moments, the reg/rec. would spike up and send as much as 3 amps to the battery and then slowly reduce the current to 0.2 amps. Theoretically, the current should go to zero, but I may just be seeing a multimeter needle error.
WARNING: If you do these charge and draw tests on your bike's reg./rec., DO NOT connect the multimeter until AFTER you start the engine, or the 30-40 amp starter motor draw from the battery will probably trash your multimeter. I disconnected the positive cable from the battery and held it to the positive battery post and hit the starter (wear gloves or hold the cable by the red insulator). I then connected the multimeter with alligator clip probes to the cable and the positive post and then removed the cable from the battery post.
TIP: If you can, use a good quality digital multimeter that will display positive and negative amps. I used a Radio Shack analog multimeter. An analog meter cannot display a negative current draw without reversing the probes. An analog multimeter will "indicate", but not measure, a negative amp reading as the needle drifts to the left OFF the meter scale. Ride safe, Manjo v1111 warb 100 1500A9
22.2.1. The author’s opinion is that normal riding (3500 rpm?? or 55 MPH in 4th gear) will produce less wattage and you might want to use 300 watts as a more practical maximum wattage. Although Kawasaki has not been able to tell the author what the engine wattage requirement is, it is estimated at 120 watts @ 3500 rpm.
22.2.2. Normal low beam headlights, running lights, tail lights, and indicator bulbs consume another 120 watts, approximately. This leaves the rider with 80 available watts that can be used for momentarily activating the high beam, break lights, and turn signals.
22.2.3. Many VROC’ers have added light bars and additional rear lights with no problems while some have experienced a run down battery when stuck in traffic at low speed. Given these estimated numbers, it is evident why some riders will have a depleted battery running all these appliances while running their scoot at less than highway speeds (i.e., rpms). At the very least, it would be a good practice to turn off your light bar in slow traffic situations.
TECH TIP: I’ve done a little testing with the ”A” and find with the light bars it takes a fast idle to keep the volts up so the battery is not drained. No problems with highway, but you’d get in trouble with a lot of city riding. The light bars or off now as the new windshield does not allow for them. I do want to put back on a bar of some kind with 2 55-w lights and know this would drain the battery unless at high speed. Heck, going out to the V2K in Colorado this year, I drained the battery on the Drifter. Had a light bar with 2 55-Watt lights and the lights on the trailer drained the battery at 80 MPH. Lorin “Fly” Potter VROC # 1382 94 BUBF Cedar Rapids, IA
TECH TIP: Adding additional lights and relay. Useful link courtesy of wiredgeorge v2420 bubf nad FI Mico TX http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/foglites.html
PRODUCT INFORMATION: NATIONAL and F&S make light bars specifically for the 1500A/B/C. Here are some opinions and gotchas to be aware of when you decide to add a light bar 11/2003.
I'm only aware of two manufacturers of lightbars specific to the BUBF, Cobra
(who makes them for Kawasaki F&S), and National Cycle. U-Turn ~v1125If you have a windshield and it is not an F&S windshield there is only one light bar that will fit and it has to be modified. KuryAkyn makes a light bar for the Softtail with bullet lights that when turned upside down will work. In short, if you have a windshield you will need to come up with your own individual solution to the problem.
-- John T Plano, v4257, Texas "98 1500A12 Ears Shaved, Rejetted
VROC #4257National Cycle sells a windshield and a lightbar that will work together on the BUBFs. The lightbar is only attached with a couple of wimpy bolts that have a tendency to vibrate loose, rattle and eventually break off so you'll prolly want to add a couple of rubber washers or something in there to keep it from vibrating so much. Karen Benson "Cat" Fillmore, CA Beautiful '99 Nomad
That's for sure. I ended up drillin' right through the lower steering stem and using nuts/bolts/washers to secure it on there. The rubber washers are also a good idea, as the tabs have also been known to break from the bar. U-Turn ~v1125
There are a couple. Cobra and F&S. You have to make sure you can have your
light bar, and your windshield at the same time. Problem there due to the
speedometer.. CYborg #3007 Borgessa "The 92/99 A-Classic-Nomad"
22.2.4. George in Santa Fe, VROC #159 has placed several good articles about after market regulators and replacement alternators in the VROC archives.
22.2.4 There's a write up on replacing a worn out BUBF stator in the VROC FAQ, Bike Specific section. The stator and rotating magnetic rotor produce the current used by your bike. Replacing the stock stator and regulator/rectifier may significantly increase the current available to your bike.
22.3. TECH TIP: A rectifier changes AC (alternating current) from the alternator to DC (direct current). The electrical system on the Vulcan, as on most motorcycles and cars, is DC or at least the battery charging circuit is. The alternator, which is essentially a generator, produces AC electricity; the rectifier changes it to DC. The alternator (AC generator) is called such to distinguish it from the older car generators (DC generators). The reason for the change to alternators (AC generators) from generators (DC generators) is that larger quantities of electricity can be generated with the same revolutions of the armature or rotor. I don't know of any motorcycles or cars that use generators anymore. Probably more than you want to know. Hope it is of some help. JD Vanover VROC 1958
TECH TIP: To confirm the normal/expected battery recharging range of 1 amp to 2 amps at or above 2,000 rpm, and to find out how much more current higher wattage light bars and such as taking out of the battery, try the following (with and without the extra electrical load) using a standard multimeter with a “10 amp” capacity:
Remove the positive battery cable bolt, start the engine holding the cable end to the positive post (wear gloves, or carefully hold the red rubber insulator), then pull the cable away from the post and connect the meter ( "10 amp" meter setting, meter positive line clipped to battery red cable, and the meter black/negative clipped to the battery's positive post). Don't worry if you get the red and black multimeter wires backwards. All you'll see is the needle or LED display with a negative amp reading when you roll the throttle. When you disconnect the positive battery cable after starting the engine, the bike's entire electrical system including ignition will continue to function off the current created by the alternator and reg/rec.
Don't connect the meter between the cable and battery and THEN Start the engine. When you start the engine, the starter relay makes a direct path to the starter from the battery, allowing 40+?? amps to go to the starter motor. This will toast your multimeter. Maybe even make a momentary pretty bright light ??!! Manjo ~V~
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25. BUBF Electrical Information: return to Master Table of Contents
I had several electrical problems recently that took me through a lot of the 1995A BUBF electrical stuff. I thought I’d pass along a few tips on tools and my experiences to those people interested in tackling their own electrical problems. Also, at this writing, Motorcycle Consumer News, in the January, 2000 issue, has started a three (3) part series on motorcycle electrical systems the author recommends you read for greater general details.
25.1. USEFUL TOOLS: If you’re going to trouble shoot electrical problems make sure you have a Kawasaki or Clymers service manual, and get the following tools in order of importance. A DC volt-ohm meter; A 12 volt test light. It looks like a screw driver with a pointed end with a wire to a grounding clip. After attaching the clip to a good ground on the bike frame (the battery ground wire to the frame is a good one) use the metal tip or probe to quickly test for current. A couple sets of small alligator clips for reaching small pins are helpful. A 12 volt power source for testing components off the bike can be very useful. As mentioned above, you should also have the BUBF Service Manual that contains wiring diagrams and test procedures. The 12 volt power supply. costs about $20.00 at Radio Shack and will help to test lights, junction box ( or JB where your fuses and relays are located), and other components requiring one or more 12 volt power sources. You can try multiple jumper wires sets off your battery or even your accessory leads, but this can get complicated trying to connect several sets of alligator clips to simulate two or three 12 volt batteries, in order to properly test your regulator/rectifier.
25.2. OVERVIEW and great simplification of your BUBF electrical system.
25.2.1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON, current is available to your front and rear turning signal lights, and your front and rear (tail) running lights. In the 1995A and later BUBF models, there’s a Reserve Lighting Unit (RLU) that does not allow current to flow to the headlight until the starter button is released. This is to preserve as much current as possible for the starter motor.
25.2.2. When you press the starter button, the completed circuit flows current from the battery to the to the JB which activates the JB starter relay which in turn activates the second, and larger, starter relay located at the top rear of your battery. The second starter relay completes a direct circuit between the battery and starter motor and the engine crankshaft is turned, current activates the fuel pump, and fuel flows into each cylinder from the carbs, and the coils fire the spark plugs. Within a few cranks of the engine by the starter motor, the engine pistons are firing with enough power to turn the crankshaft and the alternator, allowing the engine to run off it’s own electrical power. This is when the engine "catches," and you release the starter switch.
25.2.3. When you release the starter button, the bike has either started or has not. . The starter relay is deactivated cutting battery current to the starter motor. If the bike has NOT started, the headlight remains ON, and is powered by the battery until the bike is started or you turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. If the bike is started, then one of the three yellow wires from the alternator takes over activation of the headlight relay powering the RLU, and your headlight remains on. The RLU (located behind the battery just below the rectifier/regulator on the same metal rack) flows current to the headlight dimmer switch through two wires allowing you to select high or low beam. The RLU also senses a burnt out high or low beam filament and sets indicator lights on the console when there’s a problem with the headlight.
25.2.4. With the bike started, the engine and other electrical circuits take their current from the battery which is fed by the alternator and rectifier/regulator combination. If you were to have a weak battery, you would not be able to start your bike, but could be push started to get the engine turning over. This would allow the alternator to flow current to the rectifier/regulator through the battery to the rest of the BUBF’s electrical system. If the battery is badly shorted or you had a loose battery cable, you would most likely not be able to push start the bike.
25.3. There are trouble shooting chapters in your service manual (either KAW or Clymers) that direct you to specific components when you can’t start; you start but run poorly; lights are not functioning, you name the condition, there’s a trouble shooting procedure to follow to get to the problem. So below are ONLY GENERAL tips and techniques that will serve you when you are following a published trouble shooting procedure.
SIMPLE AND FAST ELECTRICAL TESTS
25.31 Here's a great VROC tech archive (Title: Electrical Woes) on quick electrical system test you can do on your BUBF with a multimeter: http://www.vroc.org/archive/1998/msg20442.html
Here's a link to an MCN article on all you want to know about motorcycle batteries MCN Battery Article.
TECH TIP: Here are three (3) simple tests I would do to identify any major battery or charging system problems so I could concentrate on the carbs:
1. Using a simple volt/ohm meter, turn on the ignition (but don't start the engine) and put on the turn signals for a few seconds to drain off the battery a bit. Set the meter for DC volts on the 25 or 50 volt range and place the positive probe on the positive terminal and the negative probe on the negative terminal. You should see 12.2 minimum to 12.6 VDC indicating you have a half to fully charged battery.
DC VOLT READING
12.0
12.2
12.4
12.6
CHARGE
25%
50%
75%
100%
2. Turn on the engine and with the probes on the same battery terminals, you should get a reading between 13.5 volts 15.0 volts, at about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle position (2500-3000 RPM). At this voltage, you're getting proper voltage to charge the battery and run the bike.
3. Test each coil and spark plug set. Turn the engine OFF, and set the meter to ohms in the 50k ohm range. Take the pair of spark plug cables off a cylinder and place a meter probe in EACH spark plug cap making sure you have good contact with the metal clip in the cap that connects to the plug. The ohm reading should be in the 32k to 34k ohm range. In this range, proper current can flow to the spark plugs and through the coil for a good burn. Test the other cylinder in the same manner. If the reading are more than 15% higher or lower, test the spark plug cap (~5k ohms). Test the spark plug wires and coil together (secondary winding 18-26k ohms). The service manual has the primary windings test at the coil spade connectors (1.7 - 2.5 ohms. Manjo ~V~1111
25.3.1. TIP 1: ALWAYS check the simple stuff first like your battery connections and cables. Your battery is part of your ignition circuit and if it’s shorting and/or cannot hold a charge, it can stop you from even pushing or jump starting your bike. A weak or under charged battery can "look" likes it’s doing it’s job, but a volt meter will tell you if it has the needed volts while a battery tester will tell you if the battery holds a charge and can discharge sufficient current to start your bike.
Here's a link for thoroughly testing your battery with only a voltmeter for shorted or open battery cells http://autorepair.about.com/cs/electrical/a/aa121000b_2.htm This assumes the battery is fully charged and you have a low-maintenance battery with access to each cell (not a sealed battery).
Check ALL your fuses to make sure they are all intact. If a fuse is blown, try to locate the cause as soon as possible. Blown fuses are usually caused by power surges from a faulty component (alternator or rectifier/regulator, etc.) or most commonly by a short in a wire that allows current to flow freely to ground (usually your frame) through the fuse until the fuse melts and breaks the circuit. Neither of these causes will heal themselves or just go away. If anything, they will get worse. So at the first opportunity, get the bike to a qualified mechanic or break out the multi-meter and test light and track down the problem before the problem tracks you down. Electrical problems like to rear their ugly heads when you’re out riding having a good time or on the way to somewhere important. You usually end up very late or you have to have your scoot towed home.
25.3.2. WAR STORY: I had a bike that wouldn’t start 900 miles from home. The lights came on, but the starter relay just clicked away when I hit the starter button. A Harley rider and several other people gave me push starts at different points across the Midwest and I was able to get home. At home, I trickle charged the battery overnight and the hydrometer showed full charge in each cell. When I put it back in the scoot and hit the starter, all I got was the relay clicking, again. I finally went to the auto store and bought a battery tester and under load, the tester showed a short in the battery. Replaced the battery and I was able to move on to the next electrical problem (blown diode in the Junction Box).
25.3.3. TIP 2: Use your grounded 12 volt test light to test 2-, 4-, 6-, 8-, and 10-pin connectors by probing an individual wire from the rear of the connector. This will make tests go faster and easier since you don't need to pierce a wire to test for a current flow and therefore avoid having to repair the pierced wire with tape and silicone afterwards. You will also be testing the connector portion of the circuit thereby eliminating two possible problems at the same time.
25.3.4. TIP 3: Use your ohm meter or continuity tester to test for breaks or shorts in a wire. Connect the meter clips to each end of the wire and look for a zero or low ohm reading, or listen for the tone indicating a good wire with no breaks. Shake or otherwise move the wire as much as possible to make broken wires separate which will cause your tester to stop buzzing or to read very high or infinite ohms. The wire plastic insulation may be just worn enough to allow the exposed wire to touch the frame or other metal part of the bike causing a short and perhaps blow a fuse. Attach one probe of your ohm meter to a ground and the other probe to the end of the wire that has been disconnected from any light or device. When you wiggle the wire, the meter should show infinite ohms or no buzzing for a good wire. If you get a low or zero ohm reading or a buzz indicating continuity, then a bare spot on the wire is touching the frame or a metal component. You then need to check the wire for cracks or worn spots.
25.3.5. Corroded light sockets and dirty connectors can also give you intermittent electrical problems that can drive you batty. Your best bet is to take them apart and clean them up completely. On a newer bike, you should find dielectric grease (Available at most auto parts stores) in the socket and on the bulb base. This is to insure a good contact at all times between the bulb and the socket, and to reduce the chance of the two corroding together. You should apply a good coating to both the bulb and socket after you clean up and repair.
25.3.6. TIP 4: Make sure all your bullet and pin connectors, and starter cable nut, are clean, tight, and/or pushed in all the way. The pin connectors will usually have a locking mechanism of some sort that make getting the connector apart to check and clean it very difficult. But with both ends are pushed together until they lock, you can rest assured the connector won’t accidentally come apart during normal riding. On the other hand, a bullet connector can "look" tight and connected through their protective plastic cover, but the male-female end may be just touching sometimes and not other times, creating a fluctuating go/no go current path. Using a small pair of pliers, you can gently squeeze the empty female connector a tad to tighten it up and insure a good tight connection.
25.3.7. WAR STORY: My headlight was not functioning nor were my console headlight indicators. I thought the problem was in the RLU and then suspected the JB (Junction Box). After probing the wires with the 12 volt test light at the RLU and the JB, it was clear there was no current flowing from the JB headlight relay to the RLU. I checked the BUBF wiring diagram and it showed that current to the headlight relay came from one of the three yellow alternator output wires after the motor was running. When I checked the wires, I found that one of the three yellow wire bullet connectors had come loose, but the male bullet end was still in the plastic cover. I believe I had loosened the wire while removing the reed valves. Several hundred of miles of vibrations finally disconnected the two ends of the bullet connector leaving me with no headlights until I tightened the connection and reconnected the wires. The bike also ran much better since it was once again getting a full current to the entire electrical system as well as the ignition coils.
25.3.8. TIP 5: Don’t be afraid to test and repair the JB yourself. The JB is made up of a printed circuit board, fuse holders, two identical relays, and several diodes. That’s it. There are no computer or custom chips inside, just a couple of relays and passive components and a bunch of replaceable fuses. The service manual lists tests for the JB that will check each one of these components, pass/fail. The JB also opens up very easily. Once open, you can test each component directly (again) and replace each as necessary. This beats having to pay $85-$100 for a new JB when all you may need is a $5.00 relay or a 25 cent diode.
25.3.9. TIP 6: Be aware that the wiring diagrams in the service manual are only WIRING diagrams. The diagrams contain schematic symbols such as ground and diode, but they are only indicators at best. I had to diagram the JB printed circuit board before I started to understand what was going on with the headlight circuit. So if you don’t mind getting you hands dirty or doing several tests and writing down the results, you can figure out what’s going on in your scoot and identify most problems using the wiring diagrams and circuit "descriptions" in the service manual.
BULB Application GENERIC Bulb Numbers*
HEADLIGHT H4 TURN SIGNAL - REAR (SINGLE FILAMENT 1156 TURN SIGNAL - FRONT, TAIL LIGHT (DUAL FILAMENT) 1157 NACELLE 194 (LARGE) Speedometer, 74 & 24 (SMALL) Speedometer and gas gauge CONSOLE INDICATORS 74 & 24 Drag Specialties Mini-Tach 74 TECH TIP: A disclaimer...I do not have a great deal of personal experience with the KAW electrical system but I do have some general knowledge and an electrical wiring diagram. First, DO NOT use the higher amp fuse again! It could cost your friend some serious wiring harness damage. If anything you should use 5 amp fuses to troubleshoot with. Most fuses are overrated by about 200% so when you find and eliminate the problem the 5 amps should hold for a short time and will allow less damage during troubleshooting. After looking at the wiring diagram I'm guessing the fuse will blow shortly after turning on the ignition and kill switches, whether you start the engine or not. That it takes 5 seconds to blow the fuse does not rule out a "dead" short. That is to say a wire shorted directly to ground. It is likely that a dead short at the end of a length of small gauge wire would cause a time delay in the fuse failure. The reason the wires heat up is that they are providing some resistance and limiting the current flow slightly, this consumes power, which is dissipated as heat. Probably more than you needed to know but...make sure you examine the harness carefully at all points between the handlebar, the coils, and the fuel pump. The fact that the red wire gets hot means the trouble is beyond the kill switch. You should find that with the kill switch off the wires don't get hot. The red wire is "downstream" from the switch and leads to the coils and fuel pump. You should unplug/disconnect those and try the power again. The bike will obviously not start at this point but, as I said, the problem is most likely apparent if you start the engine or not. If the problem is gone then reconnect the components one at a time until it comes back. The last thing you hooked up will be the culprit. Do a careful visual exam of the suspect part for signs of water ingress or corrosion around the connectors. I have seen a cracked coil cause a problem similar to this when wet (in a boat) and you could barely find the crack. It is also unlikely that the trouble is in the junction box for the same reason (red wire gets hot) The damage you saw there is almost certainly an effect, not a cause. If all else fails one outside possibility is water caused short in the switch assembly on the handlebar. Try removing the clamp from the bar and letting it dangle free of the bar...does the problem go away? Look around inside the assembly and see if everything looks clean and dry. There may be some grease present that is a good thing. This is unlikely because the red wire should not be affected if the short is in the switch body, but you never know. Anyway, good luck. Hopefully someone with direct Vulcan experience can provide more specific help. -- Ron Russell VROC #5968 AMA #604927 South Cow Hampshire Y2K 1500 Classic TECH TIP: About 3 months ago, I began having problems with my turn signals. The left/rear turn signal worked sometimes and sometimes not. If you jiggled the bulb or wires going into the turn signal, it would work for a while and then quit. I use Baron marker lamps and the problem was with the rear turn signal. I completely rewired the turns signals as well as the taillight (put on a new taillight in this period). The problem persisted... A couple weeks ago, I bought a new marker lamp thinking the bulb holder might not be making good contact because jiggling the bulb would get the turn signal to start working... This morning, I replaced the old marker lamp with a new unit... problem still persisted. Since I had new wiring and a new turn signal, the only remaining culprit was the flasher which had not occurred to me until this point. I called my friends at Alamo Cycle Plex here in sunny San Antonio, for a price on a Relay Assembly; Turn Signal P/N 27002-1053. They wanted $32+ and the unit was not in stock. I pulled the stock assembly out of my bike. It is located on the rear of the battery case and can be easily removed by pulling it off its mounting pole (it has a piece of rubber attaching it) and removing the electrical leads. I noted it had two poles and went into AutoZone and bought a 536/552-C generic automotive flasher relay made by Thermal for $1.99 plus tax. Plugged it in and problem solved... arghhh electrical problems suck! wiredgeorge v2420 bubf nadFI Mico Tx reply: lesho@bigfoot.com TECH TIP: IF YOU ARE HAVING TURN SIGNAL PROBLEMS: go to any auto parts store and buy a flasher relay... get the one with only two prongs set up in an L type config. This flasher will plug direct into your wiring. Old one is on your battery box and you may have to wire tie the new one on as the holder for the old one was made for a square relay and the one you will find will be round. These flasher relays get tired with age and the flashing from turn signals will get erratic... sometimes fast, sometimes slow... sometimes one will work and the other wont... etc if you have strange stuff happening, don't trust this relay... they only cost about $3*All indicator, gauge, and headlight bulbs are readily available at auto parts stores like NAPA and AutoZone
BULB TECH TIPS: Bulbs in the speedometer and the nacelle’s gas gauge will eventually burn out. They are easily replaced. Disconnect the speedo cable at the wheel and then remove the screw at the rear of the speedo. The speedo unit can now be pulled gently from the speedo housing just enough by feeding the speedo cable up through the indicator panel a few inches. You can then access either rubber bulb base. With your fingers or a pair of needle nose pliers, gently pull out each light’s rubber boot and replace the pull out bulb. The speedo takes a Sylvania size 194 or (194LL) and a smaller size 74 and 24. The bulbs pull out/push in to the rubber boot. Press the boot with the new bulb back into the light housing hole and you’re back in business.
25.5. The gas gauge involves removing the tank nacelle to access the base of the gas gauge and the gauge’s single Sylvania 74. Nacelle removal is intuitive, but a service manual has the entire procedure laid out for you. If you don’t have a manual, then carefully located and remove the two screws holding a plastic plate at the front bottom of the nacelle. You can then remove the two screws that hold the nacelle to the gas tank. Now you can carefully slide the nacelle forward until it clears a tab on the inside at the rear of the nacelle. Put a fairly thick cloth under and around the nacelle and tip it forward being careful not to stretch the gas gauge electrical wires. You will see a small gray rubber boot that holds the gas gauge bulb. Pull the boot out (with your fingers or needle nose pliers. Turn the ignition to "on" for a moment to verify the bulb is burnt out and then pull the bulb out of the boot and replace it with a Sylvania 74. Now just reverse the procedure to re-install the nacelle.
25.6. Battery removal is facilitated by removing BOTH side covers. You then have clear access to the battery’s NEGative terminal screw from the side so you can grab it when you are removing the cable. It also makes reinstalling the screw easier, but you still have to work from above to completely tighten the screws with a socket or Phillips head screw driver.
25.7. Become familiar with your service manual wiring diagram. Locate major components in the following order. Battery, junction (fuse) box, main fuse (30 amps); regulator/rectifier; three(3) YELLOW wires from the alternator that lead to the regulator/rectifier; wiring connector locations. If any one of these three YELLOW wires is loose, it could cause reduced current to your scoot and very likely reduced performance.
TECH TIP: I know the 15w/50w tail lights pull a lot more, but they are sure a lot brighter too. So far they have caused me no problems. Just the 15w running light is a lot brighter than the stock. I am also going to order a set of the life bright, the always on not the brake version. Then I am thinking about putting another pair of running lights on a bracket on the license plate. That should light up the back pretty good. Don't want some cager running into me. My Pilot running lights I have on the engine guard pull 55 watts, so I really need to get my 50 amp rectifier mounted and hooked up. Plan on getting it mounted this Sunday. When my buddy gets back to town, I will have him come over some evening and we will get it hooked up. He is better at that than I am. KILO -V-935 96 1500L YELLOW "Pegasus"
25.9. War story: Battery has been on the battery maintainer and is freshly charged. Starter turns over fine. Engine has a very hard time getting started, then runs only on one cylinder. Taking out the plug from the cylinder that wasn't firing: Spark plug is wet. The headlight and taillight work fine. I install a new spark plug. Engine fires up okay and runs reasonably well (always bitchy until it warms up). I pull out to ride around the block, to see what the matter is. 150 ft later, one cylinder cuts out again. I end up limping back into the garage. So...? Bad spark plug cable? Something clogged in one of the carbs? (This is one of my other V-twins with twin carbs, not the Vulcan). Primary lead on the ignition coil loose (that got me stranded on the 98 Cherohala Ride)? Nope. Battery is on its last hurrah, evidenced by weaker and weaker starter action until it quits. I don't know how old this battery is, the bike came with it when I bought it two years ago. Off to the AutoZone, they have a Champion ($29.99). I fill it, charge it overnight, install it, hook all the wires up and put the side covers back on. First try: VRRRROOMMMMMM!!! The problem is gone. Engine starts up willingly and both pots are firing. The moral of the story: Headlight function alone is not an indicator that the battery is "good". It can still be too weak to power the ignition properly, and then the bike starts dying a little ways down the road because the battery isn't being charged. P.S. Just because I'm such a suspicious Kraut, I brought out the old voltmeter: Champion Battery voltage, just charged for the very first time, nothing turned on: 13.01 V. Turn on the ignition, start engine: Voltage goes to 14.06 V. So, the charging system is working fine and all is well. RocDoc Rudi Kiefer, Gainesville, GA VROC #121
TECH TIP: My logic is that I will always spring for a $31.00 new battery every two years for my $6999.00 bike than fart around with something that could leave me hoofing it. The first time my battery acts up, it is out of there, no 2nd chances, no messing around. I have a digital volt meter that I use to check up on my battery. When my battery voltage after a charge settles down below 12.25 volts, that battery is history as well. I had to push my 750 one time out in the middle of nowhere for five miles in 100 degree heat, no wind and no shade cause I tried to save a battery. NEVER AGAIN.... "Buy a new battery every two years...." That’s my two cents.... Chuck in Minot ND VROC 2851 AKA The Griz
TECH TIP: What I did was install a cheap DC LCD volt meter just wired to the battery. You can watch as your machine runs, and see the voltage, and also see what the battery drops down to when the bike is at rest. As soon as that puppy drops below 12.25 it is traded in. Chuck in Minot ND VROC 2851 AKA The Griz
TECH TIP: Ok, topped off the battery during my little maintenance free-for-all and apparently I loosened the little "extra" connector that hangs off negative terminal. Odd things result from fubar grounds... Snapped the connector back in. VRROOOOMMM... There is FIRE in the VULCAN once more!!! Now if I can find that electric glove battery hook up....vrago (I checked the BUBF wiring diagram for my 1995A, and the "extra" connector is an important grounding wire that includes the fuel pump. No electricity, no go. Manjo)
TECH TIP: A few days ago a member went to start his bike and all that happened was a click sound from the starter motor. This has happened to me twice on a previous bike (BMW R65) the cause was ONE dead cell in the battery, leaving me with only 10 volts. Note the starter motor requires 12 volts and with only 10 the bendix gear flicks out "click" but cant turn the motor over. The Battery in question was the BMW battery which has very long cell plates and when sediment accumulates in the bottom of the battery it shorts the cell out. A quick check of the headlight will reveal no problem as every thing else will work on 10 volts (i.e. I bump started my bike and road home). One last point Yuasa battery replacement for the R65 had more room in the bottom of the battery and never gave a problem. Bob #2075 97 1500 classic
-- wiredgeorge CMA 74623 VROC 2420 bubf nad fi ---- Mico Tx.
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25a. Replacing your alternator stator and Regulator/Rectifier Link to updated stator test and replacement proceedure with pictures on removing stock stator and replacing with stock or after market stator. Also notes on replacing regulator/rectifier. Stator Testing and Replacement
Here is a useful link describing stator and regulator and rectifier principals: http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/Stator.html courtesy of Hatrack VROC #'s 4186
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25b. Installing a Drag Specialties TACH. Below is a picture of the installed tach mounted on the left 5 1/2 X 4 1/2 riser. There's plenty of room and this pushes the tach forward of the handle bar for a cleaner look. Click HERE for install write-up with wiring tips and suggestions.
TECH TIP: Replacing tach light bulb. There's one thin wire harness with the power to the unit and the input pulses from coils. Right above the wire is a removable rubber plug that comes right out. Behind it is a small rectangular piece of plastic with a grove at each end. This is the bulb holder. Use a pair of heavy tweezers or small needle nose pliers to fit the grooves and turn the base gently counterclockwise a 1/3 turn and the base and bulb come right out. You can pull the bulb out with your fingers. I replaced the burnt out bulb with a Sylvania #74 (2 bulb pack $2.00??). The #74 is a really small bulb that has 2 wires coming out the base and up each side of the bulb. Sort of like the small bulbs used in the long strings of small white Xmas tree bulbs. Just push the bulb into the groove in the base holder. Take your time inserting the base and bulb back into the tach. It's a tight fit and it's only a small turn clockwise to properly seat the bulb. Put the rubber plug back i place and you're good to go. Manjo v1111
Thumb nail of installed tach. Click for larger picture.
26c. Turn Signal BUZZER Reminder.
The turn signal relay has an orange wire that goes to the turn signal switch which is how the wire is colored on my 1500A and it should be the same on BUBF's. Splice in the piezo at the turn signal relay on the orange wire, you'd be OK.
Here's an archive links with the details you'd need. It's written for a 97 Classic, but will work with a BUBF (same wires colors).
http://www.vroc.org/archive/2000/msg44180.html
Two suggestions: the BUBF turn signal is located behind the battery on the left side of the bike just behind the left side cover. The archive instructions describe pushing the buzzer wires into the respective turn signal female connector slots of the rubber connector. Then push the connector back over the male spade connectors of the turn signal. This will work fine. If you have a problem with the lights acting funny or staying on when you set the turn signal handle bar switch, try running the black buzzer wire to a ground point on the frame or engine.
The other tip to consider is running the buzzer wires along the top tube of the bike frame under the tank and under the seat, then down to the turn signal unit. This will keep the wires away from the engine area.
I don't have the buzzer on my bike, but the instructions refer to two (2) wires that go to the turn signal unit located behind the battery. One wire is orange/with green stripe (O/G, positive or hot from the junction box) that connects with the red buzzer wire, and orange (O) for the black buzzer wire, that goes to the turn signal handlebar switch and from the switch to the either the right or left turn signal lights depending on the switch setting. You may have to clean off the turn signal unit connector wires to see the orange colors and green stripe.
Manjo ~V~1111 1500A9
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