Taibai
Lexington Park, MD
 Price:$$ Decor: Casual
 Summary:fantastic spring rolls, just ok otherwise
(3 crabs out of 5)


Karen- Every now and then in human history poets, artists, theologians, and probably all of us have stopped in their lives and considered the vast cosmos, deciding that there is something more, a far-off ideal, an possibly-unattainable but yet ever-present truth. Such a moment descended upon me not long ago, in the powerful moment of biting into the rolled-up boiled spinach called an egg roll served at the BAT. It was not bad, it was certainly edible, but somewhere in the back of my mind I knew somewhere, somehow, far beyond the scope of St. Mary's, there was another kind of egg roll. For those of you who have searched in yourself and asked the same question, I have relief. You need quest no further than San Souci Plaza, where at Taibai you can find not only egg rolls, but spring rolls (my personal favorite) and all other kinds of Chinese concoctions that, while perhaps not imported directly from China, do at least restore one's faith in the existence of such things.
How did the experience of eating there measure up beyond the exhilaration of knowing there is indeed culinary life outside St. Mary's? With a Chinese restaurant, there are a few specific questions you can ask yourself. Number one first and foremost: were there crunchy noodles on the table, and in sufficient quantities, and was there dipping sauce that makes your heart beat faster before trying it? The answer to all three questions was a resounding yes, although you probably have to get someone in your group to order the soup in order to get them. No one should hesitate to do so, however, because as the well-contented Egg-drop soup orderers explained, such a soup can either be too yolky or too runny, and this fine balance would have satisfied even Goldilocks' fine palate. The wanton soup was something of another story-while it was saved by the lovely decorated bowl it was served in, the noodles were limp, and limp noodles never should be. The aforementioned egg rolls and spring rolls were quite satisfying: the spring rolls that I had were hot, just-spiced-enough, and textured in just the ways that suggest a well-chosen and diverse choice of vegetables within.
Of course it is all well and good to get the appetizers right, but what about the main dishes? And perhaps as importantly, what about the time in between? Much as they say that love and life can be defined by the spaces around the events, so is a restaurant experience a lot about waiting. And wait we did, for perhaps a bit too long, however this slightly slow service was made more pleasant by a nicely decorated, very typical-Chinese-restaurant atmosphere, and the obligatory astrology chart at nearly every place around the circular table. The most amazing part of the whole experience came when the dishes finally did arrive and we found that some people had ­ and this is no joke ­ exquisitely formed flowers made out of carrot on their plate! No one need fear for entertainment or conversation when there is a carrot flower to be played with.
As to the dishes themselves, responses were generally very good. One of our party, a self-professed Hunan Beef connoisseur, explained that that particular dish was the best he had ever had, and as I can attest to that attest, it was indeed flavorful. For all the sugar lovers out there, you will be pleased with the large fried shrimp which were distinctly sweet as well as with the soda, which was more sugary than average. People who aren't fans of sugar might want to stay with the beef, since the lemon chicken was also sweet. However, in my opinion, it was such a powerful eating experience that it shouldn't be missed. The first bite into the lemon chicken is the kind of taste that can hardly be done justice to, but is kind of like what you would imagine biting into a flower would be like if it were, well, chicken-flavored. The effect was an exquisitely delicate, melt-in-your-mouth kind of tender taste that disintegrates and dissipates upon hitting your tongue. A pretty presentation topped it off, with lemons and ever-so-sweet maraschino cherries arranged like eyeballs on top. The sauce that came with it was lemony and so-so, but seemed an unfit and somewhat unworthy companion for such chicken. The sweet and sour chicken was much the same, with great meat but a runny sauce.
The two questions to ask yourself at a the end of a meal at a Chinese restaurant came answered with: yes of course, they were hard, sweet and some fairly amusing especially with the 'in bed' suffix; and not too painful considering the big portionsabout ten dollars a person. Referring of course to the obligatory fortune cookies and the "bad news" which is the denoument of every restaurant experience. So for a sometimes-sugary and often excellent taste as well as circular tables and, most importantly, carrot flowers, check out Taibai in San Souci Plaza sometime soon, if only to remind yourself those tasty egg and spring rolls of your imagination still do exist.

Paul- Not much to add here. Generally I agree, but I think the their main dishes are average at best. Its not a bad place to stop for dinner but there are definately better places to go in the area

Reviewed- Winter 1999


$$$$$-over 20 dollars
$$$$-15 to 20 dollars
$$$-11 to 15 dollars
$$-5 to 11 dollars
 $-Below 5