Tailors and Seamstresses of Marrach
Fitting Luxury Garments
by Acolyte Isaria
INTRODUCTION
The following handbook is a guide for the basic fits involved with the Luxury garments found in the Inner Bailey. Helpful guidelines, as well as suggestions, and tips are included. Beginning tailors will find that using this handbook will aid them; in creating clothing that is more professionally tailored, as well as alerting them to the fine details of the skill of Tailoring.
Table of Contents:
1) Introduction
2) Luxury Garments
3) Capes
4) Chemise
5) Circlets
6) Doublets
7) Gowns-sleeveless
8) Gowns-long sleeved
9) Hose
10) Overdresses
11) Overvests/ Jerkins
12) Robes
13) Snoods/ Veils
14) Trunkhose
15) Tunics
16) Conclusion/ Notes
Page 2: LUXERY GARMENTS
The clothing used for those of higher rank, (Including Honored Guests, and all residents of the Inner Bailey,) should be tailored with care, and precision. Each garment is a gift of Her Majesty, and the proper time and concentration should be used while altering them.
Listed on each page, is a short description of each garment, along with the required measurements, and suggestions for fitting. The descriptions will include: capes, chemise, circlets, doublets, gowns, (both sleeveless, and long-sleeved,) hose, overdresses, overvests and jerkins, pants, snoods and veils, trunkhose, and tunics. As more items are developed by the Royal Seamstresses, additional volumes of this book will be produced.
Page 3: CAPES
A sleeveless outer garment, which fits closely at the neck and hangs loosely over the shoulders. Capes in the castle are typically hoodless and ankle-length, and are considered more formal than cloaks.
-Measurements needed: neck, shoulders, nape of neck to ankle.
-Suggestions for possible fits: Handsome, orr Stylish
-Tips: remember to use fabrics that drape weell!
Page 4: CHEMISE
A women's long-sleeved undergarment, hanging straight and unfitted from the shoulders to the ankles. Sometimes called a "shift." Should be worn under women’s clothing, at all times.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, height.
-Suggestions for possible fits: Loose, or addequate
-Tips: Light, and flowing material should bee used.
Page 5: CIRCLETS
A ring or band of firm cloth, metal, or jewels, which is worn upon a woman's head, primarily to hold the hair or a veil in place. Customarily, circlets are worn primarily by female courtiers, though they are also sometimes worn on special occasions by Outer Bailey women.
-Measurements: circumference of head.
-Suggestions for fitting: Tasteful, or Fine..
-Tips: Match the material of the gown, to thhe circlet. Or, use fine jewelry, to adorn them.
Page 6: DOUBLETS
A man's close-fitting coat or vest, fastening up the front, usually with a collar. Some are long-sleeved, while others are sleeveless (and worn over a shirt). Long-sleeved doublets are sometimes worn beneath a fancy jerkin or overvest.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, upper arms, shoulder to wrist (arm slightly bent), chest, waist, nape of neck, to waist.
-Suggestions for fitting: Handsome, or Dashiing
-Tips: Doublets can be made out of a varietyy of fabrics, but often look most handsome when a firm fabric is used, such as suede, and serge.
Page 7: GOWNS: SLEEVELESS
A women's garment traditionally fitted close to the upper part of the body, with flowing skirts extending to the ankles or floor. The sleeveless variety should not be worn with an overdress, and should be worn with a chemise, as it will be visible.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, chest, waistt, hips, nape of neck to waist, waist to ankles.
-Suggestions for fitting: Classical, or Gracceful.
-Tips: Sleeveless gowns are considered very fashionable, by the Inner Bailey. Fabrics should drape well.
Page 8: GOWNS: LONG-SLEEVED
A women's garment traditionally fitted close to the upper part of the body, with flowing skirts extending to the ankles or floor. The long-sleeved variety is often worn with an overdress, at formal occasions.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, upper and loower arms, wrists, chest, waist, hips, nape of neck to waist, waist to ankles.
-Suggestions for fitting: Modest, or Tastefuul.
-Tips: Gowns can be dressed up, or dressed ddown, depending on fabrics used.
Page 9: HOSE
A close-fitting article of clothing for the legs and loins, worn almost exclusively at Court. Hose are worn most usually with a doublet (sometimes accompanied by trunkhose), but wearing hose beneath a tunic is also sometimes fashionable.
-Measurements: waist, hips, inseam, thighs, calves, ankles.
-Suggestions for fitting: Tight, or Revealinng.
-Tips: Hose should be made of light, or streetchy materials, such as velvet, or cotton, depending on rank.
Page 10: OVERDRESSES
A sleeveless dress, worn over a gown or fine chemise. Considered very formal.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, chest, waistt, hips, arm length, upper and lower arm, waist to floor, nape of neck to waist.
-Suggestions for fitting: Trim, or Beautifull.
-Tips: The overdress can be the gem of a serra's wardrobe. Fancy fabrics are often coveted for this garment.
Page 11: OVERVESTS/ JERKINS
A collarless, sleeveless, close-fitting, hip-length jacket (or long vest), usually laced in the front. Leather jerkins are usually utilitarian, being worn for warmth or protection, and are customarily worn with pants and a shirt. Fancy jerkins or overvests -- often worn over doublets -- are made of more luxuriant fabrics, and are customarily worn only by men at Her Majesty's Court.
-Measurements: neck, chest, shoulders, waistt, hips, nape of neck to waist.
-Suggestions for fitting: Conservative, or CCunning.
Page 12: ROBES
A long, flowing outer garment, customarily worn by scholars over normal clothing for ceremonial events. Robes are relatively rare and never fashionable, being more an expression of occupation than of fashion.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, chest, nape of neck to floor, shoulders to wrists.
-Suggestions for fitting: Modest, or Immacullate.
Page 13: SNOODS/ VEILS
A net or fabric bag worn upon the back of a woman's head to keep the hair in place. Snoods are usually worn only with fine gowns, as they are considered quite formal. Veils are customarily worn with circlets to hold them in place, and are a women’s garment consisting of a piece of thin, light fabric, worn over the head, without obstructing the face.
-Measurements: head circumference.
-Suggestions for fitting: Attractive, or Graaceful.
-Tips: The best material for veils is a finee silk, and snoods can match the gown.
Page 14: TRUNKHOSE
Short, full breeches, reaching about halfway down the thigh. Trunkhose are also sometimes worn with tall boots, which attach to them with a fine lace.
-Measurements: waist, thigh, knee, hips.
>
-Suggestions for fitting: Handsome, or Jauntty.
-Tips: Trunkhose should be worn with hose beeneath them.
Page 15: TUNICS
A simple slip-on garment worn on the upper body. Usually long-sleeved and knee-length, and sometimes worn belted at the waist. Fancy tunics are sometimes sleeveless to show the sleeves of a fine undertunic worn beneath.
-Measurements: neck, shoulders, chest, waistt, nape of neck to waist, hips.
-Suggestions for fitting: Flattering, or Connservative.
-Tips: Tunics can be very formal, and fine, if the right fabrics are used. They are considered mostly at masculine garment.
Page 16: CONCLUSION/ NOTES
Each seamstress and tailor must use their own good judgment for fittings. The suggestions are just that: suggestions. Each garments should be tailored, not only to look it’s best, but also to the specific guests requirements. The creativity of the tailor should also be put to good use. Indeed, our art of cloth should stretch our minds, and imaginations, to experiment with new designs.
As more garments are developed, additions of this book will be written. If there are any mistakes, or questions regarding this volume, please bring it to the attention of the author.
Happy sewing!
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