COOKING AND RECIPES
- PANAMA -
Below are the recipes I collected while in Panama
Brazilian Cookup
Recipes
Chimichuri Dipping Sauce
and Banana Bread with
Coconut Custard
Banana Puddin’
Home-style Banana Cake
Guisadas
Johnnycakes
Francisco and Joska's Pizza Sauce
Why are there so many recipes with banana in them?
Bananas
(and coconuts) are often the only crops that are actually grown on many
Caribbean islands. Thus they are cheap and plentiful and
feature
strongly in Caribbean cuisine. What's more they
have some
ripsnorter recipes as you will find out if you make any of the recipes
below......and also because I love bananas!
top
Daniel and Joey’s
Brazilian Cookup
Below are two great recipes from the fantastic evening of cooking at
Mondu Taitu Hostal in Bocas del Toro Archipelago, Panama. If you want to read more about that great evening visit my
blog The first recipe is a
savory one from Daniel and followed by two sweet ones from Joey (because
he’s so
sweet).
Daniel’s
Chimichuri Sauce
Recipe from Daniel Smetana
All I know about Chimichuri sauce is that tit is a parsley and garlic
based Argentinean dipping sauce that is used to accompany
meats.
It is really good and I recon it would also go really well on toast or
with roast vegetables. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of
it so if you want to see what Chimichuri looks like, you will have to
watch "
Daniel and Joey's Brazilian Cookup", the cookumentary I made about the fantastic night of cooking at Mondu Taitu in which Daniel prepared this recipe.
What you need
- 2 cups of
finely chopped parsley
- 8 cloves
of garlic chopped finely
- ½
cup of olive oil
- ¾
cup of red wine vinegar
- Juice of
half a lime
- A pinch
of crushed red pepper flakes
- Salt and
pepper to taste
Method
This is a really
simple one!
Simply mix everything together in bowl and leave it to sit for an hour
or so the flavors can mature.
This is Daniel, the recipe's creator
Joey’s Banana Bread
with Coconut Custard
Recipe from Joey Charles
Joey’s banana bread turned out to be one of the highlights of
the
Brazilian Cookup evening and was something he pretty much invented on
the spot with the help of a quick search of the Internet for
inspiration and proportions of ingredients. Just when
everyone
thought they were full, the sight of this desert made everyone realize
they actually still had a little room! (that’s one of the
reasons
why I advocate for eating desert before the main course – you
are
never faced with the dilemma of “will I stay comfortably full
and
say no to a yummy desert I would really like to eat”, or,
“will I stuff it in anyway and gorge myself to the point of
almost hemorrhaging”).
Both the banana bread and the custard are simple to prepare and are
made from ingredients, the majority of which you probably already have
in your pantry. The Banana Bread is great served warm with
either
hot or chilled custard.
Banana Cake
What you need
- 1 cup of
sugar
- ½
cup of butter
- 2 eggs
- 1
teaspoon of baking soda
- 3
tablespoons of hot water
- 2 cups of
flour
- ¼
teaspoon of salt
- 5 large
and very ripe bananas
- Optional
- 1 teaspoon of
ground cardamom (this is my suggestion if you want to spice things up a
little. Banana, coconut and cardamom go great together)
Method
Preheat the oven to
350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Place the sugar,
butter and eggs
in a bowl and mix thoroughly until the sugar almost dissolves
(a
food processor or electric mixer is ideal for this). Next,
dissolve the baking soda in the water and mix this in as
well.
Now, while the mixture is mixing, sift in the flour, salt and cardamom
(if you are using it). Finally, peel and smash up the bananas, add them
to the batter and mix well until everything forms a nice smooth
consistency. NOTE: If you like your banana bread
with big
chunks of banana in it, set aside two of the mashed up bananas and add
them in at the last moment, barely stirring them in.
Using a little
butter, grease a
loaf of bread sized baking tin and then pour in the batter.
Bake
for 1 hour at 350 by which time the bread should have turned golden
brown.
Coconut Pudding
What you need
- I can of
sweetened condensed milk
- 1 can of
coconut milk
- 2 cans of
regular milk
- 3
teaspoons of cornstarch
Method
Mix the cornstarch
with a little
of the milk until all the lumps are dissolved. Next, add all
the
ingredients to a saucepan and gentle boil over medium heat, stirring
constantly until the mixture thickens. You can either serve
custard hot or chilled.
This is a picture of Joey (the recipe's creator) with my great Laura
top
Banana
Puddin’ (puddin de banano)
Recipe from Irma Bernard de Binns
and Martin James Binns
While
the banana cake (which you will read about shortly) is really good and
distinctive in its own right, in the end it is cake and similar to
other cakes you have had before. The banana
puddin’, on the other
hand, stands out as something different. It is a thick, heavy
slab of
banana mush and until I learnt the recipe I had no idea what was in it
(except for the fact in had banana in it of course). Eat two
slices of
banana cake before your dinner and not only are you likely to no longer
have any room for dinner, you are also like to feel full until the next
day. A slice of banana puddin on Bocas Island will set you
back 20
cents. All I can say is that I ate way too many slices of
banana
pudding!
This recipe will make 2 large trays of puddin (enough to kill a large
ox, if eaten all at once)
What you need
- 9 lbs of
very ripe bananas
- 1
½ bars of margarine or butter (a bar is about 120grams)
- Milk of 2
coconuts (add 2 litres of water to the grated flesh of the
coconuts to get the right amount of liquid for the recipe) or
3 cans of coconut cream and one can of water (this is my rough
estimate)
- 4 large
serving spoons of vanilla essence or extract (Irma and Martin
use nasty imitation vanilla essence and the puddin still
tastes
great).
- 4 lbs of
flour
- 2 lbs of
finely ground sugar (white or raw should work fine)
- 2 ground
nutmegs
- 2 desert
spoons of ground cinnamon
Method
In
a large mixing bowl, blend together the bananas, butter, coconut milk
and vanilla. In a separate container, add all dry ingredients
(flour,
sugar, ground nutmegs and cinnamon) and mix well. Slowly add
the dry
ingredients to the wet ingredients (I would do it that way, rather than
the other way round) stirring all the time.
Vigorously
mix the puddin slurry and then spread the mixture into two large
greased baking trays. The height of the mixture in the trays
should be
about 3cms. Bake at 250 degree Celsius for roughly one hour
or until
the top of the puddin turns golden brown.
Martin
James Binns suggests that you could add raisins or grated coconut to
the recipe too. Martin James Morris (me!) suggests that a 3
healthy
desert spoons of roughly ground cardamom would also be a winner.
Note: a yucca puddin can be made quite easy with this very similar
recipe.
- 10 lbs of
raw, grated yucca (peal the yucca first).
- Coconut
milk of 3 coconuts (make it with 3 liters of water)
- 1 bar of
margarine (roughly 125grams)
- 6 ounces
of fresh grated ginger
- 1
½ lbs of flour
- 5 lbs of
sugar
- 2 ground
nutmegs (this quantity is a guess)
- 2 desert
spoons of ground cinnamon (this quantity is a guess)
Bake at 250 degree
Celsius for 1½ hours.

Martin and Irma (color coordinated) making Banana Puddin
top
Home-style
Banana Cake (Dulce de Banano)
Recipe from Irma Bernard
de Binns and Martin James Binns
This
Banana Cake tastes easily as good as it looks. It is
similar to other banana cakes you have probably tried however the
coconut milk, spices, rum and dried fruit give it a special Caribbean
flavor. Best eaten while listening to reggae music.
What you need
- 1/2 lb of
dried mixed fruit (the Christmas cake variety)
- 4 - 6
ounces of liquor (whisky or rum). This acts as a preservative and
will keep the cake fresh for about 3
days in a hot
climate without refrigeration.
- 4 large
serving spoons of vanilla essence/extract (Irma and Martin use
nasty imitation essence and it works fine)
- 7 lbs of
peeled very ripe bananas
- 1 lb (453
grams) of butter
- Coconut
milk of 4 medium sized coconuts. Add 1½ to 2 liters of water
to
the grated coconut. (see the recipe for ‘Rice and
Bins’ to
find out how to make fresh coconut milk) or 4 cans of unsweetened
coconut cream.
- 6 lbs of
flour
- 4 lbs of
sugar
- 4
nutmegs, finely grated.
- 4 ounces
(1 ounce = 28grams) of Bicarb of Soda (Irma says this helps
retain the flavor of the bananas and stops the ‘acid in the
stomach’ feeling that some people get from eating coconut
milk combined with bananas)
- 6 ounces
of baking powder
- 2 ounces
of ground cinnamon
- 1
tablespoon of salt (Actually I can't read my writing. It may actually
be 1 teaspoon! I suggest being conservative and going for
a teaspoon first and then adding more if necessary!)
- 1 cup of
grated (or desiccated coconut). If you make fresh coconut
milk, you can use the left over gratings.
Method
First
blend together the mixed fruit, liquor and vanilla and set it aside.
Next, blend together the bananas, coconut milk and butter (either use a
Barmix or do it in batches in a food processor or blender). Now, in a
separate bowl, mix all the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, nutmeg,
bicarb, baking powder, cinnamon and salt) and then slowly add it to the
banana slurry, stirring all the time. Add in the mixed fruit mixture
and the grated coconut and mix well until the mixture takes on the
consistency of thick batter or double cream (if you are doing this by
hand using a wooden spoon it may take about 10 minutes to reach this
consistency, less if you use an electric mixer).
Now
grease enough baking trays for all the mixture and fill the trays to a
height of 3cms. Note: when the mixture is cooked it will double in
size. Bake for about 1½ hours at 220 degrees Celsius.
Guisadas
Recipe from Mayela of Bocas del Toro
Guisadas,
a traditional sweet on Bocas Island, are scrumptous little pastry tarts
that are filled with a yummy spiced coconut mush. I was
introduced to
guisadas at Don Chicos restaurant in Bocas Town, Panama. This
recipe
comes from Mayelas, a long standing guisada maker on Bocas
Island.
Mayelas’ guisadas look easy to make but my guess is that they
will be
even easier to eat! The recipe looks quite big so you may
wish to half
it or quarter it.
What
you need
The
base
- 2lbs of
flour
- 1 bar
(118grams) of butter or margarine
- 1
teaspoon of salt (or less)
- 2
teaspoons of sugar
The topping
- 2
coconuts (grated)
- 3 blocks
of unrefined sugar (on brown sugar). I estimate a block to be
equivalent to a rounded large serving spoon.
- Vanilla
essence or extract
- Cinnamon
- Clove
Method
The
base
Combine
all the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the butter (or
margarine)
and crumble it through your fingers until a stiffish dough is formed
(you may need to add a little water as well). After kneading
the dough
a little, form it into little “cups” and place them
on a greased baking
tray. Mayela didn’t explain much about how to bake
the cups other than
to say that they are ready when they turn golden. How long
this will
take and how hot the oven should be is thus a mystery. My
guess is 180
degrees Celsius for about 40 minutes but that is a pure guess.
The
topping
Melt
the sugar in a saucepan with a bit of water and then add the coconut
and spices. I don’t know how much cinnamon, clove
or vanilla to add
however this recipe is very similar to the one for “Dulce de
Coco”,
which appeared in an earlier letter of mine so you could use that
recipe as a guide. Cook the mixture until it thickens (about
30
minutes).
Spoon the topping on the cooked bases. Serve the Guisadas on
their own or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Johnnycakes
Recipe from Victor Jonah Eleutario
This
recipe comes from Victor Jonah Eleutario, better know as Jonas, who I
met one day while out walking in the island of Bocas del Toro which
forms part of an archipelago by the same name on Northern Caribbean
coast of Panama. Jonas was on his bike selling Johnnycakes,
which
is something he does each Wednesday and Friday to make his living (his
88 years of age but still not retired). Jonas is a real
character, especially in his baking outfit complete with a white
baker’s hat, who generously allowed me watch him make
Johnnycakes
in the kitchen of his run down house in the back streets of Bocas
Town. At first Jonas was suspicious that I was a spy from
another
bakery who had come to steal his Johnny Cake recipe but in the end
shared it with me anyway (and allowed me to make a small documentary).
Johnnycakes
are small coconut milk breads that are a specialty of the Caribbean
Africans and are made throughout the Caribbean.
Most of Caribbean
coast of Central America (including the islands that dot it) has small
settlements of ex African slaves who were brought to the region by
British Colonials and then migrated along the coast in small fishing
boats. Before this time there were no coconut trees along
this
coastline coast. Coconuts (and bread fruit, mangos and other
plants)
were brought with the Africans who used them, along wish fish and rice,
as a central part of their diet.
Jonas the "Johnnycake Man"
I
asked Jonas why Johnnycakes are called
“Johnnycakes” and he
told me that they started out being called “journey
cakes”
(as they were often taken on fishing journeys etc) and over time that
name changed to “Johnnycakes” (probably due to the
peculiar
Caribbean English accent which most Africans have).
Jonas suggested that
Johnnycakes were best eaten on their own or with a piece of fish or
cheese.
I
created this recipe as while watching Jonas in his kitchen and all the
proportions are estimates from what I observed. I
haven’t
tested the recipe yet but you can’t go to wrong with
bread.
It will make a LOT of Johnnycakes so you will probably want to divide
by about 20 so that you are using one pound of flour.
Ingredients
- 20 lbs of
flour
- 4
dessertspoons of salt
- 2
dessertspoons of baking powder
- 2
dessertspoons of dry yeast
- 2
dessertspoons of sugar
- 1 lb of
butter
- ¼
lb of vegetable shortening
- Coconut
milk made from 7
coconuts – let it sit until the cream floats on top of the
milk
and then separate off the cream and set it aside (I estimate this to be
about 7 to 10 cans of coconut cream).
Method
Step one, in a large bowl, mix the flour, salt, baking powder, yeast
and sugar. Next add the butter, vegetable shortening and
coconut
cream (or cans of coconut cream) and work it through the flour using
your fingers as if you were making a pastry crust.
Now,
while working the mixture with your hands or a wooden spoon, gradually
add the coconut milk (or water if you used cans) until a bread dough
like consistency is reached. Knead the dough for about 10
minutes
and then set it aside in a warm place to rise for about 30
minutes. Next divide the dough balls just a little smaller
than a
tennis ball, poke them with a fork and leave them to rest a further 15
minutes or so.
There are two ways that Jonas bakes his Johnnycakes. The
first
way is in a greased cast aluminum pot that has a few coals underneath
and a lot of coals heaped on top of the lid (using this method it takes
about 15 minutes for the Johnnycakes to cook). The second way
is
to arranged them on a greased baking tray and bake them in a regular
oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (this is a rough estimate as Jonas oven
did not have any indications of temperature on it) for about 3 hours,
or until they are golden (3 hours seems a very long time however that
how long they took. There is probably a way to make them cook
faster however by increasing the temperature of the oven –
just
make sure they don’t end up raw in the middle).
PS. This recipe could be used as a good base for experimentation (ie
substituting some vegetable shortening for butter or more coconut cream
or perhaps adding dried coconut flakes etc). If you make this recipe
please write to me. I would love to know how it turns out.
top
Francisco and Joska's
Pizza Sauce
Recipe from Francisco and Joska
Francisco and Joska's pizza sauce was an essential element of the pizza
night that I organised at Mondu Taitu on Bocas del Toro, Panama.
They are both from Italy so this recipe comes straight from
the
horse's mouth! Unfortunately Francisco and Joska both left
Mondu
before I could ask them for the recipe so I sent them an email and
below is their reply. By the way, you can keep up with their
travel adventures via their website.
Dear Martin!
Great to hear from you!
we've just been in your
blog and it's amazing!
You were asking about
the sauce recipe: actually we didn't have any: we
just created. Anyhow,
it's quite easy. Here the main ideas go:
PIZZA SAUCE
onion (very little)
3 kg tomatos (without
skin. Hint: in order to peel them better, put
them in boiling water
for a minute)
salt
extra vergin olive oil
(we know, it's very expensive, but good oil
definitely makes the
difference)
1 spoon of sugar
Cut the onion very
thinly and put it into hot oil. Leave for a few
minutes till it gets
brownish (not black!). The oil must not be too hot,
otherwise you'll burn
the onion.
Incorporate the
tomatoes cut in small pieces, sugar and salt and stir
them untill they become
sauce.
Taste it in order to
see if salt is ok.
that's it.. Hope you'll
try it again and succeed!
Josca and Francisco having fun