The MANUAL By Eduardo (English Edition) 1996 Net-wise
Survival in Various Situations
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 15:09:52
From: danagain@gnn.com (Dan Hoff)
To: richard@io.org
Subject: eduardo
The MANUAL By Eduardo (English Edition)
Survival in Various Situations
Water and Food
Shelter
Fire
Emergency Medicine / First Aid Considerations
Evasion and Detection
Caching
Booby Trapping .
Organization ot Resistance Groups
Codes:
Expected Insurgent Scenarios: Tactics and Equipment
Resistance to Various Insurgent Actions and Equipment
References to Valuable Books
Checklists for First Aid and Survival Packs
This pamphlet may be produced in full or in part, and may be
translator, stored or transmitted electronically, or excerpted,
provided that;
1) credit is given "The Manual by Eduardo" and
2) in case of this manual's being part of a talk or seminar for a
fee, that the complete manual is available to all attendees free of
charge; or that this reference is not a material part of the
presentation; or of a publication. Ooopppsss! WWW?
Survival in Various situations.
Survival Requirements:
Water
Shelter
Fire
Food
Medical / Emergency
Routine prescription drugs and Eyeglasses
Self protection
HOW much you need:
Water (approx. 8 lbs./gal)
Drinking:
From two quarts/day/person under ideal conditions
(cool, no travel, humid, no wind, with healthy people) to two
gallons/day/person under adverse conditions (any of the above).
Extreme conditions may require even more drinking water.
Preparing food = plan on one quart/day/person
Washing:
At least one quart/person/day. Re use as appropriate on
lesser tasks. Re distill or boil, or throw out on dry land if it
becomes irrecoverable.
Where you get it:
Homes:
Go to lowest water tap in house, drain system from pipes by
opening highest taps one at a time (five to ten gallons/house)
Toilet tanks (generally potable unless some kind of sanitizer in
tank. Do not drink if sanitizing device is in tank. even if it
looks used up!) Uncontaminated toilet tank water can also be
used for food preparation. If "sanitized," use this water for washing,
fire fighting, etc.
Toilet bowls. NEVER drink this water! it can be used for washing
(not wounds or open skin), fire fighting, plant growth, cooling, etc.
Hot water tanks. This is generally sale to drink, but bad
tasting. A tank can hold twenty gallons or more. hook up a clean
garden hose to the bottom of the tank, open the cock (faucet), and
open the faucets on top.
Cached water:
You should store as much fresh water as you can, ideally thirty gallons
per person minimum. Store in clean, full containers of 1-5 gallon
capacity. Dump, air dry, and refill containers every 90 days before
the disaster, and you will have a month's supply of drinking water
for your family. Some families will abandon their homes.
Look for their stored water.
Public buildings:
Generally same as homes, except that many public buildings will
have higher pressures due to their height, so use caution.
Note: Many public buildings remove tap handles; you may have to
bring a vise grip pliers or a hacksaw and other tools. If you cut
off a tap, or cut into a pipe, you may get more water than you
bargained for, so be ready to catch large quantities, and have a
tapered plug ready for the hole(s).
Outdoors:
Always purify the water before drinking or using it for food
preparation (purification tablets, boiling al least five minutes,
iodine, distilling).
Note: Surface water is usually more polluted than underground
water. Do not be fooled by "pure" looking streams or lakes!
Purifying water:
There is no safe way to remove some contaminants (e.g., nuclear
fallout, some chemical agents). These procedures should be used for
all cases when the water is not known to be safe:
Distilling. This is the best method to recover clean water,
provided the equipment is clean. See figure 1 (creating a solar
still), or build from available pots and pipes for more permanent
installation. Tastes fine, and is as free of chemicals, bacteria,
viruses, etc., as is the equipment used.
Solar still:
Dig a hole 3X2 on a side and 3X2 deep. Set heavy plastic (4mil+)
over the hole, anchor the edge with rocks, place one rock in the center
over the cup, fill pit with wet leaves. use drink tube to avoid
having to dismantle.
These methods will kill bacteria, will not affect nuclear fallout,
will not generally affect poisons:
Water purification tablets:
(Source: Camping stores,discount stores in camping section.)
These kill bacteria, make the water taste funny. Use per directions.
Note: Do not open the package containing the tablets until you need them.
These tabs deteriorate with age and humidity, and opening the original
package "starts the clock" on deterioration. For better taste, treat, then
filter the water, then shake it up. Let it stand fifteen minutes or so, shake,
and drink.
Boiling. Filter after boiling at least five minutes on a heavy rolling boil.
Shelter ( 10 sq. ft. /person min.)
Shelter can be found in your own home (in a small area insulated
from the rest of the house to ease in heating) or in other
buildings. Improvised shelters can be built from available
materials or carried for use when needed (tents tarps).
Requirements: keep occupants dry eliminate wind, insulate (block or
retain heat) allow sanitation and hygiene.
Secondary requirements: Provide security from detection and/or
invasion.
Homes: Best results achieved when you remember that this is not a
"house" (complete system of shelter and convenience) but a shelter
only. You must not take any system" (heat water toilet) for
granted and must be ready at any time to take over those functions.
Immediately upon determining the need:
1 ) Construct outdoor sanitation (latrine) in a location
which will not contaminate your water supply. A slit latrine a
ditch a foot deep (deeper is better) and as long as you can make it
will suffice, provided you bury all solid wastes every time.
2) Insulate the smallest room you can all live in or the smallest
room which contains a working fireplace (if you will be able to use
it). Seal all doors but one, seal and cover all windows & heating vents.
3) Bring in all bedding and food. keep firewood covered and
outdoors. Take an inventory of all survival items (water food
medical supplies and prescriptions batteries radios matches tools
firearms and ammunition blankets sleeping bags).
1) Assign areas for each family member to care for and determine
The common area. Assign fire extinguishers to all appropriate
members.
5) Assign common items to common area, individuals' items to their
areas, and remove other (non essential) items to another area of
the house.
6) List items which will need to go with you, if you would need to
leave. Include sleeping bags, medical supplies, a "survival kit,"
and at least three days' worth of food and water (and plan to take
as much as you can carry!). Pack these items for rapid evacuation,
& don't use them, or use them only after all other supplies are gone.
7) Plan to establish communication with others who would help. Work
with them to use passwords for one another. Determine what your
neighbors have available, which they would be willing to share
(special tools, extra medical supplies, communications equipment,
batteries), and work with them to develop a list for each other.
Never steal from a neighbor! Always work out a payment of some
kind!
B) Establish a re grouping point for your neighbors, so that, if
you are forced to leave, you will be able to link each other.
Establish what you can count on each other to bring to the
rendezvous. Establish a secondary rendezvous, in the event that the
primary location is unattainable.
Other buildings:
You will be trespassing here, so you must determine that your stay
will be a safe one. Landowners, police, and fellow trespassers will
have to be accommodated; or you must hide.
You will be limited in what you can bring by what you can carry,
so, if there is time, perform steps 3 and 6, above.
Sanitation is a primary requirement, so establish your own, and
inform and help others to pursue that goal with you. If conditions
become septic, you will all die.
Using rapport built when addressing the sanitation issue, develop a
plan with the others to share whatever items you are willing to share
(get guarantees before you give up anything).
Find out what other resources (water, food, fuel, medicine) are nearby
who controls them and if there are hostiles in the neighborhood;
and what threat they constitute. Plan for the common defense if
necessary (see appropriate sections). Follow step 8 above.
Set up details to get food to stand watch to care for babies and
the sick. Children can help in "exploring " ( in groups) if the
area is safe enough. Their perspective is valuable!
Establish rules of inheritance: Have each household prepare its
will to reduce squabbling when someone dies or disappears.
Plan for whatever outcome look likely: Rescue, invasion, rising
waters. These plans established before the ultimate crisis will be
better made & the planning process helps camaraderie & efficiency.
Outdoors:
Shelter is readily available nearly everywhere from construction
sites in The cities to the plains. Natural features should be used
wherever safe. Embankments, hillsides, caves, forested areas they
all offer abundant shelter. The real considerations are for water
food and secrecy (if detection is to be a problem).
Nearly anything can be a shelter. Make sure it keeps you dry out of
the wind and provides a spot to keep warm (or out of the sun). A
basic shelter and a fire can feel very much like "home" no matter
how rustic.
Considerations: Location should be safe from natural disasters
Stay out of river and creekbeds whether they are full or dry
regardless of season. Weather is unpredictable; and man made
disasters (dams collapsing) are always possible.
Mines are dangerous. They often are filled with noxious gases
poison water and freefalls. Unless the mine is scouted by someone
knowledgeable, don't even go in.
Caves can be good places to find shelter. Make sure that the cave
cannot be flooded. If you are in danger from others, be sure that
you can defend the cave's entrance from direct (ballistic) and
indirect (smoke, gas, grenade) attack. Also, everybody knows that
caves are good shelter, so expect to have to cooperate with others.
Caves are often used by animals and children, and often are filthy.
Clean them out, one area at a time if necessary, but do not let a
cave stay filthy! That invites disease, and the critters which
lived there will feel still at home if their mess isn't disturbed.
Trees may be felled (or already fallen), and these can anchor a
good lean to. Though not as water-proof as a cave, they are clean,
and can be made quite cozy with boughs or a tarp. The lean to
design effectively uses reflected heat from a fire, if discovery is
not a problem.
Tents are good temporary shelter, and should be part of the home
evacuation kit. they can be pitched nearly anywhere, are dry,
relatively windproof, secure, and can be camouflaged if necessary.
Stakeless designs are preferred.
Other items can provide good shelter: overturned canoes, boats,
sheets of plywood, roofing material, shower curtains, panels from
autos (hoods, doors, trunk lids), or entire abandoned autos can be
put to good temporary use. Just get dry, get warm, and have a drink
of water, and you're ready for another day!
References abound. One favorite, which has good information
especially about mountaineering, is US Army Field Manual FM
31 72, "MOUNTAIN OPERATIONS."
Fire:
Have ready at least three different means of creating fire ready
at all times..
Several methods are mentioned below. You must practice with all
these methods! Simply having a slick, rock, and a bow will not be
enough, if you don 't know how to use them under adverse
conditions!
Getting a light will not be enough if you do not know how to
shelter the flame and create a good fire lay. Practice!
1 ) Matches. These should be in a waterproof container. Waterproof
matches are a good idea, too. The "strike anywhere" matches,
regular and extended ("fireplace") matches are a good idea.
2) Lighter. Sealed lighters (non refillable) are good because
they're full (at least if you don't use them!). They're bad at
altitude because they are extremely flammable, even explosive.
The fillable lighters (e.g., Zippo) are great if they're full. Empty,
they are good flint and steel. Better than nothing, but not good.
3) Magnesium fire starters. These are commercially available, and
produce a hot flame by burning magnesium cut from a block, then
sparked by striking flint and steel (flint included). They require
a lot of shaving, and the flame is brief.
1) Steel wool. Using 0000 steel wool and a 9 volt battery will
always start strips of paper on fire, if you blow on it enough.
(You can use an SOS pad and a car battery instead. Just have the
kindling ready!)
5) Flint and steel. Generates sparks. You must practice a lot with
this method. Works well to light fumes.
6) Bow, slick, rock, and block. This is the old Indian fire
starting trick. If you practice enough, you can make this one work,
too. Probably toughest of These listed methods.
7) Lens and sunlight. This method is fairly easy, provided you can
count on sunlight, and have plenty of dry tinder, when you need a
fire. Many lenses can be used binoculars, photo lenses, rifle scope.
Note: It is good to have accelerants (fire "cream," small
quantities of gasoline, alcohol) available to use if your fire
starting method is marginal, or if conditions are terrible, or if
an unskilled member needs to start a fire on his own. handy item
to carry is a bunch of the trick" birthday candles which are hard
to blow out. These will remain lighted under fairly bad conditions,
until you can get other finder going.
Food:
Food is essential, especially for The mind's well-being. First,
some hints for when you're hungry:
a) Suck on a rock. Find a clean rock, close your eyes, and imagine
a great feast. In your mind, savor each morsel of each course,
turning the rock over and over in your mouth.
b) Have a sip of water, with or without your rock. (Don't swallow
the rock!) Imagine a different feast, or maybe a frozen treat.
c) Graze. Try a little greenery, or some fiber.
d) Remember that most Americans carry twenty percent or more of
their body weight in fat. This will last a long lime, generally a
month or so (wilt zero food intake). You'll feel weak, and be
grumpy without any food; and people with existing health problems
(diabetes, ulcers, hypoglycemia) will be in a bad way, so it is
best to hoard and cache before the problem, and locate food as soon
as shelter, water, and fire are attained.
Hoarding:
Pile up as much food as your cupboards will hold. Concentrate on
non perishable, non processed, high calorie and high protein foods.
It is OK to stock your refrigerator and freezer, but remember, when
the power goes off, you will have a maximum of two days (maybe with
no way to cook) in which to use your refrigerated food. Rotate your
food stocks! Eat the oldest food first.
Caching food:
In every food cache, include a large container (unopened) of high
potency multiple vitamins. Take one every other day. Include a
carefully wrapped container of salt. Not only is it good for
cooking and preserving, it may eventually make a good medium of
exchange (money substitute) foods for caching need to be capable of
being left alone for extended periods (a year or more).
Make sure that these (goods and their packages are of the highest
quality, with no opened bags or containers, which will attract critters
and allow molds to spread.
Cache carefully, where you think you will be able to retrieve the
cache (see section on caching).
Locating food:
In populated areas:
Food stores will be empty within 40 hours of the disaster, and will
be heavily protected. Even if you have money to spend, owners will
probably be unwilling to part with what's left. Go back in two
weeks and see what's still there. Look for medicines, paper towels,
aluminum foil, tools, plastic sheet, fuel. Don't count on this source.
Restaurants will be empty immediately, and most of what they have
is perishable. Ask, don't take!
Public and business buildings, left unguarded, are good places to
look. Vending machines will most certainly be fooled, so look
elsewhere. Desk drawers and file drawers often contain "snack
food," which keeps a long time. Any fresh fruits should be eaten
right away, even during the search. Make your food sweep at the
same time you are gathering water from these buildings.
Apartments and private homes abandoned only may have quite a
stash of foods. Empty and eat from refrigerator and freezer, if you
are not too late. Gather all food from cupboards, pack according to
shelf life.
Trucks which carry food are likely to be either empty or guarded,
but it's foolish not to look. Abandoned only, or pay for what you take!
In rural areas:
Treat buildings same as above. Always ask, pay or determine that
it's abandoned before taking anything the owners have a right to
not starve, too!
In cultivated fields, try to locate the owner. if unsuccessful,
gather only the best .specimens, as inferior, infested, or infected
produce will destroy other food, and can make you sick.
Livestock should be kept alive as long as possible, to provide
fresh meat when you really need it, and possibly milk in the
meantime. if you can get a breeding pair, so much the better.
In the "wild," game will become scarce rapidly. Make sure you know
what you really want. (If you kill the squirrel, you won't be able
to track him to his stash)
High protein insects (most of them, especially grasshoppers) become
tastier, the hungrier you get. Insects are good food, either raw or
broiled and mixed with other food.
Most plants are edible, and many show the way to water
The general rule is to eat first whatever is most perishable or
nearly spoiled, and never waste anything!
Foods to slash, which have good nutrition, require minimal
maintenance. and are readily available:
Beans (almost any Type), lentils
Bouillon (for flavoring stone soup)
Candy bars, foil wrapped "pop tarts"
Canned foods (but protect from freezing!)
Dried fruits
Dried milk, fruit cloth ("fruit leather" see section how to make)
Honey, Jerked or salt dried meats (essential amino acids)
Nuts (almost any type) Roasted in oil is Ok (remember, we need the
calories!), and salted is likewise OK.
Packaged pasta
Pemmican (your favorite blend see how to make) Salt, pepper, other
spices
Tea (for flavoring icky water, to make poultices}
Whole grains (wheat, rice, corn)
Water (use and re fil every four months). Note: You must pay
attention that you rotate your stocks carefully. These foods have
widely varying shelf lives, and storage can be affected by
temperature and humidity. Do not open the packages until ready to
use. Write the expiration date on each package in an evident
location. Contaminated foods can rapidly ruin neighboring foods.
Check often. Store everything in plastic bags, jars, bottles, in
coffee cans, or in other moisture proof containers. Sprinkle moth
balls around the storage area (do not get moth balls in contact
with food!).
Caloric requirements (really rough guide):
Plan on twenty calories per day per pound, for a medium build
adult, ten to fifteen per pound of obese adult, thirty per pound of
active pre teen or teenager (even more for babies), and fifteen
calories per pound per day for seniors, more or less. (E.g., A 100
lb. adult would receive 20x100, or 2000, calories per day when
engaged in active outdoor work.
Less is required for sedentary people or days, but you need to
plan as though everyone will be active, moving things, building a camp,
defending an area,retreating, gathering or hunting, etc.)
Calories should be from as: diverse sources as possible, and should be
supplemented by as much water as is practical, along with "daily" multiple
vitamins (taken at least every other day).
How to Make Fruit cloth (fruit leather"): Core, pit, etc., a
large quantity of fruit (apples and dates work well; kiwi and
pears, for example, are poor for this process) and run it through
the blender until it is "mush." Spread this out on a pan 1/4. to
1/2" thick, and heat it until it is partially dried and rubbery.
Cut into strips about 4 6" wide and roll up tightly. Store in
airtight containers. Keeps about a year.
Pemmican: "Classic" pemmican dates at least to [Roman times.
People would dry or jerk meat, chop it up into little bits, add fresh
or dried fruits, nuts, and whatever else was handy, and mix this glop
into fat, grease, or suet, and then push it into sections of
intestine. Later, people loaded it into waxed rolled up paper,
peeling it as necessary to eat the pemmican inside.
Modern pemmican is more palatable. The base for this is usually
peanut butter rather than suet; and the mixture can be "thinned"
with honey. Store this in heavy ziplock bags, squeezing out all the
air before sealing. Keeps a year or more in sealed bags in the
refrigerator, up to six months (sometimes more) in reasonable room
temperatures. One "1 quart" bag, an inch thick, plus adequate
water, will provide food for about two days of hard traveling.
Good references from our government: ST 31 205, "CACHING
TECHNIQUES," US Army Field Manual FM 21-76, "SURVIVAL,"
(Older editions are titled, "Survival, Evasion, and Escape).
Medical / Emergency:
First aid kit needs to contain the basics: disinfectant, salve,
covering, and closure. Painkillers will be helpful, as well. Also
include hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, iodine (for disinfecting, or to
purify water), sunscreen, Vaseline (thousands of uses), ace
bandages, butterfly bandages and super glue to close wounds, & tools.
Tools include needles and thread (unwaxed, non flavored
dental floss works well, and serves other purposes), tweezers, nail
clippers and file, small scissors, burn cream, antiseptic ointment,
and plenty of gauze and self adhesive bandages and tape.
Medicines include painkillers (aspirin, Percodan, and topical
anesthetics (lidocaine,novocaine), antibiotics, as well as
morphine, if you can get it, toothpaste, mouthwash (Listerine type
recommended, due to its other practical disinfectant uses, but don't
get the soda pop kind;
It's sticky rather than clean), flea shampoo, collars, and powder
(for anyone who comes in contact with fleas or ticks), and
maintenance prescription drugs.
To get antibiotics and prescription painkillers such as morphine
and Percodan, you must explain to your doctor why you need them.
Try different doctors, or get a referral from a "patriot" source.
Veterinarians are also good sources of equivalent drugs. (Be sure
to understand equivalent doses!) For regular maintenance drugs
(insulin, lithium,Tagamet), you can usually keep aside 5-10% of
them each time you re fill. Rotate your stock, and you will build
up enough spare medicine to see you through a reasonable time.
If the looting starts, your pharmacy is a good place to pick up those
essential medicines, but you're better off planning, hoarding, and
caching those items.
Buy and keep a spare pair of eyeglasses available al all times, in
your "good to go" kilt Sunglasses may also be handy. (Often, the
chain optical shops offer two pair of their ugliest frames for $49
or so.
In an emergency, you'll be glad you have them.) Do not count on contact
lenses lasting through a disaster. Have glasses al hand (Keep your old
dentures for the same reasons.)
Get, read, and keep a good first aid manual (such as those put out
by the Boy Scouts or the Red Cross). Practice emergencies with your
family and your immediate '"primary' cell. Innovate as much as
possible, especially concerning splints, bandages, and bindings, as
these might not be available when you are in distress.
Reference: a really good book, by Dr. James Wilkerson, MD, is
called Medicine for Mountaineering (the Mountaineers, Seattle, WA).
Self Protection:
This section begins with a discussion of the likely types of
adversaries and their probable armaments, and gives a general idea
of how to survive against them.
Detailed sections follow, and will show specifics of evasion,
defense, harassment, and combat of those antagonistic forces.
Adversaries:
Neighbors. These folks, whom you know, may come around looking
for food, water, medicines, or supplies. They can be dangerous,
although usually they will move on if so told. If you have
something to share, these are the folks to share with. Try to
barter, rather than donate.
If they refuse to barter, you can run them off using whatever level
of force is necessary. Usually, they will simply go to another
neighbor's house, or find an abandoned place to scavenge.
If they barter with you, you may find that you want to include them
in more of your survival activities. You may also find that they are
being deceitful in order to gain your confidence, so be cautious.
Strangers fall into two broad categories: the above: l mentioned
neighbors, and roving gangs of scavengers and looters. Scavengers
will generally go somewhere else, if confronted with any sincere
resistance. Looters are thugs, are usually armed, and are always to
be considered dangerous. The key with looters is to present
yourself as the most capable target in the area, so that they go away.
Looters who return should be dealt with as the enemy.
Paramilitary (police) groups are always armed, wear body armor,
have bad attitudes, and will try to destroy anyone who resists. You
have choices, based on your perception of the problem: hide,
cooperate (at least on the surface), or prepare to counterattack
with all the force at your disposal. The last choice is the most
dangerous, and should be attempted only if death or removal seem
imminent.
Military ground groups may come. If friendly, it is still good
advice to hide, to keep quiet, or to appear cooperative. Do not
abandon your house! It these folks are hostile, the best defense is
to hide or escape. Otherwise, you must be ready to face high
casualties. Armored troops (tanks, armored personnel carriers,
Bradley vehicles, etc.) may be encountered. If you must fight,
some tactics are included in a following section.
If you live in a coastal area, you may be attacked from the sea.
Dig in, cover yourself, and hide with your gas masks; escape to
your first safe rendezvous if possible. Similar defenses hiding
are best for attack from the air. (The exception is the low level
helicopter gunship attack. If you are likely to be killed while
trying to hide, you must try to destroy the enemy. Some field
expedients for this eventuality will follow.)
Defenses:
"Neighbors," "looters," and "scavengers" usually travel in small,
finite groups, carry common weapons, and do not wear armor nor
travel in armored vehicles. Defense consists of perimeter warning
devices (booby traps, signal wires, sentries), simple defense
ordinance (home made baby mines, booby napped entrances), and
hand weapons (rifle, pistol, shotgun, sword, knife).
"paramilitary' groups may be on your side, so determine that first!
These folks usually have light armor, body armor, smoke generators,
gas, flame-throwers, communications equipment, and good quality
sidearms. They also likely have night vision equipment, sensitive
hearing devices, and may have ultrasound weapons for surveillance
or as offensive weaponry. Hiding (bring a gas mask!) is a good
first idea.
Escape (if return is possible, or if you can reach your
cache) is another good idea. Remember, you do not want to be
relocated! Once you are away from your home, your family, your
food, water, medicine, and weapons, you're as good as dead, so you
might as well fight right now.
"Military" groups are similar to the paramilitary," but may also
have sea and air support, heavier mobile artillery, and larger
numbers. Same comments as for paramilitary," except these folks
are rarely friendly; you'll probably know before they're there.
You may have more time to evacuate or booby trap, because these groups,
being larger and more confident, may travel more slowly. Make sure,
if you are evacuating, that you are not merely being "herded" to a place
where it is easier to kill or capture you.
Your defensive tools:
Silence: Be quiet, even when you think you're safe. Move quietly,
talk little. Develop sign language.
Territory:
You know it, they don't. You can prepare it, and they
cannot anticipate your preparations. Caches of (god, medicine,
weapons are yours to make. Hiding places can be set up; your cell
can arrange rendezvous, regroup, and initiate flanking or
harassment actions.
(Don't try to attack real military forces:
Unless you are discovered and there is no way to surrender, or if
surrender means death. Fighting means death, too, so if you must
fight, just inflict as many casualties on the enemy as you can.)
Your brain is your most useful tool; use it!
Home: You should have a booby trap program set up, and ready to
implement. Even if you leave, a booby trapped neighborhood can slow
down a large force.
Cover:
Have a place to hide, near your first cache and rendezvous
point, unknown to anyone other than your family. You can observe
the rendezvous from there, safe from the danger of having the enemy
tipped off about the point. With some food and water and first aid
supplies, you will have a bit of flexibility in your next action.
Equipment:
You will need gas masks in your home, plus a way to stay
warm, and enough water to see you through. Outside your home, bring
water, purification tablets and containers, sleeping bags, and your
regular survival kit.
Offensive weaponry:
This will consist of your knife, ax, blowgun, bow / crossbow, rifle,
pistol, shotgun, and ammunition. (Once you have left your home,
your shotgun becomes drastically less important except for downing
helicopters see section , and your rifle ever more so.)
If you must leave things behind which could fall into enemy
hands, it is best to destroy or booby trap them. (Destroy them if
they may be recovered by friendly elements. Friendlies need not
become victims of your booby traps)
References which you may find handy are (US Army) SH 21 76,
"RANGER HANDBOOK" and US Army Field Manual FM 31 21,
"GUERRILLA WARFARE and SPECIAL FORCES OPERATIONS."
These are interesting, although not must-haves."
Organizing Survival Groups:
Cell structure:
Each cell (pentagon) has five members, who can be individuals,
married couples, or families.
Each member is represented by a circle, showing that members
primary group. (P) and secondary group (S) cell affiliations.
No member may be a primary member of more then one cell. Cell
structure is diverse and unpredictable; this makes the structure
hard to infiltrate or destroy. see text for organizational details
The family (or "member") consists of blood relatives and others
who have lived together for a long lime, who have total trust in
each other. A family can be as few as one, is usually five or less,
but as many as a dozen can function together.
The cell is made up of five families, but a cell seldom is made
up of only five individuals. Each cell "famiIy" (member) is
attached to two other ("secondary") cells, and therefore knows four
members of his own primary group, three more members from each
secondary group, and has a contact (through secondary groups) with
more cells, by knowing members in his three (one primary, two
secondary) cells who are members of other cells (see diagram).
Information travels from cell to cell by way of the common members,
who attend cell meetings each week, and stay in touch with members
of both primary and secondary cells by telephone, FAX, or e mail.
Each member (or family) is a member of a "primary" and no more than
two "secondary" cells. Each member knows ten other members, and no
more, and has up to three group rendezvous points. Only "primary"
cell members are privy to that cell's cache locations.
Cell members contribute to the caches of their primary cells. Every
cell must have at least three primary members, and no more than four.
Members communicate weekly with all their cells (primary and
secondary), and at least monthly, meet face to face in their primary cells.
Members should take turns hosting their primary cell meetings in
their homes, and should attend, in person, their secondary cells'
meetings at least every other month. Weekly telephone contact
with all primary and secondary members is required.
No written records of anything the cell does, says, or plans
should be in writing, nor stored electronically, except by the cell leader.
The leader is prohibited from storing by any means the MPCR
(Membership, Plans, Cache, and Rendezvous) information.
These must always be memorized.
(Do not:
Store the phone or FAX numbers electronically, either; in a speed
dialer or on disk!) Assure that any maps showing rendezvous or
other strategic locations are marked in coded manner, so that
discovery of such a map will not lead the finder to the actual location.
Members are encouraged to use code for other members names,
for names of rendezvous points, for speaking of caches, and
other sensitive information (see "Codes").
Recruits to a cell must be sponsored by a primary cell member, and
attend cell meetings at only that member's home until acceptance.
At that time, the recruit will either find a spot in the recruiting
cell, or be recommended to another cell by all the recruiting
cell's members.
Recruits must be carefully checked during the recruitment process,
to weed out opportunists, agents provocateurs, others of low
personal integrity, and the occasional "loony" who could compromise
security of the cells, members, and plans, including caches.
An initiation, consisting of a lot of work preparing cache
materials (and contributing food, time, weapons, or money to the
cache), is recommended. (The recruit must never prepare a cache
site, or know of where one is, until he becomes a primary member
of a cell.)
This commitment is enhanced by (later) attending additional meetings,
until the recruit's background and intentions are acceptable to the cell's
members.
Recruitment must be from known acquaintances only; never is
recruitment to be a goal of itself, and never is there to be any
overt recruitment (booths at fairs, newspaper and TV ads, etc.).
All recruits must request entry without prodding by cell members.
Training will consist of study of the US Constitution and relevant
Supreme Court cases; of world and US history; of economics; of
languages likely to be encountered in the region; of food
procurement and preparation; of First aid and medicine; of outdoor
skills; of building and repairing things; of electronics, physics,
& chemistry; and self defense training, including weapons training.
Topics will rotate among experts, and area experts will
give public seminars to interested parties (which cells should
publicize, and which members should attend as individuals).
A cell should strive to have a broad knowledge among its members,
even if its background tends to be homogenous.
Stoicism and silence in cell activities are of paramount importance.
Differences need to be addressed by calm reason rather than hot rhetoric.
Complete honesty is required among members; and if deception occurs,
it must be coordinated through a cell's spokesman.
(The title of "spokesman," however, is never to be conferred.
No contact regarding cell activity is to be released outside the cell
structure; if an explanation is required for some reason, a
pre arranged story and spokesman should handle it.)
Never should any cell or general activity be characterized as part
of a "group" or "movement," and never should the concept of
"membership" be discussed outside the group itself.
Silence should be the rule at meetings, during presentations, and
especially in the field. Amateur crooks are brought down by their mouths.
Green troops are killed because their noise alerted the enemy.
Do not ever give the enemy, real or figurative, the benefit of your
mouth. Strict silence is the rule, regarding cell activity, to all
on the outside of the cell. (This applies to members of other cells.
There may be infiltrators. If communications are to be made,
if notes are to be compared, this must be done in the public forums
in an innocuous way, or through cell communication channels.) Be
suspicious of any "member" who appears friendly, opinionated, or
curious about cell activities when outside his cells.
Since there is no "membership," as far as anyone outside is
concerned, there is also no "organization," there are no "leaders,"
and there is nothing to attract media attention. If a member wants
his fifteen minutes of fame, ban him forever, move the caches, and
deny that he was ever a "member'" of anything.
Since the cell officially doesn't exist, and since his contacts outside
his principal and secondary cells do not occur, his damage can be
limited. His knowledge will be limited, regardless of his tenure in
the structure.
If any member communicates with a banned (former) member, that
member will too be banned. If a cell collapses because of this,
security will only be strengthened. The cell members will strive to
join other cells, or will recruit from outside to form a
substantially new structure, which will soon be unrecognizable,
even by the recently departed member(s).
Any member who leaves due to malice or breaking the code of outside
silence should be harassed within the law, to the lull extent
available to his primary cell's remaining members (only).
This includes recovery of any personal debts, providing information
to government groups as appropriate (IRS, Social Services), or other
methods, without identifying any other members. Those who leave
under reasonable circumstances are not to be harassed.
Whatever contribution any incoming (and thus also any departing)
primary member made to a cache is considered a donation to the
cell; and the remaining primary members should immediately recover
or relocate the cache, and arrange new rendezvous points. Codes for
sensitive things should, also be changed.
Codes:
Codes are substitutions of words or expressions, or are superfluous
words in communications, or misleading or ambiguous constructions
in communications, designed to mislead or confuse anyone but the
intended receiver of information.
Codes must be used when names of members are used, if mention of
cache contents or locations are discussed or marked on maps, when
discussing the location or supremacy of rendezvous points; and if
possible, in discussing cell or inter cell activities.
Codes are especially useful in necessary FAX and e mail
communications, in telephone and radio communications, and whenever
members are in public, or may be overheard. Members should always
act as though they are being listened to; and should take precautions
against eavesdropping whenever they discuss any cell activity.
Eavesdropping covers many methods: listening to
conversations in restaurants, phone booths, bathrooms; wiretaps,
interception of telecommunications (especially portable
phones!), and such tactics as recovering someone's
garbage from home or office, and going through it. No
stranger should ever hear, or be able to lip-read, what a
member says to another member.
Crowds are no defense against eavesdropping neither are open spaces.
Sound travels hundreds of feet in and through buildings, along walls
and down ductwork; and around corners and through doors and walls.
Lip readers can do a fair job through windows, even at a distance.
Do not ever assume you are in a secure area. Use no more volume
than necessary in your communications. Make no unnecessary
communications about cell activities. Make liberal use of codes.
A note about ciphers: Aside from electronic encryption (as
performed by PGP and other software), ciphers are largely a waste
of time. CPUlY P ERSOGFKEOV WSPVI WLFPS EMCLQ may look
really "spy," but amateur ciphers can be broken by amateurs, and
pros won't even slow down for them. A cipher note is therefore a
mark of desperation. (That in itself may be a code!)
DEFENSE, WEAPONRY:
BOOBY TRAPPING:
Defense & Weaponry:
There are two keys to effective weaponry: the right tool for the
job, and the proper training for that tool. More of one quality can
make up, in part, for a lack of the other, but a proper match of
both will lead to victory (or survival!).
Cell members are expected to be proficient in appropriate weaponry.
A child may learn to use a sling or slingshot and graduate to an
air rifle. A small woman may use a .22 caliber lever action scoped
rifle to take squirrels. A warrior" may be versed in all weapons
available, or which can be expected to be purchased or captured.
(Depending on the nature of the disaster). Both manual and
ballistic weapons should be mastered. Members should be familiar
with the basics of several martial arts (tai chi, karate, judo,
boxing, kick boxing) and martial arts tools (stars, chukkas,
broomhandles), and practice when possible with other
members, trading tips and experience.
Blade weapon offense and:
defense should be taught defense from age four or so; and offense
from about age eleven) to both boys and girls. Expedient weaponry
(stone age weapons) should be improvised on all field nips and
practiced at home. firearms training should commence around age
eight, with air guns being the primary tool.
Stress proper handling:
and safety at all times, and never allow children, even for a
moment, to be unsupervised with any weapons! firearms training for
teens and adults should begin with proper cleaning and assembly,
and firing exercises should include training in rifle (scoped and
open sights), shotgun, and finally handgun, through progressively
awkward positions and attitudes, with more intense training as
progress is made.
All weapons, as far as is practical, should be
shot both left and right handed from all positions, and handguns
should be fired single and double action (if applicable) and with
one, and with both hands. Shotguns should be fired from the
shoulder and from the underarm position. Accuracy, rather than rate
of fire, is always the goal.
Every cell should ideally be graced with a reloader. All members
should learn reloading basics, and should also be taught to refurbish
primers, and to make a rudimentary gunpowder (see section)
for desperate situations.
Expedient and Special Purpose Weapons:
Expedient anti-helicopter ordnance can be made from hardwood
doweling, cable, washers, and a shotgun with one shell.
Cut a hardwood dowel (use a 5/8=94 diameter dowel
for a 12 GA shotgun) 3" long, and drill a 3/32" diameter hole
down its center. Drill a 3/32" hole the long way through a
10 24 (3/16") softened (heat it red hot, and let it cool slowly
a few times) Allen head machine screw, and tap it into a
slightly enlarged hole in one end of the dowel.
Capture a 5/8" steel washer against the head and rubber washer the
inside diameter of the bore (you can make one from an inner tube,
or from a faucet washer). Feed the 3/16=94 diameter cable
through the dowel.
Knot the end of the cable which protrudes from
the non washer end of the dowel, and pull the knot tight. Wrap a
small piece of tape around the cable right as it protrudes from the
cap screw's head, leaving al least 10 feet of cable hanging from
the washer end of the dowel. Prepare the 2 shotgun shell by
removing the shot and half the powder.
To fire: With the safety on, and with the muzzle pointed in a safe
direction, load the shell. Then, from the muzzle, drop the free end
of the cable into the barrel, followed by the dowel. Without
looking down the barrel, and keeping hands and everything else
clear, push down as far as it will easily go, but at least halfway
down the barrel. (Some practice may be required to permit the
maximum of unkinked cable to enter the barrel.)
Fire this contraption at the center of the tail rotor (preferred target)
or the center of the main rotor of the helicopter, at any altitude up
to about 300' (if directly above). The idea here is to get the
cable to tangle in the rotor, cause an imbalance, and bring down
the chopper. (This is risky, but so is being mowed down by a
gunship.) Best to do this with a borrowed shotgun, while wearing
protective clothing. The gun will likely be destroyed.
Booby Trapping:
This consists of rigging common or concealed objects with
destructive capability, so that an unsuspecting enemy may hurt
himself.
Booby traps are activated by the victim or by an outside party.
They are typically activated by mechanical means, radio, or electro
mechanical means. The more complicated the activator, the higher
the probability of failure.
Typical mechanical activators include trip wires or string, motion
sensors (even a mousetrap will do), and the like. A small animal
snare is a typical application of a mechanical activator
(which, in this case, is also the boobytrap).
Radio activators (similar to remote activators for car alarms)
allow better concealment of the booby trap, but require electrical
power.
Electro mechanical activators are common and easy to construct. A
spring loaded clothespin with contacts on both fingers, separated
by a popsicle stick which gets pulled out when the victim trips
over a string, is a good example of a simple electro mechanical
activator.
Another can be activated by a bullet, which can be fired from afar:
Two squares (12" or so) of copper or steel screen, 1/B" or smaller
mesh, are clipped (with wood clothespins) to each side of a 14"
square of light cardboard (like a file folder). Keep the screens
and wires from touching! Attach one wire to each screen. Firing a
bullet through the sandwich will close the circuit.
The detonator (first charge) can be fired directly by the activator
(as in a mousetrap setting off a shotgun shell), or by another
detonator (such as a blasting cap, either mechanical fire
activated or electrical).
Note that the detonating charge may itself be the booby trap, as in
the case of, say, a soap dispenser which contains a shotgun shell.
Often, booby traps are larger destructive devices. They differ
(from "standard" bombs in that they are deliberately tripped,
whereas a bomb, in classic terms, detonates on impact, or is fired
by a timer which cannot be set remotely, or by the victim. for
detailed information on booby traps, see the US Army Field Manual,
FM 5 31, "BOOBYTRAPS," and the Army Technical Manual, TM 31 210,
"IMPROVISED MUNITIONS HANDBOOK." Beware the "home brew"
books, as many of these contain erroneous information which can result
in a defective device, which may not detonate, or which may even kill
you. You can trust the US Army to provide good information on
building destructive devices.
Basic Anti Armor Warfare:
Tanks, armored personnel carriers, and Other armored /tracked
vehicles present grave danger to civilians. Their capabilities are
varied, but all can be counted on to move over obstacles which stop
regular traffic. Stopping these vehicles will render them less
effective (they then become semi hard gun emplacements, etc.), so
it is important to slow, or stop, armor whenever possible.
Armor is protected by infantry. Separated from protective infantry,
it is vulnerable to ground attack. Further damage can be inflicted
on it's effectiveness through "blinding it, wilt smoke and direct
covering of it's "eyes."
If a tank "buttoned up," (closed), its vision is limited, and it's
destruction, is limited to what it can throw (ranching gun bullets,
nerve gas) at you, and by it's supporting armor if a tank opens so
that the driver can see out, or so a spotter/gunner can pop from the turret
or body, snipers can attack. (Many APCs have aluminum armor, which can
sometimes be pierced by a high powered hunting rifle but you must hit
something inside to be effective!)
You can get close enough to attack a tank, molotov cocktails
(glass bottles filled with gasoline, fuel oil, and soap, and having
a flaming cloth wick are often effective, particularly if you can
get one inside, or through the engine cover. if you can attack
outside armor, a sledge hammer will damage gun barrels, flame
throwers, and much glass. There are methods of tripping up the
tracks, or even breaking them; but these vary greatly with the type
of vehicle encountered.
The best defense against armor is to stop it, blind it, and
separate it from other armor and especially infantry. Contents can
then be roasted. Otherwise, slay clear, if possible! The US Army
has a good manual on tactics, roadblocks, etc., FM 23 3, "TACTICS,
TECHNIQUES, and CONCEPT S OF ANTIARMOR WARFARE."
Good Advice From a Master (next page):
.STANDING ORDERS, ROGERS=92 RANGERS (1759)
from sh 21-76 US Army ranger handbook
1. Don't forget nothing.
2. have your musket clean as a whistle, hatchet scoured, sixty
rounds powder and ball and be ready to march at a minutes warning.
3. When you're on the march act the way you would if you was
sneaking up on a deer see the enemy first.
4. tell the truth about what you see and what you do. There is an
army depending on us for correct information You can lie all you
please when you tell other folks about the rangers, but don't never
tell a lie to a Ranger or officer
5. Don't never take a chance you don't have to.
6. When you're on the march, we march single file far enough apart
so one shot can't go through two men. l
7. If we strike swamp or soft ground we spread out abreast so it is
hard to track us.
8. When we march, we keep moving till dark, so as to give the enemy
the least possible chance at us. I
9. When we camp, half the party stays awake while The other half sleeps.
10. If we take prisoners we keep them separate till we have we have
enough time to examine them so they can't cook up a story between 'em,
11. Don't ever march home the same way, take a different route so
you won't be ambushed.
12. No matter whether we travel in big parties or little ones each
party has to keep a scout twenty yards ahead on each flank
and twenty yards in the rear, so that the main party can't be
surprised and wiped out.
13. Every night you'll be told where to meet if surrounded by a
superior force.
14. Don't sit down to eat without posting sentries.
15. Don't sleep beyond dawn. Dawn's when the French and Indians
attack.
16. Don't cross a river by a regular ford.
17. If somebody's trailing you, make a circle, come back onto your
tracks, and ambush the folks that aim to ambush you.
18. Don't stand up when the enemy's coming against you. Kneel
down, lie down, hide behind a tree.
19. Let the enemy come till he's almost close enough to touch. Then
let him have it and jump out and finish him up with your hatchet.
GOOD TO GO KIT:
(Things you should always have within your reach, for any emergency
which might arise,) GI Canteen Cup (steel is better then aluminum)
Knife (decent sheath knife 5=94 blade)
Gold/Silver "space blanket." (carry 2; they're fragile!)
Plastic sheet, 6=92 x 10=92 at least 4 mil thick
Matches (waterproof) and ever light birthday candles
Alternate fire starter (magnesium, steel wool, lighter)
Cold weather electricians tape (Scotch 33=94 or 44=94)
Saw (folding buck,pack saw)
50=92 minimum of parachute cord.
Signal mirror (GI type with aiming device)
Whistle (Acme Dog training recommended)
Dental floss Trowel fishhooks
Poncho Toilet Paper Hat
Flashlight Pencil Compass
First Aid kit Glasses, dentures Soap
Sunblock Maps Socks
Water and purification tablets
Snack (jar of peanuts, pemmican, etc.)
...and anything you can grab from the list below.
If you have your own car, it should contain:
Sleeping bag / Tent / Ax
Shovel or entrenching tool / Bucket
100' of 3/8" or larger rope (nylon)
Mattress pad / Heavy coat
Gloves / mittens
Insect repellent
Cheesecloth (first aid and insect screen)
Multi tool (Leatherman's, Gerber, Swiss Army knife, etc.)
FIRST AID KIT:
(Determine the things you need, and things you can carry.
Experts think everything here is important.)
gauze compresses adhesive bandages
painkillers ace bandages
sunscreen & sunburn ointment Vaseline antibiotics, anti diarrhea!
toothpaste, mouthwash bicarbonate of soda eyewash
butterfly bandages and super glue:
needles and thread (unwaxed, non flavored dental floss
works well, and serves other purposes)
- disinfectants (hydrogen peroxide, alcoholl, iodine)
salve (burn cream, antiseptic ointment)
tweezers, nail clippers and file, small scissors, razor blade
gauze and self adhesive bandages and tape.
painkillers (aspirin, Percodan, and topical anesthetics)
(lidocaine, novocaine, morphine)
flea shampoo, collars, and powder
maintenance prescription drugs (insulin, Tagamet)
first aid manual Note: Veterinarians are also good sources of
equivalent drugs. (Be sure to understand equivalent doses)
The Red Cross First Aid Textbook (1945, page 244) suggests:
1 inch compresses on adhesive in individual packages
Sterile gauze squares about 3" x 3" in individual packages
Assorted sterile bandage compresses in individual packages
Triangular bandages
Sterile gauze in individual packages of about 1 sq. yard
Roll of 1/2 inch adhesive tape
Burn ointment
Aromatic spirits of ammonia
Inelastic tourniquet
Scissors
3 inch' splinter forceps
Paper cups
1 inch and 2 inch roller bandages
Wire or thin board splints
Castor oil or mineral oil for use in eyes this should be
sterile; may be obtained in small tubes
"Good luck, my friends!" Eduardo
(
geocities.com/mark_l_anderson)