This is my version of a time-tested list of
equipment for a 2-6 day non-technical winter expedition (original credits
to Bernard Ng, Chris Wee and others). I tend to be more of an overpacker than
a minimalist and the list already reflects that, so think twice before adding
more items.
The basic rules of outerwear are:
(a) dress in layers (forget about "all in one"
designs). You will use a moisture-wicking layer close to your body (usually
made of polypropilene), an air-trapping insulating layer next (usually fleece
or wool), and a waterproof/breathable layer next (GoreTex is the market reference,
but there are other brand names for the laminate material).
(b) avoid cotton. It is great for your pajamas
and for the beach. It doesn't work for the outdoors. Cotton will absorb water
and perspiration and freeze when it gets really cold.
(c) your life may depend on the equipment.
Favor quality and functionality over fashion or price. Use common sense and
expert advice. For example, you can use consumer fleece from Target instead
of an expensive Patagonia, but do not take a cheap nylon jacket as your outer
shell. REI is going mainstream/consumer, but it is still probably the best
place to shop for climbing equipment.
Below are two lists. One is a generic list.
The other is an example for a 2-day Mt. Shasta trip.
Expedition Equipment Checklist (updated 06/2005)
Personal stuff:
First layer: Thermal skin. Made of polypropilene,
nylon/poliester, or another moisture wicking material. Take one complete
set (top and bottom) per night you spent on the mountain (up to 3 for longer
trips). Select between lightweight or expedition weight depending on expected
weather.
Second layer: Fleece Jacket. Use a good
quality, medium or heavy weight fleece. Pockets, front zipper, reinforced
shoulders and elbows are useful features. North Face and Patagonia are good
brands, but good quality consumer fleece works.
Shell: Good quality jacket with hood and
pants made of Goretex or equivalent breathable/waterproof laminate material.
"Water Resistant" is not enough. North Face is the reference, Marmot and
Columbia are less expensive.
Socks: Anything comfortable that is not
made of cotton. Socks must be snug (if you wear shoes size 9 and buy "one
size fits all", they are probably too big). I like "Ultimax" (by Wingwan).
Sock liners (made of propylene) are also be useful to avoid blisters. Take
one pair per day on the mountain.
Gloves: Ski gloves work. Preferably made
of waterproof/breathable laminated material. Glove liners are good.
Shorts: one pair to wear over thermals (anything
will do).
Underwear: as many as you think you need,
coolmax is better but you regular undies will do.
Boots: Must be crampon-compatible (full
shank, clip fittings). For Spring climbing, lightweight boots are more comfortable
(mine are made by La Sportiva). For fresh snow, heavy duty plastic boots
are recommended. Kolflach is the reference in plastic boots.
Hat: wide brim if you expect lots of sun,
balaclava if you expect cold and windy conditions
Gaters: To prevent pebbles and snow from
entering your boots. Anything will do.
Backpack: Buy a large one (3500+
cu in), with an internal frame. Avoid external frames (those are for flat
trails). Pockets, compartiments, clips are good.
Summit pack (2000 cu). Enough to carry water,
some food and jacket
Straps: Get several pairs. Useful to secure
sleeping pads and other items to the pack.
Sleeping Bag: Get a good quality sleeping
bag (20 F or better). Syntetic materials are less expensive and low-maintenance.
Goose down packs lighter and smaller but can lose insulation in wet conditions.
Sleeping pad: I bring a couple of low-tech
foam pads (RidgeRest), but the expensive inflatable "Thermarest" also works.
Ice axe: with leash. If you hold it down
barefoot, its tip should be one or two inches from the floor.
Crampons: for glacier travel, not front-pointing.
Grivel is a popular brand.
Sunglasses and/or goggles
Headlamp with extra batteries
Helmet: for head protection. Bike helmets
are better than nothing
Nalgene widemouth Lexan water bottles.
Yes, you can bring your hydration pack, but do not rely on it. Bladders can
burst, don't work with water filters, cannot collect running water, tubing
will freeze. Yes, Target sells lexan bottles, but Nalgene is the real stuff
and doesn't cost much more nowadays. You need at least two bottles and a
total of 4 liters of water carrying capacity.
Plastic whistle for signaling and emergency
Swiss army knife
Lexan spoon
Lexan cup or plastic bow
Sunblock
Toilet paper in a handy ziploc bag
Medications that you need
Day-time food (bars, nuts, jerky, cheese,
etc)
Camera/Film (optional)
Plastic wristwatch with alarm. Important
for meeting times and progress tracking
Toilletries, Moist wipes. Foot care
(band-aid, moleskin, duct tape)
Nylon stuffing bags (to organize gear)
Ziploc bags (useful for food, garbage,
clothing)
Plastic bags. They weight nothing and
can be used to protect gear in case of rain/snow, as improvised vapor barrier
in case your boots get wet, to carry garbage, etc.
Group Stuff:
Tent: Get a good convertible 4-season tent.
You can use it for mountaineering and leisure camping. 4-season tents can
be zipped so that it is all solid walls (not mesh) and have sturdy poles
that can resist strong winds.
Metal stakes and rope to secure tent
Repair Kit in long expeditions (for tent,
stove, etc)
Stove/Gas/Matches. Mountaineering stoves
burn white gas. The amount of gas depends on several factors, but a rule
of thumb is one litter of white gas per 6 persons per night spent in the
mountain. Propane (and other types of gas) do not work well in high elevations.
Cookware (two saucepans to boil water)
Food: Hot meals are important. The most
efficient and practical are cook-in-the-bag freeze dried food. Instant noodles,
dehydrated potato, instant oatmeal are other options.
Filter, Iodine. Filters can eliminate
protozoa and other solid matter. Iodine kills whatever is left. In the US,
giardia is the main concern and, in theory, microfilters alone can do the
job. Newer water purification systems (based on oxidizing brine or UV) are
also available. There is additional info on water purification in this site.
Map/Compass/Altimeter/Binoculars
Rope
First-aid Kit
Shovel/Bucket
Communication device (cell phone/radio)
Equipment Checklist for a 2-day early summer
climb of Mt. Shasta (updated 06/2005)
Personal stuff:
1 or 2 thermal bottoms
2 thermal tops
1 mid-weight fleece jacket
1 waterproof shell with hood
1 pair of waterproof pants
2 pairs of sock liners
2 pairs of trekking socks
1 pair of glove liners
1 pair of waterproof gloves
1 pair of nylon shorts
2 sets of underwear
1 pair of crampon-compatible boots
1 hat
1 montaneering helmet
1 pair of gaters (not needed in late summer)
1 internal frame backpack (3500+ cu in)
1 Summit pack (2000 cu)
4 straps
1 sleeping bag 20F or better
1 foam sleeping pad
1 Ice axe with leash
1 pair of crampons
1 Sunglasses and/or goggles
1 Headlamp with extra batteries
4 Nalgene widemouth Lexan water bottles
1 Plastic whistle for signaling and emergency
1 Swiss army knife
1 Lexan spoon
Sunblock
Toilet paper in a handy ziploc bag
Medications that you need
2 packs of day-time food (bars, nuts, jerky,
cheese, etc)
2 packs of freeze dried food
1 Plastic wristwatch with alarm
Toilletries, Moist wipes. Foot care (band-aid,
moleskin, duct tape)
Nylon stuffing bags (to organize gear)
Ziploc bags (useful for food, garbage, clothing)
Plastic bags. They weight nothing and can
be used to protect gear in case of rain/snow, as improvised vapor barrier
in case your boots get wet, to carry garbage, to cover your backpack, protect
boots from freezing, etc.
Group Stuff:
4-season tent (3-season can surivive in
late summer)
Metal stakes and rope to secure tent (usually
not needed in late summer)