Bertha's Mussels
Baltimore Fells Point, MD
 Price:$$$ Decor: Bar and Casual Dining for Dates/Friends
 Summary: "Eat Bertha's Mussels"
(3.5 crabs out of 5)



Karen-OK, call me a sheltered geek from the 'burbs, but I always thought the
bumper stickers starkly stating "Eat Bertha's Mussels" were some sort of
strange message or code. Those who are of a more hip persuasion will, of
course, recognize this ad for the seemingly classic restaurant and bar in
Fell's Point. The intimate tables invited Paul and myself one night from
the street while we were going from bar bar futilely searching for a bit of
ambiance. Enter around the side and you find a dining room that could be
the mutant child of a college dorm room and a Colonial Williamsburg tavern:
the Christmas lights above the table suggest the free spirit of Fell's
Point, while the antique wood tables and etched drawings of Bertha herself
give you the feeling that you tread on historic ground.
We're going to have to give them kudos for a good bread policy--it was soft
and crusty, and constantly refilled. Of course, I am always wary of places
with a good bread policy, it makes me think they are tryingto compensate for
Portion Problems. If you are getting the namestake of the restaurant, however, you'll be glad for the bread since mussels are by nature bite-sized. They have many varieties of interesting mussels, including sour cream and also honey
mustard. We tried the garlic butter and capters, which came spilling over
the bowl in their big black shells. The flavor came froma little cup of
garlic butter with capers inside (unfortunately, often too far down to be of
use.) As with other kinds of shellfish, much of the greatness and the lure of
mussels seems to come from the process of eating them. What glorious fun to
pry apart a rough and common shell such as that you might see on the street,
and inside find a little bite of food! The shellwork and detaching the
mussels was both rewarding and tasty (well OK I'll be honest: what isn't
good when it's just been submerged in butter?)
The shrimp salad sandwich was a little more disappointing, if only just
because it lacked the smack of Old Bay seasoning and the creamy consistency
of mayo. Plus it was on wheat bread. I mean fess up here, except for those
starting with "garden" and "caesar", all foods ending in "salad" are just a
clever cover-up for eating lots of mayonnaise. (And usually, those first
two are for the dressing.) Nice attempt, but if you order it make sure you
get an extra cup of Old Bay. Our bill wasn't too hefty--well, after you take out my $4.50 cocktail. Both dishes were under ten dollars, which makes for a relative bargain on seafood. Of course next time, after my credit bill clears, we'll spring for some of the more lavish dishes they carry.

Paul-A fine review Karen, I really dont have anything to add. Only that if you (in the general sense not specific to Karen) dip crab in butter get out of my state (just kidding). But sheesh, nothing is more foo foo shee shee than dipping crab in butter. I'm not saying it doesnt taste good but it disrespect the working class nature of the food. Ok now that that little rant it out I'd like to say that I loved the atmosphere of the dining room there. Fells is clearly a world of extremes. Either you go eat at a bar or a fancey expensive place to get dinner. In general it has a much wider range and I think when it comes to food a much more interesting scene during lunch hours. Karen and I have gotten some great lunches in the area but trying to find a good place for dinner was a bit of a challange for us. We arent the hippest couple so some of bars seems a bit too shadey or crowded to sit down and have a relaxing meal where we could catch up on the day with each other. Fortunately for us the feel of Bertha's fit the bill, not too pricey not too shadey but just the right.

Reviewed-February 2, 2001


$$$$$-over 20 dollars
$$$$-15 to 20 dollars
$$$-11 to 15 dollars
$$-5 to 11 dollars
 $-Below 5