Tailors of Marrach - Ermengarde's Tailor Book of Luxury Fabrics

Mistress Ermengarde's Book of Luxury Fabrics

LUXURY FABRICS:
Cloth for Formal Wear

CONTENTS 2. The Responsibility of Tailors and Seamstresses
3. Fabric Appropriate for Specific Garments
4. Fabric Appropriate for Specific Guests
5. Brocade
6. Challis
7. Cheviot and Serge
8. Fur
9. Lace
10. Lambskin
11. Lawn
12. Leathers (including Suede and Calfskin)
13. Silks (including Damask, Samite, and Satin)
14. Tweed
15. Velvet, Velveteen, and Velour
16. Specialty Materials

The Responsibility of Tailors and Seamstresses

Tailors and Seamstresses must be ever aware not only of which fabrics they are and are not permitted to use, but also two other factors:

- which fabrics are appropriate for which GARMENTS
- which fabrics are appropriate for which GUESTS

The information in this book (along with its companion volume, BASIC FABRICS: Cloth for Common Wear) should guide you, along with your own good judgment, in choosing appropriate fabrics for the garments you create.

Fabric Appropriate for Specific Garments

Each fabric has its own characteristics which cause it to be more appropriate for some uses than for others.

For example, some fabrics are relatively stiff, and would not be well-suited to a garment which should drape. Others are quite thin and delicate, and would be inappropriate for a garment which should provide warmth or protection. A cloak made of lawn would be as inappropriate as a chemise made of tweed.

The responsible Tailor and Seamstress select fabrics that suit both the fit and useage of the garments they create.

Fabric Appropriate for Specific Guests

Each person in society has their own station, and their clothing should reflect that station. It is the Tailor and Seamstress's responsibility to clothe folk appropriately, based on their rank, title, and favor.

The chemise given to a common sera of no significant favor or rank should not be made of the same fabric as the chemise given to a Lady of Her Majesty's High Court. It would be most inappropriate for the humblest Outer Bailey resident to be clothed like unto Her Majesty Queen Vivienne.

The responsible Tailor and Seamstress select fabrics appropriate to the station of the intended wearer.

BROCADE

The term "brocade" when used alone generally refers to brocaded broadcloth -- broadcloth which has been richly wrought or "flowered" with a raised pattern -- though silk or velvet too is sometimes brocaded for the most luxuriant garments.

GARMENTS: Gowns, overdresses, doublets, fine decorative capes, bodices, women's pants.

GUESTS: Brocaded broadcloth is customarily used in garments for courtiers of low to middle rank. Brocaded silk or velvet would be appropriately used only for courtiers of high rank or favor.

SKILL LEVEL: Brocaded broadcloth is available to all who have achieved Fellowcraft or higher in Tailoring.

SEE ALSO: In the companion volume: Broadcloth, Wool.

CHALLIS

A fine silk and worsted fabric, very pliable and without gloss, challis drapes beautifully.

GARMENTS: Challis is customarily used for fine chemises, fine gowns and delicate overdresses.

GUESTS: Due to the silk content, challis is controlled by the sumptuary laws and may only be legally worn by members of the Court. Challis is customarily reserved for those of knightly rank or higher.

SKILL LEVEL: Challis is available to all who have achieved Mastery in Tailoring.

SEE ALSO: In this volume: Silk. In the companion volume: Worsted.

CHEVIOT and SERGE

These twilled, crisply-textured, durable fabrics are firmly and compactly woven of wool fibers. Cheviot is somewhat heavier and more roughly napped than serge.

GARMENTS: Pants, bodices, tunics, doublets, trunkhose, vests, cloaks, capes, overdresses, skirts, hats, and caps.

GUESTS: Cheviot is used primarily in clothing for courtiers of low rank. Serge is worn throughout the Court, though it is usually reserved for those of knightly rank or higher.

SKILL LEVEL: Cheviot is available to all who have achieved Artisanship or higher in Tailoring, while Serge is available only to those who have Senior Artisanship.

SEE ALSO: In the companion volume: Wool.

FUR

The dressed pelt of an animal with the soft hair retained, fur is customarily used primarily as a decorative trim on garments made of other luxuriant fabrics, but is also occasionally used to create stunning outerwear. Fine furs are somewhat difficult to work with, but can yield stunning results.

GARMENTS: Cloaks, capes, overvests, mittens.

GUESTS: Ordinary furs are customarily used in clothings for courtiers of various ranks, but -- as described in the sumptuary laws -- fine furs are legally reserved for those of noble blood.

SKILL LEVEL: Fur is available to all who have achieved Journeyman or higher in Tailoring.