Tailors and Seamstresses of Marrach
An Introduction to the Origins of Dyes used in Castle Marrach
by Acolyte Isaria
INTRODUCTION
The way in which colorants and pigments are used in dyeing is a complicated, and time-consuming process. This text will introduce you to these pigments and mordents, as well as describe the colors currently available for those skilled in Dyer, hopefully also encouraging students of the Clothing Arts, to continue their studies. Also, this text will stress the rarity of some pigments, and thusly explain why some colors are reserved for those of high rank and favor.
“The quality of the Dye increases the cost of the Cloth, ten-fold.”-Dyecrafter of the Inner Bailey.
BASIC TERMS AND INFORMATION
Over sixty dye and mordent formulae are known to dyers within the Castle. These dyes are prepared by the specialized servants of the Inner Bailey, (Known as Dyecrafters), who were the main sources of information for this text. It is through their effort and expertise that we have such an abundance of selection to choose from. The basic terms used by Dyecrafters are listed below.
Colorants: Color removed from one place, and applied to another. This is a basic term, used generically to refer to our dyes.
Pigments: Pure color in powder form.
Dyes: Organic, (plant or animal), extracts used to apply color to organic substances. [Such as garments, footwear, or stationary.]
Mordents: Substances either mixed with dyes, or applied to garments, as a fixative. Mordents are used to increase vividness of color, as well as life of color. [Resistance to fading.]
COLOR DESCRIPTIONS
Colors used by our Dyers are grouped into eight main tones, or families: Whites, Reds, Purples, Yellows, Browns, Greens, Blacks, and Blues. Within these tones, countless colors are possible. Dyecrafters are constantly working to provide new color formulae. Listed below are the current color possibilities, and their basic descriptions. Some colors are self-explanatory.
Novice colors
-Brown
-Tan: pale yellow/brown
-Beige: grayish yellow
-Natural: pale yellow/white
-Ochre: reddish yellow
-Grey
Apprentice colors
-Red-Russet: reddish brown
-Ivory: pale white
-White
-Sage: gray/green
-Mustard: pungent yellow
-Auburn: reddish brown
Senior Apprentice colors
-Ebony: shade of black, bluish
-Sable: gray or brownish black
-Saffron: deep orange
-Green
-Sepia: gray brown, to dark olive brown
>
-Ecru: raw beige-ish color
-Pumpkin: yellowish orange
Fellowcraft colors
-Black
-Orange
-Pink
-Cream: very pale yellow
-Blue
-Purple
-Burgundy: reddish purple
Journeyman colors
-Crimson: deep purple red
-Apricot: moderate orange
-Lemon: light yellow
-Puce: dark red
-Lime: light green
-Plum: dark reddish purple
Artisan colors
-Amber: dark orange yellow
-Canary: light, vivid yellow
-Scarlet: bright red
-Cinnamon: light yellow brown
-Lavender: pale purple
-Rose: pale red/pink
-Forest: dark green
Senior Artisan colors
-Teal: dark green blue
-Cyan: greenish blue
-Mauve: moderate purple
-Violet: reddish blue
-Chartreuse: brilliant yellow green
-Vermillion: deep reddish orange
Master colors
-Fuscia: vivid reddish purple
-Lilac: moderate purple
-Indigo: deep reddish blue
-Magenta: deep purple red
-Orchid: light, pale purple
Master Adept colors
-Cobalt: lustrous, metallic blue
-Alabaster: translucent creamy white
-Azure: pure, deep blue
-Raven: shiny greenish black
-Emerald: bright, rich green
Grand Master color
-Cerulean: dark sky blue
GENERAL PROCESS INFORMATION
-Organic materials used for dyeing are alsoo found in the pharmaceutical area in the Castle, as many plants also have medicinal purposes.
-These organic substances are often maceratted, and/or, boiled, to produce the raw pigments. Mordents are then used to combine pigment to garments, by boiling, and saturation.
-Lower quality clothing is often dyed stricctly with vegetable dyes, which do not produce bright or rich tones. Nor do the colors stay true for extended periods of time. Vegetable dyes are less costly, and often a quicker way to produce color.
-Richer, darker colors require a high conceentration of the expensive ingredients. This increases the time that dyes are required to absorb properly into a garment, as well as the cost of ingredients. Thus, high favor garments can take much time, effort, and cost to produce.
BASIC COLOR TONE INGREDIENTS
-Browns: Alder, Birch, and Onionskins.
-Blacks: Blackberry leaves, Lime, Elder. [No formula yields a perfect black.]
-Blues: Lapis Lazuli stones, Woad, Indigo.
-Greens: Verdigris, Elderberry, Foxglove, Copper resin.
-Purples: Deadly Nightshade, Whortleberry, Mussel shells, Various berries.
-Reds: Madder plants [roots and stems], Cinnabar, Limewater, Safflower, Hematite.
-Yellows: Barberries, Orpiment, Poplar, Weld, Onionskins, Heather.
-Whites: Ammonia, Chalk, Lapis [to counter natural yellow tones produced by ammonia.]
CONCLUSION
This text is meant as in introduction to the creation of dyes made in Castle Marrach. It also outlines the effort and patience that one must have to work in preparing pigment formulae ingredients. Most of the ingredients are mysteriously supplied to the Dyecrafters. However, the work to prepare them must still be completed. We urge anyone who is skilled in the Dyer Craft to take into account all of the efforts and costs, not to mention the capitulary laws, when dyeing garments. Only with good judgment, and fine skills, and patience, can one hope to reach the top tiers of this artful skill.
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