-Place plain garment upon wearer, and dart ribcage area to fit more trimly.
-Remove garment from wearer, and finish darrts with a few well placed stitches.
-Finish by cutting sharp angles on neck-linnes and shoulders.
*NOTE: nothing but firm materials such as wool, brocade and leather, etc..should be used for doublets and bodices with this fit.
Using this fit for pants can actually lead to a rather risque’ look. The most important areas to focus on are the fit in the thighs, and the calves. A new technique of small slits on the side of the calf can add style to the garment.
-Take complete measurements of lower body, below torso.
-Cut out basic shape of pants garment.
-Make cut at ankles, hands width apart, anggling up to a point.
-Be sure to fit thigh and calf area trimly..
*NOTE: this fit can be done without flare at ankles. Ankle flare should ~not~ be used for those that practice the sword, as the flowing material may trip them.
This undergarment is usually free-flowing, as well as concealed underneath other garments, so only slight alteration is suggested.
-Take complete body measurements, includingg height.
-Cut out basic chemise garment.
-Manipulating scissors, cut bottom edge of chemise into a repeating, rounded edge. This is called scalloping.
*NOTE: This hem will most likely not be seen. The amount of work put into this garment may not be truly appreciated, so tailor has option of adding same scalloped edge to wrists of chemise. On a long-sleeved chemise, underneath a sleeveless gown, this edge will be very flattering.
Adding darts to waist and hip area of skirt, along with scalloped edge will give this garment a very sharp look.
-Take measurements from waist down.
-Dart waist and hip area for trim fit of weearer.
-Scallop bottom edge of skirt, or try to allter edge with a different cut. The key is to be creative with your scissors.
*NOTE: Slits may also be cut into the side hems of skirts, to add flare. These slits must go no higher then two hands, as to protect modesty of the wearer.
By combining scalloping and darts that we have already seen, as well as interesting necklines, this garment can be both flattering and creatively designed.
-Take full body measurements.
-Cut out basic dress garment, leaving extraa room in skirts to add fullness.
-Use scissors to create interesting edges aat wrists and bottom edge. (Scalloping, diamond shapes, points, etc.)
-Using sharp angles, drop neckline a half hhand, and finish edges.
*NOTE: Be very cautious how far down you drop neckline on some denizens…..
Edging and creative use of scissors is behind a feisty fit in cloaks. The other manipulation come with the shaping of the hood on the cloak, and the edging of the collar on the cape.
-Take upper torso measurements, including hheight.
-Cut out basic garments, according to measuurements.
-On cloaks: trim edges creatively at bottomm hem and front.
-On cloaks: Shape hood with long tip at bacck of head, similar to liripipe hood.
-On capes: trim edges at bottom hem and froont as you desire.
-On capes: shape collar with dramatic anglees towards front of chest. Drop the clasp lower then expected, or scallop edge.
*NOTE: The discretion of how much feistiness in these garments is up to the tailor.
Girdles, being relatively simple items, are most feisty, when the creative edging on dresses and gowns is matched on the hems of the girdle.
-Take waist and height measurements.
-Cut basic shape of garment.
-Shape edges of entire girdle with scissorss to match the edging of gown or dress. If there is no item to match, then get as creative as you’d like.
*NOTE: Small shapes may also be cut ~out~ of the girdle, so that the gown or dress underneath may be shown.
Vests and Overvests differ in fitting mainly because one can be more daring with vests. Vests are normally only worn by those in the Outer Bailey, where fashion is not so strictly guarded. Those in the Inner Bailey, who wear Overvests to formal occasions will wish to not take as many creative chances with their garments.
-Take complete upper torso measurements.
*NOTE: at the edge of the shoulders, on the overvest, making finger-length slits towards the neckline can also add a touch of flare.
Footgear must first be completely serviceable, and then may have creativity added. It is important that with footwear, the item still fits the foot perfectly, and that the feisty fit does not get in the way of use. I suggest that feisty footwear only be created for special occasions.
-Take appropriate measurements.
*NOTE: I suggest practice with this fit, before attempting footwear.
Gloves for both men and women can be altered with this fit in a most attractive way. Women’s gloves should be edged, and shapes may be cut out of the back of the hand. Men’s gloves should also have creative edging, as well as interesting buttons added to them. Gloves that serve a function, other then style, should be fitted gently.
-Take measurements of wearer’s hands and wrrists.
*NOTE: Adding embroidery to gloves is also appropriate for this fit.
Hose, being form-fitting, can be altered with this fit by cutting small shapes out of the hose, and placing different colored hose beneath. Trunkhose can be creatively trimmed at the thighs, as well as paneled in different shapes to create interest.
-Take lower body measurements.
-*NOTE: Those with higher rank may request more tame alteration to such items, so be sure to consult with wearer before completing this fit.
Feisty, as a fit, should not be used lightly. It’s sharp angles, and interesting collars etcettera, will have an impact upon those that view the garments. One with great status in the Inner Bailey may wish to wear such, without fear of losing rank and favor because of it. And, someone of low rank in the Outer Bailey may have little to lose by wearing items that are slightly risque’. Ultimately, it is up to the designer and wearer to agree upon what is most proper. Tailors, given the opportunity to use these fitting methods, should try to be as creative as possible, while still remaining within the realm of good taste.
Further new fits will be forthcoming, and Happy Sewing! - Acolyte Isaria
Return to MAIN page.
-On vests: lower collar slightly (half handd).
-On vests: angle neckline into front of vesst with sharp angles.
-On vests: finish hems with shaping.
-On overvests: lower collar slightly (half hand)
-On overvests: angle neckline into front off overvest with sharp angles.
-On overvests: finish hems with shaping, beeing careful not to draw too much attention away from collar.
-Cut out basic garment shape.
-Being careful not to affect actual shape oof garment, trim edges with scissors into creative shapes.
-On slippers: Small shapes may be cut out oof slippers on top of foot. They may be no larger then half a finger in size, as anything larger will alter natural stretch of slipper.
-On boots: Adding embroidery, or metalwork,, such as buckles, will also give boots a feisty look.
-Cut out basic garment shape.
-Edge wrists with scissors. (Scallop, diamoonds, etc.)
-Add buttons or gems to gloves for special occasions.
-Cut out small shapes in women’s gloves forr effect.
-Cut out basic garment shapes.
-On hose: Cut out small shapes variously thhroughout garment. Be cautious not to cut out anything larger then half a finger, as the stretch of the material will warp the shape.
-On hose: edge waist with scissors.
-On trunkhose: matching edges, cut out paneels of trunkhose in different geometric shapes. Then stitch together.
-On trunkhose: with scissors, edge hem at tthigh creatively.
