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~Introduction~
The following book includes a collection of words and phrases that can often be heard in relation to tailoring. Knowing and understanding these words can help one to better understand the art of clothesmaking itself and the many intricasies that is involved with it.
(ooc- a sketch of a small spool of white thread and a silverplated needle is drawn on this page)
Applique- this term refers to attaching one piece of fabric to another in a decorative manner.
Arbol - the main body/pattern piece of the garment.
Armscye- a different term for armhole.
(ooc- a sketch of a brown worsted vest is drawn on this page with a small arrow pointing to the armhole. The caption for the picture is 'The Armscye of a Vest.'
Bias- the grain of woven fabric that is at a 45 degree angle to the selvages.
Baxo- hem or bottom of garment.
(ooc- a sketch of an olive broadcloth dress is drawn on this page. A small arrow is pointing to the hem of the skirt. The caption for the picture is 'Baxo is another term for the hem or bottom part of a garment.'
Bias Tape- fabric strips which are cut from the bias of the fabric. They are usually folded on two edges and sometimes folded again for edging.
Bodies- period term for the bodice of a woman's gown.
Bombast- cotton wool. Used to stuff rolls and pad doublets.
(ooc- a blue velveteen gown is drawn on this page. A small arrow is pointing to the carefully drawn bodice of the garment. The caption for the picture is 'The bodies of a gown is another phrase to describe its bodice.
Butt- to bring two edges of fabric together so that they touch.
Buttons- used as decoration as well as fastening.
Cockle- a defect in fabrics that results in bumpiness or puckering in the finished project.
(ooc- a sketch of a small brass button is drawn on this page. The caption for the picture is 'A brass button')
Dart- a dart is a 'V' shaped, stitched fold starting at a certain width at one end and tapering to a point at the other end. A dart creates a curve in the fabric and allows the fabric to conform to the shape of the body. The darts in a garment are what make the garment fit.
Down Right- fabric term meaning to 'run the length of the body'.
(ooc- a sketch of a brown homespun cloak is drawn on this page. The caption for this picture is 'This cloack can be describe as Down Right, because its length is equal to the person's height from head to toe.')
Facing- a piece of fabric that is used to conceal the raw edge of the garment and is usually turned to the inside of the garment after being applied.
Foreparte- the front of a piece of clothing.
Guard- a strip of material usually used as a reinforcement on the edges of garments to prevent wear. Eventually became ornamental.
(ooc- the front of a green linen tunic is drawn on this page. The caption for this picture is 'The front of a garment is also called the foreparte.')
Hem- to bottom edge of fabric which is sewn to hide frayed edges.
Hem stitch- used to hem and worked in such a way as to be almost invisible from the front.
Hooks & Eyes- fastenings made of steel wire and sewn to the inside of bodices and doublets.
(ooc- a sketch of a black skirt is drawn on this page. A small arrow is pointing to the hem of the skirt. The caption for this picture is 'A skirt's hem.')
Inkle- a linen tape of different qualities and widths. It was used for apron strings, girdles, bindings, and embroidery.
Lacing hole- the eylet or grommet (usually in a series) used to pass lacing through to secure one portion of the garment to another.
(ooc- a close up view of a shirt is drawn on this page. The laces are drawn in detail and an arrow is pointing to the hole through with the laces are drawn. The caption for this picture is 'A lacing hole')
Nap- there are a few fabrics that have a direction to the surface texture and this is called the nap. These fabrics will change the way they look depending on which way you hold them.
Notch- a small cut into the seam allowance which will allow fabric to bend at curves and corners.
(ooc- a piece of flannel fabric is drawn on this page and the nap of the fabric, the direction of the threads, is sketched in detail. The caption of the picture is 'The nap of piece of flannel')
Panes- long strips of material, usually made into sleeves, and caught together at intervals so that the under garment or lining shows through. Pinked- small cuts on the surface of a fabric, giving a decorative pattern.
(ooc- the sleeve of a gown is drawn on this page, but it is different from what is normally seen. The sleeve is not a continuous piece of fabric put two pieces, sewn together on the underside, but not on the top side. Instead on the top side the sleeves are tied together at intervels of three inches with small laces. This allows the chemise to be seen through the holes and puffed outwards. A small arrow points to the fabric for the sleeve. The caption for this picture is 'Two panes of fabric make up this sleeve.')
Pin Tucks- narrow rows of stitching that create a raised ridge of fabric.
Prospelo- wrong side of fabric.
(ooc- a piece of velvet is drawn on this page with one corner folded back. An arrow is pointing to this corner and the caption reads 'The underside of this piece of velvet is also called the prospelo.
Quilted- refers to a 'sandwich' of material surrounding a stuffing which is then tacked together at various intervals to prevent the stuffing from moving. Razed- to scratch satin with a sharp knife into patterns.
Seam Allowance- this refers to the amount of fabric between the cut edge and the seam. Unless otherwise specified, most garment patterns require a 5/8 inch seam throughout the garment.
(ooc- a sketch of a panel of a quilt in drawn on this page. First you see the top layer of fabric folded back and then a layer of padding folded back revealing a bottom layer of fabric. The caption reads 'Quilting involves sewing two pieces of fabric together with padding in between them.')
Selvage- the lengthwise finished edge on each side of the fabric.
Sizing- measurements of body used as guide for cutting garments to fit a variety of body types.
Tacked- stitching to keep something in place.
(ooc- a small piece of blue fabric is drawn on this page with a small rose applique tacked to its service. The caption reads 'Tacking this rose applique to the fabric before sewing it on helps to keep the fabric in place.')
Toile- a pattern, usually made out of a medium weight material, which is then sewn together and fit onto the person. Fittings to the person are then taken. The toile is then taken apart and used to make an actual pattern for use.
Top Stitch- a row of stitching, visible on the finished product. Can be functional or decorative.
(ooc- a person is drawn on this page wearing ratty bits of fabric that look to be held together with loose threads. A seamstress is standing beside the person adjusting the tightness of the panels of fabric and taking measurements. A small arrow is pointing to the pieces of fabric. The caption reads 'The toile of an outift is used in designing a garment. It is fitted on a person and then taken apart and used as a template to cut the fabric with.;)
Apprentice Mena
Apprentice to Mistress Ermengarde
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